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« 


BREAKFAST, 

DINNER,  AND  TEA: 


VIEWED 


CONTAINING  NUMEROUS  CURIOUS  DISHES  AND  FEASTS  OF  ALL  TIMES 

AND  ALL  COUNTRIES. 


BESIDES  THREE  HUNDRED  MODERN  RECEIPTS. 


Cookery  is  an  art 

Still  changing,  and  of  momentary  triumph. 

Know  on  thyself  thy  genius  must  depend. 

All  books  of  cookery,  all  helps  of  art 

Are  vain,  if  void  of  genius  thou  wouldst  cook. 

Athen^eus. 


NEW  YORK : 

D.  APPLETON  AND  COMPANY, 

346  &  348  BROADWAY. 

1  860. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1859,  by 
P.  APPLETON  &  CO., 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the 
Southern  Distriot  of  New  York. 


PREFACE. 

De.  Johnson  says  of  Mrs.  Carter  that  she  could  both 
translate  Epictetus,  and  make  a  pudding ;  and  write  a 
Greek  poem  as  well  as  embroider  a  handkerchief.  In 
our  own  day,  there  may  be  found  many  an  active,  orderly 
housekeeper,  who  is  also  an  intelligent,  well-informed, 
even  accomplished  woman.  For  the  entertainment  of  this 
class  of  persons,  the  present  work  has  been  compiled. 
While  it  will  be  found  of  great  practical  utility,  it 
aims  to  be  rather  more  than  a  mere  cook  book ;  since  it 
contains  much  curious  and  instructive  matter  in  relation 
to  the  gastronomic  habits  and  peculiarities  of  all  times 
and  all  countries. 

It  must  surely  be  a  matter  of  interest,  while  preparing 
dishes  to  gratify  the  palates  of  the  present  generation,  to 
notice  what  have  pleased  poets  and  philosophers,  and 
races  long  past  away,  as  well  as  to  remark  the  great 
diversity  of  tastes,  among  the  various  nations  now  existing 
on  the  earth. 

Tliis  work  contains  three  hundred  original  receipts  of 
a  practical  nature,  suited  to  the  every-day  wants  of  an 


IV 


rEEFACE. 


American  household.  These  receipts  have  been  collected 
from  experienced  housekeepers,  and  may  be  relied  upon. 
Partaking  thus  of  both  a  classical  and  practical  character, 
it  will  form  a  very  appropriate  and  acceptable  present  to 
a  young  housekeeper. 

As  poets,  though  often  a  half-starved  race,  have  yet 
like  other  mortals  had  their  favorite  dishes,  it  has  some¬ 
times  happened,  that  warmed  by  the  genial  influences  of 
a  plentiful  repast,  they  have  made  cookery  and  its  acces¬ 
sories  the  theme  for  their  muse.  And  since  a  good  cook 
in  preparing  an  entertainment  for  guests,  first  provides  the 
substantial,  solid  food,  with  side-dishes  to  tickle  the  palate, 
and  closes  with  the  dessert  which  is  to  give  a  charm  to 
the  whole, — so  we,  to  the  solid  facts  vouched  for  by 
undoubted  authority,  have  added  some  side-dishes  of 
imaginary  feasts,  and  embellished  all  with  a  dessert  of  rare 
and  peculiar  delights  from  the  gardens  of  the  Poets. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


BREAKFAST. 

PAGE 

Breakfast  Considered, . '6 

The  breakfast  hour— Tobias  Termer  on  breakfast — Izaak  Walton  on  the 
Angler’s  breakfast — Our  English  ancestors  at  breakfast — Duke  of  Xorthumber-  ' 
land,  and  Queen  Elizabeth  at  breakfast— Lord  Fairfax's  orders  respecting  this 
meal — Pepys  at  breakfast — The  poet  Bogers  and  the  breakfast  party — Miss 
Sedgwick,  X.  P.  Willis,  and  Mrs.  Stowe  on  the  same — Practice  of  Maria  Edge- 
worth — Breakfasts  in  Scotland  and  America— The  favorite  dishes  of  various 
nations  mentioned. 

Coffee,  Cocoa,  and  Chocolate, . 9 

Lines  from  Cowper — Introduction  of  coffee — Pope's  fondness  for  it — Chic¬ 
ory,  and  how  to  detect  it  in  coffee — The  preparation  of  coffee — Cafe  au  lait — 

Cafe  d  la  creme  frappe  de  glace — Dandelion  coffee — Cocoa— To  prepare  choco¬ 
late  after  the  English,  French,  and  German  modes— Francesco  Eedi’s  dislike  of 
coffee. 

Bread,  .  .  .  .  *  .  «  .  •  •  .  .19 

Buies  for  making  wheat  bread  and  yeast  cakes — Gallic  yeast — To  make  stale 
bread  fresh — Different  kinds  of  meal — Steamed  bread— To  make  Indian,  and 
rye  and  Indian  breads. — Ehode  Island  corn  bread — Potato  bread— Bice  bread — 

Apple  bread — Trial  by  ordeal — The  “  Flat  brod  ”  of  the  Xorwegians — Anecdote 
of  Charles  XII.  of  Sweden — The  bread-fruit  tree — Coronation  gifts  to  the  Em¬ 
perors  of  Bussia. 

Breakfast  Cakes, . 21 

Breakfast  corn  cake — Corn  bread — Corn  cakes — The  pancake  bell — To 
make  rice,  hominy,  Indian  or  buckwheat  griddle  cakes— Eye  and  Indian  grid¬ 
dle  cakes — Muffins — Missouri  corn  cake — Tortillas— Indian  corn  biscuit— John¬ 
ny-cake — Hoe-cake — Cakes  of  the  Arabs — Morning  biscuit— Buttered  toast— 

Milk  toast — “  Hot  cross-buns  ” — Oatmeal  cake — Anecdote  of  bannocks. 


VI  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Butter, . 27 

Orange  county  butter — Margarey  More  on  churning — Butter-making  charm 
— “  Buyd  ur" — To  preserve  buttor — To  restore  rancid  butter — Mode  of  pre¬ 
serving  it  fresh  in  India — Ghee— Clarified  butter  of  the  Arabs — The  use  of  forks 
—  Some  peculiarities  of  the  Guelphs  and  Ghibellines. 

Meats,  Fish,  and  Omelettes, . 32 

The  Beef-steak  Club — To  cook  beef-steak— Welsh  mode  of  serving  it — To 
make  sausages— English  mutton  sausages — Mutton  chop — Broiled  veal — Grid¬ 
irons — The  Escurial — Broiled  ham  and  eggs — The  Spanish  dish,  “  Grace  of 
God  ” — Broiled  pigeons — Veal  bewitched— Tripe— Pickled  goose — Meat  biscuit 
— Pemmican — Liver  cheese — Broiled  chickens — Broiled  fish — The  callipeva — 
Indian  mode  of  broiling  fish — Preserving  fish — Potted  shad — Pried,  broiled,  and 
pickled  oysters — Remark  on  frogs — To  cook  them— Queen  Elizabeth’s  brooch — 

To  cook  eels — Thomas  a  Becket’s  dish  of  eels — Lines  on  stewed  lampreys — 
Pope’s  fondness  for  them — Fried  fish — Peruvian  chantisa — To  detect  poor  eggs 
— ReceUe  de  la  Fondue — Omelette  or  French  egg-cake — Soyer’s  omelette — 
Colored  eggs — To  cook  an  ostrich  egg — Leigh  Hunt  on  breakfast. 

Call  to  Breakfast, . 43 

Mrs.  Sigourney’s  “  Breakfast,  come  to  breakfast  ” — Charles  Lamb  on  saying 
grace — Bishop  Hall’s  habit  in  regard  to  his  meals. 

Cooks  and  Cookery, . 45 

The  progress  of  the  culinary  art— Rebecca’s  skill — King  of  Bithynia’s  cook 
— Queen  of  Caria’s  present  to  Alexander — Sicilian  cooks — Athemeus  on  the 
chief  cook  at  Athens — Trials  of  Antony’s  and  Napoleon’s  cooks— The  suicide  of 
Vatel — Rewards  conferred  upon  cooks  by  various  monarchs — Strife  between  an 
English  and  French  cook — Writers  on  cookery — Careme,  tlio  famous  cook — 

Louis  Eustacke  Ude  on  cookery  as  a  science — The  principles  of  cooking — Ef¬ 
forts  of  Charles  the  Second  and  Prince  de  Condo  in  cooking — M.  Soyer. 

- •  e  • - 

DINNER. 

Dinner  Considered, . 61 

Ben  Jonson’s  lines  to  Penhurst — Dinner  in  general — Dinners  of  policy — 
Sayings  of  Lady  M.  W.  Montague  and  Lady  Hardwicke — Dr.  Johnson  upon  poor 
dinners — The  dinner -hour — Luncheon — Roman  and  English  dining-halls — Cis¬ 
terns  in  the  same — Dining  tables — King  Arthur's  “ round  table” — Japanese 
and  Chinese  tables,  and  Pliny’s  in  the  garden  of  his  villa— The  dinner-party — 
Selection  of  guests — Talkers — Boswell  and  Johnson  on  conversation  at  table — 
Caprices  of  guests — Well-trained  servants — Pepys  in  search  of  a  cook — Mrs. 

Stowe  on  the  exertions  of  American  women — Ease  and  calmness  in  the  host 
and  hostess — John  Hancock’s  coolness — Lady  Blessington's  powers  of  entor- 


CONTENTS.  Vli 


PAGE 

taining — Rules  for  courses  and  dishes— Spirit  of  hospitality  illustrated — Eve’s 
repast  to  the  Angel — Telemachus’ reception  of  Minerva— An  instance  of  Ara¬ 
bian  hospitality — Burleigh's  precepts  to  his  son — Pope  and  Matthew  Greene 
on  welcoming  a  guest — Vulgar  hospitality — Invitation  to  dinner  from  Thomas 
Moore  to  Lord  Lansdowne. 

Soups, . 83 

Making  of  soups — Nudels — Cooking  in  a  coach — A  saying  of  Beau  Brum- 
mel’s — Pea,  beef,  and  gumbo  soups — Drying  okra— Sydney  Smith  on  uertZ-soup 
— Chicken,  lamb,  and  oyster  soups — Soupe  d  la  Cussy — Turtle  and  mock-tur¬ 
tle  soups — The  turtle — Origin  of  marking  the  king’s  dishes  with  the  cook’s  name. 

Fish, . 90 

Izaak  Walton  and  Smellie  on  various  fish— Eeceipt  for  cooking  a  fish  in  the 
seventeenth  century — Walton’s  mode  of  dressing  trout  and  chub — A  herring- 
pie— Tradition  respecting  the  red  herring — To  boil  fish — Fish-sauces — Lobsters 
— Dr.  Paley — Scolloped  oysters— Philip  II.  of  Spain — Oyster-pies — Legend  re¬ 
specting  oyster-eating — Chowder — Caviar,  fish-maws,  botargo — “  Stappit- 
heads  ” — The  Apostle’s  fish — Piroga — The  sardine — Tamarind  fish — Anchovy 
— To  bake  fish — Cardinal  Fesch  and  the  turbots— Egyptian  abhorrence  of  fish — 
Poissardes. 

Meats, . 104 

Advice  to  a  cook — To  roast  or  bake  meats — Louis  XI.  and  the  turnspit — 

Eoast  beef — The  sirloin  and  baron  of  beef — Eoast  venison — A  singular  spit — 

Boast  mutton — Egyptian  custom — Kit-Kat  Club — Roast  veal — A  cook’s  tri¬ 
umph  over  the  difficulties  of  veal — Veal  cutlet — Commons — Eoast  pig — Charles 
Lamb  on  roast  pig — A  masterpiece  of  cookery — Eoast  pork — Baked  beans  and 
pork — Eoast  turkey — Saying  of  Sydney  Smith — Roast  chickens — Master  late 
at  dinner — Eoast  goose  after  both  the  German  and  English  modes — “  Pates  de 
foies  gras  ” — Eoast  ducks — Boiled  turkey — Boiled  chicken  with  rice — A  Span¬ 
ish  sauce — Eoast  partridges — Canadian  receipt  for  cooking  game — Snipe — 
Moore’s  dining-out — To  boil  meats — A  calf  s  head,  boiled — To  cure  beef— To 
boil  corned  beef— Dr.  Johnson’s  favorite  dishes — Boiled  ham  and  pork — Anec¬ 
dote  of  Charles  II. — Scotch  aversion  to  pork — Roman  skill  in  cooking  a  pig — 

To  pack  and  salt  pork — To  cure  hams — A  flitch  of  bacon — To  cure  mutton — 

Boiled  lamb  or  mutton — Dr.  Johnson’s  last  dinner  at  Mrs.  Thrale’s — To  cure 
beeves’  tongues — To  boil  the  same — To  pickle  sheep’s  tongues — Salt — The 
grand  Parmetier — A  Christmas  pie  in  1770 — Chicken  pie — Pigeon  or  veal 
pies — The  effect  of  pies  upon  courtiers — Live  birds  in  a  pie — A  dwarf  in  a  pie 
— An  artificial  hen — To  fricassee  chickens— Potted  pigeons — “  Un  roti  sans 
pareil  ” — Carving. 

Vegetables,  ...........  132 

Effect  of  cultivation — The  Irish  potato — Potatoes  “  with  the  bone  in  ” — The 
sweet  potato — Indian  corn  ;  to  dry  for  winter  use — Succotash — Green  corn 

|1  — 


viii  CONTENTS. 


TAGE 

cakes,  oysters,  and  dumplings — Anecdote  of  the  Khan  of  Tartary — Turnips, 
squashes,  and  onions — The  latter  among  the  ancients — Sancho  Panza's  prefer¬ 
ences — Artichokes — Asparagus ;  M.  Hue’s  substitute  for  it — The  cabbage  and 
the  cabbage-palm — Cauliflower,  kale,  and  kohl-rabis —  Vin-aigre — Parsnips, 
dandelions,  spinach,  peas  and  beans — Fried  cucumbers — Fried  oyster-plant — 

Salsify  toast — To  keep  celery  through  the  winter — Tomato  sauce,  and  toast, 
and  to  prepare  tomato  for  winter  use — Egg-plant,  green  melons  cooked  to  re 
semble  it — Mushrooms — Macaroni  and  rico. 

Salads  and  Pickles, . 145 

A  Roman  peasant’s  salad — Sydney  Smith's  receipt  for  dressing  salads — 

“  Moult  me  tarde  ” — Spanish  salad — Dressed  lettuce — Mustard  and  cress— Salad 
sauce — Chicken  and  lobster  salads — Remarks  upon  pickles — To  pickle  peaches, 
pears,  apples,  cherries,  plums,  cucumbers,  beets,  cauliflowers,  cabbage,  nastur¬ 
tiums,  walnuts,  butternuts,  onions,  eggs,  and  tomatoes — Pepper — Mangoes — 
Higdom — The  clove-tree. 

Drinks, . 155 

Francesco  Eedi  on  wine — Greek  poet  on  drinking  the  same — To  make  cur¬ 
rant,  gooseberry,  elderberry,  parsnip,  and  raspberry  wines — Cleopatra’s  costly 
drink — Fountains  of  wine — Whortleberry  wine — “  Kirch-wasser  ”  and  “  mares- 
chino  ” — The  two  secrets — To  make-  metheglin  and  ginger-beer — Effect  of  cli¬ 
mate  on  drinks — To  make  raspberry  vinegar,  imperial,  sherbet,  lemon  water, 
and  egg-flip  or  posset — The  thirst  of  Tantalus — Old  English  beverages,  as  “  but¬ 
tered  ale,”  “bristol  milk,”  “  la  mas  ub  hal,"  orange  and  wormwood  wines, 
ipocras,  and  sack-posset — Drinking  cups — Toasts  with  Celtic  honors — The 
loving  cup. 

Dessert, . 166 

Desserts  of  the  olden  time — “  Subtleties  ”> — Destruction  of  Troy — The 
“march-pane” — Quaking  custard — Pyramids — Duchess  of  Kingston’s  dessert 
— Designs  in  use  in  1745 — Chasse  at  Herenhausen — Devices  in  pastry  in  1787 — 
Confectionery  at  Queen  Charlotte’s  table. 

Pies, . 170 

To  make  puff-paste — Mince  pie,  an  ode  to  the  same — Apple  pie,  Lord  Dud¬ 
ley  respecting  it — Puffets — Menzikoff  a  pastry-cook — To  make  the  following 
pies,  viz  :  mock  apple,  jelly,  custard,  farina,  cocoanut,  pumpkin,  (fresh,  dried, 
or  grated),  peach,  cherry,  plum,  berry,  squash,  rhubarb,  and  currant — 
Southey's  ode  to  gooseberry  pie. 

Puddings, . 179 

Eules  for  boiling  puddings — To  make  plum-pudding — French  prejudice 
against  it — English  gooseberry,  raspberry,  and  roly-poly  puddings — King 
Arthur’s  pudding — Apple  dumplings — Remark  on  Mrs.  Carter — Boiled  potato, 
and  corn  puddings — Rich  boiled  Indian  pudding — Date  or  prune  ditto — The 
date  and  sago-palms — Tapioca  and  sago  puddings  (with  and  without  apples) 


CONTENTS.  ix 


PAGE 

— Whence  tapioca  is  obtained — Baked  apple,  corn  starch,  gypsy’s  hatter,  co- 
coanut,  family,  corn-meal,  and  cracked-wheat  puddings — Rice,  almond,  hom¬ 
iny,  potato,  pumpkin,  orange,  bread  and  butter,  jelly,  and  applo  ditto — Lady 
Bustle’s  orange  pudding — Apple  dessert-cako — To  make  the  following  croams  : 
snow  rice,  Isabella,  Bohemian,  white,  almond,  lemon,  and  ice — Curds  and 
cream — Flummery — Cocoanut  for  dessert — Charlotte  de  Russo — Spanish  Char¬ 
lotte — Custard — Potato  blanc-mange — A  southern  trifle — Lemon  kisses — A 
delicate  dessert — Thomson  on  the  fruits. 

Jellies,  . . 197 

To  make  apple,  crab-apple,  grape,  cranberry,  red  currant,  and  four-fruit 
jellies — The  grape  and  pomegranate — To  save  currant  juice  when,  from  mis¬ 
management,  it  will  not  form  a  jelly — Green  and  black  currant  jellies — Cur¬ 
rants,  why  so  called — To  make  also  calf’s  foot,  chicken,  wine,  and  dried-apple 
jellies — Apple  Florentine— Macaroons — Comfit-boxes — Address  to  guests. 

Table  Habits  and  Peculiar  Dishes  of  various  Nations,  .  .  .  204 

Old  English  Living. — Christmas  song — Thomson  on  dinner — Profusion 
at  old  English  tables — The  crane  and  peacock  much  honored — Peacock  “  en- 
kakyll  ” — Dishes  for  certain  days — A  carol  to  the  Boar's  head — A  game  pie  in 
1394 — Private  dinner  in  Shakspeare’s  day — The  carte  or  bill  of  fare — Lord 
Fairfax’s  orders  to  his  servants  respecting  dinner — Pepys’  dinners. 

Scottish  HospitdUty. — Customs  in  some  of  the  families — Profusion  at  fu¬ 
neral  feasts — Parliamentary  restrictions  on  hospitality — Customs  at  Highland 
entertainments — Lord  Lovat — Diet  of  the  Highlanders  of  the  present  day — 
National  dishes — Burns’  poem  to  the  “  haggis  ” — Receipt  for  making  a  haggis, 
by  Mrs.  Grant,  of  Laggan. 

Irish  Customs.— Four  kings  of  Ireland  at  dinner — Coshering  feasts  of  the 
old  Irish. 

French  Entertainment. — Ariamnes’  entertainment  to  his  countrymen — 

Gallic  cookery — Progress  in  the  arts  of  the  cuisine — Introduction  of  new  arti¬ 
cles  of  food;  the  frog,  the  snail,  and  horse-flesh — Satirical  review  of  the  names 
of  French  dishes. 

Table  Habits  of  the  Germans. — Family  dinners  in  Hamburg  and  Berlin 
— Old  German  hospitality. 

Spanish  Hospitality  of  the  present  day.  — Evening  receptions — To  make 
olla  podrida. 

Old  Roman  Customs. — Courses  at  dinner,  and  favorite  dishes — Diomed’s 
banquet. 

Articles  of  food  in  Italy. 

Grecian  Customs. — Athenian  practices — Dinner  illustrated — Athenian 
dishes — Public  meals  of  Sparta. 

Russian  Dinners. — Custom  at  a  dinner-party — Dinner  at  a  restaurant  in 
Moscow — Peculiar  dishes — The  Russian  cook. 

Swedish  Dishes. 

Dinners  in  Turkey. 

Dinners  among  the  Circassians. 

Shah  of  Persia  at  Dinner. 


X  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Arab  Dishes. 

Customs  in  India. — The  habits  of  the  Parsees  during  their  repasts — A 
Ilindoo  meal. 

Siamese  Customs. 

A  Burmese  Dainty. 

Chinese  Dishes. — Chou-chou,  baliehung,  birds’  nests,  and  beche-de-mer. 

Japanese  Customs  and  Dishes. — Serving  a  repast,  tables  and  dishes. 

Abyssinian  Dinner. 

Native  Cooking  and  Eating  in  the  Pacific  Islands. 

Food  of  the  Arctic  Regions. 

Savage  Food. 

Dinners  and  Feasts  of  various  Persons, . 266 

Coronation  feast  for  the  queen  of  Henry  Y. — Banquet  in  Henry  YII.’s 
reign  at  the  enthronization  of  Archbishop  Warliam — Coronation  dinner  for 
Anne  (Boleyn)  queen  of  Henry  YIII. — Montezuma  at  table — The  Earl  of 
Athol’s  entertainment  to  James  V. — Queen  Elizabeth's  dinners,  with  the 
feast  of  the  Earl  of  Leicester  at  Utrecht — Dinner  of  James  I.  to  a  Spanish 
ambassador— Louis  XIV.’s  meals  and  feasts  at  Versailles — A  dinner  at  Mo- 
liere’s— Coronation  dinner  of  Charles  II.— Sir  Richard  Steele  at  dinner— Din¬ 
ner  at  Mr.  Sheridan’s  on  “swilled  mutton  ” — Madame  De  Stacil  and  her  din¬ 
ners — Napoleon  I.  and  Josephine  at  dinner — Dinners  of  M.  De  Talleyrand — 
General  Washington’s  dinners  in  camp  ;  also  his  style  of  living  during  his  pres¬ 
idency — General  Marion’s  entertainment  to  a  British  officer — Rev.  Sydney 
Smith’s  account  of  a  certain  dinner — General  Urquiza's  hospitality  to  Ameri¬ 
can  officers  and  gentlemen — Sancho  Panzaat  Camacho’s  wedding-feast — Rejoic¬ 
ings  upon  the  New  Year’s  coming  of  age. 


TEA. 

Tf.a  Considered, . 299 

Lines  from  Cowper — The  Voide  of  nenry  VII. ’s  time — Tea  in  fashionable 
life,  and  as  a  meal — Dutch  country  tea-table — Evening  receptions — The  intro¬ 
duction  of  tea  into  England  and  America — Different  varieties — Dr.  Kano  and 
Dr.  Johnson  on  its  virtues — Modes  of  steeping  it — Practice  in  Germany — Syd¬ 
ney  Smith  and  the  tea-kettle. 

Tea-Biscuits  and  Cakes, . 303 

Soda  biscuits,  strawberry  biscuit,  patent  tea-cakes,  rye  drop  cakes,  and 
rusk — The  following  cakes :  sponge,  pound,  rich  fruit,  silver,  golden,  federal, 
lemon,  delicate,  mountain,  cocoanut,  cup,  jelly,  cake  without  eggs,  plain,  nelly, 
and  raisin ;  pound,  almond,  drop,  loaf,  tea,  ginger,  black,  soda,  and  cream — 

Motto  at  Newstead  Abbey — Sally  Lunn  and  Siblett  cakes — Mrs.  Grundy’s  cake 
— The  nutmeg — Vanity  balls — Cookies — Ginger-nuts — Tea  ginger-cakes — Mo¬ 
lasses  cookies — Krullers — Olecokes. 


CONTENTS.  xi 


PAGE 

Preserves, . 314 

Lines  from  Tusser — Directions  for  the  use  of  air-tight  eans  in  preserving 
fruits — To  preserve  strawberries — Saying  of  Izaak  Walton  respecting  them — 

Dr.  Johnson’s  partiality  for  berries — To  preserve  cherries,  gooseberries,  grapes, 
raspberries,  blackberries,  peaches,  pears,  quinces,  currants,  and  pine-apples — 

The  pine-apple — To  preserve  citron  or  watermelon,  pumpkin,  oranges,  and 
plums — Stewed  prunes,  baked  quinces,  and  boiled  pears — To  bottle  gooseber¬ 
ries  and  currants — Whence  various  fruits  are  obtained — Fruits  in  Ilenry 
VIII.'s  time — Thomson  on  various  fruits. 

Suppers  and  Fetes, . 322 

“  Triall  of  Feasting  ” — Suppers  of  Alexander  the  Great — Anecdote  of  Ju¬ 
lius  Ca?sar — Rival  feasts  of  Antony  and  Cleopatra — Suppers  of  the  Count  de 
Foix  in  1350 — The  ante-suppers  of  the  Earl  of  Carlisle — Entertainments  in 
Charles  I.’s  reign — A  May-day  collation  to  Christina,  queen  of  Sweden — 

Dean  Swift’s  reckoning  with  his  guests — A  fCste  given  by  tho  Prince  Regent 
at  Carleton  House — A  surprise-banquet  to  La  Fayette — Sydney  Smith’s  sup¬ 
pers — Evening  meal  of  Cedric  the  Saxon — The  feast  of  the  Bermccide. 

Conclusion, . 337 


PART  1. 


BREAKFAST. 


CONTENTS. 


1.  Breakfast  Considered. 

2.  Coffee— Cocoa — Chocolate. 

3.  Breads. 

4.  Breakfast-Cakes. 


5.  Butter. 

6.  Meats — Fish — Omelettes. 

7.  Call  to  Breakfast. 

8.  Cooks  and  Cookery. 


BREAKFAST. 

When  dressed,  I  to  the  yard  repair, 

And  breakfast  on  the  pure,  fresh  air ; 

But  though  this  choice  Castilian  cheer 
Keep  both  the  head  and  stomach  clear, 

For  reasons  strong  enough  for  me, 

I  mend  the  meal  with  toast  and  tea.” 

When  the  refined  poet,  Montgomery,  thus  admits  the  necessity 
of  refreshing  himself  upon  something  more  hearty  than  the  pure, 
fresh  air,  it  is  not  strange  that  beings  of  less  poetic  mould  should 
find  a  substantial  meal  in  the  early  morning  a  matter  of  essential 
importance.  The  hour  for  taking  this  first  meal  varies  even 
among  people  of  the  same  nation,  as  much  as  do  their  circum¬ 
stances  and  tastes.  The  industrious,  hardy  farmer  who  rises  be¬ 
fore  the  sun,  having  performed  his  wonted  tasks,  sits  down  to  his 
breakfast  at  five  o’clock  with  a  strong  appetite.  The  enterprising 
citizen,  not  called  forth  quite  as  early  by  his  business,  yet  still 
desirous  of  making  each  day  as  profitable  as  possible,  breaks  his 
fast  at  six  or  seven.  The  professional  man  whose  hours  of  labour 
may  have  encroached  on  those  devoted  to  sleep,  rises  later  in  the 
day ;  and  eight,  or  it  may  be  nine  o’clock,  will  find  him  with 
weary  head,  and  but  little  appetite,  sipping  his  cup  of  coffee. 
Ten  is  considered  an  early  hour  by  the  fashionable  lady  ;  the  lux- 


4  BREAKFAST. 

urious  nobleman  of  London  is  scarcely  prepared  for  it  by  mid- 
day  ; — and  the  shadows  of  evening  may  begin  to  fall  before  his 
first  meal  is  partaken  of  by  the  effeminate  epicure  of  Paris. 

Dr.  Tobias  Venner,  of  Shakspeare’s  time,  in  writing  upon 
diet,  recommends  to  students  and  persons  of  sedentary  life  that 
they  omit  breakfast  entirely,  and  take  but  two  meals  in  the  day. 
But  he  says  of  those  who  use  much  exercise  that  they  should  not 
altogether  go  fasting  till  dinner,  but  break  their  fast,  with  this 
threefold  caution — that  they  find  their  stomachs  to  be  clean  and 
empty, — that  the  breakfast  be  slender, — of  meats  of  light  di¬ 
gestion,  and  that  it  be  taken  four  hours  before  dinner.  He  adds, 
“  If  any  man  desire  a  light,  nourishing,  and  comfortable  breakfast^ 
I  know  none  better  than  a  couple  of  poached  eggs ,  seasoned  with 
a  little  sauce,  and  a  few  corns  of  pepper,  eating  therewithal  a 
little  bread  and  butter ,  and  drinking  after,  a  good  draught  of  cla¬ 
ret  wine”  The  doctor  lived  before  the  days  of  tea  and  coffee. 

Isaac  Walton  pleasantly  says  :  “My  honest  scholar,  it  is  now 
past  five  of  the  clock ;  we  will  fish  until  nine,  and  then  go  to 
breakfast.  Go  you  to  yonder  sycamore  tree,  and  hide  your  bot¬ 
tle  of  drink  under  the  hollow  root  of  it ;  for  about  that  time, 
and  in  that  place,  we  will  make  a  brave  breakfast  with  a  piece 
of  powdered  beef ,  and  a  radish  or  two,  that  I  have  in  my  fish-bag. 
We  shall,  I  warrant  you,  make  a  good,  honest,  wholesome,  hun¬ 
gry  breakfast.  *  *  *  Now  let  us  say  grace  and  fall  to 

breakfast.  What  say  you,  scholar,  to  the  providence  of  an  old 
angler  1  Does  not  this  meat  taste  well  ?  and  was  not  this  place 
well  chosen  to  eat  it '?  for  this  sycamore  tree  will  shade  us  from 
the  sun’s  heat.”  Scholar  :  “  All  excellent  good,  and  my  stomach 
excellent  good  too.” 

But  little  mention  is  made  of  breakfast  in  ancient  history  ;  it 
being  a  simple  meal,  in  striking  contrast  to  the  luxurious  dinner. 
The  Greeks  ate  but  two  meals ;  the  first  at  mid-day,  the  second 
at  evening.  The  first  was  generally  composed  of  fruits  and  light 


BREAKFAST.  5 

wines  ;  the  heat  of  the  climate  rendering  more  hearty  food  dis¬ 
tasteful. 

Our  English  ancestors  in  the  13th  and  14th  centuries  had 
four  meals  in  a  day ;  breakfast  at  seven,  dinner  at  ten,  supper  at 
four,  and  livery  at  eight  or  nine ;  soon  after  which  they  went  to 
bed.  The  tradespeople  and  laboring  men  had  only  three  meals  : 
breakfast  at  eight,  dinner  at  twelve,  and  supper  at  six. 

As  a  specimen  of  the  family  breakfasts  in  Great  Britain  in  the 
lGth  century,  we  will  give  that  of  the  Duke  of  Northumberland. 
“  The  family  rose  at  six,  and  took  breakfast  at  seven.  My  Lord 
and  Lady  sat  down  to  a  repast  of  two  pieces  of  salted  fish ,  and 
half  a  dozen  of  red  herrings ,  with  four  fresh  ones,  or  a  dish  of 
sprats  and  a  quart  of  beer,  and  the  same  measure  of  wine.  This 
was  on  meagre  days.  At  other  seasons,  half  a  chine  of  mutton 
or  of  boiled  beef,  graced  the  board.  Capons  at  2d.  a  piece  and 
plovers  (at  Christmas)  were  deemed  too  good  for  any  digestion 
that  was  not  carried  on  in  a  noble  stomach.” 

“  Queen  Elizabeth’s  breakfast  usually  consisted  of  fine  wheaten 
loaves  and  cakes,  ale,  beer  and  wine,  pottage  made  with  mutton 
or  beef,  chines  of  beef,  (probably  cold,) — rabbits  and  butter.  In 
one  of  her  yirogrcsses  through  the  country,  three  oxen  and  one 
hundred  and  forty  geese  were  furnished  for  the  Sunday  morning’s 
breakfast  for  the  maiden  monarch  and  her  brilliant  retinue.” 

In  Lord  Fairfax’s  orders  to  the  servants  of  his  household,  he 
says  :  “  The  clerk  of  the  kitchen  must  appoynt  the  cooks  what 
must  be  for  breakfasts,  for  the  ladyes  in  their  chambers,  and 
likewise  for  the  gentlemen  in  the  hall  or  parlour,  which  must  be 
served  by  eight  of  the  clock  in  the  morninge  and  not  after.” 

Pepys,  of  Charles  II. ’s  reign,  having  company  to  breakfast, 
mentions :  “  I  had  for  them  a  barrel  of  oysters,  a  dish  of 
neat’s  tongues,  and  a  dish  of  anchovies ;  with  wine  of  all  sorts, 
and  ale.” 

The  poet  Rogers,  whose  hospitality  is  proverbial,  has  the 


6  BREAKFAST. 

credit  of  establishing  the  breakfast  party  as  a  link  in  London  so¬ 
ciety.  The  “mornings”  at  his  house  are  famous  among  the  lit¬ 
erati  of  England. 

Miss  Sedgwick  writes  of  the  English  breakfast  party ,  that  the 
hour  appointed  is  from  ten  to  eleven  o’clock.  “  The  number  of 
guests  is  never  allowed  to  exceed  twelve.  The  entertainment  is 
little  varied  from  our  eight  o’clock  breakfasts.  There  are  coffee, 
tea,  chocolate,  toast,  rolls,  grated  beef  and  eggs,  and  in  place  of 
our  solid  beef-steaks, — broiled  chickens,  reindeers’  tongues,  sweet¬ 
meats,  fruit  and  ices.  These  are  not  bad  substitutes  for  heavier 
viands,  and  for  our  variety  of  hot  cakes.  You  see  none  of  these 
unless  it  be  a  ‘  muffin.’  ” 

“  Breakfast  in  England,”  says  Willis,  “  is  a  confidential  and 
unceremonious  hour,  and  servants  are  generally  dispensed  with. 
The  coffee  and  tea  were  on  the  table,  with  toast,  muffins,  oat-cakes, 
marmalade,  jellies,  fish ;  on  the  side-board  stood  cold  meats  for 
those  who  liked  them,  and  they  were  expected  to  go  to  it  and 
help  themselves.  Nothing  could  be  more  easy,  unceremonious, 
and  affable  than  the  whole  tone  of  the  meal.  One  after  another 
rose  and  fell  into  groups  in  the  windows,  or  walked  up  and  down 
the  long  room.” 

Mrs.  LI.  B.  Stowe  in  mentioning  a  breakfast  at  which  she  was 
a  guest  in  England,  relates  some  conversation  with  Mr.  Macaulay 
upon  breakfast  parties.  She  says :  “  Looking  around  the  table, 
and  seeing  how  everybody  seemed  to  be  enjoying  themselves,  I 
said  to  Macaulay  that  these  breakfast  parties  were  a  novelty  to 
me ;  that  we  never  had  them  in  America,  but  that  I  thought  them 
the  most  delightful  form  of  social  life.  Lie  seized  upon  the  idea 
as  he  often  does,  and  turned  it  playfully  inside  out,  and  shook  it 
upon  all  sides,  just  as  one  might  play  with  the  lustres  of  a  chan¬ 
delier — to  see  them  glitter.  lie  expatiated  on  the  merits  of 
breakfast  parties  as  compared  with  all  other  parties.  He  said, 
‘  L  ou  invite  a  man  to  dinner  because  you  must  invite  him ;  be- 


BREAKFAST.  1 

cause  you  are  acquainted  with  his  grandfather,  or  it  is  proper  you 
should ;  but  you  invite  a  man  to  breakfast  because  you  want  to 
see  him.  You  may  be  sure  if  you  are  invited  to  breakfast,  there 
is  something  agreeable  about  you.’ — This  idea  struck  me  as  very 
sensible ;  and  we  all,  generally,  having  the  fact  before  our  eyes 
that  we  were  invited  to  breakfast,  approved  the  sentiment.” 

A  very  graceful  practice  at  breakfast,  and  one  especially 
agreeable  in  the  heat  of  a  summer  morning,  is  thus  described  by 
Mrs.  S.  C.  Hall  as  characteristic  of  Miss  Edgeworth :  “  I  thought 
myself  particularly  good  to  be  up  and  about  at  half-past  seven  in 
the  morning ;  but  early  as  it  was,  Miss  Edgeworth  had  preceded 
me,  and  a  table  heaped  with  early  roses,  upon  which  the  dew 
was  still  moist,  and  a  pair  of  gloves  too  small  for  any  hands  but 
hers,  told  who  was  the  early  florist.  There  was  a  rose  or  a  little 
bouquet,  of  her  arranging,  always  by  each  plate  on  the  breakfast 
table,  and  if  she  saw  my  bouquet  faded,  she  was  sure  to  tap  at  my 
door  with  a  fresh  one  before  dinner.  And  this  from  Maria 
Edgeworth — then  between  seventy  and  eighty — to  me !  These 
small  attentions  enter  the  heart  and  remain  there.” 

“  A  breakfast  in  Scotland  consists  chiefly  of  cold  grouse,  sal¬ 
mon,  cold  beef,  marmalade,  jellies,  honey,  five  kinds  of  bread, 
oatmeal  cakes,  coffee,  toast  and  tea.” 

Breakfast  in  America  is  peculiarly  a  family  meal.  At  this, 
more  than  any  other,  there  is  an  unrestrained  enjoyment  of  the 
home  circle.  The  breakfast  •party  is  almost  unknown  among 
us,  being  confined  to  a  very  limited  circle  of  the  fashionable  class ; 
not  that  we  are  less  socially  inclined  than  the  English,  but  that 
the  busy,  active  life  of  this  new  country  forbids  the  devoting  the 
early  hours  of  the  day  to  merely  social  enjoyment.  It  is  usually 
a  hearty  meal,  consisting  of  coffee,  meats,  fish,  toast,  a  variety 
of  hot  cakes,  and  in  the  Southern  States,  hominy  and  rice,  cooked 
in  various  ways,  and  several  kinds  of  hot  bread. 

Southey  alludes  to  the  different  preferences  of  various  nations 


8  BREAKFAST. 

in  regard  to  food  when  he  describes  a  man  of  universal  taste,  as 
one  who  would  have  eaten  “  sausages  for  breakfast  at  Norwich, 
sally  lunns  at  Bath,  sweet  butter  in  Cumberland,  orange  marma¬ 
lade  at  Edinburgh,  Findon  haddocks  at  Aberdeen,  and  drunk  punch 
with  beef-steaks  to  oblige  the  French  if  they  insisted  upon  obliging 
him  with  a  dejeuner  a  V Anglaise.  He  would  have  eaten  squab- 
pie  in  Devonshire,  sheep’s-head  with  the  hair  on  in  Scotland, 
and  potatoes  roasted  on  the  hearth  in  Ireland ;  frogs  with  the 
French,  pickled  herrings  with  the  Dutch,  sour-krout  with  the 
Germans ;  maccaroni  with  the  Italians,  aniseed  with  the  Spaniards, 
garlic  with  anybody  ;  horse-flesh  with  the  Tartars  ;  ass-flesli  with 
the  Persians  ;  dogs  with  the  North-Western  Indians,  curry  with 
the  Asiatic  East  Indians,  birds’  nests  with  the  Chinese,  mutton 
roasted  with  honey  with  the  Turks,  pismire  cakes  on  the  Orinoco, 
and  turtle  and  venison  wflth  the  Lord  Mayor  ;  and  the  turtle  and 
venison  he  would  have  preferred  to  all  the  other  dishes,  because 
his  taste,  though  catholic,  ivas  not  indiscriminating.” 


COFFEE. 


9 


COFFEE. 

“  The  morning  finds  the  self-sequestered  man 
Fresh  for  his  task,  intend  what  task  ho  may  ; 

Whether  inclement  seasons  recommend 
His  warm  hut  simple  home,  where  he  enjoys 
With  her  who  shares  his  pleasures  and  his  heart, 

Sweet  converse, — sipping  calm  tho  fragrant  drink 
Which  neatly  sho  prepares  ;  then  to  his  book 
Wrell  chosen,  and  not  sullenly  perused 
In  selfish  silenco,  but  imparted,  oft 
As  aught  occurs  that  she  may  smile  to  hear 
Or  turn  to  nourishment,  digested  well.” — Cowpee. 

“  Mocha's  berry,  from  Arabia,  pure, 

In  small,  fine,  china  cups,  came  in  at  last.” — Byron. 

Coffee  is  an  evergreen  shrub,  that  grows  to  the  height  of  six¬ 
teen  or  eighteen  feet,  the  berries  growing  in  clusters  like  cherries. 
About  the  time  America  was  discovered,  this  plant  was  first 
known  and  used.  It  grew  in  Arabia  and  Ethiopia.  It  is  said, 
that  the  superior  of  a  monastery  in  the  East,  having  heard  from 
the  shepherds,  that  their  flocks  were  more  lively  after  browsing 
upon  this  plant,  determined  to  try  its  effects,  and  made  his  monks 
drink  an  infusion  of  coffee,  to  prevent  their  sleeping  during  the 
nocturnal  services.  That  the  experiment  proved  successful,  may 
be  inferred  from  the  reputation  which  the  plant  soon  obtained  in 
the  adjacent  countries. 

Coffee  was  not  introduced  into  England  until  the  middle  of 
the  seventeenth  century.  Sir  Henry  Blount,  who  visited  Turkey 
in  1G34,  thus  speaks  of  it:  “The  Turks  have  a  drink  called 
Cav.phe ,  made  of  a  berry  as  big  as  a  small  bean,  dried  in  a  fur¬ 
nace,  and  beat  to  a  powder  of  a  sooty  color,  in  taste  a  little  bitter¬ 
ish,  that  they  seethe  and  drink  hot  as  may  be  endured ;  it  is  good 
at  all  hours  of  the  day,  but  especially  morning  and  evening,  when 


10  BREAKFAST. 

to  that  purpose,  they  entertain  themselves  two  or  three  hours  in 
Crawp/te-houses,  which,  in  Turkey,  abound  more  than  inns  and  ale¬ 
houses  with  us.  It  is  thought  to  be  the  old  black  broth  used  so 
much  by  the  Lacedemonians.  It  drieth  ill-humors  in  the  stomach, 
comforteth  the  brain,  never  causeth  drunkenness,  nor  any  other 
surfeits,  and  is  a  harmless  entertainment  of  good  fellowship.” 

An  English  merchant,  trading  in  Turkey,  in  1652,  brought 
home  with  him  to  England  a  Greek  servant,  who  knew  how  to 
roast  the  coffee  and  make  it,  and  opened  a  house  to  sell  it  pub¬ 
licly.  In  spite  of  the  many  prejudices  which  prevailed  for  the  first 
twenty  years  after  its  introduction,  the  coffee-houses  increased, 
and  became  universally  established.  They  were  the  common 
assemblies  of  all  classes  of  society.  The  mercantile  man,  the  man 
of  letters,  and  the  man  of  fashion,  had  their  appropriate  coffee¬ 
houses. 

In  1668,  a  Turkish  ambassador  at  Paris  made  the  beverage  of 
coffee  fashionable.  The  elegance  of  the  equipage,  recommended 
it  to  the  eye,  and  charmed  the  women ;  the  brilliant  porcelain 
cups  in  which  it  was  poured,  the  napkins  fringed  with  gold,  and  the 
Turkish  slaves,  on  their  knees  presenting  it  to  the  ladies  seated 
on  the  ground  on  cushions,  turned  the  heads  of  the  Parisian  dames. 

This  elegant  introduction,  made  the  exotic  beverage  a  subject 
of  conversation,  and  in  1672,  an  American  in  Paris  opened  a 
coffee-house.  Plis  example  was  quickly  followed,  beer  and  wine 
being  also  sold  at  these  places. 

The  mixture  of  indifferent  company  which  frequented  these 
coffee-houses,  led  a  Florentine,  noted  for  his  taste  in  this  depart¬ 
ment,  to  organize  a  superior  establishment,  and  to  introduce  ices ; 
he  embellished  his  apartments ;  and  here  literary  men,  artists,  and 
wits,  resorted  to  inhale  the  fresh  and  fragrant  steam.  This  and 
other  coffee-houses  held  a  distinguished  place  in  the  literary  his¬ 
tory  of  the  times. 

The  high  favor  with  which  coffee  came  at  length  to  be  re- 


COFFEE.  1 1 

garded  in  the  houses  of  the  great,  may  be  perceived  from  the 
fact  that  the  quantity  provided  for  the  daughters  of  Louis  XV. 
of  France,  is  said  to  have  cost  £3,000  sterling  a  year. 

Pope  was  extremely  fond  of  coffee,  often  calling  up  his 
servant  in  the  night  to  prepare  it  for  him.  It  was  the  custom  in 
his  day,  to  grind  and  prepare  it  upon  the  table,  of  which  practice 
he  gives  the  following  glowing  description : — 

“  For  lo !  the  board  with  cup  and  spoons  is  ci’owned, 

The  berries  crackle,  and  the  mill  turns  round ; 

On  shining  altars  of  Japan  they  raise 
The  silver  lamp ;  the  fiery  spirits  blaze. 

From  silver  spouts  the  grateful  liquors  glide, 

While  China’s  earth  receives  the  smoking  tide. 

At  once  they  gratify  their  sense  and  taste, 

And  frequent  cups  prolong  the  rich  repast. 

Straight  hover  round  the  fair  her  airy  band ; 

Some,  as  she  sipped,  the  fuming  liquor  fanned  ; 

Some  o’er  her  lap  their  careful  plumes  display’d, 

Trembling,  and  conscious  of  her  rich  brocade. 

Coffee  (which  makes  the  politician  wise, 

And  see  through  all  things  with  his  half-shut  eyes) 

Sent  up  in  vapors  to  the  baron’s  brain 
New  stratagems  the  radiant  lock  to  gain.” 

The  leaf  of  the  coffee-tree  is  used  in  the  Eastern  Archipelago, 
as  a  substitute  fbr  tea ;  the  leaves  are  roasted  over  a  clear  smoke¬ 
less  fire,  after  which  they  are  picked  from  the  twigs,  and  when 
immersed  in  boiling  water,  form  an  agreeable  beverage. 

There  are  many  substitutes  for  coffee — the  roasted  acorn,  the 
roasted  seeds  of  a  yellow  water  iris,  the  .chick  pea,  beans,  rye  and 
other  grains,  nuts,  almonds,  and  even  wheaten  bread ;  besides 
the  dried  and  roasted  roots  of  the  turnip,  carrot  and  dandelion. 

To  detect  Chicory  in  coffee,  put  the  powder  in  cold  water ; 
chicory  gives  a  colored  infusion  in  the  cold  water,  whereas  coffee 
does  not,  and  by  the  depth  of  the  color,  the  proportion  of  chicory 
may  be  guessed  at. 


COFFEE. 


13 

water,  allowing  three  pints  of  water  to  seven  spoonfuls  of  coffee. 
Let  it  boil  gently  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  set  it  where  it  will 
keep  hot,  (but  not  simmer,)  that  it  may  settle. 

M.  Soyer’s  mode  of  making  coffee,  is  an  original  one,  and  one 
worthy  of  note.  He  puts  the  dry  coffee  in  the  pot,  stirs  it  while 
heating,  then  pours  the  boiling  water  over  it,  which  is  a  quart 
to  one  ounce  of  coffee ,  and  sets  the  pot  where  it  will  keep  hot,  but 
not  boil.  It  stands  ten  minutes,  when  it  is  ready  for  drinking. 

Where  cream  cannot  be  had,  boiled  milk  serves  well  as  a 
substitute,  in  making  a  good  cup  of  coffee. 

Cafe  au  Iciit  is  made  by  nearly  filling  a  cup  with  boiled  milk, 
sweetening  to  the  taste,  and  flavoring  with  coffee. 

The  following  receipt  by  M.  Roques,  makes  a  delightful 
beverage  for  breakfast,  during  the  heat  of  the  summer : 

Cafe,  d  la  Crime  fraqypb  de  glace. — Make  an  infusion  of 
strong  Mocha  coffee,  put  it  in  a  china  bowl,  sweeten  it  agreeably 
to  your  taste,  and  add  to  it  an  equal  quantity  of  boiled  milk,  or 
a  third  of  rich  cream ;  surround  the  bowl  with  broken  ice,  and 
let  it  stand  till  icy  cold. 

In  Germany  and  France,  the  coffee  is  prepared  at  the  table  by 
the  ladies,  by  pouring  boiling  water  over  it,  and  letting  it  drain  a 
few  minutes  in  a  machine  for  the  purpose ;  care  being  taken  to 
drain  it  slowly  through  a  sieve  and  tissue  paper. 

Dandelion  Coffee. — This  coffee  is  of  excellent  flavor,  and 
without  any  of  the  deleterious  effects  of  the  Arabian  berry. 
When  drank  at  night,  it  produces  an  inclination  to  sleep,  the 
plant  being  of  a  soporific  nature.  To  prepare  it  for  drinking, 
wash  the  roots  carefully,  without  removing  the  brown  skin,  since 
that  contributes  much  to  the  aroma  which  so  strongly  resembles 
coffee.  Cut  the  roots  into  small  pieces,  and  roast  them  brown 
and  crisp.  Grind  and  prepare  it  as  you  would  coffee,  boiling  it 
a  few  minutes. 


14  BREAKFAST. 


COCOA. 

When  the  Spaniards  first  established  themselves  in  Mexico, 
they  found  a  beverage  in  common  use  among  the  inhabitants, 
which  was  prepared  from  the  seed  of  the  cacao.  They  brought 
the  seed  to  Europe  in  1520,  and  it  has  since  been  introduced 
more  or  less  extensively  into  every  civilized  country.  Linnaeus 
was  so  fond  of  it,  that  he  gave  to  the  tree,  the  generic  name  of 
“  Theobroma  ” — food  of  the  gods. 

There  is  also  the  Brazilian  cocoa ;  and  in  South  Carolina,  a 
kind  of  oily  under-ground  pea  is  roasted,  and  then  prepared  in 
the  same  way  as  chocolate.  In  Spain  the  root  of  the  earth 
chestnut  is  used  as  a  substitute  for  coffee  or  chocolate.  (Chem¬ 
istry  of  Common  Life.) 


CHOCOLATE. 

In  preparing  Chocolate  for  family  use,  cut  off  about  two  inches 
of  the  cake  to  one  quart  of  water  ;  stir  it  first  in  a  little  cold 
water,  till  it  is  soft,  then  pour  on  the  boiling  water.  After  it  has 
boiled  a  short  time,  add  a  pint  of  milk,  boil  up  and  serve. 
Sweeten  to  taste. 

The  French  rule  for  making  chocolate,  is  to  put  two  cups  of 
boiling  water  to  one  cup  of  chocolate ;  cook  it  in  a  silver  sauce¬ 
pan,  throw  the  chocolate  in  just  as  the  water  commences  to  boil ; 
let  it  reduce  a  part,  pour  it  into  the  cups  and  serve.  It  is  well 
to  stir  it  with  a  spoon  when  it  commences  to  boil.  To  make  it 


CHOCOLATE. 


15 

very  good,  add  two  cups  of  good  milk  after  it  has  boiled,  boil 
then  again  until  reduced  somewhat,  and  then  serve. 

A  German  receipt  for  preparing  chocolate  is  as  follows  :  To 
half  a  pound  of  chocolate,  allow  two  quarts  of  milk  and  the 
yelks  of  six  eggs.  The  chocolate  is  to  be  grated,  and  when  the 
milk  boils,  poured  into  it ;  boil  them  together  for  ten  minutes, 
then  stir  in  the  yelks  of  the  eggs,  and  dish  it. — Vollmer. 

An  Italian  poet  of  the  seventeenth  century,  Francisco  Redi, 
while  warmly  extolling  the  virtues  of  wine,  thus  expresses  his 
disgust  at  other  beverages  : — 

“  Talk  of  chocolate ! 

Talk  of  tea ! 

Medicines  made — ye  gods ! — as  they  are, 

Are  no  medicines  made  for  me. 

I  would  sooner  take  to  poison 
Than  a  single  cup  set  eyes  on 
Of  that  bitter  and  guilty  stuff  ye 
Talk  of  by  the  name  of  coffee. 

Let  the  Arabs  and  the  Turks 
Count  it  ’mongst  their  cruel  works ; 

Foe  of  mankind,  black  and  turbid, 

Let  the  throats  of  slaves  absorb  it ; 

Down  in  Tartarus, 

Down  in  Erebus ; 

’Twas  the  detestable  Fifty  invented  it ; 

The  Furies  then  took  it 
To  grind  and  to  cook  it, 

And  to  Proserpine  all  three  presented  it. 

If  the  Mussulman  in  Asia 
Doats  on  a  beverage  so  unseemly, 

I  differ  with  the  man  extremely.” 


16  BREAKFAST. 


BREAD. 

At  an  inn  in  Sweden,  there  is  the  following  inscription  on  the  wall, in  English:  “Ton 
will  find  at  Trollhathe,  excellent  bread,  meat,  and  wine,  provided  you  bring  them  icith 
you." 

To  make  the  Yeast. — Take  one  pint  of  potato  water  (that  is, 
the  water  in  which  potatoes  have  just  been  boiled),  while  it  is 
boiling  hot ,  thicken  it  with  flour,  and  when  nearly  cool,  add  a 
cup  of  yeast  or  a  softened  yeast  cake  ;  set  the  dish  containing  it 
in  a  warm  place,  and  it  will  be  nice  and  light  in  a  few  hours. 

The  Sponge. — If  you  wish  to  make  sponge  over  night,  keep 
your  tea-kettle  over  the  fire  until  bed-time.  Then  pour  from  it 
into  the  bread-pan,  three  quarts  of  milk-warm  water ;  throw  in 
one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  in  the  above  prepared  yeast. 
In  very  warm  weather,  do  not  use  all  the  yeast,  for  the  bread 
will  not  be  as  good.  Thicken  with  flour  until  it  is  a  soft  batter. 
If  the  weather  be  cool,  set  the  pan  containing  the  sponge  in  a 
warm  place,  covering  it  neatly  with  a  cloth  kept  for  that  purpose. 
In  the  morning,  if  the  sponge  be  sour,  dissolve  a  heaping  tea-spoon¬ 
ful  of  saleratus,  in  a  little  water,  and  stir  it  in  ;  and  if  it  still  seems 
sour,  add  more  according  to  your  judgment.  Work  in  flour,  and 
knead  the  dough  thoroughly ,  making  small  loaves.  The  pans 
should  be  well  buttered  and  warmed  when  used.  Place  the 
loaves  in  a  warm  place ,  and  keep  them  covered  with  a  warmed 
white  cloth.  If  properly  attended  to,  the  bread  will  be  light  in 
an  hour,  and  ready  for  the  oven,  which  should  be  thoroughly 
heated.  Be  careful  that  the  top  of  the  bread  do  not  scorch  and 
brown  too  soon,  for  this  will  prevent  its  rising  up  light,  which  it 
would  otherwise  do. 


BREAD.  1 7 

Mrs.  Partington  says,  “  she  has  always  noticed  that  whether 
flour  be  dear  or  cheap,  she  has  invariably  to  pay  the  same  money 
for  a  half  dollar’s  worth.” 

How  to  make  Yeast  Cakes. — Take  a  tea-spoonful  of  hops, 
and  pour  over  them  a  pint  of  boiling  water  ;  let  it  stand  a  few 
minutes,  then  strain  the  water  into  a  saucepan ;  heat  it  boiling 
hot,  and  stir  in  flour,  to  make  a  stiff  batter  ;  take  it  off  and  set  it 
away  to  cool ;  when  merely  lukewarm,  pour  into  it  a  tea-cup  of 
good  yeast,  or  a  yeast  cake  softened  in  water.  Set  it  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise,  in  two  or  three  hours  it  will  be  light ;  when  add  a 
tea-spoon  of  salt,  two  table-spoons  of  molasses  or  sugar,  and  a 
little  saleratus. 

Then  mix  in  Indian  meal  to  make  it  stiff  enough  to  roll  out  in 
a  round  long  roll.  Cut  it  in  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick, 
spread  meal  over  your  board,  and  lay  these  cakes  to  dry.  Turn 
them  frequently  while  drying,  and  if  possible  get  them  dried  in 
two  or  three  days,  or  they  may  become  sour.  They  do  well  to 
dry  in  the  air  but  not  in  the  sun.  Put  them  away  in  a  dry  place, 
and  when  you  use  one,  soak  it  in  milk-warm  water. 

“  When  the  Gallic  and  Celtiberian  brewers  steeped  their 
wheat  in  water,  and  mashed  it  for  their  drink,  they  took  the  froth 
that  collected  on  the  top,  and  used  it  instead  of  leaven,  which  was 
the  reason  that  their  bread  was  always  lighter  than  any  other.” — 
(Pliny.) 

To  make  Stale  Bread  fresh. — Put  a  stale  loaf  into  a  closely 
covered  tin,  expose  it  for  half  an  hour,  or  longer,  to  a  heat  not 
greater  than  that  of  boiling  wrater ;  then  remove  the  tin,  and  allow 
it  to  cool ;  the  loaf  will  thus  be  restored  to  the  appearance  and 
properties  of  new  bread. 

“No  sooner  said  than  done.” 
o 


1 8  BREAKFAST. 

Wheat  meal  is  more  nutritious  if  the  bran  be  not  sifted  from 
it,  and  it  is  much  easier  of  digestion. 

Barley  and  rye  differ  in  flavor  and  color  ft'om  wheat,  but  they 
resemble  it  in  composition  and  nutritive  quality.  They  do  not, 
however,  make  as  light  bread.  Rye  bread  retains  its  freshness 
and  moisture  for  a  longer  time  than  wheaten  bread. 

Steamed  Bread. — Much  less  fuel  is  required  in  cooking  bread 
by  steaming,  than  in  the  usual  mode  of  baking.  It  may  there¬ 
fore  bo  an  object  with  some  persons  to  know  how  it  is  done,  espe¬ 
cially  if  their  oven  obstinately  refuses  to  bake.  It  is  a  very  simple 
thing.  If  you  have  no  regular  steamer,  put  a  deep  tin  basin  upside 
down,  in  the  bottom  of  an  iron  kettle,  partly  filled  with  water,  and 
upon  this  set  the  basin  of  dough,  covering  the  kettle  tightly.  It  is 
necessary  your  bread  be  in  a  deep  tin  basin,  for  it  rises  very 
much,  and  will  otherwise  be  wasted  by  running  over. 

Rye  and  Indian  Bread. — To  two  quarts  of  Indian  meal,  add 
one  quart  of  unbolted  rye  flour,  half  a  tea-cup  of  molasses,  one 
table-spoon  of  salt,  and  saleratus.  Mix  with  warm  water  into  a 
soft  dough  ;  grease  an  iron  kettle  or  basin  and  put  the  mixture 
in  ;  when  it  is  light,  the  top  will  be  cracked  open.  It  rises  in  a 
short  time  if  kept  in  a  warm  place,  and  when  these  cracks  appear 
put  it  in  the  oven  and  bake  it  thoroughly.  If  you  use  a  brick 
oven,  (which  is  best  for  this  bread,)  leave  it  in  all  night. 

“  Always  taking  out  of  a  meal-tub,  and  never  putting  in , 
soon  brings  you  to  the  bottom.” 

Indian  Bread. — One  quart  of  sour  milk,  four  tea-cups  of  Indian 
meal,  two  tea-cups  of  rye  or  Graham  flour,  one  tea-spoon  of  salt, 
half  a  cup  of  molasses  ;  two  tea-spoons  saleratus  dissolved  in  the 
milk,  before  adding  to  the  whole.  Bake  two  and  a  half  hours  in 


BEEAD.  1 9 

a  two-quart  basin  in  a  moderate  oven.  After  it  is  baked,  let  it 
stand  half  an  hour  in  the  tin,  before  removing. 

Rhode  Island  Corn  Bread. — Scald  some  milk,  and  stir  Indian 
meal  into  it,  until  it  is  thick.  Salt  it,  and  add  a  little  molasses, 
according  to  your  taste.  Have  your  oven  hot ;  put  the  mixture 
in  a  deep  baking  dish,  and  let  it  remain  in  the  oven  all  night. 

Potato  Bread. — Pare  and  boil  some  potatoes ;  when  soft, 
mash  them  in  the  water  in  which  they  have  been  boiled  ;  sift  all 
through  a  colander,  and  when  cool,  add  flour  enough  to  make  a 
sponge ;  salt  it,  and  put  in  yeast.  Keep  this  sponge  in  a  warm 
place  till  it  is  light,  then  mix  more  flour  into  it,  and  make  it  into 
loaves.  Potato  bread  is  good,  and  does  not  dry  as  quickly  as 
that  made  entirely  of  wheat  flour ;  potato  is  not  suitable  for 
making  bread  unless  wheat  flour  is  combined  with  it. 

Rice  Bread. — ( Southern  Receipt.) — One  pint  of  rice  flour, 
half  a  pint  of  wheat  flour,  one  pint  of  sour  milk,  two  eggs,  one  tea¬ 
spoon  of  saleratus,  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg.  The  rice  must 
be  powdered  fine,  and  stirred  in,  after  the  other  ingredients  are 
partly  mixed.  Bake  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  whole  is 
stirred  together. 

In  France,  bread  is  sometimes  made  of  apples  mixed  with 
four.  They  put  one-third  of  boiled  apple-pulp  to  two-thirds  of 
wheat  flour,  and  ferment  it  with  yeast  for  twelve  hours.  This 
bread  is  said  to  be  light  and  very  palatable. 

“  About  the  tenth  century,  persons  accused  of  robbery  were 
put  to  trial  by  a  piece  of  barley  bread,  on  which  the  mass  had 
been  said ;  and  if  they  could  not  swallow  it,  they  were  declared 
guilty.  Sometimes  a  slice  of  cheese  was  added  to  the  bread.  The 

i  ■— = 


20  BEEAKFAST. 

bread  was  to  be  of  unleavened  barley,  and  the  cheese  made  of 
Ewe’s  milk  in  the  month  of  May.” — D  Israeli. 

“  Oatmeal  is  extremely  nutritious,  excellent  for  dyspeptics, 
and  withal  is  the  cheapest  meal.  It  is  highly  esteemed  in  Scot¬ 
land,  as  an  agreeable  and  wholesome  food.  It  is  rich  in  gluten 
and  in  the  fatty  matters,  which  tend  to  make  it  eminently  nutri¬ 
tious.  The  “  Flat  Bread  ”  of  the  Norwegians,  is  a  cake  made 
of  water  and  either  rye  or  oatmeal  stirred  together,  well  kneaded 
and  baked  on  a  griddle. 

“  Better  is  oaten  bread  to-day ,  than  cakes  to-morrow .” 

A  soldier  once  ventured,  in  the  presence  of  the  whole  army, 
to  present  with  an  air  of  complaint,  to  Charles  XII.  of  Sweden,  a 
piece  of  bread  that  was  black  and  mouldy,  made  of  barley  and 
oats,  which  was  the  only  food  they  then  had,  and  of  which  they 
had  not  even  a  sufficiency.  The  king  received  the  bread,  and 
without  the  least  emotion  ate  every  morsel  of  it ;  then  coolly  said 
to  the  soldier,  “  It  is  not  good,  but  it  may  be  eaten  !  ” 

The  Bread  Fruit  Tree. — This  fruit  is  picked  while  the  rind  is 
green,  and  as  it  is  seldom  relished  raw,  it  is  then  peeled,  wrapped 
in  leaves,  and  baked  on  hot  stones.  The  pith  is  snow-white  and 
mealy  ;  it  tastes  like  wheaten  bread,  sometimes  rather  sweeter. 

An  ancient  custom  is  still  preserved  in  Russia,  at  the  time  of 
the  coronation  of  an  emperor,  for  each  province  to  send  to  him 
bread  and  salt  as  a  token  of  welcome.  But  the  loaf  is  carried 
“  upon  a  massive  salver  of  gold  and  silver,  of  the  rarest  work¬ 
manship,  and  the  salt  in  a  box  or  cup  of  the  same  material,  stud¬ 
ded  with  jewels.  These  coronation  gifts  received  by  Alexander, 
Nicholas,  and  the  present  Emperor,  are  kept  in  one  hall,  and 


BREAKFAST-CAKES.  21 

make  a  grand  display.  The  salvers  presented  to  the  two  former 
Emperors  rise  in  dazzling  pyramids  from  the  floor  nearly  to  the 
ceiling,  hut  they  are  far  outshone  by  those  of  Alexander  II.,  who 
received  just  as  much  as  his  father  and  uncle  together.  If  the 
wealth  lavished  upon  these  offerings  is  an  index  to  the  popular 
feeling,  it  is  a  happy  omen  for  his  reign.  The  taste,  richness  and 
variety  of  the  ornaments,  bestowed  upon  the  mighty  golden 
salvers  exceeds  anything  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw.  Their  value 
can  only  be  estimated  by  millions.  It  is  significant,  perhaps, 
that  the  largest  and  most  superb,  which  occupies  the  place  of 
honor,  in  the  center  of  the  glorious  pile,  is  the  offering  of  the  serfs 
of  the  Imperial  domains.” 


BREAKFAST  CAKES. 

“  But  I  ate  naught 
Till  I  that  lovely  child  of  Ceres  saw, 

A  large,  sweet,  round,  and  yellow  cake ;  how  then 
Could  I  from  such  a  dish,  my  friends,  abstain  ?  ” 

Breakfast  Corn  Cake  ;  excellent  and  easily  made. — One  pint 
of  buttermilk  or  sour  milk,  one  pint  of  Indian  meal,  one  egg,  one 
tea-spoon  of  saleratus,  one  tea-spoon  of  salt,  two  tea-spoons  of 
molasses  or  sugar.  Dissolve  the  saleratus  in  a  little  warm  water, 
and  stir  it  in  the  mixture  the  last  tiling  before  putting  it  into  the 
pan  to  bake.  With  a  quick  oven,  it  bakes  in  half  an  hour. 

Excellent  Corn  Bread. — Three  quarts  of  sour  milk,  seven 
eggs,  one  cup  of  butter  melted,  one  tea-spoon  of  saleratus.  Mix 
with  corn  meal  to  the  consistency  of  a  thick  batter,  and  bake 
with  a  brisk  heat. 


22  BBEAKFAST. 

Corn  Cakes. — Three  teacups  of  corn  meal,  one  tea-cup  of 
wheat  flour,  two  tea-cups  of  milk,  one  tea-cup  of  cream  or  a  little 
butter ;  one  egg,  one  tea-spoon  of  salt.  Bake  in  small  pans  with 
a  brisk  heat. 

Pancake  Bell. — It  was  a  custom  in  England,  from  time  im¬ 
memorial,  to  eat  pancakes  on  Shrove  Tuesday,  which  is  the 
seventh  Tuesday  before  Easter.  The  great  bell,  which  used  to 
be  rung  on  that  day  to  call  the  people  together  to  confess  their 
sins,  was  called  pancake-bell ,  a  name  which  it  still  retains  in  some 
places  where  the  custom  is  kept  up.  This  custom  is  alluded  to 
by  Shakspeare,  and  other  contemporary  writers.  Taylor,  in  his 
works  in  1630,  gives  the  following  account : — 

“  All  is  inquiet  upon  Shrove  Tuesday  morning.  By  the  time 
the  clock  strikes  eleven,  there  is  a  bell  rung  called  the  pancake- 
bell ,  the  sound  whereof  makes  thousands  of  people  distracted,  and 
forgetful  either  of  manners  or  humanities  ;  then  there  is  a  tiling 
called  wheaten  floure,  which  the  cookes  do  mingle  with  water, 
egges,  spice,  and  other  tragical,  magical  inchantments  ;  and  then 
they  put  it  by  little  and  little,  into  a  frying-pan  of  boiling  suet, 
where  it  makes  a  confused  dismal  hissing,  (like  the  Lernean 
snakes  in  the  reeds  of  Acheron,  Stix,  or  Phlegeton,)  until  at  last 
by  the  skill  of  the  cooke,  it  is  transformed  into  the  form  of  a 
flip-jack  cal’d  a  pancake,  which  ominous  incantation  the  ignorant 
people  doe  devour  very  greedily.” 

Rhode  Island  Pancakes. — To  one  pint  of  Indian  meal,  add 
one  pint  of  rye  flour,  two  table-spoons  of  molasses,  one  tea-spoon 
of  saleratus,  one  tea-spoon  of  salt,  three  eggs  well  beaten.  Stir 
with  these  ingredients  sufficient  new  milk  to  make  a  stiff  batter, 
and  fry  it  ten  minutes  in  lard,  as  you  would  dough-nuts. 

Another  rule  is  nearly  as  good  when  milk  and  eggs  are  scarce. 
Mix  well  one  quart  of  Indian  meal,  one  quart  of  rye  flour,  two 


ISKEAKEAST-CAKES.  23 

large  table-spoons  of  melted  shortening,  or  butter  ;  five  table¬ 
spoons  of  molasses,  one  table-spoon  of  salt,  one  small  tea-spoon 
of  saleratus,  one  quart  of  water.  Fry  it  as  above. 

Sour  Milk  Griddle  Cakes. — To  one  quart  of  thick  sour  milk, 
stir  in  wheat  flour  until  it  is  quite  stiff ;  add  a  little  salt.  When 
the  griddle  is  hot,  dissolve  one  tea-spoon  of  saleratus  in  a  little 
water,  stir  it  in  quickly,  and  bake. 

Waffles. — The  above  rule  makes  good  waffles. 

Rice  or  Hominy  Griddle  Cakes. — To  one  quart  of  sweet  milk, 
put  two  cups  of  boiled  rice  or  hominy,  two  eggs  beaten  a  little  ; 
throw  in  a  sprinkling  of  salt,  and  thicken  with  wheat  flour.  Half 
a  tea-spoon  of  soda,  dissolved.  If  the  rice  be  cold,  warm  the 
milk  and  rub  the  rice  into  it,  before  putting  the  flour  in. 

Indian  Pancakes. — One  quart  of  milk,  one  egg,  one  tea-spoon 
of  saleratus.  Stir  in  half  Indian  meal  and  half  wheat  flour,  until 
the  mixture  is  sufficiently  stiff  to  put  on  the  griddle. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — To  two  quarts  of  warm  milk  or  water, 
add  one  tea-cup  of  yeast  and  one  tea-spoon  of  salt.  Stir  in  the 
flour  until  it  is  a  thick  batter.  Set  it  to  rise  the  night  before  it 
is  wanted.  In  the  morning  if  the  batter  seems  sour,  dissolve  and 
stir  into  it  a  tea-spoon  of  saleratus.  When  cooking  your  cakes, 
it  is  usual  to  leave  half  a  pint  of  batter  in  the  jar  where  you  have 
prepared  it,  to  serve  as  yeast  for  another  mixture. 

Muffins. — One  quart  of  milk,  one  egg,  salt,  half  a  cup  of  yeast, 
table-spoon  of  melted  butter,  flour  to  make  a  thick  batter.  To 
be  made  late  in  the  evening,  and  stand  all  night  for  breakfast,  or 
if  you  wish  them  for  tea,  mix  them  at  noon,  and  keep  the  pan  in 


24  BREAKFAST. 

a  warm  place  and  it  will  rise  in  a  few  hours.  Heat  the  griddle, 
then  butter  it  and  the  muffin  rings  ;  put  the  latter  upon  the  grid¬ 
dle  and  pour  in  the  batter ;  turn  them  once  only. 

Soda  Muffins. — One  pint  of  water,  one  quart  of  flour,  half  a  tea¬ 
cup  of  butter,  two  small  spoons  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  small 
spoon  of  soda.  Bake  immediately  upon  a  hot  griddle,  or  set  your 

muffin  rings  in  a  pan,  and  bake  in  an  oven. 

» 

Missouri  Corn  Calces. — (  Without  eggs ,  milk ,  or  yeast.) — Sift 
three  pints  of  corn  meal,  add  one  tea-spoon  of  salt,  one  table¬ 
spoon  of  lard,  one  tea-spoon  of  dissolved  soda.  Make  it  into  a 
soft  dough  with  one  pint  of  cold  water,  then  thin  it  gradually  by 
adding  not  quite  one  and  a  half  pints  of  warm  water  ;  when  it  is 
all  mixed,  beat  or  stir  it  well  for  half  an  hour,  then  bake  on  the 
griddle  and  serve  hot. 

Rye  and  Indian  Griddle  Cakes. — One  cup  of  corn  meal,  two 
cups  of  rye  flour,  one  egg,  a  little  salt,  one  tea-spoon  of  soda,  two 
tea-spoons  of  cream  of  tartar. 

The  Tortilla  is  made  by  the  Mexican  women,  who  bruise  the 
boiled  maize,  clap  it  into  thin  cakes,  fling  it  on  the  heated  stone, 
and  the  market-women  then  cry  “  Tortillas !  Tortillas  cali- 
entes !  ” 

Indian  Corn  Biscuit. — Sift  one  quart  of  corn  meal  and  one 
pint  of  wheat  flour  into  a  pan  with  three  pints  of  milk  and  one 
tea-spoon  of  salt.  Beat  the  whites  and  yelks  of  four  eggs 
separately  as  for  sponge  cake  ;  then  first  stir  in  the  yelks,  and  the 
whites,  a  little  at  a  time,  into  the  previously  well-mixed  meal  and 
milk  ;  have  ready  buttered  a  sufficient  number  of  cups  or  small 
deep  pans,  nearly  fill  them  with  the  batter,  set  them  immediately 


BREAKFAST-CAKES.  25 

into  a  hot  oven  and  bake  them  fast.  Turn  them  out  of  the  cups 
and  send  them  warm  to  the  table.  They  will  puff  up  finely,  if 
at  the  last  you  stir  in  a  tea-spoon  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little 
warm  water. 

Nice  Johnny  Cake. — Sift  one  quart  of  Indian  meal  into  a  pan, 
rub  into  it  two  table-spoons  of  butter,  add  one  small  cup  of 
molasses  and  a  tea-spoon  of  ginger.  Pour  on  by  degrees  suffi¬ 
cient  warm  water  to  make  a  moderately  soft  dough  ;  it  may  be 
stirred  hard.  Butter  small  tin  pans,  fill  them  with  the  dough, 
and  bake  thoroughly  with  a  strong  heat.  Care  should  be  taken 
in  the  baking,  that  the  outside  does  not  burn  while  the  inside  is 
soft  and  raw. 

Steamed  Johnny  Cake. — One  pint  of  sour  cream,  one  tea¬ 
spoon  of  soda,  one  tea-spoon  of  salt.  Stir  in  a  handful  of  wheat 
flour,  mixed  with  corn  meal  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Put 
it  into  a  tin  basin  ;  set  this  into  a  bread  steamer,  and  keep  the 
steam  up  for  an  hour  or  more  according  to  the  size  of  the  cake. 
Serve  it  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Hoe-Cake. — This  cake  is  so  called  because  in  some  parts  of 
America  it  is  customary  to  bake  it  on  the  iron  of  a  hoe  turned 
up  before  the  fire.  Sift  a  tin  pan  half  full  of  Indian  meal,  throw 
in  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt.  Pour  boiling  water  on  the  meal,  a 
little  at  a  time,  stirring  it  well  with  a  spoon  as  you  proceed,  until 
you  have  a  stiff  dough.  It  must  be  thoroughly  mixed  and  stirred 
hard.  This  dough  must  be  mixed  over  night  in  order  to  eat  at 
breakfast.  After  mixing,  cover  the  pan  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place 
till  morning,  for  it  might  turn  sour  if  kept  warm.  In  the  morn¬ 
ing  flatten  and  shape  your  dough  into  cakes  about  the  size  of  a 
saucer,  then  bake  on  the  griddle.  The  griddle  should  be  well- 
heated  when  they  are  put  on,  so  that  they  will  brown  nicely  ; 


26  BREAKFAST. 

when  one  side  is  done,  turn  them  with  a  knife.  They  must  be 
baked  brown  on  both  sides.  They  should  be  made  about  half  an 
inch  thick. 

A  French  writer  relates  that  the  Arabs  sometimes  bake  cakes 
after  the  following  manner.  “  They  kindle  a  fire  in  a  stone 
pitcher,  and  when  it  is  hot,  they  mix  their  meal  in  water,  and 
daub  the  dough  with  the  hollow  of  their  hands  upon  the  outside 
of  the  pitcher  ;  the  dough  spreads  and  bakes  in  an  instant ;  the 
bread  comes  off  in  small  thin  slices  like  one  of  our  wafers.” 

Morning  Biscuit. — Prepare  the  dough  over  night  after  the 
following  manner.  Take  one  quart  of  flour,  put  in  it  a  little  salt, 
and  two  table-spoons  of  yeast,  one  pint  of  sour  milk  with  a  little 
saleratus  dissolved  in  it.  "When  the  dough  is  made,  work  into  it 
half  a  cup  of  butter  ;  then  cut  up  the  dough  into  small  pieces  for 
biscuit,  shape  them,  and  put  them  on  a  pan.  Cover  them  with  a 
cloth  and  let  them  stand  until  morning,  when  bake. 

Another  Biscuit. — Take  a  quart  of  the  bread  dough,  work  a 
small  tea-cup  of  butter  into  it  thoroughly,  shape  it  in  rolls,  or 
small  biscuits,  and  set  them  in  a  warm  place  until  light ;  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Buttered  Toast. — Take  good  bread  for  your  toast  if  you  wish 
it  nice,  for  poor  heavy  bread  makes  equally  poor  toast.  Dip 
your  toasted  slices  lightly  in  hot  water,  and  pour  melted  butter 
over  them. 

Milk  Toast. — For  a  couple  of  slices  of  toasted  bread,  heat 
half  a  pint  of  milk  a  little  salted,  when  boiling  hot  add  half  a 
cup  of  butter  and  pour  all  over  your  bread.  Serve  as  hot  as 
possible. 


BKEAKFAST-CAKES.  27 

Hot  cross-buns  are  universally  eaten  in  London  on  Good 
Friday  ;  it  is  one  of  the  relies  of  Roman  Catholic  times.  These 
have  a  cross  stamped  upon  them,  as  did  the  cross-buns  which  the 
Catholic  clergy  formerly  distributed  to  their  people  ;  these  latter 
were  made  from  the  dough  of  which  the  host  was  made,  and  there¬ 
by  regarded  peculiarly  blessed. 

Oat-meal  Cake. — One  pint  of  sour  or  buttermilk,  one  tea¬ 
spoon  of  soda, — salt.  Thicken  with  oatmeal ;  mix  about  as  stiff 
as  for  biscuit,  and  bake  on  a  griddle.  Turn  it  over  occasionally, 
and  bake  three  quarters  'of  an  hour. 

The  Authoress  of  Shetland  and  the  Shetlanders,  tells  a  story 
of  a  French  emigre,  who,  on  being  entertained  by  a  Scotch  Dow¬ 
ager,  asked  leave  to  taste  a  bear  meal  bannock ,  (a  coarsely  baked 
barley  meal  cake.)  Finding  it  not  much  to  the  liking  of  his  cul¬ 
tivated  palate,  he  expressed  his  disgust  rather  strongly,  which 
provoked  his  hostess  to  retort,  “  Some  folk  eat  bannocks,  and 
some  folk  eat pudclocks”  (the  Scotch  name  for  frogs.) 

Orange  County  Butter. — Strain  the  milk  into  clean  pans,  and 
allow  it  to  stand  until  it  is  soured  or  clouded  at  the  bottom  of 
the  pans  ;  36  hours  is  the  usual  time.  Keep  your  pans  in  a  room 
scrupulously  neat  and  cool,  where  a  free  circulation  of  air  can 
take  place, — as  any  impurities  in  the  air  will  have  a  deleterious 
effect  on  the  cream. 

When  you  take  off  the  cream  put  it  into  a  stone  jar,  unless 
you  have  sufficient  cream  to  churn  every  day.  Scald  the  churn 
and  dasher  thoroughly,  filling  the  former  with  cold  water  after¬ 
wards  to  cool  it.  Then  throw  out  the  water  from  the  churn,  put 
in  a  tumbler  of  fresh  water,  in  winter  it  should  be  warm,  in  sum¬ 
mer,  cold.  Then  pour  in  the  cream. 

In  churning ,  the  motion  should  be  regular  and  moderate ; 


28  BREAKFAST. 

slower  in  warm  weather  than  in  cold,  that  the  temperature  may 
be  uniform  throughout  the  -whole  mass. 

When  the  butter  comes,  pour  into  the  churn  a  glass  or  two 
of  water,  to  aid  in  cooling  and  “  gathering  ”  it.  Previously  scald 
the  butter-bowl  and  ladle,  and  cool  them,  leaving  cold  -water 
standing  in  the  bowl.  Take  the  butter  into  it,  and  wash  it  well 
in  several  waters.  When  the  buttermilk  is  washed  out,  pour  olf 
the  water,  and  salt  the  butter.  Place  it  then  in  a  cool  place,  and 
let  it  stand  about  eight  hours.  W ork  it  again  as  before,  and  replace 
it  until  the  next  morning,  when  it  should  be  carefully  worked  for 
the  third  time,  and  packed  away.  The  butter  should  be  worked 
in  a  cool  place,  and  put  away  out  of  the  air  and  light,  as  soon  as 
possible.  In  salting  it,  use  one  ounce  of  salt  to  one  pound  of 
butter.  (Liverpool  salt  is  considered  better  than  Onondaga.) 

If  you  pack  it  in  jars,  these  should  be  well  scalded  previous  to 
using  them.  If  in  firkins ,  the  latter  should  be  soaked  in  strong 
brine, — at  least  two  days  before  using  ;  then  filled  -with  swreet  hay 
and  hot  water,  and  left  to  stand  until  the  water  is  cooled.  When 
the  firkin  or  jar  is  filled,  spread  a  white  cloth  over  the  top,  press 
it  in  closely,  and  cover  it  with  damp  salt.  Some  persons  make  a 
brine  of  salt,  saltpetre,  and  loaf  sugar  ;  others  merely  put  salt  and 
a  little  charcoal  on  the  top  of  the  cloth. 

•  Great  attention  to  neatness  is  necessary  ;  the  least  neglect  in 
the  care  of  pans,  churn,  etc.,  will  surely  affect  the  taste  of  the 
butter. 

Churning. — “  Grievous  work  overnighte  with  ye  churning. 
Nought  wd  persuade  Gillian  but  that  y°  cream  was  bewitched  by 
Gamme  Gurney,  who  was  dissatisfied  last  Friday  with  her  dole, 
and  hobbled  away  mumping  and  cursing.  At  all  events  ye  but¬ 
ter  would  not  come ;  but  mother  was  resolved  not  to  have  so 
much  goode  creame  wasted  ;  soe  sent  for  Bess  and  me,  Daisy  and 
Mercy  Griggs,  and  insisted  on  our  churning  in  turn  till  ye  butter 


BUTTEE.  29  1 

‘ - - - - ’ 

came,  if  we  sat  up  all  nighte  for’t.  ’Twas  a  hard  saying,  and 
mighte  have  hampered  like  as  J ephtha  his  rash  vow ;  howheit 
soe  soone  as  she  had  left  us,  we  turned  it  into  a  frolick,  and  sang 
Chevy  Chase  from  end  to  end  to  beguile  time  ;  ne’ertheless,  the 
butter  wd  not  come  ;  soe  then  we  grew  sober,  and  at  y°  instance  j 

of  sweete  Mercy,  chanted  ye  119th  Psalme  ;  and  by  the  time  we  j 

had  attayned  to  “  Lucerna  pedibus,”  I  heard  ye  buttermilk  sep¬ 
arating  and  splashing  in  righte  earnest.  ’Twas  near  midnighte, 

•  however ;  and  Daisy  had  fallen  asleep  on  y6  dresser.  Gillian 
will  ne’er  be  convinced  but  that  our  Latin  broke  the  spell.” — 
Household  of  Sir  Thomas  More ,  by  his  daughter  Margery. 

Butter-making  Charm. — A  writer  in  1685  mentions  “  that  an 
old  woman  in  Essex  came  into  a  house  at  a  time  when  as  the 
maid  was  churning  of  butter,  and  having  labored  long  and  could 
not  make  her  butter  come,  the  old  woman  told  the  maid  what 
was  wont  to  be  done  when  she  was  a  maid,  and  also  in  her 
mother’s  time, — that  if  it  happened  their  butter  would  not  come 
readily,  they  used  a  charm  to  be  said  over  it ;  whilst  yet  it  was 
in  beating,  and  it  would  come  straightways,  and  that  was  this : — 

‘  Come,  butter,  come; 

Come,  butter,  come ; 

Peter  stands  at  the  gate 
Waiting  for  a  butter’d  cake ; 

Come,  butter,  come.’ 

“ 1  This,’  said  the  old  woman,  ‘  being  said  three  times,  will 
make  your  butter  come,  for  it  was  taught  my  mother  by  a 
learned  churchman  in  Queen  Mary’s  days,  when  churchmen  had 
more  cunning  and  could  teach  people  many  a  trick  that  our  min¬ 
isters  now-a-days  know  not.’  ” 

The  old  words  buyd  ur ,  softened  by  time  into  butter,  meant 
chief  or  excellent  food ;  some  suppose  from  its  being  used  by 
chiefs  only. 


30  BREAKFAST. 

To  preserve  a  firkin  of  Butter  Fresh  through  the  ivinter. — Take 
sufficient  water  to  cover  the  butter  about  an  inch  in  depth.  Make 
it  salt  enough  to  float  an  egg  ;  then  add  to  it  one  small  teaspoon- 
full  of  pulverized  saltpetre,  six  small  tea-spoonfuls  of  pulverized 
loaf  sugar.  This  receipt  comes  from  a  person  who  has  had  much 
experience  in  making  and  preserving  butter. 

To  restore  rancid  Butter . — Work  it  thoroughly  in  several 
changes  of  water ;  after  pouring  off  the  water,  salt  the  butter 
anew,  and  add  a  little  sugar  ;  about  half  an  ounce  to  one  pound. 
It  will  thus  be  rendered  more  palatable,  although  it  may  not  en¬ 
tirely  restore  the  first  delicate  flavor  peculiar  to  new  and  sweet 
butter. 

Mode  of  preserving  Butter  Fresh  in  India. — Butter  is  reduced 
to  a  pure  oil,  by  boiling  it  in  an  open  vessel,  until  all  the  water 
is  evaporated,  which  is  shown  bythe  ceasing  of  the  violent  bub¬ 
bling.  The  liquid  oil  is  then  allowed  to  stand  a  short  time,  until 
the  curd  has  subsided,  when  it  is  strained  into  bottles  and  corked 
tight.  When  wanted  for  use  it  is  gently  heated  and  poured  out. 
It  is  said  to  be  preserved  in  this  way,  for  several  years,  and  that 
this  is  the  best  form  of  butter,  for  use  in  sauces.  This  oil  is 
called  Ghee. 

The  Orientals,  particularly  the  Arabians,  are  exceedingly  fond 
of  clarified  butter.  Burton,  a  recent  traveller  in  Arabia,  saw  a 
boy  drink  nearly  a  tumbler  full,  although  his  friends  warned  him 
that  it  would  make  him  as  fat  as  an  elephant.  In  those  countries 
if  a  man  cannot  enjoy  clarified  butter  it  is  considered  a  sign  that 
his  stomach  is  out  of  order.  They  cook  fried  meat  swimming  in 
grease,  and  rice  saturated  with  melted,  even  rancid  butter. 

Butter  was  used  sparingly  among  the  Romans,  as  a  medicine 
only.  In  general,  the  Olive  groves  of  the  hot  climates  supersede 
the  use  of  butter. 


FOKKS.  31 

Forks. — It  is  generally  supposed  that  Tom  Coryate,  of  queer 
memory,  introduced  the  use  of  forks  from  Italy,  so  lately  as  the 
time  of  James  I.  But  the  Provencal  Plantagenet  Queens  did  not 
feed  with  their  fingers,  whatever  their  English  subjects  might  do; 
since  in  the  list  of  Eleanora’s  plate  occurs  a  pair  of  knives  with 
silver  sheaths  enamelled,  with  fork  of  crystal,  and  a  silver  fork 
handled  with  ebony  and  ivory.  Queen  Elizabeth  had  “  one  of 
golde,  one  of  corail ,  slightly  garnished  with  golde,  and  one  of 
crystal,  garnished  with  golde  slightly,  and  sparcks  of  garnetts.” 
But  she  kept  them  for  ornament,  and  not  for  use  ;  preferring  to 
feed  herself  with  her  fingers. 

The  prejudice  against  this  article  of  table  furniture  was  great, 
even  amongst  the  higher  classes.  One  of  the  divines  of  that 
day  preached  against  the  use  of  it  as*“  an  insult  on  Providence 
not  to  touch  one’s  meat  with  one’s  fingers.” 

It  was  about  the  year  1600  that  a  traveller  by  the  name  of 
Tom  Coryate  noticed  the  common  use  of  a  fork  by  the  Italians. 
He  says,  “  The  reason  of  this  is,  the  Italian  cannot  by  any  means 
endure  to  have  his  dish  of  meat  touched  with  fingers,  seeing  that 
all  men’s  fingers  are  not  alike  clean  !  Therefore,  I  myself  thought 
good  to  imitate  the  Italian  fashion  by  this  forked  cutting  of 
meate,  not  only  while  I  was  in  Italy,  but  also  in  Germany,  and 
oftentimes  in  England  since  I  came  home.” 

Eor  a  long  time  after  this,  it  was  only  “  the  spruce  gallants  ” 
who  had  travelled  in  Italy,  that'  used  the  fork,  it  being  classed 
among  foreign  fopperies. 

“  Such  was  the  party  hatred  of  the  Guelphs  and  Ghibellines, 
the  two  great  Italian  factions,  that  they  carried  their  rancor  even 
into  their  domestic  habits  at  table,  the  Guelphs  placed  their 
knives  and  spoons  longwise  ;  the  Ghibellines  across ; — the  one 
cut  his  bread  across,  the  other  longwise ; — even  in  cutting  an 


32  BREAKFAST. 

orange  they  could  not  agree,  for  the  Guelph  cut  his  orange  horizon 
tally,  and  the  Ghibelline  downwards.” — D’Israeli. 


MEATS,  FISH,  AND  OMELETTES. 

The  Beef -Steak  Club. — This  Club  was  formed  in  England 
about  the  year  1735,  and  had  a  great  share  of  fame  in  its  day. 
It  originated  in  the  merest  accident.  Lord  Peterborough  was 
visiting  Eich,  the  famous  harlequin,  in  his  own  apartment,  and, 

“  With  him  conversing,  he  forgot  all  time.” 

Not  so  Mr.  Eich,  who  had  an  internal  unfailing  monitor.  With¬ 
out  interrupting  his  discourse,  or  giving  the  least  intimation  to 
his  aristocratic  visitor  of  his  intentions,  he  stirred  his  lire,  laid 
his  cloth,  drew  a  beef-steak  out  of  his  cupboard,  and  cooked  it. 
My  lord  was  courteously  invited  to  partake  of  it,  and  did  so, 
and,  so  much  to  his  satisfaction,  that,  before  parting  from  his 
humorous  acquaintance,  he  made  an  engagement  to  dine  with 
him  in  the  same  room,  at  the  same  hour,  and  on  a  similar  dish, 
on  that  day  week.  The  suggestion,  or  the  steak,  was  relished 
by  others  as  much  as  by  my  lord  and  Mr.  Eich,  and  this  was  the 
origin  of  the  Beef-Steak  Club. 

Beep-Steak. 

Pound  iv ell  your  meat,  until  the  fibres  break ; 

Be  sure,  that  next  you  have  to  broil  the  steak, 

Good  coals  in  plenty ;  nor  it  a  moment  leave, 

But  turn  it  over  this  way,  and  then  that ; 

The  lean  should  be  quite  rare,  not  so  the  fat. 

The  platter,  now  and  then,  the  juice  receive, 

Put  on  your  butter,  place  on  it  your  meat, 

Salt,  pepper,  turn  it  over,  serve  aud  eat. 


MEATS,  FISH,  AND  OMELETTES.  33 

Welsh  mode  of  serving  Beef-Steak. — Broil  it  over  a  quick  fire, 
take  it  up  on  a  platter,  and  butter  it  well.  Then  slice  onions 
over  it ;  after  which,  cut  them  up  fine  on  the  meat.  The  onions 
impart  their  flavor  to  the  beef,  but  are  not  eaten  with  it.  It  is 
important  to  cut  them  on  the  steak ,  otherwise  this  flavor  is  lost. 

Mrs.  W.’s  mode  of  making  Sausages. — To  5  lbs.  of  chopped 
meat,  1  table-spoon  of  salt,  1  table-spoon  of  pepper,  1^  table¬ 
spoon  pulverized  sage.  After  the  meat  is  well  chopped  and  pre¬ 
pared,  make  it  into  round  cakes  an  inch  thick,  and  set  them 
away  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted,  or  fill  a  long,  narrow  bag  (of 
the  size  of  your  arm)  with  the  prepared  meat ;  tie  it  tightly,  and 
hang  it  up  in  a  cool  place. 

In  frying,  turn  the  cakes,  or  slices,  carefully,  that  they  may 
retain  their  shape,  and  cook  them  thoroughly. 

English  Mutton  Sausages. — Take  cold  roast  mutton  ;  cut  it  in 
as  large  slices  as  possible.  Then  take  bread  crumbs,  sweet  herbs, 
salt,  and  pepper,  wet  them  with  an  egg,  and  put  a  small  quantity 
in  the  centre  of  each  slice.  Roll  each  slice  by  itself,  and  tie  it 
up  as  tight  as  you  can.  In  cooking,  lay  them  in  hot  melted 
butter,  and  cook  until  brown  and  crisp. 

Mutton  Chop. — Broil  over  a  quick  fire,  sprinkle  a  little  salt 
on  it  while  cooking ;  turn  often,  and,  when  done,  season  well 
with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 

Broiled  Veal. — Work  together  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  a 
little  flour  in  a  new  baking  pan  ;  add  cold  water,  and  set  it  over 
the  fire,  sprinkling  in  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  meat  has  been 
on  the  gridiron  a  few  moments,  take  it  up,  dip  it  into  the  gravy 
(before  mentioned),  and  return  it  again  to  the  gridiron.  Repeat 
this  process  two  or  three  times,  until  the  meat  is  cooked,  when 
3 


34  BREAKFAST. 

pour  the  gravy  over  it  and  serve.  Yeal  is  not  as  dry  when 
cooked  in  this  way. 

Gridirons. — Tiie  Escurial. — Philip  II.,  of  Spain,  having  won 
a  battle  on  the  10th  of  August,  the  festival  of  St.  Lawrence, 
vowed  to  consecrate  a  palace,  a  church,  and  a  monastery  to  his 
honor.  He  erected  the  Escurial,  which  is  the  largest  palace  in 
Europe.  As  this  Saint  suffered  martyrdom  by  being  broiled  on  a 
gridiron,  (at  Eome  under  Valerian,)  Philip  caused  this  immense 
palace  to  consist  of  several  courts  and  quadrangles,  all  disposed 
in  the  shape  of  a  gridiron.  The  bars  form  several  courts ;  and 
the  royal  family  occupy  the  handle.  It  is  said  that  gridirons  are 
to  be  met  with  in  every  part  of  the  building,  either  iron,  painted, 
or  sculptured  in  marble,  etc.  They  are  over  the  doors  in  the 
yards,  the  windows,  and  galleries. 

Broiled  Ham  and  Eggs. — Cut  the  ham  in  thin  slices,  take  off 
the  rind,  wash  them  in  cold  water,  and  lay  them  on  the  gridiron 
over  quick  coals.  Turn  frequently,  and  they  will  soon  be  broiled. 
Take  them  up  on  a  platter  (previously  warmed),  butter  and  pepper 
the  ham.  Have  ready  on  the  fire  a  pan  of  boiling  water  from 
the  tea-kettle ;  break  into  it  as  many  eggs  as  you  require  for 
your  family,  and  when  “  the  white  ”  is  done,  dip  out  each  egg 
carefully  with  a  spoon,  so  as  to  keep  it  whole,  and  set  it  on  one 
of  the  slices  of  ham.  In  that  way  arrange  them  handsomely  on 
the  dish.  Sprinkle  pepper  over  each  egg,  and  serve. 

In  the  Province  of  La  Mancha,  (Spain,)  the  phrase  “  the  grace 
of  God”  is  applied  to  a  dish  of  eggs  and  bacon  fried  in  honey. 
— Cervantes. 

Broiled  Pigeons.— Take,  young  and  tender  pigeons,  split  them 
open  in  the  back,  roll  them  so  as  to  break  the  bones,  lay  them  on 


MEATS,  FISH,  AND  OMELETTES.  35 

the  gridiron,  and  put  a  tin  cover  over  them.  "Watch  them  closely, 
and  turn  them  two  or  three  times.  When  nearly  cooked,  dip  the 
pigeons  in  melted  butter,  and  lay  them  hack  on  the  gridiron. 
After  you  take  them  up,  salt  and  pepper  a  little. 

Veal  Bewitched. — Take  the  hind-quarter  of  veal,  three  slices  of 
salt  pork,  three  slices  of  bread,  three  eggs,  salt  and  pepper  to  your 
taste.  Chop  the  meat,  pork,  and  bread  fine,  add  the  beaten  eggs, 
and  wet  the  whole  quite  soft  with  milk.  Put  it  into  a  baking 
dish,  and  bake  two  hours.  When  done,  it  will  turn  out  in  the 
form  of  the  dish.  To  be  sliced  and  eaten  cold. 

Tripe. — When  tripe  comes  from  the  hands  of  the  butcher,  it  is 
generally  cleaned ;  it  is  only  necessary,  therefore,  for  the  cook  to 
soak  it  in  salt  and  water  for  four  or  five  days,  changing  the 
water  every  day.  Then  cut  it  into  pieces,  scrape  and  rinse  them  ; 
boil  them  until  tender,  and  drop  them  in  a  jar  of  spiced  vinegar. 
After  two  or  three  days  it  may  be  eaten  cold,  or  broiled  for  a 
minute  on  the  gridiron.  Butter  and  pepper  to  your  taste. 

This  is  a  nice  breakfast  dish. 

Pickled  Goose.  (A  German  breakfast  dish.) — Boil  a  young  goose, 
take  the  breast,  and  the  flesh  from  the  legs,  and  pour  hot  spiced 
vinegar  over  it ;  when  cool,  put  it  in  a  jar,  and  cork  it  up.  It 
will  keep  all  winter. 

Meat  Biscuit. — This  preparation,  containing  much  nutriment 
in  a  small  bulk,  has  been  contrived  for  the  use  of  seamen.  Good 
wheat  flour,  or  other  meal,  is  mixed  with  a  concentrated  fluid 
extract  of  flesh,  which  is  strained  through  a  wire  cloth,  and  freed 
from  fat.  The  dough  thus  formed  is  made  into  biscuit,  which 
must  be  preserved,  in  mass  or  coarse  powder,  free  from  moisture, 
in  gutta-percha  bags,  or  air-tight  cases.  To  prepare  a  pint  of 


36  BREAKFAST. 

soup,  an  ounce  of  the  powdered  biscuit,  first  made  into  a  thin 
paste  with  cold  water,  is  stirred  into  sufficient  boiling  water,  and 
the  whole  boiled  for  twenty  minutes.  Salt  and  pepper  are  then 
added  to  suit  the  taste. 

Pemmican  is  made  by  mixing  muscular  flesh,  cut  in  thin  strips, 
thoroughly  dried,  and  reduced  to  powder,  with  melted  fat. 

Liver  Cheese. — Boil  a  beef’s  liver,  heart,  and  tongue  ;  remove 
all  the  hard  and  sinewy  parts,  and  chop  the  remahlder  fine ;  add 
to  this  half  a  pound  of  boiled  pork,  also  chopped  fine  ;  season  it 
all  well ;  then  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  or  put  it  into  a  pan,  and  press  it 
hard.  After  standing  a  few  hours,  it  will  come  out  in  a  solid 
cake,  and  is  very  nice  to  slice  from,  for  eating  at  breakfast  or 
supper. 

Broiled  Chickens. — Split  the  chicken  in  two  parts,  and  roll  it 
gently  to  reduce  the  bones.  Put  the  halves  in  a  pan,  with  water 
enough  to  cover  them ;  when  heated  through,  lay  them  on  a  grid¬ 
iron,  and  broil  them.  When  nearly  done,  salt  and  pepper  them ; 
and,  when  cooked,  serve  with  plenty  of  butter. 

Broiled  Fresh  Fish. — After  the  fish  is  cleaned,  wash  it  well, 
an<l  sprinkle  as  much  salt  upon  it  as  it  requires  for  cooking. 
When  it  has  been  in  the  salt  a  few  hours,  hang  it  in  the  chimney- 
corner  all  night,  if  it  is  to  be  cooked  in  the  morning. 

Butter  the  bars  of  the  gridiron,  lay  the  inside  of  the  fish  upon 
it,  and,  when  that  side  is  done ,  turn  it.  Cook  it  slowly,  and 
butter  it  well  Avhen  served. 

Broiled  Salt  Fish. — Salt  shad  or  mackerel  should  soak  several 
hours  in  cold  water,  previous  to  cooking.  Change  the  water, 
scrape  the  fish,  and  hang  it  to  drain  for  a  short  time  ;  then  butter 


HEATS,  FISH,  AND  OMELETTES.  37 

the  bars  of  the  gridiron,  and  sprinkle  a  little  flour  on  the  inside 
of  the  fish,  to  prevent  its  sticking  to  the  gridiron.  Cut  the  fish 
into  two  parts,'  (lengthwise,)  lay  the  thickest  side  towards  the  fire, 
and  do  not  turn  the  fish  until  that  side  appears  cooked,  then  turn 
carefully. 

When  the  fish  is  done,  take  it  up  in  a  tin  pan,  pour  boiling 
water  from  the  tea-kettle  over  it,  and  let  it  stand  for  five  minutes. 
Then  turn  off  the  water,  butter  it  and  serve. 

The  Callipeva,  called  by  some  the  salmon  of  the  tropics,  is  in 
high  favor  in  the  West  Indies,  on  account  of  its  delicious  flavor. 
“  When  cut  in  slices,  folded  in  tissue  paper,  and  lightly  fried, 
nothing  can  surjiass  it.” 

Indian  Method  of  Broiling  Fresh  Fish. — They  take  a  fish  fresh 
from  the  water,  cut  out  the  entrails,  and,  without  removing  the 
scales,  wash  it '  clean,  dry  it  in  a  cloth  or  in  grease,  and  cover  it 
all  over  with  clear,  hot  ashes.  When  the  flesh  will  part  from  the 
hone,  they  draw  it  out  of  the  ashes,  strip  off  the  skin,  and  it  is 
fit  for  the  table  of  the  most  fastidious  epicure. — Mrs.  Moodie. 

The  modes  of  preserving  fish  are  various ;  they  are  salted  and 
dried,  smoked  and  potted,  baked  and  preserved  in  oil.  Sev¬ 
eral  savage  nations  possess  the  art  of  preparing  fish  in  a  variety 
of  ways,  even  as  a  kind  of  flour,  bread,  etc. 

Potted  Shad.  (A  Qualcer  Dish). — Wash  the  shad  in  salt  and 
water,  wipe  it  dry  with  a  cloth,  season  it  Avith  pepper  and  salt  as 
for  broiling.  Cut  it  in  square  pieces,  about  the  size  you  ordinarily 
cut  when  serving  at  table.  Put  a  layer  of  these  pieces  in  the  bot¬ 
tom  of  a  jar,  sprinkling  in  a  few  cloves,  allspice  and  mace ;  do  the 
same  Avith  each  layer,  until  the  jar  or  pot  is  filled.  Pour  over  all 
good  cider  vinegar  to  the  top.  Grease  a  paper  Avith  butter,  and 


,38  BREAKFAST. 

fit  it  to  the  size  of  the  pot.  Make  a  paste  of  flour  and  water, 
roll  it  out  thin  like  pie-crust,  and  cover  the  jar,  pressing  it  closelv 
around  the  sides  to  exclude  the  air.  Send  it  to  the  baker’s,  with 
instructions  to  put  it  in  the  oven  when  the  bread  comes  out,  to  re¬ 
main  there  until  he  requires  his  oven  for  the  afternoon  baking ;  to 
put  it  in  again,  when  his  bread  is  out  in  the  afternoon,  and  let  it 
remain  in  all  night.  Shad  thus  prepared  makes  a  nice  relish  ;  is 
suitable  for  supper  as  well  as  for  breakfast. 

Fried  Oysters. — Dip  each  oyster  in  egg-batter,  or  simply  in 
beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker-crumbs  rolled  very  fine  ;  lay  them  in 
melted  butter,  brown  them,  turn  quickly  and  serve. 

Broiled  Oysters. — Take  large-sized  oysters,  salt  and  pepper 
them,  dip  them  in  beaten  yolk  of  egg  and  afterwards  in  cracker- 
crumbs  ;  roll  each  in  a  small  piece  of  buttered  paper,  and  lay  it 
on  the  gridiron.  They  form  a  delicate  dish  for  invalids. 

Pickled  Oysters. — Open  your  oysters  from  the  shell,  save  the 
liquor  and  strain  it ;  then  scald  it  by  a  slow  fire  and  skim  it ; 
put  in  the  oysters,  a  few  at  a  time,  as  in  doing  them  in  large 
quantities  they  will  be  in  danger  of  burning ;  if  the  liquor  be 
thick,  mix  with  it  a  little  salt  and  water  to  harden  and  plump 
them ;  do  not  overdo  them,  this  your  sight  and  taste  will  dis¬ 
cover.  The  fire  must  be  slow.  After  they  are  taken  out,  spice 
the  liquor  to  your  taste  and  scald  it  again.  When  all  is  cold , 
pack  down  the  oysters  and  pour  the  liquor  over  them.  To  one 
gallon  of  oysters,  add  a  pint  of  white  wine ;  but  no  vinegar. 

Frogs. — The  consumption  of  frogs  is  not  now,  as  formerly, 
confined  to  the  French.  An  English  paper,  the  Athenseum,  re¬ 
cently  came  out  in  favor  of  frogs  :  “  There  is  no  reason,”  it  re¬ 
marks,  “  why  we  should  eschew  frogs,  and  relish  turtle.”  They 


MEATS',  TISII,  AND  OMELETTES.  39 

are  eaten  to  a  considerable  extent  by  Americans  ;  and  frogs  com 
mand  a  high  price  in  the  New  York  market.  “  In  America,  the 
flesh  of  the  huge  bull-frog  is  tender,  white,  and  affords  excellent 
eating.  Some  bull-frogs  weigh  as  much  as  half-a-pound,  but  the 
hind  legs  are  the  only  parts  used  as  food.”  The  green,  or  edible 
frog,  is  in  high  request  on  the  Continent  of  Europe,  being  deli¬ 
cate  and  well-tasted.  In  Vienna,  where  the  consumption  of  these 
frogs  is  very  considerable,  they  are  preserved  alive,  and  fattened 
in  froggeries  ( grenouillieres )  constructed  for  the  express  purpose. 

To  Cook  Frogs. — Take  the  hind  legs  of  a  young  frog,  skin 
them — wash,  and  fry  them  in  butter  ;  or  broil  them.  They  are 
as  delicate  as  the  breast  of  a  chicken. 

Queen  Elizabeth,  out  of  compliment  to  her  royal  French  suitor, 
the  Due  d’Alencon,  cherished  the  jewelled  similitude  of  a  frog  in 
her  bosom,  in  the  form  of  a  brooch. 

Eels. — After  eels  are  skinned  and  dressed,  they  should  be 
salted  on  both  sides,  leaving  them  on  a  plate  over  night.  In  the 
morning,  hang  each  on  a  nail  in  your  kitchen,  piercing  a  hole  near 
the  head  by  which  to  hang  it.  Let  them  hang  thus  until  the  next 
morning,  viz. :  24  hours.  Then  before  cooking  them,  cut  each  eel 
into  pieces  a  finger  in  length.  Broil  them  over  a  quick  fire,  turn¬ 
ing  them  frequently.  Butter,  salt  and  pepper  them  when  cooked. 

It  is  said  that  Thomas  a  Becket  gave  £5  on  one  occasion  for 
a  dish  of  eels.  A  lamprey  is  a  species  of  eel. 

Stewed  Lamprey. — Lines  on  the  death  of  Henry  I.,  of  England, 
by  Bobert  of  Gloucester  : — 

“  When  fie  came  Lome,  he  willed  him  a  lamprey  to  eat, 

Though  his  leeches  him  forbade,  for  it  was  a  feeble  meat; 

But  he  would  not  them  believe,  for  he  loved  it  well  enow, 

And  eat  in  evil  case,  for  the  lamprey  it  him  slew, 

For  right  soon  after  it  into  anguish  him  drew, 

And  he  died  for  his  lamprey  unto  his  own  woe.” 


40  BREAKFAST. 

Alexander  Pope  was  extravagantly  fond  of  potted  lampreys 
Some  of  his  friends  imputed  his  death  to  his  having  eaten  a  dish 
of  them. 

Fried  Fish. — If  the  fish  are  large,  cut  them  in  pieces,  wipe 
them  dry  with  a  cloth,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  and  afterwards  in 
bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  or  in  Indian  meal.  Lay  them  in  the 
heated  melted  butter,  and  fry  until  brown,  sprinkling  a  little  salt 
and  pepper  over  them.  Then  turn  them  and  brown  on  the  other 
side.  Be  particular  that  the  butter  be  hot  when  you  lay  the  fish 
in,  for  it  is  important  that  fried  fish  be  not  greasy ;  this  they  surely 
will  be  if  laid  into  fat  not  sufficiently  hot.  First  try  the  fat  with 
bread  crumbs,  and  if  this  brown  nicely  without  burning,  you  have 
the  right  heat. 

A  traveller  in  Peru,  tells  us  of  a  great  delicacy  called  chantisa, 
which  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner  : — The  fish  are  pre¬ 
served  by  using  as  much  salt  as  is  necessary  to  season  them. 
They  are  then  put  into  baskets  lined  with  leaves,  and  a  large 
stone  is  placed  on  the  top,  to  press  them  into  a  solid  mass,  like  a 
cheese.  After  standing  a  day  or  two,  a  small  fire  of  cedar,  or 
some  aromatic  wood,  is  kindled  underneath,  to  smoke  them.  After 
remaining  10  or  12  hours,  the  cakes  are  taken  out  of  the  baskets 
and  again  exposed  to  the  smoke,  till  it  has  penetrated  through 
them,  when  they  are  laid  up  for  use.  A  small  portion  of  the 
smoked  chantisa  is  generally  added  to  fish  while  cooking,  to  which 
it  communicates  a  very  delicate  flavor. 

To  detect  poor  Eggs. — Take  them  to  a  dark  place,  and  hold 
them  between  the  eye  and  a  lighted  candle  or  lamp.  If  the  egg 
is  good ,  the  light  will  shine  through  with  a  reddish  glow, — while 
if  the  egg  is  stole ,  it  will  be  opaque  or  dark. 

Recette  de  la  Fondue. — “  W eigh  the  number  of  eggs,  which 

O  DO  / 


MEATS,  FISII,  AND  OMELETTES.  41 

you  wish  to  make  use  of,  according  to  the  expected  number  of 
guests.  You  then  take  a  piece  of  good  Swiss  cheese  weighing  a 
quarter,  and  a  piece  of  butter  weighing  a  sixth  of  this  weight. 

“You  must  break  and  beat  well  the  eggs  in  a  stew-pan,  after 
which  you  put  in  the  butter,  and  the  cheese  grated  or  cut  thin. 

“  Put  the  pan  on  the  stove,  (which  should  have  a  brisk  fire,) 
and  turn  with  a  spoon  until  the  mixture  is  sufficiently  thick  and 
soft. 

“  Put  in  little  or  no  salt,  according  as  the  cheese  is  more  or 
less  old,  and  a  large  supply  of  pepper,  which  is  one  of  the  positive 
charms  of  this  ancient  dish.  Serve  it  upon  a  dish  slightly 
warmed  ;  and  with  it  drink  your  best  wine,  and  you  will  see 
wonders.” — M.  Savarin. 

Omelette  or  French  egg  cake . — Beat  up  thoroughly  six  eggs, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  sweet  cream  or  milk,  and  some  salt,  and  fry  in 
a  pan,  in  which  there  is  half  an  ounce  of  melted  butter,  over  a 
quick  fire.  In  order  that  the  omelette  may  remain  juicy  and  soft, 
it  is  necessary  that  the  pans  hould  be  hot  before  the  eggs  are 
poured  in ;  during  the  frying,  move  the  pan  continually  to  and 
fro,  so  that  what  is  below  may  always  come  on  top  again ;  you 
may  help  it  with  the  fork  ;  continue  this  till  there  has  formed  a 
cake  four  inches  in  width,  and  one  inch  thick ;  now  hold  the  pan 
still  for  a  moment  to  give  the  omelette  a  color,  then  turn  it  out  on 
the  proper  dish  and  serve  immediately. 

Soycr’s  Omelette. — Break  four  eggs  into  a  basin,  add  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  spoonful  of  pepper,  beat  them 
up  well  with  a  fork,  put  into  the  frying-pan  one  ounce  and  a  half 
of  butter,  which  is  put  on  the  fire  until  hot ;  then  pour  in  the  eggs, 
which  keep  on  mixing  quick  with  a  spoon,  until  all  is  delicately 
set ;  then  let  them  slip  to  the  edge  of  the  pan,  laying  hold  by  the 
handle  and  raising  it  slantways,  which  will  give  an  elongated 


42  BREAKFAST. 

form  to  the  omelette  ;  turn  in  the  edges,  let  it  set  a  moment,  and 
turn  it  over  on  to  a  dish  and  serve. 

It  ought  to  be  a  nice  yellow  color,  done  to  a  nicety,  and  as 
light  and  delicate  as  possible. 

The  pan  in  which  omelettes  are  cooked  should  be  free  from 
damp,  therefore  put  it  on  the  fire,  with  a  little  butter ;  let  this 
get  hot ;  remove  it,  wiping  the  pan  with  a  dry  cloth  and  then 
you  will  be  able  to  make  the  omelette  in  perfection. 

Fowls’  eggs  variously  colored  are  in  high  favor  with  our 
foreign  population  at  Easter  ;  they  also  form  a  part  of  all  the 
Malay  entertainments  in  Borneo. 

“  An  Ostrich  egg  is  considered  equal  in  its  contents  to  24 
of  the  domestic  hen.  AY  hen  taken  fresh  from  the  nest  they  are 
very  palatable,  and  are  wholesome,  though  somewhat  heavy  food. 
The  best  mode  of  cooking  them  is,  to  place  one  end  of  the  egg  in 
hot  ashes,  and  making  a  small  orifice  at  the  other,  to  keep  stirring 
the  contents  with  a  stick,  till  they  are  sufficiently  roasted  ;  and 
thus,  with  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  you  have  a  nice  ome¬ 
lette.” 

Here  is  breakfast  ready  laid.  Imprimis,  tea  and  coffee ; 
second,  dry  toast ;  third,  butter  ;  fourth,  eggs  ;  fifth,  ham  ;  sixth, 
something  potted  ;  seventh,  bread,  salt,  mustard,  knives,  forks,  etc. 
One  of  the  first  things  that  belong  to  breakfast  is  a  good  fire. 
There  is  a  delightful  mixture  of  the  lively  and  snug  in  coming 
down  into  one’s  breakfast  room  of  a  cold  morning,  and  finding 
every  thing  prepared  for  us  ;  a  blazing  grate,  clean  table-cloth,  and 
tea-things,  newly  washed  faces  and  combed  heads  of  a  set  of  good- 
humored  urchins,  and  the  sole  empty  chair  ready  for  its  occu¬ 
pant. — Leigh  Hunt. 


A  CALL  TO  BREAKFAST. 

4S 

A  CALL  TO  BREAKFAST. 

Breakfast!  come  to  breakfast! 

Little  ones  and  all, — 

How  their  merry  footsteps 

Patter  at  the  call ! 

Break  the  bread ;  pour  freely 

Milk  that  cream-like  flows  ; 

A  blessing  on  tbeir  appetites 

And  on  their  lips  of  rose. 

Breakfast !  summer  breakfast ! 

Throw  the  casement  high, 

And  catch  the  warblers’  carol 

On  glad  wing  glancing  by. 

Set  flowers  upon  your  table 

Impearled  with  dew-drops  rare, 

For  still  their  fragrance  speaks  of  Him 

Who  made  this  earth  so  fair. 

Breakfast !  winter  breakfast ! 

Recruit  the  blazing  fire ; 

Heap  coal  upon  the  glowing  grate, 

Or  fill  the  furnace  higher. 

Though  drifted  snows  descending 

May  whiten  field  and  bower, 

Where  loving  hearts  are  true  and  warm, 

King  Frost  hath  little  power. 

Dinner  may  be  pleasant, 

So  may  social  tea ; 

But  yet,  methinks  the  breakfast 

Is  best  of  all  the  three : 

With  its  greeting  smile  of  welcome, 

Its  holy  voice  of  prayer, 

It  forgeth  heavenly  armor 

To  foil  the  hosts  of  care. 

Breakfast !  come  to  breakfast ! 

Some  there  are  who  hear 

No  such  household  music 

Ringing  on  their  ear. 

44  BREAKFAST. 

Wilt  thou  from  thy  store-house 
Cheer  them  when  they  pine — 

Shedding  blessed  sunbeams 
On  their  day  and  thine  ? 

Mas.  Sigourney. 

Saying  grace. — The  form  of  the  benediction  before  eating  has  j 
its  peculiar  beauty  at  a  poor  man’s  table,  or  at  the  simple  and 
unprovocative  repasts  of  children.  It  is  here  that  the  grace  be¬ 
comes  exceedingly  graceful.  The  indigent  man  who  hardly  knows 
whether  he  shall  have  a  meal  the  next  day  or  not,  sits  down  to 
his  fare  with  a  present  sense  of  the  blessing,  which  can  be  but 
feebly  acted  by  the  rich,  into  whose  minds  the  conception  of 
wanting  a  meal,  could  never,  but  by  some  extreme  theory,  have 
entered. — Charles  Lamb. 

Before  my  meals  and  after,  I  let  myself  loose  from  all 
thoughts,  and  now  would  forget  that  I  ever  studied  ;  a  full  mind 
takes  away  the  body’s  appetite  no  less  than  a  full  body  makes  a 
dull  and  unwieldy  mind ;  company,  discourse,  recreations  are 
now  seasonable  and  welcome  ;  these  prepare  me  for  a  diet,  not 
gluttonous,  but  medicinal ;  the  palate  may  not  be  pleased,  but 
the  stomach,  nor  that  for  its  own  sake  ;  neither  would  I  think  any 
of  these  comforts  worth  respect  in  themselves,  but  in  their  use, 
in  their  end,  so  far  as  they  may  enable  me  to  better  things.  If  I 
see  any  dish  to  tempt  my  palate,  I  fear  a  serpent  in  that  apple, 
and  would  please  myself  in  a  wilful  denial ;  I  rise  capable  of 
more,  not  desirous  ;  not  now  immediately  from  my  trencher  tc 
my  book,  but  after  some  intermission. — Bishop  Hall. 


COOKS  AND  COOKERY. 


45 


COOKS  AND  COOKERY. 

“  To  cookery  we  owe  well-ordered  states 
Assembling  men  in  dear  society. 

*  *  beneath  the  earth  lay  hid 

The  precious  salt,  that  gold  of  cookery  ! 

And  when  its  particles  the  palate  thrilled, 

The  source  of  seasonings,  charm,  of  cookery,  came. 

They  served  a  paunch,  with  rich  ingredients  stored, 

And  tender  kid,  within  two  covering  plates, 

‘Warm  melted  in  the  mouth.  So  art  improved ! 

At  length  a  miracle,  not  yet  performed, 

They  minced  the  meat,  which  rolled  in  herbage  soft, 

Nor  meat  nor  herbage  seemed,  but  to  the  eye, 

And  to  the  taste,  the  counterfeited  dish 
Mimick’d  some  curious  fish ;  invention  rare ! 

Then  every  dish  was  seasoned  more  and  more, 

Salted,  or  sour,  or  sweet,  and  mingled  oft 
Oatmeal  and  honey.  To  enjoy  the  meal 
Men  congregated  in  the  populous  towns, 

And  cities  flourished,  which  we  cooks  adorned 
With  all  the  pleasures  of  domestic  life.” 

The  culinary  art  is  as  old  as  the  human  race.  As  man  had 
control  given  him  over  all  the  animal  and  vegetable  world,  he 
very  soon  contrived  to  make  every  thing  useful  to  himself ;  and 
in  providing  for  the  claims  of  hunger,  lid  followed  the  first  dictates 
of  nature.  Such  articles  of  food  as  were  not  palatable  in  their 
natural  state,  he  made  so  by  mixing  them  with  others  agreeable 
to  the  taste,  or  by  submitting  them  to  the  action  of  fire. 

An  early  instance  of  skill  in  cooking  is  given  in  the  case  of 
Rebecca,  who  dressed  the  flesh  of  a  young  kid  after  the  manner 
of  venison,  when  she  wished  to  obtain  the  blessing  for  her  favor 
ite  son. 

A  similar  proof  of  the  progress  of  the  ancients  in  the  culi- 


46  BREAKFAST. 

nary  art,  is  shown  in  the  anecdote  of  the  King  of  Bithynia,  who, 
in  some  expedition  against  the  Scythians,  in  the  winter,  and  at  a 
great  distance  from  the  sea,  had  a  violent  longing  for  a  small  fish 
called  apliy.  Ilis  cook  cut  a  turnip  into  the  exact  shape  of  the 
fish,  fried  it  in  oil,  salted,  and  well  powdered  it  with  the  grains 
of  a  dozen  black  poppies ,  and  served  it  before  the  king.  Ilis 
majesty’s  taste  was  so  exquisitely  deceived,  that  he  praised  the 
root  to  his  guests  as  a  most  excellent  fish  ! 

The  Queen  of  Caria,  who  had  been  assisted  by  Alexander 
the  Great,  in  order  to  express  her  affectionate  regards,  sent  him 
every  day  a  number  of  excellent  dishes  and  a  handsome  dessert ; 
at  last  she  sent  to  him  some  of  her  best  cooks  and  bakers. 

Although  this  last  gift  was  rejected  by  Alexander,  it  was  none 
the  less  a  mark  of  high  favor,  and  indicates  the  value  set  upon 
these  personages  in  the  houses  of  the  opulent  and  noble. 

As  luxury  and  refinement  spread  from  Asia  into  Europe,  a 
fastidious  taste  in  eating  arose  among  the  Greeks,  and  with  them 
all  the  resources  of  the  cook  were  called  into  requisition. 

Cooks  were  hired  or  purchased  at  enormous  prices,  those  from 
Sicily  being  particularly  valued  for  their  great  skill.  Sparta 
alone  resisted  the  advance  of  luxury  and  the  introduction  of 
foreign  cooks.  On  one  occasion  her  magistrates  expelled  a 
Sicilian  cook  from  the  city,  observing,  “  that  the  aid  of  Mythicus 
was  unnecessary,  as  hunger  was  the  best  seasoning.” 

At  Athens,  the  chief  cook,  when  directed  to  prepare  a  feast, 
not  only  inquired  the  number  of  guests  expected,  but  also  xoho , 
and  wlmt  they  were,  that  he  might  adapt  the  dishes  to  their 
various  tastes.  Thus  he  is  represented  by  one  of  the  poets  as 
asking  : — 

Cook.  What  is  the  number  of  the  guests  invited 

To  this  fine  marriage  feast  ?  And  are  they  all 
Athenian  citizens,  or  are  there  some 
Foreigners  and  merchants? 


COOKS  AND  COOKERY. 


47 


B.  What  is  that  to  you, 

Since  you  are  but  the  cook  to  dress  the  dinner? 

Cook.  It  is  the  first  part  of  my  art,  0  father, 

To  know  the  tastes  of  those  who  are  to  eat. 

For  instance,  if  you  ask  a  Rhodian, 

Set  a  fine  shad  or  lebias  before  him, 

Well  boiled  and  hot,  the  moment  that  he  enters. 

That’s  what  he  likes ;  he  ’ll  like  it  better  so 
Than  if  you  add  a  cup  of  myrine  wine. 

B.  Well,  that  idea  of  shads  is  not  a  bad  one. 

Cook.  Then,  if  a  Byzantine  should  be  your  guest, 

Steep  all  you  offer  such  a  man  in  wormwood, 

And  let  your  dishes  taste  of  salt  and  garlic ; 

For  fish  are  all  so  plenty  in  their  country 
That  the  men  all  are  full  of  rheum  and  phlegm. 

If  some  guests  from  the  islands  come, 

Who  always  feed  on  fish  of  every  sort 

Fresh  from  the  sea,— such  men  like  not  salt  dishes, 

But  think  them  make-shifts.  Give  such  men  their  food 
Well  seasoned,  forced,  and  stuffed  with  choicest  spices. 
******* 

I  like  to  see  the  faces  of  the  guests, 

To  feed  them  as  their  age  and  station  claim ; 

Tf  my  young  royster  be  a  mettled  spark, 

Who  melts  an  acre  in  a  savory  dish 
To  charm  his  mistress,  scuttle-fish  and  crabs, 

And  all  the  shelly  race,  with  mixture  due 
Of  cordials  filtered,  exquisitely  rich ; 

To  a  philosopher — that  animal 
Voracious — solid  ham  and  bulky  feet ; 

But  to  th q  financier,  with  costly  niceness, 

Glociscus  rare,  or  rarity  more  rare. 

Insensible  the  palate  of  old  age ; 

More  difficult  than  the  soft  lips  of  youth 
To  move — I  put  much  mustard  in  their  dish ; 

With  quickening  sauces  make  the  stupor  keen, 

And  lash  the  lazy  blood  that  creeps  within. 

That  he  ruled  in  the  kitchen  with  a  full  consciousness  of  his 
own  importance,  is  thus  displayed  : — 


48  BREAKFAST. 

I  never  enter  in  my  kitchen,  I ! 

But  sit  apart,  and  in  the  cool,  direct, 

Observant  of  what  passes,  scullions  toil. 

- - — I  guide  the  mighty  whole, 

Explore  the  causes,  prophesy  the  dish. 

’Tis  thus  I  speak :  “  Leave,  leave  that  ponderous  ham ; 

Keep  up  the  fire,  and  lively  play  the  flame 
Beneath  those  lobster  patties  ;  ”  “  patient  here. 

Fixed  as  a  statue,  skim,  incessant  skim.’' 

“  Steep  well  this  small  glociscus*  in  its  sauce, 

And  boil  that  sea-dog  in  a  cullender.” 

“  This  eel  requires  more  salt  and  marjoram ;  ” 

“  Roast  well  that  piece  of  kid  on  either  side 
Equal;  ”  “that  sweet-bread  boil  not  over  much.” 

’Tis  thus,  my  friend,  I  make  the  concert  play. 
****** 

And  then  no  useless  dish  my  table  crowds. 

Harmonious  ranged,  and  consonantly  just, 

As  iu  a  concert  instruments  resound, 

My  ordered  dishes  in  their  courses  chime. 

Trials  of  Cooks. — That  the  office  of  cook  is  not  exempt  from 
its  peculiar  trials  is  certain ;  one  of  these  which  has  troubled 
many  a  modern  cook,  is  particularly  mentioned  in  ancient 
records. 

A  young  Greek  who  had  the  curiosity  to  visit  Antony’s 
kitchen,  saw  amongst  other  things  eight  wild  boars  roasting  whole 
at  the  same  time.  Upon  which  he  expressed  surprise  at  the 
great  number  of  guests  that  he  supposed  were  to  be  at  the  sup¬ 
per.  One  of  the  officers  could  not  forbear  laughing,  and  told  him 
that  there  were  not  so  many  as  he  imagined,  and  that  there 
would  not  be  above  a  dozen  in  all ;  but  that  it  was  necessary 
every  thing  should  be  served  in  a  degree  of  perfection,  which 
every  moment  ceases  and  spoils.  “  For,”  added  he,  “  it  often  hap¬ 
pens  that  Antony  will  order  his  supper,  and  a  moment  after  for¬ 
bid  it  to  be  served,  having  entered  into  some  conversation  that 


COOKS  AND  COOKERY.  49 

diverts  him.  For  that  reason  not  one  hut  many  suppers  are 
provided,  because  it  is  hard  to  know  at  what  time  he  will  think 
fit  to  have  it  set  on  the  table.” 

The  cooks  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon  I.  were  tried  in  the 
same  way,  by  their  master’s  becoming  absorbed  in  business  ;  and 
we  are  told  that  they  found  it  necessary  to  adopt  the  same  course  ; 
that  is,  when  the  dinner  was  half  cooked,  to  commence  prepara¬ 
tions  anew,  as  it  was  impossible  to  tell  at  what  hour  they  might 
be  called  to  serve. 

In  this  connection  wo  are  reminded  of  the  story  of  Vatel,  the 
French  cook,  who  destroyed  his  life  in  consequence  of  the  morti¬ 
fication  he  felt  at  some  deficiencies  in  an  entertainment  which  he 
had  directed. 

Madame  Sevigne  tells  us  that  Vatel  was  maitre  d’hotel  at 
Chantilly,  where  the  Prince  of  Conti  gave  a  grand  entertainment 
to  Louis  XJF.,  hi  1671.  There  were  twenty-five  tables  of  five 
courses  each,  besides  a  great  number  of  others,  for  accidental 
comers. 

It  is  not  strange  that  there  should  have  been  a  deficiency  of 
one  article  of  food,  and  we  are  told  that  two  of  the  tables  were 
deficient  in  le  roti. 

The  anxiety  which  had  pressed  so  heavily  on  Vatel,  that  he 
had  not  slept  for  twelve  nights,  made  him  exceedingly  mortified 
at  this  failure,  and  he  said  several  times  to  his  companion  Gour- 
ville,  that  he  had  lost  his  honor,  that  he  could  not  support  the 
mortification.  “  My  head  turns,  help  me  to  give  my  orders.” 
Gourville  assisted  him  all  he  could,  but  “  lo  roti”  was  ever  re¬ 
turning  to  his  mind.  At  last  Gourville  went  to  the  prince  and 
begged  him  to  speak  to  Vatel.  The  prince  came  and  said  to  him, 
“  All  went  well,  Vatel ;  the  supper  of  the  king  was  very  fine.” 
“  Monsieur,  your  kindness  overcomes  me  ;  I  know  that  the  roti 
failed  at  two  tables.”  The  prince  endeavored  to  encourage  him 
by  praise,  but  all  to  no  purpose. 

4 


50  BREAKFAST. 

At  four  o’clock  in  the  morning,  Vatel  went  out  while  all 
were  asleep,  and  made  inquiries  about  some  fish  which  lie  was 
expecting,  having  sent  orders  to  all  the  seaports  to  have  a  large 
quantity  sent  to  Chantilly.  The  purveyor  knew  nothing  of 
these  orders,  and  showing  a  small  number  said,  “  These  are  all 
we  have.”  Vatel  waited  some  time,  the  other  purveyors  did  not 
arrive,  and  he  believed  no  more  fish  would  be  brought.  His 
head  burned ;  he  found  Gourville  and  said,  “  I  cannot  survive 
this  mortification.  Gourville  laughed  at  him.  He  ascended  to 
his  chamber,  ran  his  sword  three  times  into  his  body,  and  fell 
dead.  Not  long  after,  the  fish  arrived  from  all  quarters  ;  the 
cooks  waited  in  vain  for  Vatel  to  distribute  them.  They  at  last 
forced  open  his  door,  and  he  was  found  drowned  in  his  blood. 

Rewards  to  Coolcs. — Cooks  have  on  various  occasions  been 
handsomely  rewarded  by  monarchs  for  their  skill  in  preparing 
some  favorite  dish,  or  for  having  presented  it  at  a  very  opportune 
time.  The  skill  of  a  Roman  cook  in  preparing  a  good  supper  so 
pleased  Mark  Antony  that  he  gave  him  the  house  of  a  Roman 
citizen.  William  the  Conqueror  granted  the  manor  of  Addington 
to  Tezlin  his  cook,  because  he  had  composed  a  dish  of  white  soup 
called  dilligrout,  which  especially  pleased  the  royal  palate. 

It  is  recorded  of  Henry  VIII.,  that  he  raised  a  servant  to  a 
considerable  dignity,  because  he  had  taken  care  to  have  a  roasted 
boar  prepared  for  his  majesty,  when  Henry  happened  to  be  in  a 
humor  of  feasting  on  one.  The  widow  of  a  Mr.  Cornwallis  was 
rewarded  by  the  gift  of  a  dissolved  priory  for  some  fine  puddings 
which  she  had  presented  his  majesty.  The  Emperor  Charles  V. 
visited  the  grave,  and  erected  a  monument  to  the  memory  of 
Benkels,  who  invented  the  process  for  preserving  the  fish  of  Hol¬ 
land  in  a  pickle. 

In  the  middle  ages  the  master  cook  and  the  provost  of  the 
cooks  in  the  king’s  household,  were  officers  of  dignity  and  emolu- 


COOKS  AND  COOKERY.  51 

ments,  and  the  king’s  gardener  was  often  a  clergyman  of  high 
rank.  The  king’s  bakers  and  brewers  in  Scotland  received 
hereditary  grants  of  land  for  their  services. 

The  rivalry  and  jealousy  which  so  generally  prevails  among 
members  of  the  same  profession  is  not  wanting  among  cooks, 
who  fully  verify  the  truth  of  the  adage  that  “  two  of  a  trade  can 
never  agree.”  Many  contests  have  taken  place  among  them,  in 
which  they  have  endeavored  to  outdo  each  other  in  the  variety 
and  costliness  of  their  dishes.  When  these  contests  have  occur¬ 
red  between  natives  of  different  countries,  more  than  ordinary 
feeling  is  aroused,  for  they  consider  their  national  as  well  as  per¬ 
sonal  honor  at  stake.  In  a  strife  between  an  English  and  a 
French  cook,  the  former  must  of  necessity  be  defeated,  since  the 
fertile  imagination  of  the  Frenchman  is  sure  to  invent  combina¬ 
tions  which  the  Englishman  had  never  dreamed  of.  On  one  of 
these  occasions  an  Englishman  resorted  to  another  mode  of 
defeating  his  antagonist  than  by  competing  with  him  in  the 
variety  of  his  dishes,  and  accomplished  by  his  wit,  what  he  could 
not  gain  by  his  skill. 

During  a  truce  between  England  and  France,  the  cook  of  a 
marshal  of  France  invited  the  Duke  of  Marlborough’s  cook  to  dine 
with  him ;  the  Frenchman  had  at  his  entertainment  all  the  ex¬ 
traordinary  kickshaws  which  the  fertile  imagination  of  his  coun¬ 
try’s  art  could  invent,  or  his  own  whims  produce ;  the  English¬ 
man  allowed  him  to  be  a  prodigious  master  in  the  culinary  pro¬ 
fession,  and  on  a  certain  day  invited  him  to  return  the  visit.  The 
day  arrived  and  the  guests  came ;  and  when  all  wrere  in  expectation 
of  a  master  stroke  in  giving  some  dishes  a  false  appearance,  or 
in  the  artful  seasoning  of  others,  there  was  brought  in  a  plain 
sirloin  of  beef,  and  a  plum  pudding.  After  a  short  surprise,  “  Sir,” 
said  the  Frenchman,  “  this  is  so  uncommon  a  dish  on  this  occa¬ 
sion,  that  I  did  not  expect  anything  like  it.”  To  which  the  other 


52  BREAKFAST. 

replied,  Monsieur,  this  is  a  dish  proper  for  every  Englishman 
to  he  proud  of ;  this  dish  has  carried  my  countrymen  twice 
through  France  already,  and  I  don’t  doubt  but  it  will  the  third 
time.” 

Cookery,  as  a  science,  has  employed  the  talents  of  Lord  Bacon, 
Drs.  Hunter,  Kitchener,  and  Count  Kumford,  and  many  of  the 
distinguished  men  of  France.  M.  Talleyrand,  the  Marquis  de 
Cussy,  M.  Brillat-Savarin,  and  others,  have  treated  of  it  at 
length.  They  invented  new  dishes,  some  of  which  are  still  fa¬ 
mous,  bearing  the  names  of  their  inventors.  Gastronomy,  or  the 
science  of  good  eating,  was  regarded  by  them  of  first  importance ; 
one  of  them,  M.  Savarin,  asserting,  “  that  the  destiny  of  nations 
depends  upon  the  manner  in  which  they  are  fed.”  Their  cooks 
were  noted  for  their  skill  in  their  profession,  and  for  the  high 
value  they  set  upon  it.  To  constantly  improve  and  progress  in 
the  art  was  their  aim  and  study.  Thus,  Careme,  the  well-known 
French  cook,  in  the  house  of  M.  de  Talleyrand,  says  in  his  Remi¬ 
niscences,  that  he  had  always  the  habit  of  noting  in  the  evening 
upon  his  return  home,  the  modifications  which  he  had  made  in  his 
work  during  the  preceding  day — “  With  pen  in  hand,  I  put  down 
my  reasons  for  so  doing.  This  accounts  for  my  progress  in  the 
art.  There  is  always  in  every  thing  a  way  which  is  at  the  mo¬ 
ment,  the  best  and  most  convenient ;  the  sagacity  of  ready  wit 
will  recognize  this.  I  was  working  in  the  house  of  the  Prince  de 
Talleyrand  in  1814,  when  the  Emperor  Alexander  arrived  in 
Paris.  Some  days  after,  I  was  sent  for,  and  I  followed  this  sove¬ 
reign  to  the  Elysee-Napoleon.  There  I  obtained  the  friendship 
and  protection  of  the  controlleur  of  his  house,  M.  Muller,  and 
under  his  direction  became  chef  des  cuisines  to  the  Emperor.  At 
this  period  of  my  life,  I  was  thrown  into  the  most  active  and  ex¬ 
tended  service,  yet  I  did  not  renounce  my  habit  of  writing  down 
every  evening  what  I  had  altered,  or  modified,  or  done  over  dur- 


COOKS  AKD  COOKERY.  5  b 

ing  the  day,  fixing  thereby  those  ideas  and  combinations  which 
would  have  otherwise  escaped  my  memory.” 

How  difficult  it  is  to  become  perfect  in  this  art,  according  to 
the  French  view  of  it,  we  may  perceive  from  the  remarks  of  the 
famous  cook,  Louis  Eustache  Ude,  upon  the  subject.  He  says : — 
“What  science  demands  more  study  than  cookery?  Every  man 
is  not  born  with  the  qualifications  necessary  to  constitute  a  good 
cook.  I  shall  demonstrate  the  difficulty  of  the  art,  by  offering  a 
few  observations  on  some  other  arts.  Music,  dancing,  fencing, 
painting  and  mechanics,  in  general,  possess  professors  under 
twenty  years  of  age,  whereas,  in  the  first  line  of  cooking,  pre-em¬ 
inence  never  occurs  under  thirty.  We  see  daily  at  concerts  and 
academies,  young  men  and  women  who  display  the  greatest  abili¬ 
ties  ;  but  in  our  line,  nothing  hut  the  most  consummate  experience 
can  elevate  a  man  to  the  rank  of  chief  professor.  Cookery  is  an 
art  appreciated  by  only  a  very  few  individuals,  and  which  requires, 
in  addition  to  a  most  diligent  and  studious  application,  no  small 
share  of  intellect,  and  the  strictest  sobriety  and  punctuality  ; — 
there  are  cooks,  and  cooks  as  there  are  painters ;  the  difficulty 
lies  in  finding  the  perfect  one ;  and  I  dare  assert,  that  the  noble¬ 
man  who  has  in  his  service  a  thorough  good  one,  ought  to  be  as 
proud  of  the  acquisition,  as  of  possessing  in  his  gallery  a  genu¬ 
ine  production  of  the  pencil  of  Rubens,  Raphael  or  Titian.” 

With  such  ideas  of  the  dignity  of  his  calling,  it  is  no  wonder 
that  the  French  cook  excels  those  of  all  other  nations,  and  that 
his  fame  is  world-wide.  He  esteems  it  important  to  society,  an 
honorable  vocation,  and  worthy  of  careful  attention, — consequent¬ 
ly  he  has  attained  excellence  in  it.  Other  nations  have  valued  it 
less,  and  therefore  neglected  it.  In  America,  where  the  knowl¬ 
edge  and  practice  of  it  is  almost  entirely  confined  to  woman,  it 
has  not  been  regarded  as  a  science,  or  as  requiring  any  but  ordi¬ 
nary  attention.  A  large  majority  of  the  cooks  Avork  on  from 
habit,  trusting  their  success  or  failure  to  luck ,  as  they  term  it.  In 


BREAKFAST. 


54 

any  other  calling,  they  would  concede  that  an  attention  to  rules 
and  principles  Avas  necessary  and  indispensable  to  a  proper  prac¬ 
tice  ;  why  not,  then,  in  cookery?  Valuable  as  experience  is,  it  is 
not  experience  alone  upon  which  success  depends ;  a  thorough 
and  careful  acquaintance  with  the  results  of  certain  mixtures,  the 
action  of  heat  upon  them,  chemical  affinities,  etc.,  early  acquired, 
would  prevent  many  a  lamentable  failure.  In  this  age,  when 
woman  claims  to  he  able  to  do  whatever  man  can  do  where  mere 
physical  strength  is  not  in  question,  would  it  not  he  well  for  her 
to  emulate  him  in  that  business  which  belongs  particularly  to  her 
province,  and  to  look  upon  it  in  a  larger  and  broader  sense.  If 
the  maxim  of  one  of  the  French  gastronomers  he  true,  “  Tell  me 
what  thou  eatest,  and  I  will  tell  thee  what  thou  art,”  how  largely 
may  the  provision  she  makes  for  her  household  affect  their  future 
pursuits  and  tastes.  Woman  is  peculiarly  fitted  to  excel  in  the  light 
and  delicate  cookery — “patisserie” — which  French  genius  has 
carried  to  such  perfection.  Her  delicate  hands  are  admirably 
adapted  to  the  moulding  of  beautiful  designs,  her  ready  wit,  quick 
to  discern  cause  and  effect,  and  her  cultivated  taste  to  make  every 
thing  harmonize  and  form  an  appropriate  whole. 

A  knowledge  of  cookery  is  useful  in  every  condition  of  life; 
since  misfortune,  exile,  shipwreck,  and  their  consequent  destitu¬ 
tion,  have  compelled  thousands  to  cook  and  serve  their  own  repasts. 
Even  royalty  itself  has  not  been  exempted  from  this  necessity. 
Charles  the  Second’s  long  wanderings  and  concealment,  led  him 
to  acquire  considerable  dexterity  in  preparing  his  dinner.  As  an 
instance  of  this,  it  is  related,  that  “After  his  concealment  in 
Boscobel  Wood  for  some  days,  during  which  time  he  was  supplied 
with  food  by  a  few  friends  whenever  they  could  safely  take  it  to 
him,  his  friend,  Colonel  Carlis,  took  him  to  his  house,  and  as  the 
king’s  appetite  was  pretty  keen  from  the  fasting  to  which  he  had 
submitted,  the  colonel  killed  a  sheep  privately ;  then  the  king 
took  a  knife  and  trencher,  and  from  a  leg  cut  some  of  the  mut- 


COOKS  AND  COOKERY.  55 

ton  into  collops,  pricked  them  with  the  knife-point,  called  for  a 
frying-pan  and  butter,  and  fried  them  himself,  of  which  he  ate 
heartily ;  the  colonel  waiting  upon  him,  and  assisting  him.  After¬ 
wards,  in  the  king’s  prosperous  days,  he  used  jokingly  to  call  the 
circumstance  to  mind,  and  propose  it  as  a  problem,  whether  he  or 
the  colonel  were  the  master-cook  at  Boscobel — and  the  supremacy 
was  always  by  right  adjudged  to  his  majesty.” 

A  somewhat  different  result  awaited  the  efforts  of  the  Prince 
de  Conde,  who,  accompanied  by  a  few  friends,  was  once  traversing 
France  in  disguise,  and  reaching  a  little  public-house  some  hours 
after  nightfall,  he  volunteered  to  cook  an  omelette  for  the  whole 
party.  “  The  hand,  however,  which  could  wield  the  truncheon 
with  such  effect,  proved  somewhat  too  violent  for  the  frying-pan, 
and  in  the  attempt  to  turn  the  omelette,  he  threw  the  whole  his¬ 
sing  mass  into  the  fire.” — James’s  Life  of  Louis  XIV. 

We  will  close  our  remarks  upon  cooks  and  their  art,  by  giving 
a  slight  notice  of  one  who  employed  his  skill  in  his  profession  to 
the  noble  purpose  of  benefiting  his  fellow-men,  and  whose  recent 
death  has  caused  much  regret  in  the  English  and  French  nations, — 
M.  Alexis  Soyer,  so  well  known  at  the  present  day  for  his  talents 
as  chef  de  cuisine,  and  also  for  his  works  on  Gastronomy.  At  the 
time  of  the  famine  in  Ireland,  in  1847,  he  opened  a  kitchen  in 
the  Square,  at  Dublin,  where  he  fed  sometimes  four  or  five  thou¬ 
sand  poor  people  in  a  day  with  excellent  food,  prepared  at  a  mod¬ 
erate  cost.  During  the  recent  Avar  with  Russia,  when  the  sick 
and  wounded  of  the  allied  armies  Avere  suffering  greatly  both  in 
the  hospitals  at  Scutari  and  in  the  Crimea,  for  want  of  proper 
food,  M.  Soyer  offered  his  services  gratuitously  to  the  British  Gov¬ 
ernment,  as  superintendent  of  the  culinary  department ;  Avhich, 
being  accepted,  he  proceeded  immediately  to  the  seat  of  Avar,  and 
rendered  most  valuable  aid  to  the  suffering  armies.  When  he 
arrived  at  the  Scutari  hospitals,  and  inspected  the  departments, 
he  found  every  thing  connected  Avith  the  kitchens  ill  managed, 


56  BREAKFAST. 

disorderly,  and  exceptionable.  A  general  scramble  took  place 
among  the  soldiers  at  dinner-time,  for  tbe  soup  and  meat,  which 
were  then  distributed.  These  were  not  of  the  right  quality,  and 
the  vegetables  were  all  stale.  Within  a  week  M.  Soyer  corrected 
these  evils,  showing  the  men  how  to  make  good  soups  out  of  ma¬ 
terials  before  thrown  away,  and  introducing  order  in  the  eating 
arrangements.  He  had  the  cooking  confined  to  one  spacious 
room,  that  he  might  superintend  the  whole  personally.  He  wrote 
receipts  for  the  cooks,  and  so  trained  them  as  to  make  all  profi¬ 
cients  in  their  department.  At  Balaklava  he  performed  the  same 
services,  for  the  same  difficulties  existed  here.  He  had  invented 
a  new  camp-cooking  stove,  and  upon  its  introduction,  he  sent  in¬ 
vitations  to  the  chief  officers  of  the  allied  armies,  to  visit,  upon  a 
certain  day,  his  department,  to  witness  the  working  of  the  stoves. 
They  came  about  three  o’clock  ;  found  the  stoves  placed  in  the 
open  air  in  the  form  of  a  semi-circle,  and  so  arranged  that  al¬ 
though  the  cooking  was  going  on,  no  fire  could  be  seen  except  by 
raising  the  lids. 

This  was  a  very  important  feature,  since  no  light  must  be 
seen  when  the  men  used  the  stoves  in  the  trenches.  The  bill  of 
fare  on  this  occasion  consisted  of  plain-boiled  salt  beef;  the  same 
with  dumplings  ;  plain-boiled  salt  pork ;  the  same  with  peas-pud- 
ding  ;  stewed  salt  pork  and  beef  with  rice  ;  French  pot-au-feu  ; 
stewed  fresh  beef  with  potatoes;  stewed  mutton  Avith  haricot 
beans ;  ox-cheek  and  ox-feet  soups  ;  Scotch  mutton-broth ;  and 
curry,  made  Avith  fresh  and  salt  beef.  Thus  there  Avere  quite  a 
variety  of  messes  prepared  out  of  the  ordinary  rations  of  the  sol¬ 
diers,  introducing  some  ingredients  Avhich  could  be  added  Avithout 
any  increased  expense,  yet  Avhich  Avould  make  the  food  more  pal¬ 
atable  and  more  healthy.  All  the  officers  tasted  of  the  different 
kinds  of  food,  and  pronounced  them  excellent,  Avhile  the  chef  de 
cuisine  explained  to  them  the  construction  of  his  apparatus  and  its 
mode  of  operation.  It  Avas  very  simple,  cleanly  and  economical. 


COOKS  AND  COOKERY.  5 1 

There  was  no  difficulty  in  regulating  the  heat  for  the  different 
processes  of  cooking.  The  commanders  were  present,  accompa¬ 
nied  by  a  numerous  staff ;  all  evinced  a  hearty  approbation,  and 
from  this  time  the  care  of  the  culinary  department  was  fairly  in 
the  hands  of  M.  Soyer.  This  exhibition  took  place  about  a 
month  before  the  capture  of  Sebastopol.  M.  Soyer  died  in  the 
summer  of  1857,  much  regretted  by  the  French  nation,  and  high¬ 
ly  esteemed  by  the  English  ;  he  had  dignified  his  calling  by  his 
faithful  and  noble  discharge  of  its  duties,  and  may  justly  be  re¬ 
garded  as  a  benefactor  to  his  fellow-men. 


. 


PART  II. 

DINNER. 


CONTENTS. 

8.  Dessert — Desserts  of  the  Olden 
Time— Pies,  Puddings,  Creams, 
and  Jellies. 

9.  Table  Habits  and  Peculiar 
Dishes  of  various  Nations. 

10.  Dinners,  Peasts,  etc.,  of  Va¬ 
rious  Persons. 


1.  Dinner  Considered. 

2.  Soup. 

3.  Fish. 

4.  Meats. 

5.  Vegetables. 

6.  Salads  and  Pickles. 

7.  Drinks. 


/ 


■ 


*' 


DINNER. 

Ashore,  and  Sidney's  copse, 

To  crown  thy  open  table,  doth  provido 
The  purpled  pheasant  with  the  speckled  side. 

The  painted  partridge  lies  in  every  field, 

And  for  thy  mess  is  willing  to  he  killed. 

And  if  the  high-swollen  Medway  fail  thy  dish, 

Thou  hast  thy  ponds  that  pay  the  tribute  fish — 

Fat,  aged  carps,  that  run  into  thy  net, 

And  pikes,  now  weary  their  own  kind  to  eat, 

As  loth  the  second  draught  a  cast  to  stay, 

Officiously  at  first  themselves  betray ; 

Bright  eels  that  emulate  them,  and  leap  on  land 
Before  the  fisher,  or  into  his  hand. 

Thou  hast  thy  orchard  fruit,  thy  garden  flowers, 

Fresh  as  the  air,  and  new  as  are  the  hours ; 

The  early  cherry,  with  the  later  plum, 

Fig,  grape,  and  quince,  each  in  his  time  doth  come ; 

The  blushing  apricot  and  woolly  peach 
Hang  on  thy  walls,  that  every  child  may  reach. 

Ben  Jonson’s  Lines  to  Penhurst, 

We  will  now  proceed  to  discuss  that  meal  which  has  ever  much 
engrossed  the  attention  of  men,  and  which  has  been  considered 
among  all  people  the  chief  meal  of  the  day ;  viz.,  the  dinner. 
Apart  from  its  apparent  use,  that  of  appeasing  the  wants  of  hun¬ 
ger,  it  has  served  in  its  day  various  other  ends.  The  policy  of 
states  has  often  been  changed,  by  an  appropriate,  an  elegant, 
and  a  well-executed  dinner.  The  suit  of  many  a  courtier  has 


DINNER. 


62 

been  forwarded  by  its  timely  assistance,  and  through  a  well- 
seasoned  and  well-relished  dinner  has  many  a  feud  been  settled, 
and  many  a  lawsuit  been  brought  to  a  happy  conclusion.  “  Make 
ready,”  said  Joseph  to  his  steward  when  the  Israelitish  wanderers 
appeared  at  his  court,  “  make  ready,  for  these  men  shall  dine  with 
me  at  noon.”  When  Esther  came  forth  in  regal  pomp  to  solicit 
mercy  and  protection  for  her  countrymen,  she  invited  the  king 
and  Haman  to  dinner.  The  celebrated  Mrs.  Howard  (Lad}' 
Suffolk)  sold  her  own  beautiful  hair  in  order  to  enable  her  hus¬ 
band,  then  in  very  narrow  circumstances,  to  give  a  dinner  of 
'policy  to  a  great  man. 

In  all  fashionable  life,  whether  in  London,  Paris,  Madrid, 
Vienna,  Washington,  or  New  York,  this  meal  is  the  one  above 
all  others,  to  which  is  invited  the  distinguished  stranger,  or  the 
beloved  friend. 

To  this  meal,  kings  and  nobles,  knights  and  squires,  laymen 
and  priests,  have  each  and  all  attached  a  high  importance. 
“  How  shall  we  dine  to-day  ?  ”  is  the  first  thought  in  every 
rank  of  life,  and  of  human  beings  everywhere.  It  is  alike 
the  first  thought  of  the  wealthy  voluptuary,  and  the  indi¬ 
gent  laborer.  In  obtaining  this  universal  object  of  desire,  a 
dinner ,  an  infinite  variety  of  tastes  has  been  displayed,  and  an 
infinite  variety  of  dishes  invented.  Earth,  sea,  and  air,  have 
been  ransacked  to  gratify  the  eager,  yet  ever-changing  appetite 
of  man. 

And  since  in  humble  as  well  as  fashionable  life  the  universal 
cry  is  not  only  how  shall  I  dine  ?  but  hoiv  shall  I  dine  well  ?  it  is 
important  that  the  best  way  to  accomplish  this  end  be  ascer¬ 
tained. 

To  exercise  a  personal  supervision  over  her  dinner  is  not  un¬ 
worthy  of  the  most  accomplished  or  learned  woman,  since  she 
thereby  insures  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  her  family,  and  con¬ 
sequently  her  own.  Lady  Mary  Wortley  Montague,  herself- a 


DINNER.  03 

learned  woman,  says  well,  “  that  the  most  trivial  concerns  of 
economy  become  noble  and  elegant  when  exalted  by  sentiments 
of  affection  ;  to  prepare  a  meal  is  not  merely  giving  orders  to  my 
cook,  it  is  an  amusement  to  regale  the  object  I  doat  on.”  Lady 
Hardwick,  the  wife  of  the  Lord  Chancellor,  so  carefully  regarded 
the  concerns  of  her  household,  that  she  was  able  to  say  that  “  un¬ 
certain  as  was  the  time  of  the  Lord  Chancellor’s  dining,  and  the 
company  that  would  attend  him,  yet  if  it  should  happen  that  he 
brought  with  him  an  ambassador,  or  person  of  the  highest  rank, 
he  never  found  a  dinner  or  supper  to  be  ashamed  of.” 

Mrs.  Piozzi  relates  that  Dr.  Johnson  used  often  to  say  in  her 
hearing,  “  that  wherever  the  dinner  is  ill  got  up,  there  is  poverty, 
or  there  is  avarice,  or  there  is  stupidity  ;  in  short,  the  family  is 
somehow  grossly  wrong ;  for  a  man  seldom  thinks  with  more 
earnestness  of  any  thing  than  of  his  dinner  ;  and  if  he  cannot  get 
that  well  dressed,  he  should  be  suspected  of  inaccuracy  in  other 
things”  One  day  when  he  was  speaking  upon  the  subject,  Mrs. 
Piozzi  asked  him  if  he  ever  huffed  his  wife  about  his  dinner. 
“  So  often,”  replied  he,  “  that  at  last  she  called  to  me  when  about 
to  say  grace,  and  said,  ‘  Nay,  hold,  Mr.  Johnson,  do  not  make  a 
farce  of  thanking  God  for  a  dinner  which  in  a  few  minutes  you 
will  pronounce  not  eatable.’  ” 

We  cannot  wonder  at  the  wrath  of  the  citizen,  when  returning 
to  his  home  punctually  at  the  dinner  hour,  he  finds  the  ample 
materials  which  he  has  furnished,  rendered  uneatable  by  neglect 
and  bad  cookery ;  indignation  and  wrath  are  but  usual  and 
natural  consequences,  when  the  expectant  thus  finds,  that  instead 
of  good  cheer,  he  must  dine  with  “  Michael  Hodge,”  or  firev. 1M 
the  “  Bermecide.”  If  such  an  occurrence,  however,  be  only  occa¬ 
sional  in  his  household,  an  exception,  and  not  the  rule,  let  him  be 
temperate  in  his  wrath  ;  reflecting  that  an  untoward  accident, 
an  unexpected  interruption,  or  some  other  unavoidable  circum 
stance,  may  have  been  the  cause  of  the  failure ;  causes  which  may 


64  DINNER. 

have  been  as  much  beyond  control,  as  those  which  have  defeated 
many  of  his  own  well-devised  plans  for  increasing  his  worldly 
goods,  or  for  obtaining  the  honors  and  emoluments  of  political 
preferment. 

The  Dinner  Hour. — Although  among  the  business  and  labor¬ 
ing  classes  of  community,  the  hour  for  dining  has  always  been 
at  mid-day ,  among  the  circles  of  fashion  there  have  been  many 
changes  respecting  it ;  the  hour  which  in  one  period  or  century 
was  considered  highly  fashionable,  becoming  in  another  period 
vulgar,  and  changed  for  another.  Thus  in  France  in  the  thirteenth 
century,  nine  o’clock  was  the  dinner  hour,  of  which  there  is  a  say¬ 
ing  extant : — 

“  Lever  a  cinq,  diner  a  neuf, 

Souper  a  cinq,  coucher  a  neuf.” 

Ten  was  the  appointed  time  a  century  later,  at  which  dinners 
were  served  both  in  France  and  England.  In  the  fifteenth  and 
sixteenth  centuries,  eleven  was  the  fashionable  hour.  The  hour 
continued  to  advance,  till  in  Addison’s  time,  two  o’clock  is  men¬ 
tioned.  Thirty  years  later,  it  was  three,  and  so  it  has  advanced 
until  now  the  fashionable  dinner  is  partaken  of  at  any  of  the 
hours  between  Jive  and  nine  ;  the  moderns  imitating  in  this  re¬ 
spect  the  ancients,  who  took  their  second  meal  at  evening. 

The  fashionable  world  in  thus  appointing  so  late  an  hour  for 
their  dinner,  have  been  obliged  to  recognize  another  meal,  to  be 
eaten  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  which,  though  it  is  entitled 
“  luncheon ,”  is  nothing  less  than  an  unceremonious  dinner.  Mrs. 
Stowe  speaks  of  it  as  such  when  alluding  to  a  lunch  at  the  Duch¬ 
ess  of  Sutherland’s.  She  says,  “  The  dinner  which  comes  after  it  at 
eight  or  nine  in  the  evening,  is  m  comparison  only  a  ceremonial 
proceeding.  At  lunch,  every  thing  is  placed  upon  the  table  at 
once,  and  ladies  sit  down  without  removing  their  hats  ;  children 
are  also  admitted  at  the  table  even  in  the  presence  of  company.” 


DINNER. 


G5 

Willis,  in  speaking  of  lunch  in  England,  says,  “  At  two  o’clock,  a 
dish  or  two  of  hot  game,  and  a  profusion  of  cold  meats  were  set 
on  the  small  tables  in  the  dining-room,  and  everybody  came  in 
for  a  lounging  half  meal,  which  occupied  perhaps  an  hour.” 

Dining  Halls. — Among  the  luxuries  of  Lucullus  are  men¬ 
tioned  his  various  banqueting-rooms,  each  of  which  was  named 
after  one  of  the  gods.  The  entertainments  which  he  gave  were 
•  different  in  kind,  and  to  each  apartment  was  assigned  its  peculiar 
feast,  so  that  he  had  only  to  say  to  his  servants  that  ho  would  dine 
in  a  certain  banqueting-room,  and  they  understood  perfectly  what 
they  were  to  prepare  for  the  entertainment.  Cicero  and  Pompey 
attempted  on  one  occasion  to  surprise  him,  and  were  astonished 
at  the  costliness  of  a  feast  which  had  been  prepared  upon  the  sim¬ 
ple  remark  of  Lucullus  to  his  servant  that  he  would  sup  in  the 
hall  of  “  Apollo.”  The  Emperor  Claudius  named  one  of  his 
banqueting-halls,  which  was  of  rare  splendor,  after  Mercury. 

The  magnificence  of  Nero  in  this  respect,  exceeded  all  others. 
In  his  palace  called  the  golden  house ,  the  whole  building  being 
covered  with  gold,  enriched  with  pearl  and  precious  stones,  he 
caused  the  roof  of  one  of  the  banqueting-rooms  to  resemble  the 
firmament,  both  in  figure  and  motion,  turning  incessantly  about? 
night  and  day,  exhibiting  new  appearances  as  the  different  courses 
in  the  feast  were  removed.  By  means  of  this  motion,  also,  the 
attendants  could  at  pleasure  make  it  rain  down  a  variety  of  sweet 
waters  or  liquid  perfumes.  At  one  feast  alone,  100,000  crowns 
were  expended  in  these  perfumed  waters. 

In  striking  contrast  with  these  magnificent  Roman  banquet¬ 
ing-rooms,  we  will  mention  the  dining-halls  of  our  English  ances¬ 
tors  in  the  feudal  days.  The  grand  hall  of  the  castle  was  used 
entirely  as  the  dining  apartment,  ornamented  only  in  its  severe 
Gothic  style,  and  hung  about  with  armor  and  various  warlike 
weapons,  as  well  as  trophies  of  victory  in  the  chase.  In  some 
5 


DINNER. 


66 

of  the  princely  mansions  built  in  Henry  VIII.’s  reign,  there  is  a 
gallery  in  the  great  hall,  which  extends  its  whole  length,  in  which 
the  lord  and  lady  of  the  mansion,  and  their  guests,  assembled  to 
witness  the  merry-makings  of  their  retainers  below.  Here  the 
mumming,  the  loaf  stealing,  and  other  Christmas  sports  were  per¬ 
formed.  The  hearth  was  commonly  in  the  middle  ;  hence  the 
saying,  “  Round  about  our  coal  fire.”  The  floors  of  these  halls 
were  of  clay,  strewn  with  rushes,  under  which  lay  sometimes  for 
a  long  time  a  collection  of  beer,  grease,  fragments  from  the  table, 
bones,  etc.  Even  amongst  the  nobility,  who  were  extravagant  in 
dress,  excessive  in  banquets,  and  expensive  in  their  trains  of 
attendants,  were  found  the  same  negligence  and  want  of  neatness 
in  this  particular.  A  large  wooden  knife,  called  the  “  voiding 
knife,”  was  used  after  every  meal  to  scrape  from  the  table  the 
bones,  etc.,  which  remained  after  eating,  all  of  which  refuse  fell 
upon  the  floor  to  be  trodden  among  the  rushes,  or  scrambled  for 
by  the  dogs.  The  practice  of  strewing  the  floor  with  rushes  is 
alluded  to  in  the  diary  of  Margery,  daughter  of  Sir  Thomas  More. 

“  Gonellius  ask’t  leave  to  see  Erasmus,  his  signet  ring,  which 
he  handed  down  to  him.  In  passing  it  back, William,  who  was 
occupied  in  carving  a  crane,  handed  it  soe  negligentlie,  that  it  fell 
to  ye  ground.  I  never  saw  such  a  face  as  Erasmus  made  when 
’twas  picked  out  from  ye  rushes  !  And  yet  ours  are  renewed 
almost  daylie,  which  manie  think  over  nice.” 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  hall  was  a  raised  floor,  which  was 
sometimes  carpeted,  forming  an  apartment  a  little  distinct 
from  the  main  hall ;  and  at  the  table  which  crossed  the  dais,  as 
this  place  was  called,  were  seated  the  lord,  his  family  and 
chief  guests,  while  the  inferiors  and  dependents  ate  at  the  lower 
table,  which  extended  the  length  of  the  hall. 

A  cistern  was  formerly  an  important  part  of  the  furniture  of 
a  well-appointed  dining-hall ;  the  plates  were  rinsed  in  it  when 
necessary  during  the  meal.  A  magnificent  silver  cistern  is  still 

-  ■  — J 


DINNER.  67 

preserved  in  the  dining-room  of  Burghley  House,  the  seat  of  the 
Marquis  of  Exeter.  Pepys  mentions  in  his  diary,  that  he  pur¬ 
chased  a  pewter  cistern  for  his  dining-room. 

When  the  Italian  custom  of  using  the  hall  as  a  vestibule  came 
into  practice  in  England,  it  ceased  to  serve  as  a  dining  apartment ; 
and  from  that  time  a  particular  room  in  the  mansion  was  set 
apart  for  this  use. 

Dining  Tables. — The  forms  of  tables  have  varied  as  fashion, 
necessity,  convenience,  or  caprice  dictated.  The  tables  of  the 
ancients  were  arranged  either  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle  or  three 
sides  of  a  square  ;  around  the  outside  of  which  the  guests  reclined 
upon  couches,  leaving  the  space  within  open  to  the  servants. 

The  English  Barons  of  feudal  days  had  their  tables  in  the 
form  of  the  letter  T.  King  Arthur’s  famous  “  round  table  ”  is 
said  to  have  been  chosen  that  his  knights  might  not  quarrel  for 
precedence  ;  and  Louis  XV.,  of  France,  invented  a  round  table, 
the  centre  of  which  descended  by  machinery  to  a  lower  floor,  so 
that  supper  might  be  served  and  removed  without  the  presence 
of  servants. 

We  have  at  the  present  day,  the  square,  the  oblong,  the  oval, 
the  round,  and  the  extension  table,  all  of  which  are  approved, 
though  the  three  latter  are  esteemed  the  most  elegant.  Small 
lacquered  tables,  about  a  foot  in  height,  are  used  among  the 
Japanese,  as  they  do  not  sit  on  chairs,  but  crouch  upon  the  floor. 
The  tables  of  the  Chinese  shine  with  a  beautiful  varnish,  and  are 
covered  with  silk  carpets  very  elegantly  worked. 

The  Turks  use  no  tables  when  eating,  but  place  a  small  stool 
in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  upon  which  a  large  tray  with  the  eat¬ 
ables  is  set.  They  seat  themselves  around  it,  lifting  up  a  large 
napkin  which  is  upon  the  stool,  and  spreading  a  part  of  it  over 
their  laps  as  they  draw  near  it. 

We  cannot  refrain  from  mentioning  what  Pliny  describes  as 


DINNER. 


68 

his  table,  when  supping  in  the  garden  of  his  Tuscan  villa.  “  At 
the  upper  end  is  an  alcove  of  white  marble,  shaded  with  vines,  sup¬ 
ported  by  four  small  Carystian  pillars.  From  the  bench,  or 
triclinium,  (a  species  of  couch  on  which  the  Romans  reclined  to 
eat,)  the  water,  gushing  through  several  little  pipes,  as  if  it  were 
pressed  out  by  the  weight  of  the  persons  who  repose  upon  it,  falls 
into  a  stone  cistern  underneath,  whence  it  is  received  into  a  fine, 
polished  marble  basin,  so  artfully  contrived  that  it  is  always  full 
without  ever  overflowing.  When  I  sup  here,  this  basin  serves 
for  a  table ,  the  largest  sort  of  dishes  being  placed  around  the 
margin,  while  the  smaller  ones  swim  about  in  the  form  of  little 
vessels  and  waterfowls.” 

The  Dinner  Party. — To  dine  well  in  private,  at  home,  there 
are  a  few  requisites,  among  which  we  will  name  as  foremost,  that 
the  meats  be  well  cooked  and  well  served,  the  accompanying 
dishes  be  appropriate  to  the  meats,  that  all  be  served  with  neat¬ 
ness  and  care,  and  particularly  that  all  be  served  hot.  Also  that 
the  dinner  be  punctual  to  the  hour ;  and  last,  not  least ,  that  a  spirit 
of  love  and  harmony  prevail  among  the  members  of  the  household. 

In  the  receipts  which  appear  in  ensuing  chapters  of  this  work, 
we  have  given  directions  for  the  cooking  of  the  various  dishes  in¬ 
cluded  in  dinner,  after  the  manner  generally  agreeable  to  the 
English  and  American  taste.  An  attention  to  these  rules  will 
enable  a  private  family  to  dine  well  always. 

To  give  a  dinner  party ,  however,  or  to  dine  well  in  company , 
requires  many  more  essentials.  There  must  be  added  an  agree¬ 
able  and  well-adapted  company  of  guests,  ease  and  confidence  on 
the  part  of  the  host  and  hostess,  well  trained  and  experienced 
servants,  a  spacious  dining-room,  and  ample  means  to  purchase 
the  rarities  and  delicacies  of  the  season.  To  combine  all  these 
essentials  is  a  somewhat  difficult  undertaking,  and  therefore  to 
give  what  is  called  a  stylish  dinner  in  fashionable  life,  is  one  of 


DINNER.  69 

the  greatest  trials  to  an  inexperienced  housekeeper.  It  is  folly  on 
her  part,  and  great  want  of  consideration  in  her  husband,  to 
undertake  it ;  for  mortification  and  failure  are  sure  to  be  the 
result.  An  unpretending  dinner,  however,  she  may  give,  in  which, 
consulting  the  means  at  her  command,  she  should  aim  at  nothing 
which  she  does  not  fully  understand,  and  which  she  cannot  do  with 
perfect  confidence  in  its  success  ;  particularly  regarding  the  old 
rule  among  cooks,  never  to  try  a  new  dish  when  company  is  ex- 
.  pected.  Every  arrangement  which  requires  her  personal  atten¬ 
tion,  should  be  made  at  an  early  hour,  that  she  be  not  anxious  and 
care-worn  when  the  dinner  hour  arrives ;  for  the  cheerful  welcome 
she  is  to  give  to  her  guests,  is  no  insignificant  part  of  the  enter¬ 
tainment. 

Although,  as  we  have  before  observed,  it  is  difficult  to  combine 
all  the  essentials  required  for  an  elegant  and  agreeable  dinner 
party ,  yet  as  there  are  persons  who  have  it  in  their  power  to  ac¬ 
complish  this,  we  shall  consider  it  in  some  of  those  particulars 
which  are  necessary  for  success,  premising,  however,  that  there 
must  be  first,  experience  and  familiarity  with  the  forms  and 
usages  of  society. 

One  of  the  first  points  of  importance  is  a  judicious  selection 
of  guests.  “  Gather  at  your  table  only  such  persons  as  can  sym¬ 
pathize  in  thought  and  feeling,”  was  a  saying  of  M.  De  Cussy, 
who  fully  understood  the  art  of  making  his  dinners  attractive. 
Select  your  guests  with  a  view  to  the  general  pleasure ;  bringing 
together  those  who  wish  to  become  acquainted, — who  will  be 
agreeable  to  each  other,  and  agree  in  taste  and  sentiment.  If  you 
neglect  this  rule,  you  will  be  unable  to  inspire  the  guests  with 
cheerfulness,  conversation  will  bo  restrained,  or  disagreeable 
differences  of  opinion  will  arise  which  may  mar  all  the  pleasure 
of  the  company.  An  English  writer  says  : — 

“  When  you  invito  company,  take  care  that  no  more  eager 
talkers  are  introduced,  than  are  absolutely  necessary  to  prevent 


DINNER. 


70 

conversation  from  flagging.  One  to  every  six  or  eight  persons 
is  the  utmost  that  can  safely  be  allowed.  It  is  necessary,  how 
ever,  both  that  one  or  two  good  conversationists  should  be  at 
every  party,  and  that  the  strain  of  the  conversation  should  not  be 
allowed  to  become  too  tame.  In  all  invited  parties,  eight  of  every 
ten  persons  are  disposed  to  hold  their  peace,  or  to  confine  them¬ 
selves  to  monosyllabic  answers  to  commonplace  inquiries.  It  is 
necessary,  therefore,  that  there  should  be  some  who  can  speak, 
and  that  fluently,  if  not  entertainingly,  only  not  too  many.” 

Boswell  once  complained  to  Dr.  Johnson  of  having  dined  at 
a  splendid  table,  without  hearing  one  sentence  of  conversation 
worthy  to  be  remembered.  “  Sir,”  said  Johnson,  “  there  seldom 
is  any  such  conversation.”  “  Then  why  meet  at  table  ?  ”  asked 
Boswell.  “  Why,”  answered  Johnson,  “  to  eat  and  drink  to 
gether,  and  to  promote  kindness  ;  and  this,  sir,  is  better  done 
where  there  is  no  conversation  ;  for  where  there  is,  people  differ 
in  opinion,  and  get  into  a  bad  humor ;  or  some  of  the  company 
who  are  not  capable  of  such  conversation,  are  left  out,  and  feel 
themselves  uneasy.”  Johnson  ate  enormously,  and  did  not  like 
to  be  interrupted  in  the  enjoyment  of  it,  and  being  very  rough 
and  churlish  to  those  who  differed  from  him  upon  any  subject,  he 
had  often  in  his  own  case  perceived  that  the  harmony  of  the 
company  was  destroyed  by  the  discussions.  To  follow  out  his 
idea,  however,  would  convert  an  agreeable  occasion  for  pleasant 
intercourse  into  one  of  those 

“  Dinners  of  form  I  vote  a  bore, 

Where  folks  who  never  met  before, 

And  care  not  if  they  ne’er  meet  more, 

Are  brought  together: 

Crammed  close  as  mackerel  in  their  places, 

They  eat  with  Cliesterfieldian  graces, 

Drink  healths,  and  talk  with  sapient  faces 
About  the  weather.” 

The  tastes  and  humors  of  the  guests  must  also  be  considered 


DINNER. 


71 

as  far  as  possible  ;  for  these  are  numerous  and  vary  in  kind  and 
degree. 

For  wealthy  palates  there  be  that  scout 

What  is  in  season  for  what  is  out, 

And  prefer  all  precocious  savor ; 

For  instance,  early  green  peas,  of  the  sort 

That  costs  some  four  or  five  guineas  a  quart, 

Where  the  mint  is  the  principal  flavor. 

Hood 

One  loves  the  pheasant’s  wing,  and  one  the  leg ; 

The  vulgar  boil,  the  learned  roast  an  egg ; 

Hard  task,  to  hit  the  palates  of  such  guests, 

When  Oldfield  loves  what  Dartineuf  detests. 

Pope. 

Gorgonious  sits,  abdominous  and  wan, 

Like  a  fat  squab  upon  a  Chinese  fan  ; 

He  snuffs  far  off  the  anticipated  joy; 

Turtle  and  venison  all  his  thoughts  employ. 

COWPER. 

Some  fretful  tempers  wince  at  every  touch ; 

You  always  do  too  little  or  too  much ; 

Serve  him  with  venison,  he  chooses  fish ; 

With  sole,  that’s  just  the  sort  he  would  not  wish ; 

He  takes  what  he  at  first  professed  to  loathe, 

And  in  due  time  feeds  heartily  on  both. 

Cowper. 

Lord  Byron  was  one  of  these  capricious  guests ;  for  when 
dining  on  one  occasion  at  Mr.  Rogers’  to  make  a  reconciliation 
with  Thomas  Moore,  “  neither  meat,  fish  nor  wine  would  he 
touch  ;  and  of  biscuits  and  soda  water  which  ho  asked  for,  there 
had  been  unluckily  no  provision.  He  professed,  however,  to  be 
equally  well  pleased  with  potatoes  and  vinegar ;  and  of  these 
meagre  materials  contrived  to  make  a  hearty  dinner.  The  cause 
of  Byron’s  caprice  was  his  fear  of  becoming  too  corpulent.” 

A  second  important  consideration,  and  one  without  which  no 
dinner  can  pass  off  well,  is  to  have  well  trained,  experienced  and 


72  DINNER. 

reliable  servants.  Do  not  attempt  a  dinner  unless  you  have  at 
your  command,  servants  who  understand  every  particular  of 
their  business  ;  a  cook  upon  whom  you  can  rely,  and  table  ser¬ 
vants  who  know  the  proper  place  for  every  thing,  and  how  to 
bring  in  each  course  quietly  and  in  order.  Where  your  own 
servants  are  well  trained,  they  will  perform  your  wishes  much 
oetter  than  any  aid  which  you  may  call  in  for  the  occasion  ;  for 
the  new  comers,  even  if  you  be  so  fortunate  as  to  get  those  who 
are  fully  competent  and  understand  all  you  wish  to  have  done, 
may  not  act  in  concert  with  your  regular  domestics,  and  thus 
may  cause  you  much  anxiety,  if  not  confusion.  Foreign  aid,  too, 
is  difficult  to  be  obtained  just  when  you  are  most  in  need  of  it, 
and  often  costs  you  much  time  and  strength.  Pepys  in  his 
“  Diary,”  tells  us  of  his  efforts  in  search  of  a  cook  when  about 
to  have  a  company  of  lords  and  ladies  to  dinner,  which  is  a  fair  rep¬ 
resentation  of  the  same  difficulties  now.  “  To  Mrs.  Turner’s  and 
did  get  her  to  go  along  with  me  to  buy  some  new  pewter  against 
to-morrow ;  and  thence  to  White  Hall  to  have  got  a  cook  of 
her  acquaintance,  the  best  in  England,  as  she  says.  But  after  we 
had  with  much  ado  found  him,  he  could  not  come,  nor  was  the 
gentleman  in  town  whom  next  I  would  have  had  ;  nor  would  Mrs. 
Stone  let  her  man  Lewis  come,  whom  this  man  recommended  to 
me,  so  that  I  was  at  a  mighty  loss  what  to  do  for  a  cooke,  Phil¬ 
ips  being  out  of  town.  Therefore,  after  staying  here  at  West¬ 
minster  a  great  while,  we  came  back  to  London,  and  then  to 
Philips’,  and  his  man  directed  us  to  Mr.  Levett’s,  who  could  not 
come,  and  he  sent  to  two  more,  and  they  could  not ;  so  that  at 
last  Lovett  as  a  great  kindness  did  resolve  he  would  leave  his 
business  and  come  himself,  which  set  me  in  great  ease  in  my 
mind.”  The  want  of  experienced  servants  is  greatly  felt  in  all 
American  families.  This  deficiency  compels  the  lady  herself  to 
perform  many  fatiguing  offices  when  preparing  for  guests,  all  of 
which  unfits  her  for  that  ease  and  calmness  which  is  necessary  in 


DINNER. 


73 

a  hostess.  American  ladies,  laboring  under  such  a  disadvantage, 
should  not  attempt  to  give  such  entertainments  as  require  system, 
order  and  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  servants.  In  spite  of 
their  own  great  personal  efforts,  some  failure  is  very  likely  to 
take  place  ;  and  if  by  great  good  fortune  they  escape  this  mortifi¬ 
cation,  they  do  not  escape  the  consequences  of  the  complete  over¬ 
taxing  of  their  own  nerves  and  strength,  which  their  multifarious 
duties  have  involved.  Mrs.  Stowe  says,  “  Who  is  not  cognizant 
of  dinner  parties  invited,  in  which  the  lady  of  the  house  has 
figured  successively  as  confectioner,  cook,  dining-room  girl,  and 
lastly,  rushed  up  stairs  to  bathe  her  glowing  cheeks,  smooth  her 
hair,  draw  on  satin  dress,  and  kid  gloves,  and  appear  in  the  draw¬ 
ing-room  as  if  there  were  nothing  the  matter  ?  Certainly  the 
undaunted  bravery  of  our  American  females  can  never  enough 
be  admired.  Other  women  can  play  gracefully  the  head  of  the 
establishment,  but  who,  like  them,  could  be  head,  hand,  and  foot 
all  at  once  ?  ” 

Provided  with  experienced  and  reliable  servants,  the  hostess 
still  should  not  abandon  all  to  their  management,  but  exercise  a 
supervision  over  them,  that  she  may  feel  confident  of  success. 
There  are  a  few  points  upon  which  she  should  be  certain  that  all  is 
right.  M.  Brillat  Savarin  says,  “  The  mistress  of  the  house  should 
always  assure  herself  that  the  coffee  is  excellent ,  and  the  master 
that  the  wines  are  of  the  best  quality .”  He  also  adds,  “  He  who 
does  not  bestow  personal  attention  to  the  repast  provided  for  his 
friends,  is  not  deserving  of  friends.” 

The  cheerfulness  and  enjoyment  of  the  guests  are  greatly 
promoted  by  ease  and  calmness  on  the  •part  of  the  host  and  hostess. 
They  meet  not  merely  to  eat  and  to  drink,  but  to  exchange  kindly 
feelings,  and  enjoy  agreeable  conversation,  which  an  appearance  of 
anxiety  in  their  entertainers  greatly  hinders.  After  making  every 
reasonable  provision  for  their  entertainment,  and  secured  yourself 
as  far  as  possible  against  mistake  or  accident, — lay  aside  all  anx 


74  DINNER. 

iety,  and  with  confidence  that  every  thing  will  go  on  properly; 
devote  yourself  to  attending  to  their  amusement  and  pleasure. 
John  Hancock’s  coolness  when  a  servant  let  fall  a  splendid 
cpergne  which  was  shivered  to  atoms, — is  worthy  of  imitation. 
“  Break  as  many  dishes  as  you  please,  John,”  said  he,  “  hut  don’t 
make  such  a  confounded  noise  about  it.” 

Lady  Blessington  was  accomplished  in  the  art  of  entertaining. 
Of  a  dinner,  at  her  house,  Willis  writes, — “  The  soup  vanished  in 
the  busy  silence  that  beseems  it,  and  as  the  courses  commenced 
their  procession,  Lady  Blessington  led  the  conversation  with  the 
brilliancy  and  ease  for  which  she  is  remarkable  over  all  the 
women  of  her  time.  Talking  better  than  any  body  else,  and  nar¬ 
rating,  particularly,  with  a  graphic  power  that  I  never  saw  ex¬ 
celled, — this  distinguished  woman  seems  striving  only  to  make 
others  unfold  themselves  ;  and  never  had  diffidence  a  more  ap¬ 
prehensive  and  encouraging  listener.” 

It  is  impossible  to  give  any  precise  rules  for  the  dinner  itself ; 
the  number  of  courses,  the  variety  of  dishes,  etc.,  which  would  be 
applicable  to  all  places.  The  forms  and  usages  of  the  society  in 
which  each  person  moves,  are  the  best  guides  in  this  respect ;  for 
a  dinner,  or  any  other  entertainment,  is  in  the  best  taste,  when  it 
is  adapted  to,  and  consistent  with  the  sphere  and  position  in  life 
to  which  a  person  belongs.  Too  grand  a  display  is  as  absurd,  as 
too  limited  a  one  is  mean. 

There  are  persons  however,  to  whom  the  following  rules  may 
be  of  service,  which  we  present  from  a  recent  writer  in  a  Lon¬ 
don  journal : — 

Let  a  lady  ask  her  guests  to  dinner  at  quarter  to  eight  (or  seven,  as  the  case 
may  be),  and  let  the  dinner  be  announced,  co&te  qui  coute,  at  eight. 

Let  the  guests  in  no  case  exceed  ten  in  number,  if  there  are  ladies ;  if  only 
gentlemen,  the  Roman  rule,  “  no  more  than  the  muses.” 

Let  the  lady  settle  every  seat  beforehand,  and  let  the  husband  direct  each 
guest  in  succession  to  the  proper  seat. 

Let  her  have  a  round  table. 


DINNER.  Vo 

Let  her  have  chairs  with  spring-seats  and  spring  backs,  quite  unlike  ordinary 
dinner  chairs. 

Let  her  table  be  covered,  not  with  the  bottoms  of  wretched  side-dishes,  of 
which  the  tops  are  wanting,  but  (apart  from  the  usual  accompaniments  of  silver, 
linen,  and  multi-colored  glass)  with  a  grouped  abundance  of  flowers,  green 
leaves,  French  painted  moss  and  fruit  according  to  the  season. 

Let  these  be  arranged,  if  possible,  among  Dresden  or  Sevres  productions, 
with  a  statuette  here  of  a  corbeille-bearing  child,  (which  corbeille  fill  with 
grapes,)  and  another  there  of  a  shepherdess  with  strawberries  or  a  pine  in  her 
apron ;  but,  if  these  are  not  forthcoming,  there  are  few  houses  where  dinners 
are  given  that  have  not  some  pretty  objects  in  silver,  biscuit,  or  the  like,  to  set 
off  a  table,  and  even  an  ordinary  dinner-service  may  be  made  to  look  very  pretty 
with  the  accessories  of  flowers,  moss,  cakes  and  fruit. 

The  two  main  objects  of  dessert  (beyond  those  portions  of  it  which  will  be 
removed  from  the  table  at  intervals  to  form  part  of  the  dinner)  are  its  fragrance 
and  its  effect  by  way  of  ornaments.  After  dining  properly,  no  one  thinks,  or 
ought  to  think,  of  stuffing  dessert;  and,  with  the  exception  of  such  parts  of  the 
dessert  as  naturally  come  in  during  dinner  (and  this  I  invariably  make  to  em¬ 
brace  a  good  deal),  as  melon  with  roast  lamb,  marrons  with  capon,  olives  with 
ducklings,  pine  with  volatile  saute  au  sufreme,  etc.,  few  persons  worthy  of  din¬ 
ing  will  do  more  than  “  taste  ”  dessert  after  dinner. 

Let  the  room  have  au  overflowing  light  without  heat,  but  not  too  much  light 
on  the  table. 

Let  the  table,  arranged  with  such  an  entourage  as  I  have  mentioned,  have  on 
it  one  vacant  spot — and  one  alone — and  that  one  before  the  host. 

Let  the  lady  obtain  a  number  of  blank  menus ,  (bill  of  fare,)  and  let  each  guest 
find  one  of  these  menus  (carefully  filled  up  in  a  lady’s  hand,  and  setting  out 
coming  dinner)  on  his  napkin  before  his  seat,  and  if  there  should  be  a  rose  or  a 
bunch  of  violets  by  its  side  it  will  only  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  table,  and  still 
more  increase  the  particular  effect  to  be  attained,  which  is  as  follows : — When 
conversation  momentarily  flags  in  any  quarter,  you  will  see  the  silent  or  stupid 
guest  at  once  fly  to  his  menu,  or  his  rose,  which  are  always  there  before  him, 
and  it  is  astonishing  how  soon  he  revives  and  joins  again  in  the  conversation. 
The  pause  is  so  much  better  occupied  than  by  the  ordinary  process  of  munch¬ 
ing  bread. 

Let  the  dinner  be  served  d  la  Eusse — one  dish  at  a  time,  and  only  one — one 
soup,  then  one  fish,  and  so  on.  The  mistakes  of  ordinary  dinners  are  too  absurd 
to  mention.  You  see  two  soups  and  two  fish,  the  former  often  cold,  the  latter 
sure  to  become  so  while  you  are  eating  the  former,  and  not  one  of  the  four 
properly  adapted  for  any  other.  Then  you  see  (as  you  graphically  describe  it) 
two  great  dishes  and  four  or  six  side  dishes,  all  prepared  at  once,  all  coming  up 
together,  all  rapidly  losing  their  first  and  proper  flavor,  and  the  former  of  which 
(a  saddle  of  mutton  and  chickens !),  if  not  cold  already,  must  become  cold  while 


DINNER. 


76 


the  latter  are  being  handed  about  to  everybody  in  the  most  incongruous  confu¬ 
sion,  one  which,  perhaps,  you  would  like,  passing  by  because  at  the  time  you  are 
eating  another,  a  vol  au  vent  offered  you  just  as  you  finish  boudin  de  veau  a  la 
Richelieu  ;  a  third,  which  you  instinctively  feel  is  the  proper  thing  at  that  crisis, 
and  unseen  by  you  heretofore,  replaced  on  an  empty  stand  before  you  at  the 
moment  the  saddle  is  uncovered,  and  it  is  too  late ;  and  a  thousand  similar  ab¬ 
surdities — each  dish  probably  very  good,  perhaps  done  by  a  real  chef,  but  from 
the  combined  want  of  heat  and  of  head,  the  whole  is  an  inextricable  podrida, 
which  is  not  “  dining.” 

Let,  then,  the  dinner  be  served  as  I  have  mentioned,  one  dish  at  a  time,  and 
only  one.  In  dining  there  is  no  choice.  After  one  dish  comes  the  proper  dish. 
When  offered  to  you,  omit  it,  if  you  like ;  you  may  injure  the  edifice  ;  but  don’t 
substitute  it  for  another,  which  will  also  spoil  all  that  comes  after.  Connoisseurs 
know  that  the  true  art,  the  difficult  secret  of  each  cuisir.e,  are  “sauces”  and 
their  attributes.  Let  me  taste  the  productions  of  any  cook  in  the  way  of  three 
or  four  foundation  sauces,  as  Espagnol,  Bechamel,  veloute,  etc.,  and  I  will  soon 
tell  you  if  he  is  worthy  to  be,  or  ever  will  be,  a  chef.  By  consequence  one  of  the 
secondary  difficulties  is  “  soups.”  Now,  of  course,  it  is  impossible  here  to  go  at 
length  into  the  interior  of  those  menus,  (varied  as  they  ever  must  be,)  which  I 
have  recommended  should  be  written  out  in  a  ladylike  hand  for  each  guest;  but 
there  are  two  or  three  things  which,  if  ladies  will  learn,  they  soon  know  how  to 
fill  up  their  menus  for  themselves.  Let  them  know,  then,  that  the  main  impor¬ 
tance  of  dinner  consists,  or  ought  to  consist,  in  the  entrees,  those  hapless  side- 
dishes  for  wdrich  they,  the  ladies,  so  often  think  any  thing  will  do.  The  im¬ 
portance  of  the  entrees  again  entirely  consists  in  their  sauces,  (not  necessarily 
foundation  sauces,  but  probably  deductions  from  them ;)  and  according  to  the 
two  or  three  distinguishing  sauces  which  are  adapted  for  the  best  forms  of  the 
different  materials  the  season  of  the  year  allows  for  entrees,  ought  to  be  regu¬ 
lated  both  the  earlier  and  later  parts  of  the  dinners.  Let  a  lady  and  her  cook 
then  devise  how  many,  and  what  entrees  there  shall  be  ;  and  that  being  settled, 
let  them  think  on  the  one  hand,  of  what  fish  is  in  season  and  how  to  be  dressed, 
whose  sauce  will  not  depend  on  the  entrees,  and  what  soup  they  can  give,  whose 
consomme  or  stock  shall  not  be  made  of  the  entree  sauces ;  and,  on  the  other 
hand,  let  them  travel  in  the  opposite  direction,  and  think  what  releves  and  rot  is, 
and  how  dressed ;  and,  lastly,  what  game  (the  latter  generally  an  easy  choice) 
will  best  accord  with  the  taste  generated  by,  and  yet  be  totally  distinct  from, 
the  two  or  three  leading  sauces.  In  fact,  begin  with  the  middle  of  your  dinner, 
and  work  outwards  both  ways. 

I  very  much  doubt  the  existing  routine  being  capable  of  much  improvement, 
except  the  modifications  I  shall  mention  hereafter.  You  may  begin  with  oysters 
if  you  like,  (a  good  thing,  never  exceeding  from  four  to  six,)  or  with  any  other 
hors  d' oeuvre  of  the  same  wooing  nature,  (the  Romans  began  with  eggs ;)  but 
next  to  any  such  appas  I  am  satisfied  the  true  foundation  of  dinner  is  soup. 


DINNEE.  11 


Soup  used  to  come  iu  as  the  fourth  course,  reigning  Queen  Anne,  but  without 
being  medecins  malgre  nous,  iu  a  century  and  a  quarter  nous  avons  change, 
tout  ga. 

Again,  I  only  give  one  fish  as  fish ,  and  that  invariably  after  the  soup.  Other 
fish  may  come  in  as  entries  after  an  interlude,  but  this  again  ranges  to  the 
higher  branches  of  art.  The  Germans  will  give  you  many  a  fish  au  naturel  after 
dishes  such  as  stewed  veal  and  the  like  ;  but  such  things  are  barbarous,  and  in 
this  country  at  least,  no  one  dines  so  well  as  with  the  ordinary  and  natural  se¬ 
quence  of  fish  after  soup. 

Let  each  dish  (where  necessary)  between  the  fish  and  the  releves,  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  its  peculiar  vegetable,  and  for  ordinary  English  tastes  you  must  have 
potatoes  as  well.  As  to  this,  I  have  generally  at  hand  for  all  the  softer  kind  of 
entrees ,  a  gateau  aux  pommes-de-terre,  almost  as  fine  and  light  as  sponge-cake,  and 
made  of  potatoes,  cream,  etc. ;  and  for  the  severer  class  of  entrees,  pommes-de- 
terre  f rites,  maitre  d'hotel,  etc.,  as  the  case  may  be.  Plain  potatoes  (one  of  the 
best  things  in  the  world)  are  perfect  with  a  few  releves  and  some  rotis,  but  there 
are  very  few  entrees  that  they  will  not  absolutely  and  irretrievably  annihilate. 
Let  one  of  a  lady’s  first  lessons  be  to  make  a  potato-cake. 

Let  there  come  on  after  the  game  (and  this  invariably)  one  or  two  vegetables, 
by  themselves.  These  must  be  particularly  attended  to,  and  many  of  them,  as 
salsifis  a  la  poulette,  artichaux  d  la  Bordelaise,  or  a  la  Barigoule,  require  some 
little  trouble.  Still,  provided  they  are  not  a  recurrence  of  any  thing  gone  be¬ 
fore,  the  lady  will  find  the  trouble  not  misapplied,  for  they  are  the  natural  path 
leading  to  the  entremets,  and  if  they  are  good  and  appropriate,  the  entremets 
which  follow,  (and  which  have  generally  given  her  so  much  trouble  heretofore,) 
need  never  be  more  than  two  in  number. 

Let  the  entremets  then  succeed,  and  iu  the  case  of  a  dinner  such  as  I  have 
attempted  to  portray,  one  at  least  of  those  two  entremets  should  always  be  of  a 
light  nature.  A  first-rate  souffle  is  very  good  for  the  second  one;  and  if  of 
•vanille  will  suit  most  dinners.  Never  have  a  chocolate  souffle  where  a  leading 
sauce  has  been  'a  la  Bateliere. 

Finish  between  the  months  of  October  and  May,  with  caviare  on  buttered 
toast. 

Let  the  host  carve  each  dish  in  succession,  except  the  final  ices.  This  is  not 
too  much  to  do  if  the  number  does  not  exceed  ten.  Let  the  quantity  given  be 
small,  and,  above  all,  let  the  hot  plates  for  each  dish  come  in  with  the  dish.  Of 
course  the  dishes  may  be  carved  on  the  sideboard,  but  I  have  never  found  a 
dinner  go  off  so  well.  Anything  which  gratifies  the  sight,  “  tells and  each  dish 
in  succession  ought  to  be  a  really  pretty  object.  Supposing  guests  to  be  hungry, 
(and  why  dine  if  you  are  not?)  each  dish,  when  uncovered,  and  still  more  when 
tasted,  ought  to  be  the  very  thing  which  the  prior  part  of  the  dinner  has  led  you 
at  that  moment  to  desire,  and  I  have  found  this  effect  is  quite  lost,  if  nothing  is 
seen  but  a  small  portion  on  the  plate. 


78  DINNER. 

Now,  let  any  lady  who  has  read  so  far,  sit  down  and  calculate.  She  will  have 
given  one  soup,  one  fish,  three  or  four  entrees,  (never  more,)  one  releve,  one  roti, 
one  game,  (generally  enough,  unless  you  have  ortolans  or  beccajicos  for  a  second,) 
two  legumes,  and  two  entremets,  in  all  12  or  13  plats,  and  equally  12  or  13  courses. 
She  will  have  probably  saved  five  substantial  dishes  at  least;  besides  I  don’t 
know  how  many  other  entremets  and  absurdities.  She  will  have  given  a  dinner 
in  which  each  dish  is  in  its  best  “  form in  which  are  avoided  the  awkward 
cessations  from  all  action  and  conversation,  which  so  often  occur  during  the 
change  of  the  courses,  and,  (correctly  done,)  she  will  have  improved  her  hus¬ 
band’s  temper,  and  gratified  every  guest  she  has.  She  will  have  done  more — 
she  will  probably  decrease  the  length  of  her  dinner,  while  she  certainly  renders  it 
far  less  tedious,  and  she  will  (without  fail,  if  she  can  succeed  in  one  other  point) 
shorten  the  time  that  the  gentlemen  sit  alone  after  the  ladies  are  gone. 

Having  considered  the  dinner-party  in  its  various  points,  we 
will  now  illustrate  that  spirit  of  true  hospitality  which  is  the 
charm  of  all  social  life,  and  which,  while  it  is  perfectly  compatible 
with  wealth,  elegance,  and  refinement,  is  yet  independent  of  all 
these  circumstances,  and  may  shine  as  truly  at  the  humble  table 
of  the  lowly,  as  at  the  sumptuous  board  of  the  wealthy  and 
noble. 

Eve’s  Repast  for  the  Angel-Guest. 

With  despatchful  looks,  in  haste 
She  turns,  on  hospitable  thoughts  intent ; 

What  choice  to  choose  for  delicacy  best, 

What  order,  so  contrived  as  not  to  mix 
Tastes  not  well  join’d,  inelegant,  but  bring 
Taste  after  taste  upheld  with  kindliest  change ; 

Bestirs  her  then,  and  from  each  tender  stalk 
Whatever  Earth,  all-bearing  mother,  yields 
In  India,  East  or  West,  or  middle  shore 
In  Pontus  or  the  Punic  coast,  or  where 
Alcinous  reign’d,  fruit  of  all  kinds,  in  coat 
Rough,  or  smooth  rind,  or  bearded  husk,  or  shell, 

She  gathers  tribute  large,  and  on  the  board 
Heaps  with  unsparing  hand  ;  for  drink,  the  grape 
She  crushes,  inoffensive  must,  and  meaths 
From  many  a  berry ;  and  from  sweet  kernels  press’d 
She  tempers  dulcet  creams ;  nor  these  to  hold 
Wants  her  fit  vessels  pure;  then  strows  the  ground 
With  rose  and  odors  from  the  shrub  unfumed. 


DINNER.  V  9 

Raised  of  grassy  turf 

Their  table  was,  and  mossy  seats  had  round  ; 

And  on  her  ample  square,  from  side  to  side, 

All  autumn  piled,  though  spring  and  autumn  here 
Danced  hand  in  hand. 

Milton. 

Telemachcs’  Reception  of  Minerva. 

The  stranger-guest  the  royal  youth  beheld ; 

Grieved  that  a  visitant  so  long  should  wait,’ 

Unmarked,  uuhonored,  at  a  monarch’s  gate, 

Instant  he  flew,  with  hospitable  haste, 

And  the  new  friend  with  courteous  air  embraced. 

“Stranger,  ***** 

Approach  the  dome  ;  the  social  banquet  share, 

And  then  the  purpose  of  thy  soul  declarp.” 

“  An  Arab  chief  in  the  days  of  Nowshirwaun,  possessed  a 
horse,  marvellous  for  its  beauty  and  speed,  the  wonder  and  pride 
of  Arabia.  The  king,  who  had  heard  of  this  horse,  sent  a  noble¬ 
man  of  his  court  to  purchase  it.  The  emissary  arrived  at  his 
tent,  when  every  item  of  household  stores,  his  camels,  sheep, 
goats,  and  even  horses,  had  been  consumed  in  hospitality.  The 
beautiful  Arab  horse  alone  remained.  Hautim’s  heart  bled  for 
his  steed,  as,  without  hesitation,  he  slew  him  to  feed  his  guest. 
The  next  day  the  emissary  opened  his  mission,  by  stating  that  he 
was  sent  by  the  king  to  purchase,  at  any  price,  Hautim’s  steed. 
“  I  deeply  regret,”  answered  Hautim,  “  that  you  did  not  at  once 
intimate  your  purpose  ;  you  ate  the  flesh  of  my  horse  last  night. 
It  was  the  last  animal  left  me,  and  my  guest  had  a  right  to  it.” 

“  And  touching  the  guiding  of  thy  house,  let  thy  hospitality 
be  moderate,  and  according  to  the  means  of  thy  estate ;  rather 
plentiful  than  sparing,  but  not  costly.  For  I  never  knew  any  man 
grow  poor  by  keeping  an  orderly  table.  But  some  consume 
themselves  through  vices,  and  their  hospitality  bears  the  blame. 
Bannish  swinish  drunkards  from  thine  house,  which  is  a  vice  ini- 


DINNER. 


80 

pairing  health,  consuming  much,  and  makes  no  show.  Beware 
thou  spend  not  above  three  of  four  parts  of  thy  revenues  ;  nor 
above  a  third  part  of  that  in  thine  house,  for  the  other  two  parts 
will  do  no  more  than  defray  thy  extraordinaries ;  which  always 
surmount  the  ordinary  by  much  ;  otherwise  thou  shalt  live  like, 
a  rich  beggar  in  continual  want.” — Precepts  addressed  by  Lord 
Burleigh  to  his  son ,  Robert  Cecil ,  afterwards  Earl  of  Salisbury. 

But  ancient  friends,  (tho’  poor  or  out  of  play,) 

That  touch  my  bell,  I  cannot  turn  away. 

’T  is  true,  no  turbots  dignify  my  boards, 

But  gudgeons,  flounders,  what  my  Thames  affords ; 

To  Hounslow-Heath  I  point,  and  Banstead-Down, 

Thence  comes  your  mutton,  and  these  chicks  my  own ; 

From  yon  old  walnut  tree  a  shower  shall  fall, 

And  grapes  long  lingering  on  my  only  wall, 

And  figs  from  standards 'and  espalier  join; 

The  devil  is  in  you  if  you  cannot  dine. 

Pope. 

May  Heaven  (it’s  all  I  wish  for)  send 
One  genial  room  to  treat  a  friend, 

Where  decent  cupboard,  little  plate, 

Display  benevolence,  not  state. 

Matthew  Creex. 

“  I  pray  you,  O  excellent  wife,  cumber  not  yourself  and  me 
to  get  a  curiously  rich  dinner  for  this  man  or  woman  who  has 
alighted  at  our  gates,  nor  a  bed-chamber  made  ready  at  too  great 
a  cost ;  these  things,  if  they  are  curious  in  them,  they  can  get  for 
a  few  shillings  at  any  village ;  but  rather  let  the  stranger  pee,  if 
he  will,  in  your  looks,  accent,  and  behavior, — your  heart  and 
earnestness,  your  thought  and  will,  which  he  cannot  buy  at  any 
price,  in  any  city,  and  which  he  may  well  travel  twenty  miles, 
and  dine  sparingly,  and  sleep  hardly,  to  behold.  Let  not  the 
emphasis  of  hospitality  lie  in  bed  and  board ;  but  let  truth,  and 
love,  and  honor,  and  courtesy  flow  in  all  your  deeds.” 

Over-strained  Politeness ,  or  vulgar  Hospitality . — As  soon  as 


:  ..--zz-- 


I 


DINNER. 


81 


I  entered  the  parlor,  they  put  me  into  the  great  chair  that  stood 
close  by  a  huge  fire,  and  kept  me  there  by  force  until  I  was  almost 
stifled.  Then  a  boy  came  in  a  great  hurry  to  pull  off  my  boots, 
which  I,  in  vain  opposed,  urging  that  I  must  return  soon  after  din¬ 
ner.  In  the  mean  time,  the  good  lady  whispered  her  eldest 
daughter,  and  slipped  a  key  into  her  hand.  The  girl  returned 
instantly  with  a  beer  glass  half  full  of  aqua  mirabilis  and  syrup 
of  gilly  flowers.  I  took  as  much  as  I  had  a  mind  for,  but  Madam 
vowed  I  should  drink  it  ofT,  and  I  was  forced  to  obey,— which  ab¬ 
solutely  took  away  my  stomach. 

When  dinner  came  in,  I  had  a  mind  to  sit  at  a  distance  from 
the  fire ;  but  they  told  me  it  was  as  much  as  my  life  was  worth, 

and  set  me  with  my  back  against  it. 

Although  my  appetite  was  quite  gone,  I  resolved  to  force 
down  as  much  as  I  could,  and  desired  the  leg  of  a  pullet.  “  In¬ 
deed,  Mr.  Brickerstaff”  says  the  lady,  «  you  must  eat  a  wing  to 
oblige  me  ;  ”  and  so  put  a  couple  on  my  plate.  I  was  persecuted 
at  this  rate  during  the  whole  meal.  As  often  as  I  called  for  small 
beer,  the  master  tipped  the  wink,  and  the  servant  brought  me  a 
brimmer  of  October.  Some  time  after  dinner,  I  ordered  my  man 
to  get  ready  the  horses,  but  it  was  resolved  I  should  not  stir  that 
night,  and  when  I  seemed  pretty  much  bent  on  going,  they 
ordered  the  stable  door  to  be  locked,  and  the  children  hid  my 
cloak  and  boots. 

The  next  question  was,  what  would  I  have  for  supper  1  1 

said,  “  I  never  eat  any  thing  at  night ;  ”  but  was  at  last,  in  my 
own  defence,  obliged  to  name  the  first  thing  that  came  into  my 
head.  After  three  hours  spent  chiefly  in  apologies  for  my  enter¬ 
tainment,  insinuating  to  me  “  that  this  was  the  worst  time  of  the 
year  for  provisions  ;  that  they  were  afraid  I  should  be  starved, 
and  they  knew  they  kept  me  to  my  loss,”  the  lady  went,  and  left 
me  to  her  husband  (for  they  took  special  care  I  should  never  be 

alone). 

6 


82  DINNER. 

Exactly  at  eight,  she  came  back,  and  I  discovered  by  the  red¬ 
ness  of  her  face,  that  supper  was  not  far  off.  It  was  twice  as 
large  as  the  dinner,  and  my  persecution  doubled  in  proportion. 
They  importuned  me  to  drink  something  before  I  went  to  bed  ; 
and  on  my  refusing,  at  last  left  me  a  bottle  of  stingo,  for  fear  I 
should  wake  and  be  thirsty  in  the  night.  I  was  now  resolved  to 
get  away,  and  after  sitting  down  to  a  monstrous  breakfast  of  cold 
beef,  mutton,  neat’s  tongues,  venison  pasty,  and  stale  beer,  took 
leave  of  the  family. 

It  is  evident  that  none  of  the  absurdities  I  met  with  in  this 
visit  proceeded  from  ill  intention,  but  from  a  wrong  judgment  of 
complaisance,  and  a  misapplication  of  the  rules  of  it. — Dr.  John¬ 
son. 

Invitation  to  Dinner,  by  Thomas  Moore. 

( Addreesed  to  Lord  Lansdowne.) 

Some  think  we  bards  have  nothing  real ; 

That  poets  live  among  the  stars  so, 

Their  very  dinners  are  ideal, — 

(And  Heaven  knows,  too  oft  they  are  so ;) 

For  instance,  that  we  have,  instead 

Of  vulgar  chops,  and  stews,  and  hashes, 

First  course — a  Phoenix  at  the  head, 

Done  in  its  own  celestial  ashes ; 

At  foot,  a  cygnet,  which  kept  singing 
All  the  time  its  neck  was  wringing. 

Side  dishes,  thus :  Minerva’s  owl, 

Or  any  such  like  learned  fowl ; 

Doves,  such  as  heaven’s  poulterer  gets 
When  Cupid  shoots  his  mother’s  pets. 

Larks,  stewed  in  morning’s  roseate  breath, 

Or  roasted  by  a  sunbeam’s  splendor; 

And  nightingales,  berhymed  to  death, 

Like  young  pigs,  whipped  to  make  them  tender. 

Such  fare  may  suit  those  bards  who  ’re  able 
To  banquet  at  Duke  Humphrey’s  table ; 


SOUPS. 


83 

But  as  for  me,  who ’ve  long  been  taught 
To  eat  and  drink  like  other  people, 

And  can  put  up  with  mutton,  bought 
Where  Branham  rears  its  ancient  steeple — 

If  Lansdowne  will  consent  to  share 
My  humble  feast,  though  rude  the  fare, 

Yet,  seasoned  by  that  salt  he  brings 
From  Attica’s  salinest  springs, 

’T  will  turn  to  dainties ;  while  the  cup 
Beneath  his  influence,  brightening  up 
Like  that  of  Baucis,  touched  by  Jove, 

Will  sparkle  fit  for  gods  above ! 


SOUPS. 

In  making  soups  from  raw  beef,  lamb  or  veal,  first  break  the 
bones  apart,  and  lay  them  in  the  pot,  with  an  ounce  of  butter  for 
every  pound  of  meat,  a  slice  or  two  of  lean  bacon  cut  small,  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  cup  of  water.  Put  it  over  the  fire  ;  when  boiling, 
stir  round  with  a  spoon,  for  about  ten  minutes,  or  until  it  forms 
a  whitish,  thick  gravy  at  the  bottom,  or  gets  rather  dry  ;  then 
add  cold  water,  five  pints  for  every  two  pounds  of  meat ; 
when  boiling,  let  it  simmer  gently  for  three  quarters  of  an 
hour  ;  skim  it  well,  when  it  cools  take  off  the  fat  from  the  sur¬ 
face,  pass  it  through  a  sieve ;  it  will  then  be  ready  to  add  ver¬ 
micelli,  rice,  or  whatever  vegetables  you  may  choose,  as  peas, 
carrots,  potatoes,  onions,  parsley,  etc.  A  variety  of  soups  may 
be  thus  made  from  this  stock. 

Pea-Soup. — Soak  over  night,  one  cup  of  split  peas,  for  two 
quarts  of  the  soup  prepared  as  above  ;  when  added  to  the  soup 
set  the  latter  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  it  frequently,  or  the 
peas  will  settle  upon  the  bottom  and  burn.  Cook  two  hours  or 
more,  until  the  peas  are  well  rubbed  into  the  soup. 


84  DINNER. 

Peas  make  an  excellent  addition  to  a  soup  made  from  a  bone 
of  roast  beef  which  is  well  boiled  after  being  broken.  Season  to 
your  taste. 

JVudels  for  Soup. — Two  or  three  eggs  should  be  beaten  with 
a  little  salt.  Stir  the  eggs  into  flour  until  you  make  as  stiff  a 
paste  as  you  can  roll  out.  Divide  the  dough  into  two  or  three 
parts,  and  roll  each  out  as  thin  as  possible,  the  thinner  the  better, 
flouring  your  rolling  pin  to  make  it  roll  smoothly.  After  rolling 
out  one  crust,  leave  that  upon  your  board  to  dry,  while  you  pre¬ 
pare  another,  letting  them  stand  half  an  hour  at  least ;  an  hour 
if  you  have  time,  for  the  drying  is  important.  After  this,  fold 
each  crust  in  one  long  roll,  and  cut  off  shreds  as  thin  as  possible. 
Shake  these  apart,  and  let  them  also  dry  a  little ;  it  will  make 
them  lighter,  and  prevent  their  sticking  together  in  the  soup. 

After  your  soup  is  strained  and  nearly  ready  to  be  served, 
drop  the  nudels  in,  and  boil  twenty  minutes.  If  the  above  quan¬ 
tity  be  more  than  you  wish  to  use  at  one  time,  you  can  keep  part 
of  them  in  a  cool  dry  place,  for  a  few  days.  Some  persons  make 
them  last  a  fortnight,  but  they  are  not  generally  as  good  as  when 
fresh.  They  can  be  made  with  less  eggs,  by  using  a  little  milk 
instead,  but  are  not  as  good  as  by  the  above  rule. 

The  famous  Sir  Samuel  Moreland’s  coach  had  a  fire-place  and 
grate,  with  which  he  could  make  a  soup,  broil  cutlets,  and  roast  an 
egg  ;  and  he'  dressed  his  meat  by  clockwork. 

Beau  Brummel  speaking  of  a  man,  and  wishing  to  convey  his 
maximum  of  contemptuous  feeling  about  him,  said,  “  He  is  a  fel¬ 
low,  now,  that  would  send  his  plate  up  twice  for  soup  !  ” 

Beef  Soup. — A  good  beef  soup  is  made  by  taking  a  shank  of 
beef,  cutting  it  into  two  or  three  pieces,  and  boiling  slowly  for 
three  hours.  Take  out  the  meat  and  bones,  and  set  the  pot  away 


soups.  85 

to  cool ;  when  cold,  skim  the  fat  from  the  surface,  put  the  pot 
over  the  fire  again,  and,  when  hot,  add  what  vegetables  you 
choose.  Season  to  your  taste,  and,  fifteen  minutes  before  serving, 
add  dumplings,  (made  by  stirring  flour  into  one  beaten  egg  and  a 
cup  of  milk,  making  it  stiff.)  Drop  these  in  while  the  soup  is 
boiling,  but  do  not  cover  the  pot  after  they  are  in.  When  they 
rise  to  the  surface,  turn  them  over. 

Gumbo  Soup. — Okra  forms  an  important  ingredient  in  this 
soup,  so  much  in  use  at  the  South.  The  okra  should  be  grown 
in  a  warm,  rich  soil,  and  picked  for  use  when  in  its  soft,  milky 
state,  like  corn.  It  colors  the  soup  dark  if  allowed  to  grow  firm 
before  picking. 

Prepare  a  good  chicken  or  lamb  soup,  and  stir  into  it  the 
okra,  which  thickens  and  forms  the  mucilage  so  pleasant  in  the 
soup.  Or  slice  a  chicken  or  turkey  (previously  boiled)  into  shreds, 
add  to  them  slices  of  salt  pork  cut  into  bits ;  put  them  over  the 
fire  in  water,  add  butter,  spices,  chopped  celery,  onion,  if  you 
like,  and  thicken  with  the  okra,  stirring  it  a  long  time. 

In  drying  okra  for  winter  use,  pick  the  pods  in  their  tender 
state,  as  if  for  immediate  use ;  cut  them  into  slices  (across)  half 
an  inch  thick,  spread  them  on  a  board,  or  string  them,  and  then 
dry  them  in  an  airy  place,  after  which  put  them  away  in  paper 
bags  for  winter  use. 

“  Luttrell  (a  famous  diner  out)  came  over  for  the  day  ;  he  was 
very  agreeable,  but  spoke  too  lightly,  I  thought,  of  veal  soup.  I 
took  him  aside,  and  reasoned  the  matter  with  him,  in  vain  ;  to 
speak  the  truth,  Luttrell  is  not  steady  in  his  judgments  on  dishes. 
Individual  failures  with  him  soon  degenerate  into  generic  objec¬ 
tions,  till,  by  some  fortunate  accident,  he  eats  himself  into  better 
opinions.  A  person  of  more  calm  reflection  thinks  not  only  of 
what  he  is  consuming  at  that  moment,  but  of  the  soups  of  the 


DINNER. 


86 

same  kind  lie  has  met  with  in  a  long  course  of  dining,  and  which 
have  gradually  and  justly  elevated  the  species.” — Sydney  Smith’s 
Letters. 

Chicken  and  Lamb  Soups. — Chicken  and  lamb  soups,  made 
simply  by  boiling  the  chicken  or  lamb  until  very  tender,  adding 
a  little  rice  towards  the  last,  are  very  excellent  and  nutritious  for 
invalids.  If  you  add  to  the  chicken  soup  some  chopped  parsley, 
and  the  following  dumplings,  it  will  improve  it.  For  dumplings, 
scald  nearly  a  pint  of  milk,  thicken  it  with  flour  previously  wet 
with  cold  milk,  let  it  cool,  beat  two  eggs  light,  and  stir  them  into 
it ;  make  rather  a  stiff  batter,  and  drop  by  spoonfuls  into  the 
soup  ;  let  them  boil  only  three  minutes.  Or,  instead  of  the 
dumplings,  add  the  nudels  (vermicelli),  which  should  boil  half  an 
hour. 

Oyster  Soujj. — Take  the  oysters  out  of  their  liquor  with  a 
fork,  and  then  strain  the  latter  to  remove  any  shells.  To  a  quart 
of  oysters  and  their  juice,  add  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  nearly  a 
cup  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  considerable  pepper.  Cook  slowly, 
stirring  carefully,  that  the  heat  may  penetrate  all  equally.  In 
one  minute  ‘after  they  come  to  the  boil,  they  are  done.  Then 
serve  hot,  either  with  crackers  or  buttered  toast. 

Sovpe  a  la  Cussy. — “  Choose  twenty  small  onions  ;  pull  off 
the  outer  skin  ;  cut  them  up  in  a  stew-pan,  with  a  piece  of  fresh 
butter  and  a  little  sugar.  Turn  them  until  they  are  a  beautiful 
golden  color ;  then  wet  them  with  some  broth,  and  add  the 
quantity  of  bread  necessary.  When  you  serve  the  soup,  add  two 
small  glasses  of  cognac  brandy. 

“  For  fasting  in  Lent,  M.  De  Cussy  prepared  for  himself  this 
soup,  and  he  ate  a  fine  dish  of  it.  If  any  friend  came  in  unex¬ 
pectedly,  he  had  in  reserve  in  his  closet  a  piece  of  salmon  and  a 


SOUPS. 


87 

buncli  of  asparagus.  It  was  thus  I  dined  with  him  on  Tuesday 
in  Holy  Week.” — M.  Koques. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup  ( German  mode). — Bone  a  scalded  calf’s 
head,  boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  a  great  deal  of  water, 
then  cool  it  in  cold  water,  and  now  cut  it  into  lozenges  about  an 
inch  thick.  Put  these  into  a  suitable  stew-pan,  pour  soup-stock 
over  it,  and  boil  it  for  two  hours,  till  done. 

How  take  a  head  of  celery,  tAvo  carrots,  an  onion,  a  parsnip, 
all  cut  into  slices,  three  ounces  of  butter,  and  three  table-spoon¬ 
fuls  of  flour,  and  brown  them  gently  in  a  pan  with  two  spoonfuls 
of  brown  broth,  and  tAvo  spoonfuls  of  soup-stock  ;  add  to  this, 
thyme,  sweet-basil,  (Avhich  gives  a  peculiarly  delicate  flavor,)  and 
ten  Avhole  grains  of  pepper. 

The  scum  and  fat  which  rise  from  the  soup  must  be  taken  off 
from  time  to  time,  and  the  soup,  together  with  the  calf’s-head 
broth,  be  strained  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  seasoned  with  the 
necessary  salt,  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  a  glass 
of  hot  Madeira  wine.  Then  take  the  calf’s  head  out  of  the 
liquid  in  Avhich  it  has  been  boiled,  place  it  in  the  tureen,  and 
pour  the  soup  boiling  hot  over  it ;  there  are  also  very  small 
dumplings  Avhich  are  to  be  added,  Avhich  are  made  of  “  chicken 
stuffing,”  and  boiled  separately  in  soup-stock. 

(This  chicken  stuffing  is  made  from  chicken  breast  pounded 
fine  in  a  mortar,  the  skin  being  previously  removed,  and  to  four 
ounces  of  chicken  add  tAvo  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  steeped  in  milk 
and  pressed  dry  again,  tAvo  ounces  and  a  half  of  chopped  bacon, 
or  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  Avell  mixed,  and  all  pounded  to¬ 
gether,  Avith  one  egg  and  yelk  of  another.  Season  Avith  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  rub  through  a  coarse  sieAre.  This  stuf¬ 
fing  is  chiefly  used  for  dumplings.) — Vollmer. 

Turtle  Soup. — Make  a  cut  Avith  a  cleaver  on  the  side,  between 


DINNER. 


88 

the  lower  and  upper  shells,  bend  the  shells  asunder,  and  loosen 
the  turtle  carefully  with  a  sharp  knife.  If  it  is  alive,  cut  off  the 
head  and  feet,  and  let  it  bleed  for  several  hours,  in  lukewarm 
water.  After  the  entrails  and  the  gall  have  been  removed,  wash 
it  very  clean,  put  it  on  the  fire  in  cold  water,  let  it  boil  up  once, 
put  it  again  into  cold  water,  and  for  a  second  time  let  it  boil 
until  the  skin  can  be  drawn  off.  When  this  is  done,  and  the 
turtle  has  got  cold,  cut  the  meat  into  nice  little  dice-shaped 
pieces,  put  in  a  piece  of  butter,  a  carrot,  an  onion,  some  whole 
pepper,  fine  salt,  three  or  four  cloves,  a  bottle  of  Madeira,  and  a 
pint  of  good  brown  broth,  and  allow  the  whole  to  stew  till  done, 
for  about  two  hours,  keeping  it  well  covered ;  after  which  take  it 
out,  put  it  in  the  tureen,  and  add  a  ragout  a  la  Jinanciere,  and  the 
eggs  of  the  turtle.  In  the  mean  time,  prepare  a  brown  sauce,  add 
it  to  the  turtle  soup,  and  let  the  whole  boil  up  again  a  few  times, 
skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  pass  the  soup  over  the  meat,  through  a 
hair  sieve  ;  stir  it  up  a  couple  of  times  with  the  ladle,  and  send 
it  to  table  as  hot  as  possible. 

The  brown  broth  referred  to  in  the  above,  is  soup-stock  made 
after  the  following  manner  : 

Cut  a  pound  of  ham  in  thin  slices,  and  lay  them  on  the  bottom 
of  a  pot,  covering  it  entirely.  Slice  six  pounds  of  beef,  and  lay 
upon  the  ham,  cutting  the  slices  as  thick  as  your  finger ;  add  a  few 
chopped  onions,  sprinkle  the  whole  with  salt,  and  place  the  pot  over 
a  slow  fire,  Avhere  the  meat  will  cook  slowly,  taking  care  that  it 
does  not  burn.  When  the  juice  extracted  from  the  meat  is  brown 
and  firm,  pour  off  the  clarified  fat,  add  some  water  to  the  meat, 
and  let  it  continue  to  boil.  Eemove  the  scum  carefully  as  it  rises, 
and  let  the  broth  boil  gently  for  three  hours. — Vollmek. 

The  weight  of  a  turtle  varies  from  thirty,  to  five  or  six  hun¬ 
dred  pounds.  Epicures  of  note  have  been  known  to  prefer  it  cut 
into  steaks  and  broiled,  to  be  eaten  with  melted  butter,  cayenne 


SOUPS. 


80 

pepper,  and  the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange.  These  say  that  the 
flesh  thus  simply  dressed,  retains  more  of  its  true  flavor,  than 
when  prepared  in  any  other  way. 

It  was  not  until  the  middle  of  the  17  th  century,  that  the 
turtle  was  brought  to  England.  The  first  appearance  of  the 
turtle  is  repulsive,  and  “  does  not  carry  a  letter  of  recommenda¬ 
tion  to  the  kitchen  ;  accordingly,  his  introduction  to  the  Lord 
Mayor’s  table  -was  rather  tardy  ;  ”  and  we  learn  from  Sir  Hans 
•  Sloane  that,  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  turtle  was  only 
eaten  in  Jamaica  by  the  poor. 

Origin  of  marking  the  King's  dishes  with  the  Coolcs’  names. — 
George  II.  was  accustomed  every  other  year  to  visit  his  German 
dominions  with  the  greater  part  of  the  officers  of  his  household, 
and  especially  those  belonging  to  the  kitchen.  Once  on  his  pas¬ 
sage  at  sea,  his  first  cook  was  so  ill  with  the  sea-sickness,  that  he 
could  not  hold  up  his  head  to  dress  his  majesty’s  dinner ;  this 
being  told  to  the  king,  he  was  exceedingly  sorry  for  it,  as  he  was 
famous  for  making  a  Rhenish  soup ,  which  his  majesty  was  very 
fond  of ;  he  therefore  ordered  inquiry  to  be  made  among  the  as¬ 
sistant  cooks,  if  any  of  them  could  make  the  above  soup.  One 
named  Weston,  father  of  Tom  Weston  the  player,  undertook  it; 
and  so  pleased  the  king,  that  he  declared  it  was  full  as  good  as 
that  made  by  the  first  cook. 

Soon  after  the  king’s  return  to  England,  the  first  cook  died  ; 
when  the  king  was  informed  of  it,  he  said  that  his  steward  of  the 
household  always  appointed  the  cooks,  but  that  now  he  would 
name  one  for  himself,  and  therefore  asking  if  one  Weston  was 
still  in  the  kitchen,  and  being  answered  that  he  was,  “  That 
man,”  said  he,  “  shall  be  my  first  cook,  for  he  makes  most  excel¬ 
lent  Ehenish  soup.”  This  favor  begot  envy  among  all  the  ser¬ 
vants,  so  that  when  any  dish  wras  found  fault  with,  they  used  to 
say  it  was  Weston’s  dressing.  ,  The  king  took  notice  of  this,  and 


90  DINNER. 

said  to  the  servants  it  was  very  extraordinary  that  every  dish  he 
disliked  should  happen  to  be  Weston’s;  “in  future,”  said  he. 
“  let  every  dish  be  marked  with  the  name  of  the  cook  that 
makes  it.” 

By  this  means  the  king  detected  their  arts,  and  from  that 
time  Weston’s  dishes  pleased  him  most.  The  custom  has  con¬ 
tinued  ever  since,  and  is  still  practised  at  the  king’s  table. — 
Hone. 


FISII. 

Our  plenteous  streams  a  varied  race  supply: 

The  bright-eyed  perch,  with  fins  of  Tyrian  dye, 

The  silver  eel,  in  shining  volumes  rolled, 

The  yellow  carp ,  in  scales  bedropped  with  gold, 

Swift  trouts ,  diversified  with  crimson  stains, 

And  pikes,  the  tyrants  of  the  watery  plains. 

Tope. 

The  Pike  is  called  the  Tyrant  of  the  fresh  waters  ;  it  is  found 
in  this  country  of  several  varieties,  from  the  pickerel,  (the  dimin¬ 
utive  of  pike,)  whose  average  weight  is  four  pounds,  to  the  enor¬ 
mous  muscalonge  of  the  north-western  waters,  which  reaches  sixty 
and  even  more  pounds.  His  ferocity  is  well  attested  by  authentic 
stories. 

The  Salmon  is  termed  the  King  of  the  fresh  waters.  This  fish 
is  unknown  in  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  and  in  the  rivers  that  fall 
into  it  either  from  Europe  or  Africa.  It  is  found  in  some  of  the 
rivers  of  France  which  empty  into  the  Atlantic.  The  salmon  is 
taken  in  Kamschatka,  and  even  as  fir  north  as  Greenland,  and  is 
found  in  many  of  the  rivers  of  the  United  States  ;  they  ascend 
and  descend  the  Columbia  river,  in  immense  and  incredible  shoals. 
The  Indians  around  this  river  preserve  them  in  a  dried  state,  and 


FISH.  91 

make  them  a  principal  article  of  food.  Salmon  live  both  in  the 
ocean,  and  in  the  fresh  waters.  To  deposit  their  spawn,  they 
press  up  the  rivers  with  amazing  rapidity,  and  are  known  to  spring 
with  great  agility  over  cataracts  of  several  feet  in  height. 

Herrings  appear  in  vast  shoals  on  the  coast  of  America. 
“  They  come  annually  in  such  numbers  upon  the  shores  of  the 
Chesapeake  bay,  as  to  become  offensive  to  the  inhabitants.  Their 
habits  are  migratory  ;  they  frequent  the  highest  latitudes,  making 
their  winter  rendezvous  near  the  Arctic  circle.” — Smellie. 

The  river  “  Bull-head  ”  derives  its  common  name  from  the 
shape  of  its  head.  The  name  of  “  Miller’s  Thumb,”  is  also  given 
to  it  on  account  of  the  head’s  resembling  very  closely  the  thumb 
o  f  a  miller ,  which  has  a  peculiar  form  from  its  constant  exercise 
in  trying  the  character  of  the  meal  under  the  spout.  The  Loach , 
or  Loche,  though  very  small,  never  longer  than  four  inches, — is 
thought  to  be  so  great  a  delicacy  on  the  continent  of  Europe,  that 
they  have  been  taken  long  distances,  and  naturalized.  “  In  the 
spring  and  at  the  end  of  the  autumn,  the  gastronomers  prefer 
them  to  almost  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  water,  especially  when 
they  have  been  smothered  in  wine  or  milk.” — Isaac  Walton. 

“  The  Pearcli  (perch)  is  a  very  good,  and  a  very  bold  biting 
fish ;  he  has  a  hooked  or  hog  back,  which  is  armed  with  sharp 
and  stiff  bristles,  and  all  his  skin  covered  over  with  thick,  dry, 
hard  scales.  The  ruffe  pearch  seldom  exceeds  six  or  seven 
inches  in  length,  but  its  flesh  is  considered  excellent.” — Ibid. 

“  The  Eel  is  never  out  of  season,  as  trout  and  most  other  fish 
are  at  set  times.  It  is  agreed  by  most  men  that  it  is  a  most 
dainty  dish  ;  the  Romans  have  esteemed  the  eel  “  the  Helena  of 
their  feasts,”  and  some  “  the  queen  of  palate  pleasure.” — Ibid. 

The  Carp  is  esteemed  very  highly  as  an  article  of  food,  pre¬ 
served  with  great  care,  and  fed  in  ponds  for  the  table.  Its  te¬ 
nacity  of  life  is  very  great ;  in  Holland,  they  are  sometimes  sus¬ 
pended  in  a  damp  cellar  in  nets  full  of  moss,  which  are  moistened 


92  DINNER. 

with  milk,  and  the  fish  not  only  live,  hut  grow  fat.  The  carp  has 
been  known  to  attain  the  weight  of  eighteen  or  twenty  pounds  in 
England,  and  on  the  continent  to  grow  much  larger.  “  The 
tongues  of  carps  are  noted  to  be  choice  and  costly  meat,  especially- 
to  them  that  buy  them,  but  Gesner  says,  carps  have  no  tongues 
like  other  fish,  but  a  piece  of  flesh  like  fish  in  their  mouth  like  to 
a  tongue, — but  it  is  certain  that  it  is  choicely  good.”  ( Ibid .)  The 
carp  was  brought  to  this  country  from  France  in  1831. 

“  The  Trout ,  of  all  fresh  water  fish,  dies  the  soonest  after 
being  caught,  and  should  therefore  be  eaten  within  a  few  hours. 
The  trout  is  highly  valued  both  in  this,  and  foreign  nations ;  and 
may  justly  contend  with  all  fresh  water  fish,  for  precedency 
and  daintiness  of  taste,  and  that  being  in  right  season  the  most 
dainty  palates  have  allowed  precedency  to  him.” — Ibid. 

A  fish  called  Bream ,  was  formerly  a  favorite  dish  in  England, 
where  high  prices  were  paid  for  it.  “  In  1454,  a  pye  of  four  of 
them  in  the  expences  of  two  men  employed  for  three  days  in 
taking  them,  in  baking  them,  in  flour,  in  spices,  and  in  conveying 
it  from  Sutton  in  Warwickshire,  to  the  Earl  of  Warwick  in  the 
North  Country, — cost  xvjs.  ijd.” — Hist.  Warwick. 

“  The  Tench  is  called  ‘  the  physician  of  fishes,’  because  there 
has  sometimes  prevailed  an  idea  that  the  tench  acts  medicinally 
to  other  fish,  by  rubbing  against  them  when  wounded  or  sick  ; 
hence,  in  Germany,  the  fishermen  call  it  the  doctor  fish.” — Note 
to  Isaac  Walton. 

The  green  Turtle  is  a  wholesome  and  highly  delicious  food. 

The  land  Crab  is  regarded  as  a  delicacy  in  Jamaica. 

In  the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth  centuries,  among  the  culinary 
delicacies  are  mentioned  the  Whale,  Grampus,  Porpoise,  Sea-calf 
and  Sea-wolf.  The  Porpoise  was  a  royal  dish,  even  so  late  as  the 
reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth.  And  in  the  language  of  Thomas 
Hood, — 


FISII. 


93 

“  Good  Queen  Bess, 

- - hearty  as  hippo  campus, 

Broke  her  fast  with  ale  and  beef 
Instead  of  toast  and  the  Chinese  leaf, 

And  in  lieu  of  anchovy — grampus  !  ” 

The  receipt  for  cooking  a  Fish  two  hundred  years  ago  in  Eng¬ 
land. — “  Take  a  Carp  alive  if  possible,  scour  him  and  rub  him  clean 
•with  water  ancT  salt,  but  scale  him  not ;  then  open  him  and  put 
him  with  his  blood  and  liver,  which  you  must  save  when  you 
open  him,  into  a  small  pot  or  kettle  ;  then  take  sweet  marjoram, 
thyme,  and  parsley,  of  each  half  a  handful,  a  sprig  of  rosemary, 
and  another  of  savory  ;  bind  them  in  two  or  three  small  bundles 
and  put  them  to  your  carp,  with  four  or  five  whole  onions,  twenty 
pickled  oysters,  and  three  anchovies.  Then  pour  upon  your  carp 
as  much  claret  wine  as  will  only  cover  him,  and  season  your  claret 
well  with  salt,  cloves  and  mace,  and  the  rinds  of  oranges  and 
lemons  ;  that  done,  cover  your  pot  and  set  it  on  a  quick  fire,  till 
it  be  boiled  ;  then  take  out  the  carp  and  lay  it  with  the  broth 
into  the  dish,  and  pour  upon  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  best 
fresh  butter  melted  and  beaten  with  half  a  dozen  spoonsful  of  the 
broth,  the  yelks  of  two  or  three  eggs,  and  some  of  the  herbs  shred. 
Garnish  your  dish  with  lemons,  and  so  serve  it  up,  and  much 
good  may  it  do  you.” — I.  Walton. 

Isaac  Walton' s  mode  of  dressing  Trout  in  1053. — “  Take  your 
trout,  wash,  and  dry  him  with  a  clean  napkin ;  then  open  him, 
and  having  taken  out  his  guts,  and  all  the  blood,  wipe  him  very 
clean  within,  but  wash  him  not,  and  give  him  three  scotches  with 
a  knife  to  the  bone,  on  one  side  only.  After  which  take  a  clean 
kettle,  and  put  in  as  much  hard  stale  beer, — but  it  must  not  be 
dead, — vinegar,  and  a  little  white  wine  and  water,  as  will  cover 
the  fish  you  intend  to  boil ;  then  throw  into  the  liquor  a  good 
quantity  of  salt,  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  a  handful  of  sliced  horse¬ 
radish  root,  with  a  handsome  little  fagot  of  rosemary,  thyme,  and 


DINNER. 


94 

winter  savory.  Then  set  your  kettle  upon  a  quick  fire  of  wood, 
and  let  your  liquor  boil  up  to  the  height  before  you  put  in  your 
fish  ;  and  then,  if  there  be  many,  put  them  in  one  by  one,  that 
they  may  not  so  cool  the  liquor  as  to  make  it  fall ;  and  whilst 
your  fish  is  boiling,  beat  up  the  butter  for  your  sauce  with  a  ladle- 
ful  or  two  of  the  liquor  it  is  boiling  in  ;  and  being  boiled  enough, 
immediately  pour  the  liquor  from  the  fish,  and  being  laid  in  a 
dish,  pour  your  butter  upon  it,  and,  strewing  it  plentifully  over 
with  shaved  horse-radish  and  a  little  pounded  ginger,  garnish  the 
sides  of  your  dish  and  the  fish  itself  with  a  sliced  lemon  or  two, 
and  serve  it  up.” 

Walton,  in  discoursing  upon  the  Chub ,  says  : — “  He  may  be 
so  dressed  as  to  make  him  very  good  meat,  as,  namely,  if  he  be 
a  large  chub,  then  dress  him  thus  :  First  scale  him  ;  and  then 
wash  him  clean,  and  then  take  out  his  guts  ;  and  to  that  end  make 
the  hole  as  little  and  near  to  his  gills  as  you  may  conveniently, 
and  especially  make  clean  his  throat  from  the  grass  and  weeds 
that  are  usually  in  it,  for  if  that  be  not  very  clean,  it  will  make 
him  to  taste  very  sour ;  having  so  done,  put  some  sweet  herbs 
into  his  belly,  and  then  tie  him  with  two  or  three  splinters  to  a 
spit,  and  roast  him,  basted  often  with  vinegar,  or  rather  verjuice 
and  butter,  with  good  store  of  salt  mixed  with  it. 

“  Being  thus  dressed,  you  will  find  him  a  much  better  dish  of 
meat  than  you,  or  most  folk,  do  imagine ;  for  this  dries  up  the 
fluid  watery  humor  with  which  all  chubs  do  abound. 

“  But  take  this  rule  with  you,  that  a  chub  newly  taken  and  new¬ 
ly  dressed,  is  so  much  better  than  a  chub  of  a  day’s  keeping  af  er 
he  is  dead,  that  I  can  compare  him  to  nothing  so  fitly  as  to  cherries 
newly  gathered  from  a  tree,  and  others  that  have  been  bruised  and 
lain  a  day  or  two  in  water.  But  the  chub  being  thus  used  and 
dressed  presently,  and  not  washed  after  he  is  gutted  ; — for  note, 
that  lying  long  in  water,  and  washing  the  blood  out  of  any  fish 


FISH. 


95 

after  they  be  gutted,  abates  much  of  their  sweetness, — you  will 
find  the  chub  being  dressed  in  the  blood  and  quickly,  to  be  such 
meat  as  will  recompense  your  labor,  and  disabuse  your  opinion. 

“  Or  you  may  dress  the  chub  thus :  "When  you  have  scaled 
him,  and  cut  off  his  tail  and  fins,  and  washed  him  very  clean,  then 
chine  or  slit  him  through  the  middle  as  a  salt  fish  is  usually  cut ; 
then  give  him  three  or  four  scotches  on  the  back  with  your  knife, 
and  broil  him  on  charcoal,  or  wood-coal  that  are  free  from  smoke, 
.  and  all  the  time  he  is  a  broiling,  baste  him  with  the  best  sweet 
butter,  and  good  store  of  salt  mixed  with  it ;  and  to  this  add  a 
little  thyme  cut  exceeding  small,  or  bruised  into  the  butter.  The 
chub  thus  dressed  hath  the  watery  taste  taken  away,  for  which  so 
many  except  against  him.  Thus  was  the  cheven  dressed  that  you 
now  liked  so  well,  and  commended  so  much.  But  note  again,  that 
if  this  chub  you  ate  of,  had  been  kept  till  to-morrow,  he  had  not 
been  worth  a  rush.  And  remember,  that  his  throat  be  washed 
very  clean,  and  his  body  not  washed  after  he  is  gutted,  as  indeed 
no  fish  should  be.” 

The  “  Accomplished  Cook,”  published  in  1085,  contains  the 
following  receipt  for 

A  Herring  Pie. — Take  salt  herrings,  being  watered ;  wash 
them  between  your  hands,  and  you  shall  loose  the  fish  from  the 
skin  ;  take  off  the  skin  whole  and  lay  them  in  a  dish  ;  then  have 
a  pound  of  almond-paste  ready ;  mince  the  herrings,  and  stamp 
them  with  the  almond-paste,  tAAro  of  the  milts  or  roes,  five  or  six 
dates,  some  grated  manchet,  sugar,  sack,  rosewater  and  saffron ; 
make  the  composition  somewhat  stiff,  and  fill  the  skins ;  put 
butter  in  the  bottom  of  your  pie,  lay  on  the  herring,  and  on  them 
dates,  gooseberries,  currants,  barberries,  and  butter ;  close  it  up 
and  bake  it ;  being  baked,  liquor  it  Avith  butter,  verjuice,  and 
sugar. 


DINNER. 


96 

tc  There  was  a  pleasant  tradition  current  in  Yarmouth  not 
many  years  since,  that  the  ‘  red  ’  herring  was  the  result  of  acci¬ 
dent.  According  to  the  story,  a  fisherman  had  hung  up  some 
salted  herrings  in  his  hut,  and  forgotten  them.  They  hung 
where  they  were  exposed  to  the  smoke  from  the  wood  fire  of  the 
hut ;  and,  some  days  afterwards,  his  attention  was  attracted  to 
them,  when,  being  struck  by  their  appearance,  he  determined  to 
see  how  one  of  them  tasted.  The  result  was  so  satisfactory  that 
he  hastened  to  King  John,  who  was  then  lying  near  Norwich,  to 
make  a  present  of  the  remainder;  when  the  herrings  were  es¬ 
teemed  such  a  delicacy  by  the  monarch,  that  he  then  and  there, 
expressed  his  determination  to  grant  a  charter  of  incorporation  to 
the  town  from  which  they  were  brought.  In  this  charter  the 
burgesses  are  obliged  to  send  one  hundred  herrings  to  the  sheriff 
of  Norwich,  to  be  made  into  twenty-four  pies ;  and  these  pies  are 
to  be  sent  to  the  king  !  ” 

For  Boiling  Fish. — All  large  fish,  with  the  skin  whole ,  must  be 
put  over  the  fire  in  cold  water ;  first  wrap  it  in  a  cloth,  and  wind 
twine  around  it.  It  must  not  be  covered  with  more  than  two 
inches  of  water.  Put  in  two  tea-spoonsful  of  salt  to  every  quart 
of  water.  As  soon  as  the  water  begins  to  boil,  remove  the  pot  to 
one  side,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  done.  When  the  fish  will 
separate  easily  from  the  bone,  it  is  cooked ;  if  it  falls  from  the 
bone,  it  is  overdone.  The  exact  length  of  time  necessary  to  cook 
fish  cannot  be  specified,  since  the  quality  of  fish  varies  as  much 
as  the  size. 

Lift  the  cloth  containing  the  fish  carefully  from  the  pot,  cut 
the  twine,  and  turn  it  upon  a  napkin  laid  upon  a  platter. 

Serve  with  drawn  butter,  or  egg-sauce. 

If  the  fish  be  sliced,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  hot  water.  If  you 
have  a  drainer  to  lay  your  fish  upon  in  the  pot,  the  cloth  need 
not  be  used. 


FISH.  97 

In  boiling  salt  fisli — as  cod  and  cod-sounds — previously  soak 
it  six  hours  for  two  pounds,  changing  the  water  until  fresh. 
Set  it  then  upon  the  fire,  where  it  will  gradually  heat  and  simmer 
gently.  When  nearly  ready  to  serve,  let  it  come  to  the  boil,  then 
take  it  up  and  serve  with  drawn  butter  or  egg-sauce. 

Fish- Sauces. — The  foundation  of  all  these  sauces  is  the  melted 
butter,  which  is  prepared  by  this  rule :  Take  one  cup  of  butter, 
•rub  in  it  a  full  table-spoon  of  flour,  half  a  spoon  of  salt,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  spoon  of  pepper ;  then  add  to  it  a  pint  of  cold  water ; 
heat  it,  stirring  it  all  the  time,  and,  when  it  begins  to  simmer, 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  add  more  butter,  if  you  wish  it 
richer. 

For  egg-sauce  add  to  the  above  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped 
fine. 

Lobster  Sauce. — Get  the  spawn  of  the  lobster,  rub  them  fine 
with  a  knife  on  a  plate  with  a  bit  of  butter,  and  add  it  to  the 
hot  melted  butter,  when  it  will  turn  red.  Then  cut  the  lobster 
into  small  pieces,  and  add  the  soft  part  from  the  belly  with  it,  to 
the  melted  butter.  A  little  cayenne  pepper  may  be  sprinkled  in. 
Boil  and  serve. 

Anchovy  Sauce. — Add  to  melted  butter  two  table-spoons  of 
essence  of  anchovies  ;  or  bruise  and  boil  the  anchovies  over  a 
slow  fire  in  melted  butter. 

This  sauce  was  a  favorite  condiment  among  the  Romans,  and 
was  prepared  by  them  as  it  is  now,  after  the  above  rule. 

Shrimp  Sauce. — Pick  half  a  pint  of  shrimps,  and  boil  the 
skins  in  a  gill  of  water  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  strain  the  water,  and 
add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  also  the  flesh  of  the  shrimps, 
and  simmer  all  for  a  few  minutes.  Add  to  it  a  little  anchovy. 

7 


98  DINNER. 

Parsley ,  chopped  and  prepared  with  the  melted  butter,  makes 
a  good  sauce. 

A  little  vinegar  is  thought  by  some  cooks  to  improve  these 
sauces. 

Lobsters. — Lobsters  should  be  boiled  a  long  time ;  they  are 
more  healthful  if  long  boiled.  They  should  he  cut  open  down  the 
hack  ;  there  is  a  vein,  or  bloodvessel,  which  runs  the  length  of 
the  back,  and  leads  in  the  head  to  what  is  called  the  lady  in  the 
chair  ;  this  vein  must  he  removed,  since  it  is  poisonous. 

Dr.  Paley,  having  been  out  fishing  for  a  whole  day,  was  asked 
on  his  return  if  he  had  met  with  good  sport.  “  Oh,  yes,”  said 
he,  “  I  have  caught  no  fish  to  he  sure,  hut  I  have  made  a  sermon.” 

Scolloped  Oysters. — Poll  crackers  very  fine,  and  cover  the 
bottom  of  a  baking-dish,  previously  buttered,  with  them.  Spread 
a  layer  of  oysters  over  these  crumbs ;  pepper  and  salt  them,  and 
drop  on  hits  of  butter ;  cover  with  a  layer  of  crumbs,  and  thus 
alternate  the  layers  until  your  dish  is  full,  having  the  crumbs 
cover  the  top.  Place  it  then  in  a  hot  oven,  that  the  top  may 
brown  nicely ;  hake  about  twenty  minutes.  No  liquid  is  put  in 
this  dish ;  not  even  the  liquor  of  the  oysters,  for  the  butter  moistens 
it  sufficiently.  A  quart  of  oysters  will  make  a  nice  dish. 

Philip  II.,  of  Spain,  gave  as  a  reason  for  not  eating  fish,  that 
they  “are  nothing  but  element  congealed,  or  a  jelly  of  water.” 

Plain  Oyster  Pie. — Lay  the  oysters  in  your  baking-dish  ;  put 
salt,  pepper,  and  bits  of  butter  to  them ;  sprinkle  a  little  flour 
over  them;  make  a  puff  paste  and  cover  it.  A  small  cup,  in¬ 
verted  and  set  in  the  middle  of  the  dish  before  covering  with  the 
paste,  will  prevent  the  latter  from  settling,  and  makes  it  lighter. 


I' 


FISH.  99 

Rich  Oyster  Pie. — To  one  hundred  and  fifty  oysters  take  eight 
eggs,  two  ounces  of  butter,  with  cloves,  mace,  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  piece  of  stale  bread  grated  fine.  Spread  a  paste  around  the 
sides  of  the  dish.  Season  the  oysters  with  the  spice  to  your  taste. 
Boil  the  eggs  hard,  and  chop  them  fine ;  mix  them  with  the  bread, 
and  stir  all  with  the  oysters,  putting  them  into  the  dish.  Break 
the  butter  into  hits,  and  stir  them  in.  Cover  with  puff  paste. 

ft 

There  is  a  legend,  which  assigns  the  first  act  of  oyster-eating 
to  a  very  natural  cause.  “  A  man,  walking  one  day,  picked  up 
one  of  these  savory  bivalves,  just  as  it  was  in  the  act  of  gaping. 
Observing  the  extreme  smoothness  of  the  interior  of  the  shell,  he 
insinuated  his  finger  between  them,  that  he  might  feel  their 
shining  surface,  when  suddenly  they  closed  upon  the  exploring 
digit  with  a  sensation  less  pleasurable  than  he  anticipated.  The 
prompt  withdrawal  of  his  finger  wTas  scarcely  a  more  natural 
movement  than  its  transfer  to  his  mouth ; — the  result  was  most 
fortunate.  The  owner  of  the  finger  tasted  oyster-juice  for  the 
first  time,  as  the  Chinaman  in  Elia’s  essay,  having  burnt  his 
finger,  first  tasted  cracklin.  The  savor  was  delicious — he  had 
made  a  great  discovery ;  so  he  picked  up  the  oyster,  forced  open 
the  shells,  banqueted  upon  their  contents,  and  soon  brought 
oyster-eating  into  fashion.  And,  unlike  most  fashions,  it  has 
never  gone,  and  is  never  likely  to  go  out.” 

Chowder. — Fry  brown  several  slices  of  pork  ;  cut  each  fish 
into  five  or  six  pieces,  flour,  and  place  a  layer  of  them  in  your 
pork  fat ;  sprinkle  on  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  add  cloves,  mace, 
and  sliced  onions ;  if  liked  lay  on  hits  of  the  fried  pork  and 
crackers  soaked  in  cold  water.  Repeat  this  until  you  put  in  all 
the  fish  ;  turn  on  just  water  enough  to  cover  them.  After  stew¬ 
ing  about  twenty  minutes,  take  up  the  fish,  and  mix  two  tea- 
spoonsful  of  flour  with  a  little  water,  and  stir  it  into  the  gravy, 

1  — 


100  DINNER. 

adding  a  little  pepper  and  butter  .  A  tumbler  of  wine  catsup,  and 
spices  will  improve  it.  Cod  and  bass  make  the  best  chowder. 
In  making  clam  chowder,  the  hard  part  of  the  clam  should  be  cut 
off  and  rejected. 

Daniel  Webster  was  very  skilful  in  the  preparation  of  chow¬ 
der. 

Caviar  is  the  common  name  for  a  preparation  of  the  dried 
spawn,  or  salted  roe  of  fish.  The  black  caviar,  is  made  from  the 
roe  of  sturgeon,  and  a  single  large  fish  will  sometimes  yield  as 
much  as  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds  of  roe.  A  cheaper  and 
less  prized  red  kind,  is  obtained  from  the  roe  of  the  gray  mullet, 
and  some  of  the  carp  species,  which  are  common  in  the  rivers, 
and  on  the  shores  of  the  Black  Sea.  Caviar  is  principally  con¬ 
sumed  in  Russia,  Germany,  and  Italy,  by  the  Greeks,  during  their 
long  fasts,  and  also  in  small  quantities  in  England.  Inferior 
caviar  is  made  into  small  dry  cakes. 

Fish  maws ,  are  the  dried  stomachs  of  fishes,  like  our  cod’s 
sounds  ;  they  are  considered  great  luxuries  by  the  Chinese. 

A  preparation  called  botargo ,  is  made  from  the  spawn  of  a 
kind  of  fine  mullet  of  a  red  color.  The  best  is  made  in  Tunis. 

The  roe  of  the  pollock ,  is  said  to  make  very  good  bread  ;  the 
dried  roe  of  an  enormous  species  of  shad,  which  frequents  a  river 
in  Sumatra,  constitutes  an  article  of  commerce  in  the  East. 

A  favorite  winter  dish  in  Aberdeen,  and  also  in  Limerick,  Ire¬ 
land,  is  “  boiled  haddocks,”  or  “  stappit  heads ;  ”  the  heads  being 
filled  with  a  mixture  of  oatmeal,  onions,  and  pepper  ;  served  with 
drawn  butter. 

There  is  a  tradition  in  Catholic  countries  that  the  haddock  was 
the  fish  out  of  whose  mouth  the  Apostle  took  the  tribute  money  ; 
and  that  the  two  dark  spots  near  its  gills,  preserve  to  this  day  the 
impression  of  his  thumb  and  finger. 


FISH.  101 

Piroga  or  Fish  CaTce. — In  the  pastry  cook  shops  of  Russia,  the 
tempting  morsel  offered  to  Russian  appetites  is  the  piroga,  an  oily 
fish-cake.  Little  benches  are  ranged  round  tables,  on  which  the 
favorite  dainty  is  placed,  covered  over  with  an  oily  canvas,  for  it 
must  be  eaten  hot.  A  large  pot  of  green  oil,  and  a  stand  of  salt 
are  in  readiness,  and  as  soon  as  a  purchaser  demands  a  piroga,  it 
is  withdrawn  from  its  cover,  plunged  into  the  oil,  sprinkled  with 
salt,  and  presented  dripping  to  the  delighted  Muscovite. 

* 

The  Sardine. — That  highly  esteemed  fish,  the  sardine,  is 
found  chiefly  in  the  Mediterranean.  The  small  ones,  caught  on 
the  coast  of  Provence,  in  France,  are  esteemed  the  best.  The 
French  frequently  cure  them  in  red  brine,  and  when  thus  pre¬ 
pared,  designate  them  anchovied  sardines. 

In  1852,  five  hundred  and  seventy-six  millions  of  sardines 
were  taken  on  the  coast  of  Brittany,  which  extends  about  two 
hundred  miles.  Half  of  these  were  sold  fresh,  and  the  other  half 
preserved  in  oil.  The  preparation,  transport,  and  sale  of  the  fish, 
employ  ten  thousand  persons. 

In  Java  and  Sumatra,  a  preparation  of  small  fish,  with  red 
rice,  having  the  appearance  of  anchovies,  and  the  color  of  red 
cabbage,  is  esteemed  a  delicacy.  So  in  India,  the  preparation 
called  “  Tamarind  fish,”  is  much  prized. 

“  The  fish  being  cleaned,  is  cut  up  into  small  pieces  or  junks, 
and  well  mixed  with  tamarinds,  in  a  conserved  state,  but  without 
sugar.  The  mixture  is  then  put  into  jars,  and  in  a  short  time 
the  acid  of  the  tamarind  penetrates  the  fish,  completely  dissolving 
the  bones  and  cartilages,  and  imparting  to  it  a  delicate  garnet 
color,  and  delicious  flavor.  A  piece  of  tamarind  fish  fried  with 
rice,  forms  a  very  agreeable  relish,  and  I  am  surprised  it  has  not 
found  its  way  to  this  country.” — Capt..  Bellew 

Anchovy. — This  small  fish  is  caught  at  several  places  in  the 


DINNER. 


102 

Mediterranean.  Those  taken  at  Gorgona,  are  considered  the  best 
and  receive  their  name  from  this  circumstance.  At  first,  the 
bodies  being  separated  from  the  entrails  and  heads,  are  salted 
and  packed  in  casks  ;  but  on  their  arrival  in  their  destined  port, 
they  are  repacked  in  bottles.  They  are  a  favorite  relish  with 
many  persons,  being  taken  from  the  bottles  and  eaten  raw. 

Baked  fish.-— Make  a  dressing  of  bread  well  chopped  and 
seasoned,  and  stuff  your  fish.  To  keep  it  together,  wind  thread 
or  twine  several  times  around  it ;  lay  two  skewers  on  the  baking 
pan,  and  melt  a  good  piece  of  butter  in  it  before  laying  the  fish 
therein.  The  skewers  are  used  to  prevent  the  fish  burning  on 
the  pan.  Sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  over  your  fish,  and 
spread  bits  of  butter  on  the  top.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven,  that  it 
may  brown  well.  The  fish  should  not  be  turned  over  ;  unless 
very  large  it  will  cook  in  half  an  hour.  Take  it  up  carefully, 
that  you  do  not  break  it.  Then  add  to  the  gravy  in  the  pan  (if 
it  be  not  burned)  more  butter,  a  little  flour  and  water,  boil  it 
up,  pour  over  the  fish,  and  serve.  This  rule  applies  to  bass,  cod, 
pike,  or  white  fish. 

Another  and  very  good  mode  of  preparing  fish,  is  to  rub  the 
back  bone  of  the  fish  after  it  is  well  cleansed,  with  pounded  salt¬ 
petre  ;  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  cloves,  mace,  and  all¬ 
spice.  Put  it  in  a  pan  with  sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  it,  and  set 
it  in  an  oven  to  bake.  If  the  fish  be  very  large,  two  or  three 
hours  may  be  necessary  to  cook  it. 

“  Cardinal  Fesch,  the  uncle  of  Napoleon  the  Great,  had  in¬ 
vited  a  select  party  of  clerical  magnates  to  dinner.  By  a  fortu¬ 
nate  coincidence,  two  turbots  of  singular  beauty  arrived  as  pre¬ 
sents  to  his  eminence  on  the  very  morning  of  the  feast.  To 
serve  them  both  would  have  appeared  ridiculous  ;  but  the  car¬ 
dinal  was  most  anxious  to  have  the  credit  of  both.  He  imparted 


fish.  103 

his  embarrassment  to  his  chef.  1  Be  of  good  cheer,  your  emi 
nence,’  was  the  reply  ;  ‘  both  shall  appear  ;  both  shall  enjoy  the 
reception  which  is  their  due.’  The  dinner  was  served  ;  one  of 
the  turbots  relieved  the  soup,  and  delight  was  in  every  face. 
The  maitre  d’hotel  advances  ;  two  attendants  raise  the  turbot, 
and  carry  him  off  to  cut  him  up.  One  of  them  loses  his  equili¬ 
brium  ;  the  attendants  and  the  turbot  roll  together  upon  the  floor. 
At  this  sad  sight,  the  assembled  cardinals  became  pale  as  death, 
..and  a  solemn  silence  reigned  in  the  conclave.  Intense  disappoint¬ 
ment  was  expressed  on  every  priestly  face.  ‘  Bring  another 
turbot,’  says  the  maitre  d’hotel  to  the  attendant,  with  the  utmost 
coolness.  And  now  intense  delight  took  the  place  of  disappoint¬ 
ment  on  each  cardinal’s  face ;  and  the  host  was  conscious  of 
another  laurel  added  to  his  gastronomic  crown.” 

Both  the  Syrians  and  Egyptians  abstained  from  eating  fish, 
out  of  dread  and  abhorrence  ;  and  when  the  latter  would  repre¬ 
sent  any  thing  as  odious,  or  express  hatred,  by  hieroglyphics,  they 
painted  a  fish. 

The  poissards,  or  fish-women  of  Paris,  form  a  sort  of  body- 
corporate.  In  revolutionary  times  they  have  been  powerful,  not 
only  with  their  tongues,  but  with  weapons ;  they  are  equally 
notorious  for  their  violence,  and  volubility  in  talk.  They  pre¬ 
sented  themselves  in  a  body  at  the  palace  of  Louis  Napoleon 
upon  the  birth  of  the  young  prince,  to  congratulate  the  emperor 
and  to  offer  a  splendid  bouquet  of  flowers  ;  they  were  permitted 
to  enter  the  state  apartment  of  the  infant. 


104 


DINTSTER. 


MEATS. 

- “  Cook,  see  all  your  saw  cos 

Be  sharp  and  poynant  in  the  palate,  that  they  may 
Commend  you ;  look  to  your  roast  and  baked  meats  handsomely, 

And  what  new  kickshaws  and  delicate  made  things.” 

Beaumont  and  Fletchek. 

Rules  for  Roasting  or  Baling  Meat. — In  roasting,  you  should 
have  a  quick  fire,  in  order  to  contract  the  fibres  on  the  surface, 
and  thus  retain  all  the  natural  juices  of  the  meat.  When  this  is 
done  at  first,  an  inward  steam  is  produced,  and  the  meat  is 
cooked  by  its  own  steam,  and,  when  served,  will  be  juicy  and 
nice. 

If,  however,  there  be  a  slow  heat  at  first,  these  juices  are 
started ;  they  all  run  into  the  pan,  and  you  serve  a  dried-up, 
tasteless  dish,  instead  of  the  rich,  savory  one  you  might  have  had. 

After  the  first  heat,  however,  a  more  moderate  fire  is  best, 
that  it  may  cook  gently.  Eoast  meats  should  be  dredged  with 
flour,  just  at  the  time  when  the  gravy  begins  to  appear ;  the  flour 
absorbs  it,  and  forms  a  coating  which  retains  the  juices.  The 
remarks  respecting  heat  more  particularly  apply  to  the  dark 
meats ,  as  beef,  mutton,  and  venison.  Lamb ,  veal,  and  pork,  if 
young  and  tender,  should  be  done  at  a  moderate  fire.  Veal 
I  should  be  covered  with  paper.  Very  rich  meat,  if  covered  with 
paper,  does  not  require  basting.  Fowls  should  be  placed  close  to 
the  fire  to  set  the  skin,  and  in  about  ten  minutes  rubbed  over 
with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  pressed  in  a  spoon.  Hares  and 
small  game  should  be  dredged  with  flour,  as  is  previously  men¬ 
tioned  for  the  roast  meats.  The  French  and  Germans  lard  their 
meats,  which  is  to  introduce  slips  of  salt  pork  under  the  skin  by 
means  of  a  larding  needle,  as  it  is  termed.  It  is  a  great  improve- 


MEATS.  105 

ment  to  lean  meats.  This  needle  is  a  piece  of  steel,  from  six  tc 
nine  inches  long,  pointed  at  one  end  and  having  four  slits  at  the 
other,  which  will  hold  a  strip  of  bacon  between  them.  Cut  the 
pieces  of  bacon  two  or  three  inches  long,  and  a  quarter  to  half  an 
inch  wide,  put  each  one  after  the  other  in  the  pin,  insert  it  in  the 
meat,  and  leave  only  half  an  inch  out. 

“  Louis  XI.,  of  France,  once  took  it  into  his  head  to  visit  the 
.  kitchen,  and  see  what  was  going  forward.  He  there  found  a 
little  fellow,  about  fourteen  years  of  age,  busily  engaged  in  turn¬ 
ing  the  spit  with  roast  meat.  The  youth  was  handsomely  formed, 
and  of  so  engaging  an  appearance,  that  the  king  thought  him  en¬ 
titled  to  some  better  office  than  the  humble  one  he  then  filled. 
Accosting  him,  Louis  asked  whence  he  came,  who  he  was,  and 
what  he  earned  by  his  occupation.  The  turnspit  did  not  know 
the  king,  and  replied  to  his  interrogatories  without  the  least  em¬ 
barrassment  :  1 1  am  from  Berry,  my  name  is  Stephen,  and  I 
earn  as  much  as  the  king.’  ‘  What,  then,  does  the  king  earn  ?  ’ 
asked  Louis.  ‘  His  expenses,’  replied  Stephen,  £  and  I  mine.’ 
By  this  bold  and  ingenious  answer  he  won  the  good  graces  of  the 
monarch,  who  afterwards  promoted  him  to  the  situation  of  groom 
of  the  chamber.” 

Boast  Beef. — Put  the  beef  into  the  pan  with  a  little  water, 
then  set  it  into  a  quick  oven,  but  do  not  season  it  until  it  is  about 
half  cooked  ;  then  take  it  out,  salt,  pepper,  and  flour  it,  return  it 
to  the  oven,  and  after  this,  while  it  is  cooking,  baste  it  frequently. 
It  is  more  tender  when  seasoned  thus  than  if  done  at  first.  The 
time  for  cooking  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  piece,  but  an  hour 
is  sufficient  for  one  weighing  five  or  six  pounds.  If  you  wish  it 
rare,  three  quarters  of  an  hour  will  be  enough. 

It  is  best  to  use  scorched  flour  for  the  gravy,  to  make  it  dark. 
If  the  meat  be  very  fat,  turn  off  the  top  from  the  gravy,  leaving 


106  DINNER. 

the  remainder  for  that  purpose.  Stir  in  a  little  flour,  and  per¬ 
haps  add  a  few  spoonsful  of  water. 

Tomato  sauce  should  he  served  with  the  beef. 

The  Sirloin  of  Beef. — There  is  a  laughable  tradition,  current 
in  Lancashire,  that  King  James  I.,  in  one  of  his  visits  there, 
knighted,  at  a  banquet  in  Houghton  tower,  a  loin  of  beef,  the 
part  ever  since  called  the  sirloin.  The  tradition  is  also  related 
of  Charles  II.  Hence  the  epigram — 

“  Our  second  Charles,  of  fame  facete, 

On  loin  of  meat  did  dine ; 

He  held  his  sword,  pleased,  o’er  the  meat, 

‘  Rise  up,  thou  famed  Sir  Loin.’  ” 

A  Baron  of  Beef. — A  baron  of  beef  is  the  name  of  the  two  sir¬ 
loins  roasted  and  brought  to  the  table  undivided  ;  a  baron  being 
of  twice  the  dignity  of  a  knight.  This  is  now,  as  formerly,  a 
favorite  dish  in  England  at  Christmas,  and  other  great  festivities. 
On  Christmas  day,  a  baron  of  beef  is  enthroned  in  St.  George’s 
Hall  in  Windsor  Castle,  and  is  borne  in  by  lacqueys  in  scarlet 
and  gold. 

Boast  or  Balced  Venison. — Venison  should  be  kept  several  days 
before  cooking.  Prepare  a  nice  dressing  of  bread  crumbs,  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  thyme,  or  summer-savory  ;  then  run  a  sharp  knife 
into  the  meat,  so  as  to  insert  the  stuffing  in  different  places. 
When  this  is  done,  gash  the  upper  side,  sprinkle  salt,  pepper, 
and  flour  over  it,  and  spread  on  butter.  Some  cooks  cover  the 
whole  with  a  thin  crust  of  paste,  to  keep  it  moist  while  roasting. 
But  if  you  put  it  for  the  first  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  to  a  strong 
heat,  this  serves  the  same  purpose,  by  contracting  the  surface, 
after  which  cook  it  slowly.  Baste  it  frequently ;  it  is  sometimes 
basted  with  wine.  Add  wine  or  currant  jelly  to  the  gravy. 


MEATS. 


107 

A  Singular  Spit ■ — The  most  singular  spit  in  the  world  is  that 
of  the  Count  de  Castel  Maria,  one  of  the  most  opulent  lords  of 
Treviso.  This  spit  turns  one  hundred  and  thirty  different  roasts  at 
once,  and  plays  twenty-four  tunes,  and  whatever  it  plays  corre¬ 
sponds  to  a  certain  degree  of  cooking,  which  is  perfectly  under¬ 
stood  by  the  cook.  Thus,  a  leg  of  mutton  d  V  Anglaise,  will  be 
excellent  at  the  twelfth  air  ;  a  fowl  d  la  Flamande ,  will  be  juicy 
at  the  eighteenth,  and  so  on. — Furet  de  Londres. 

In  olden  times  dogs  were  sometimes  employed  as  turnspits. 
The  dog  was  put  upon  a  wheel  connected  with  the  spit,  after  the 
manner  of  the  dog-churns  of  the  present  day.  A  hot  coal  was 
put  upon  it  also,  which,  if  he  stopped  moving  his  feet,  would  burn 
them.  This  wheel  turned  the  spit,  and  often  the  piece  of  meat 
roasting  was  twice  the  weight  of  the  dog. 

Roast  Mutton. — A  leg  of  mutton,  kept  several  days,  until  it  is 
tender,  and  then  dressed  after  the  manner  of  venison,  is  nearly 
as  good  as  the  latter. 

“  A  person  would  pay  a  crown  at  any  time  for  a  venison 
ordinary ;  but  after  having  dined  on  veal  or  mutton,  he  would 
not  give  a  penny  to  have  had  it  venison.” — Sterne. 

It  is  the  custom  in  Egypt  and  other  hot  climates,  to  cook  the 
meat  as  soon  as  killed,  with  the  same  view  of  making  it  tender, 
which  makes  northern  people  keep  it  until  decomposition  is  be¬ 
ginning.  This  explains  the  order  of  Joseph,  to  “  slay  and  make 
ready  ”  for  his  brethren. 

The  Kit-Fat  Club. — “  One  of  the  most  widely  famed  clubs  of 
the  last  century  was  the  Kit-Kat  club,  which,  originating  in  the 
determination  to  meet  periodically,  for  the  laudable  and  social 
purpose  of  discussing  the  super-excellent  mutton  pies  manufactured 
by  Mr.  Christopher  Fat, — resulted  in  what  in  these  days  would  be 
called  a  Reform  Club.” — Chron.  of  Fashion. 


DINNER. 


108 

Roast  Veal. — Prepare  a  dressing  the  same  as  for  venison  ;  run 
a  sharp  knife  into  the  small  end  of  the  leg  next  the  bone,  run  it 
round  until  you  have  made  an  opening  large  enough  to  hold  your 
dressing;  force  it  in,  then  run  your  knife  across  the  round  in 
gashes  ;  then  pepper,  salt,  butter,  and  flour  it.  While  it  cooks, 
baste  frequently,  and  when  served,  make  a  good  gravy.  Lamb 
may  be  prepared  in  the  same  ivay,  but  it  does  not  require  much 
dressing.  A  good  way  to  serve  roast  veal  for  a  second  day’s 
dinner,  is  to  cover  it  entirely  with  a  plain  pie  crust,  having  first 
laid  on  strips  of  salt  pork.  Bake  it  well,  and  when  you  serve  cut 
each  slice  through  crust  and  meat. 

A  French  Cook's  triumph  over  the  vatural  difficulties  of  Veal. — 
“  A  French  officer  undertook,  for  a  wager,  to  produce  a  soldier 
in  his  company  who  would  eat  a  calf  of  a  certain  age.  The  bet 
was  accepted.  The  soldier,  without  any  reluctance,  undertook  to 
do  his  best,  and  the  day  and  hour  were  fixed  for  the  trial.  The 
carcase  of  the  calf  was  handed  over  to  an  artist,  with  instructions 
to  do  his  best  with  it,  but  religiously  to  serve  up  the  whole.  At 
the  appointed  tune  it  appeared  on  table  in  a  variety  of  costumes, 
all  more  or  less  inviting.  With  a  light  heart  and  a  lively  coun¬ 
tenance,  the  soldier  addressed  himself  to  his  task.  Dish  after 
dish  disappeared  before  him,  as  he  commended  their  flavor,  and 
talked  gayly  of  the  affairs  of  the  day.  The  commencement  was  a 
prosperous  one,  and  delighted  his  backer.  In  this  easy,  trifling 
manner,  more  than  half  the  table  was  cleared,  when,  to  the  dis¬ 
may  of  his  captain,  the  soldier  paused,  and  laid  down  his  knife 
and  fork.  It  was  a  moment  of  terrible  suspense.  The  opposite 
party,  who  had  been  losing  heart  during  these  earlier  operations, 
now  began  to  glow  with  new  hope.  But  the  triumph  was  short¬ 
lived.  ‘  Mon  capitaine,’  said  the  soldier,  with  all  imaginable 
vivacity,  neither  his  voice  nor  his  countenance  indicating  any  thing 
like  repletion,  ‘  these  entremets  are  really  very  seductive,  but  if  I 


MEATS.  109 

eat  any  more  of  them  I  shall  spoil  my  appetite  for  the  calf.’  The 
result  need  not  he  declared.  In  England,  the  unfortunate  man 
would  have  sat  down  to  loins  and  fillets,  and  would  have  either 
broken  down  before  these  mountains  of  solid  flesh,  or  died  of  an 
indigestion.” — North  British  Review. 

Veal  Cutlet. — Cut  the  veal  in  good,  fair  slices  ;  heat  an  egg, 
and  after  dipping  each  slice  in  the  egg,  turn  it  in  flour,  or  rolled 
crackers,  which  is  best ;  salt  and  pepper  them,  and  fry  them  in 
hot  butter.  When  the  meat  is  cooked  and  taken  up,  add  more 
butter  to  the  gravy,  dredge  to  it  a  little  flour,  with  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  water ;  let  it  boil,  then  pour  over  the  meat,  and  serve. 

Commons. — “  In  the  old  times,  at  colleges,  meals  were  taken 
in  a  hall  of  the  college,  and  provided  by  the  authorities.  This 
was  called  living  in  commons.  On  Mondays  and  Thursdays,  the 
meat  was  boiled  ;  these  were  called  ‘  boiling  days.’  On  other 
days  the  meat  was  roasted ;  these  were  *  roasting  days.’  Two 
potatoes  were  allowed  to  each  person.  On  ‘boiling  days,’  pud¬ 
ding  and  cabbage  were  added  to  the  bill  of  fare,  and,  in  the 
season,  greens — either  dandelion  or  green  peas,  and  bread. 
Cider  was  the  beverage.  No  regular  supper  Avas  provided,  but  a 
boAvl  of  bread  and  milk  supplied  the  place  of  the  evening  meal. 
The  butter  was  sometimes  so  bad  that  a  farmer  would  not  take  it 
to  grease  his  cart-wheels  Avith. 

“  It  was  the  usual  practice  of  the  steward,  when  veal  Avas 
cheap,  to  furnish  it  to  the  students  three,  four,  and  sometimes 
five  times  in  a  Aveek  ;  the  same  Avith  reference  to  lamb.  The 
students,  after  eating  this  latter  kind  of  meat  for  five  or  six  suc¬ 
cessive  Aveeks,  Avould  often  assemble  before  the  steward’s  house, 
and,  as  if  their  natures  had  been  changed  by  their  diet,  Avould 
bleat  and  blatter  until  he  was  fain  to  promise  them  a  change  of 
food,  upon  Avhich  they  Avould  separate,  until  a  recurrence  of  the 
same  evil  compelled  them  to  the  same  measures.” 


110  DINNER. 

Roast  Pig. — Sprinkle  the  pig  with  fine  salt,  an  hour  before  you 
prepare  the  stuffing.  Make  a  nice  stuffing,  as  for  a  turkey. 
Salt,  pepper,  and  flour  the  pig,  and  roast  it  in  a  steady  oven,  one 
not  too  hot,  or  it  will  blister  and  deface  its  beauty ;  but  so  as  to 
give  it  a  light  hrown,  crispy  appearance.  The  feet  must  be  pre¬ 
viously  taken  off  at  the  first  joint,  and  boiled  with  the  heart  and 
liver.  When  the  eyes  drop  out,  the  pig  is  half  cooked  ;  when  it 
is  nearly  done,  baste  it  with  butter.  A  pig  of  medium  size  will 
cook  in  three  hours.  When  done,  take  off  the  head,  open  it,  and 
take  out  the  brains  ;  chop  them  with  the  heart  and  liver  ;  work 
butter  and  a  little  flour  together,  and  stir  with  the  former  in  a 
sauce-pan,  with  boiling  water,  for  gravy.  Add  to  it  the  drippings 
from  the  pan,  and  season  it  with  sweet  marjoram  and  sage. 

Many  people  do  not  remove  the  head  before  placing  it  on  the 
table,  as  the  pig  looks  better  whole.  In  that  case,  make  the 
gravy  without  the  brains. 

A  Dissertation  upon  Roast  Pig. — Mankind,  says  a  Chinese 
manuscript,  (which  my  friend  M.  was  obliging  enough  to  read 
and  explain  to  me,)  for  the  first  seventy  thousand  ages,  ate  their 
meat  raw,  clawing  or  biting  it  from  the  living  animal  just  as  they 
do  in  Abyssinia  to  this  day. 

The  art  of  roasting,  or  rather  broiling,  (which  I  take  to  be  the 
elder  brother,)  was  accidentally  discovered  in  the  manner  followT- 
ing  :  The  swine-herd  Ho-ti,  having  gone  out  into  the  woods  one 
morning,  as  his  manner  was,  to  collect  mast  for  his  hogs,  left 
his  cottage  in  the  care  of  his  eldest  son,  Bo-bo,  a  great  lubberly 
boy,  who,  being  fond  of  playing  with  fire,  let  some  sparks  escape 
into  a  bundle  of  straw,  wrhich,  kindling  quickly,  spread  the  con¬ 
flagration  over  every  part  of  their  poor  mansion,  till  it  was  re¬ 
duced  to  ashes.  Together  with  the  cottage,  what  was  of  much 
more  importance,  a  fine  litter  of  new  farrowed  pigs,  no  less  than 
nine  in  number,  perished.  China  pigs  have  been  esteemed  a 


MEATS.  Ill 

luxury  all  over  the  East,  from  the  remotest  periods  we  read  of. 
Bo-bo  was  in  the  utmost  consternation,  as  you  may  think,  not  so 
much  for  the  sake  of  the  tenement,  which  his  father  and  he  could 
easily  build  up  again  with  a  few  dry  branches,  and  the  labor  of 
an  hour  or  two,  at  any  time,  as  for  the  loss  of  the  pigs.  While 
ho  was  thinking  what  he  should  say  to  his  father,  and  wringing 
his  hands,  an  odor  assailed  his  nostrils  unlike  any  scent  which  he 
had  before  experienced.  What  could  it  proceed  from  ?  not  from 
•  the  burnt  cottage  ;  he  had  smelt  that  before,  indeed  this  was  by 
no  means  the  first  accident  of  the  kind  which  had  occurred 
through  the  negligence  of  this  unlucky  firebrand.  A  premoni¬ 
tory  moistening  at  the  same  time  overflowed  his  nether  lips, 
lie  knew  not  what  to  think.  lie  next  stooped  down  to  feel  the 
pig  if  there  were  any  signs  of  life  in  it.  He  burnt  his  fingers, 
and  to  cool  them  he  applied  them  in  his  booby  fashion  to  his  mouth. 
Some  of  the  crumbs  of  the  scorched  skin  had  come  away  with  his 
fingers,  and  for  the  first  time  in  his  life  (in  the  world’s  life,  in¬ 
deed,  for  before  him  no  man  had  known  it)  he  tasted — crackling  ! 
Again  ho  felt  and  fumbled  at  the  pig.  It  did  not  burn  him  so 
much  now  ;  still  he  licked  his  fingers  from  a  sort  of  habit.  The 
truth  at  length  broke  into  his  slow  understanding,  that  it  was  the 
pig  that  smelt  so,  and  the  pig  that  tasted  so  delicious  ;  and  sur¬ 
rendering  himself  up  to  the  new-born  pleasure,  he  fell  to  tearing 
up  whole  handsful  of  the  scorched  skin  with  the  flesh  next  it,  and 
was  cramming  it  down  his  throat  in  his  beastly  fashion,  when  his 
sire  entered  amid  the  smoking  rafters,  and  finding  how  affairs 
stood,  began  to  rain  blows  upon  the  young  rogue’s  shoulders,  as 
thick  as  hailstones,  which  Bo-bo  heeded  not  any  more  than  if 
they  had  been  flies.  The  tickling  pleasure  which  lie  experienced 
in  his  lower  regions,  had  rendered  him  quite  callous  to  any  in¬ 
conveniences  he  might  feel  in  those  remote  quarters.  Bo-bo’s 
scent  being  wonderfully  sharpened  since  morning,  soon  raked  out 
another  pig,  and  fairly  rending  it  asunder,  thrust  the  lesser  half 


DINNER. 


112 

by  main  force  into  the  fists  of  Ho-ti,  still  shouting  out,  “  Eat,  eat ; 
eat  the  burnt  pig,  father ;  only  taste.” 

In  conclusion,  (for  the  manuscript  here  is  a  little  tedious,) 
both  father  and  son  fairly  sat  down  to  the  mess,  and  never  left 
off,  till  they  had  despatched  all  that  remained  of  the  litter. 

Bo-bo  was  strictly  enjoined  not  to  let  the  secret  escape; 
nevertheless,  strange  stories  got  about.  It  was  observed  that 
Ho-ti’s  cottage  was  burnt  down  now  more  frequently  than  ever. 
As  often  as  the  sow  farrowed,  so  sure  was  the  house  of  Ho-ti  to 
be  in  a  blaze.  At  length  they  were  watched,  the  terrible  mystery 
discovered,  and  father  and  son  summoned  to  take  their  trial  at 
Peking,  then  an  inconsiderable  assize  town.  Evidence  was  given, 
the  obnoxious  food  itself  produced  in  court,  and  verdict  about  to 
be  pronounced,  when  the  foreman  of  the  jury,  begged  that  some 
of  the  burnt  pig,  of  which  the  culprits  stood  accused,  might  be 
handed  into  the  box.  He  handled  it,  and  they  all  handled  it,  and 
burning  their  fingers,  as  Bo-bo  and  his  father  had  done  before 
them,  and  nature  prompting  to  each  of  them  the  same  remedy, 
against  the  face  of  all  the  facts,  and  the  clearest  charge,  which 
judge  had  ever  given,  to  the  surprise  of  the  whole  court,  towns¬ 
folk,  strangers,  reporters,  and  all  present,  without  leaving  the 
box,  or  any  manner  of  consultation  whatever,  they  brought  in  a 
simultaneous  verdict  of  not  guilty, 

The  judge,  who  was  a  shrewd  fellow,  winked  at  the  manifest 
iniquity  of  the  decision  ;  and  when  the  court  was  dismissed,  went 
privately  and  bought  up  all  the  pigs,  that  could  be  had  for  love 
or  money.  In  a  few  days  his  lordship’s  town-house  was  observed 
to  be  on  fire.  The  thing  took  wing,  and  now  there  was  nothing 
to  be  seen  but  fires  in  every  direction.  Euel  and  pigs  grew 
enormously  dear  all  over  the  district.  The  insurance  offices  one 
and  all  shut  up  shop.  At  length  a  discovery  was  made  that  the 
flesh  of  swine,  or  indeed  of  any  other  animal,  might  be  cooked, 
without  the  necessity  of  consuming  a  whole  house  to  dress  it. 


MEATS. 


113 

Then  first  began  the  rude  form  of  a  gridiron.  Roasting  by  the 
string  or  spit,  came  in  a  century  or  two  later,  I  forget  in  whose 
dynasty.  Without  placing  too  implicit  faith  in  the  account  above 
given,  it  must  be  agreed,  that  if  a  worthy  pretext  for  so  danger¬ 
ous  an  experiment  as  setting  houses  on  fire,  could  be  assigned  in 
favor  of  any  culinary  object,  that  pretext  and  excuse  might  be 
found  in  roast  pig. 

Of  all  delicacies  in  the  whole  mundus  edibilis,  I  will  maintain 
it  to  be  the  most  delicate — princeps  obsoniorum.  I  speak  not 
of  your  grown  porkers,  things  between  pig  and  pork,  but  a  young 
and  tender  suckling,  under  a  moon  old,  guiltless  as  yet  of  the 
sty. 

He  must  be  roasted.  I  am  not  ignorant  that  our  ancestors 
ate  them  seethed,  or  boiled,  but  what  a  sacrifice  of  the  exterior 
tegumen  !  There  is  no  flavor  comparable,  I  will  contend,  to  that 
of  the  crisp,  tawny,  well  watched,  not  over  roasted,  crackling  as 
it  is  well  called  ;  the  very  teeth  are  invited  to  their  share  of  the 
pleasure  of  this  banquet  in  overcoming  the  coy,  brittle  resistance, 
with  the  adhesive  oleaginous — oh,  call  it  not  fat,  but  an  indefin¬ 
able  sweetness  growing  up  to  it ;  the  tender  blossoming  of  flit — 
fat  cropped  in  the  bud — fat  and  lean  so  blended  and  running  into 
each  other,  that  both  together  make  but  one  ambrosial  result  or 
common  substance.  Behold  him  while  he  is  doing — it  seemeth 
rather  a  refreshing  warmth,  than  a  scorching  heat,  that  he  is  so 
passive  to.  How  equably  he  twirleth  round  the  skin  !  Now  ho 
is  just  done. 

See  him  on  the  dish,  his  second  cradle,  how  meek  he  lieth  ! 
Wouldst  thou  have  had  this  innocent  grow  up  to  the  grossness 
and  indocility  which  too  often  accompany  maturer  swinehood  1 

Our  ancestors  were  nice  in  their  method  of  sacrificing  these 
tender  victims.  We  read  of  pigs  whipped  to  death,  with  some¬ 
thing  of  a  shock,  as  we  hear  of  any  other  obsolete  custom.  It 
would  be  curious  to  inquire  what  effect  this  process  might  have 


DINNER. 


J 14 

towards  intenerating  and  dulcifying  a  substance,  naturally  so  mild 
and  dulcet  as  the  flesh  of  young  pigs.  It  looks  like  refining  a 
violet.  Yet  we  should  be  cautious,  while  we  condemn  the  inhu¬ 
manity,  how  we  censure  the  wisdom  of  the  practice.  It  might 
impart  a  gusto. 

Ilis  sauce  should  be  considered.  Decidedly,  a  few  bread 
crumbs,  done  up  with  his  liver  and  brains,  and  a  dash  of  mild 
sage.  But,  banish,  dear  Mrs.  Cook,  I  beseech  you,  the  whole 
onion  tribe.  Barbecue  your  whole  hogs  to  your  palate,  steep  them 
in  shalots,  stuff  them  out  with  the  rank  and  guilty  garlic :  you 
cannot  poison  them,  or  make  them  stronger  than  they  arc, — but 
consider,  he  is  a  weakling,  a  flower. — Lamb’s  Essays. 

In  the  year  1GG1,  a  gathering  of  nobility  and  gentry  took 
place  at  Newcastle,  England,  to  celebrate  a  great  anniversary, 
when,  on  account  of  the  number  of  guests,  each  was  required  to 
bring  his  own  dish  of  meat.  Of  course  there  was  a  sort  of  com¬ 
petition,  in  which  each  strove  for  pre-eminence  ;  but  the  specimen 
of  Sir  George  Goring,  was  considered  the  masterpiece.  “  It  con¬ 
sisted  of  four  huge ,  brawny  pigs ,  piping  hot,  bitted  and  harnessed 
with  ropes  of  sausage ,  all  tied  to  a  monstrous  bag -puddingy 

Roast  Pork. — Pork  should  be  well  sprinkled  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  flour,  and  then  roasted  before  a  good  fire,  or  in  a  quick  oven, 
with  but  little  water  in  the  dripping-pan.  Pork  needs  more 
cooking  than  any  other  meat.  To  ascertain  when  it  is  done, 
thrust  a  fork  into  it,  and  if  the  blood  does  not  follow  it,  it  is 
sufficiently  cooked.  Turn  off  the  fat ;  stir  a  little  flour  and 
water  to  the  gravy  and  season  to  your  taste.  Scorched  flour  is 
best  for  gravies.  Apple  sauce  is  the  proper  accompaniment. 

Baked  Pork  and  Beans. — Wash  a  quart  of  dried  beans 
thoroughly,  and  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water  ; 
add  also  a  pound  of  rather  lean  salt  pork,  with  the  rind  cut  into 


MEATS. 


115 

several  rows.  When  the  water  becomes  scalding  hot,  change  it 
by  pouring  the  beans  into  a  cullender,  and  thus  draining  off  the 
water.  Replace  them  in  the  kettle,  throw  in  a  bit  of  saleratus 
the  size  of  a  pea,  pour  on  cold  water,  and  let  them  boil  again. 

Change  the  water  thus  four  times ,  and  then  let  them  boil 
until  they  are  soft.  Now  take  all  up  into  a  deep  baking  dish, 
with  only  the  rind  of  the  pork  exposed  at  the  top.  Pepper  well, 
and  bake  until  brown.  It  is  well,  if  convenient,  to  soak  the 
beans  over  night.  They  make  a  good  dish  when  cooked  without 
the  pork  ;  they  then  should  have  a  little  butter  to  season  them. 

Roast  Turkey. — After  properly  washing  the  turkey,  if  it  be 
an  old  one,  parboil  it  by  laying  it  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  with  a 
little  salt  in  it,  and  leaving  it  over  the  fire  until  the  water  be¬ 
comes  scalding  hot ;  a  young  turkey  should  not  be  scalded. 
Then  take  it  out  and  stuff  it  with  a  dressing  previously  prepared. 
For  dressing ,  chop  bread  fine,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  sw'eet 
marjoram  or  summer-savory,  and  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg; 
some  cooks  add  an  egg  also.  W et  the  dressing  with  a  little 
milk,  add  half  a  dozen  raw  oysters  to  it,  and  stuff  the  turkey. 
Sew  up  the  opening  with  two  or  three  stitches  of  coarse  thread. 
Lay  the  turkey  on  the  pan,  and  if  you  like,  truss  it  by  passing 
skewers  under  the  legs,  and  tying  the  wings  together  over  the 
back.  Dredge  it  well  with  flour,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  unless  the 
turkey  be  very  fat,  lay  bits  of  butter  upon  it.  Pour  a  little  hot 
water  into  the  pan,  and  set  the  turkey  into  the  oven.  A  large 
turkey  requires  two  hours  to  roast,  and  sometimes  longer.  Al¬ 
ways  watch  it  carefully,  that  it  may  neither  bum  nor  dry  down, 
and  replenish  the  water  in  the  pan  when  necessary,  from  the  hot 
tea-kettle.  Baste  frequently. 

In  the  mean  time,  boil  the  gizzard,  liver,  and  heart  in  a  sauce¬ 
pan,  and  when  tender,  chop  them  fine ;  work  with  them  a  little 
flour  and  butter.  When  the  turkey  is  cooked  tender,  which  you 


DINNER. 


116 

will  ascertain  by  trying  it  with  a  fork,  take  it  upon  a  platter. 
Skim  the  fat  from  the  gravy  in  the  dripping-pan,  and  then  add  the 
remainder  to  the  gravy  of  the  liver,  etc.,  before  prepared.  Lay 
into  the  gravy  a  few  oysters,  stir  it  until  it  boils  a  minute  or  two, 
and  then  serve. 

A  turkey  when  well-cooked,  should  be  evenly  browned  all 
over.  Cranberry  sauce  or  Currant  jelly  is  the  proper  accom¬ 
paniment. 

There  is  a  Greek  proverb,  that  the  persons  at  a  social  repast 
should  not  be  less  in  number  than  the  Graces,  nor  more  than  the 
Muses. 

Sydney  Smith,  so  famous  for  his  brilliant  social  qualities,  says, 
“  Most  London  dinners  evaporate  in  whispers  to  one’s  next  door 
neighbor.  I  make  it  a  rule  never  to  speak  a  word  to  mine,  but 
fire  across  the  table.” 

Roast  Chickens. — Wash  them  thoroughly  and  sprinkle  a  little 
salt  inside  of  them.  Stuff  them  as  you  do  a  turkey,  and  wind 
around  each  a  strong  thread  to  keep  it  in  shape.  Salt,  pepper, 
and  flour  them,  and  spread  bits  of  butter  over  them.  Lay  skew¬ 
ers  across  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  place  your  chickens  thereon, 
pour  a  little  water  in  the  pan  and  cook  in  a  quick  oven.  Baste 
frequently,  and  see  that  the  chickens  are  evenly  browned.  Make 
the  gravy  as  in  the  roast  turkey,  with  or  without  oysters ;  though 
the  latter  are  always  an  improvement,  yet  they  are  not  essential. 
Half  or  three  quarters  of  an  hour  will  usually  cook  them.  If  the 
fowls  are  old  and  tough,  they  should  be  parboiled  previous  to 
roasting. 

“  The  capon  burns,  the  pig  falls  from  the  spit ; 

The  clock  hath  struck  twelve  upon  the  bell ; 

My  mistress  made  it  one  upon  my  cheek — 

She  is  so  hot,  because  the  meat  is  cold ; 

The  meat  is  cold  because  you  come  not  home. 


MEATS. 


117 

Methinks  your  maw,  like  mine,  should  be  your  clock, 

And  strike  you  home  without  a  messenger. 

My  charge  was  but  to  fetch  you  from  the  mart 
Home  to  your  house,  the  Phoenix,  sir,  to  dinner — 

My  mistress  and  her  sister  stay  for  you.” 

Comedy  of  Errors. 

Roast  Goose ,  ( after  the  German  mode.) — Rub  the  goose 
over  night  with-  salt,  pepper,  sage,  thyme,  and  sweet  marjoram, 
inside  and  out ;  in  the  morning  prepare  the  dressing  as  follows. 
A  large  handful  of  stoned  raisins,  and  Zante  currants,  to  bread¬ 
crumbs,  a  couple  of  sour  apples  chopped  fine,  and  one  mealy  po¬ 
tato,  with  butter  mixed  in,  and  all  well  rolled  together  ;  but  put 
no  spices  in  the  dressing.  For  the  gravy,  boil  the  giblets  in  a 
little  water  and  mash  the  liver  in  a  spoonful  of  flour,  chop  the 
gizzard,  stir  these  in  the  liquid  they  were  boiled  in,  add  it  to  the 
gravy  in  the  dripping-pan,  sprinkle  in  a  little  thyme,  sage,  and 
sweet  marjoram,  and  it  is  done.  Serve  the  gravy  separately. 

When  the  goose  is  cooked  and  served,  garnish  it  with  sliced 
lemons,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  green  parsley. 

Roast  Goose. — If  the  goose  be  an  old  one,  put  it  in  a  pot  with 
cold  water,  and  let  it  remain  until  the  water  becomes  boiling 
hot ;  then  take  it  out,  put  an  onion  inside  of  it,  but  no  other 
dressing.  Roast  it  then,  watching  it  that  it  do  not  get  too  much 
browned.  If  the  gravy  be  too  fat,  as  is  generally  the  case,  take 
off  the  top,  sprinkle  in  a  little  flour,  and,  if  you  like,  add  a  few 
oysters ;  let  it  boil  up,  and  serve. 

Onions  and  apple-sauce  are  the  peculiar  accompaniments  of  a 
goose. 

The  goose  is  not  much  valued  in  France  as  a  dish,  and  seldom 
appears  upon  the  tables  of  Parisian  epicures.  They  esteem  the 
flesh  coarse  and  unwholesome ;  but  they  prize  the  livers  highly, 
when  made  into  pies  and  truffled  ;  pates  de  foies  gras  are  considered 


DINNER. 


118 

very  delicate,  and  a  great  luxury ;  yet  nothing  can  be  more  un¬ 
wholesome,  since  these  enlarged  livers  are  the  consequence  of 
disease.  This  dish  has  proved  fatal  to  many  epicures. 

Roast  Dudes. — A  pair  of  young  ducks  make  a  very  nice 
dinner.  They  require  no  stuffing.  Put  a  raw  onion  inside  of 
each,  as  this  adds  to  the  flavor.  If  they  are  not  fat,  spread  a 
little  butter  over  them,  or  a  slice  of  salt  pork,  after  they  are 
dredged  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Eoast  half  an  hour  in  a 
quick  oven.  Serve  with  onions,  potatoes,  and  apple-sauce. 

Boiled  Turkey. — Stuff  your  turkey  as  for  roasting ;  put  it  in 
boiling  wrater,  and  boil  it  slowly.  An  hour  and  a  half  will  be 
sufficient  to  boil  it,  if  it  be  a  small  one.  For  gravy ,  dip  out  half 
a  pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  turkey  was  boiled.  Work  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour  into  a  small  cup  of  butter,  stir  it  into  the 
sauce-pan,  add  a  pint  of  oysters,  salt,  etc.,  to  your  taste ;  let  it 
boil  two  or  three  minutes,  and  serve.  A  boiled  turkey  is  some¬ 
times  served  with  the  melted  butter  poured  over  it,  and  garnished 
with  parsley ;  but  when  there  are  oysters  in  the  gravy  it  should 
be  served  separately. 

Boiled  Chicken  with  Rice. — ( Southern  Mode.) — Boil  the  chicken 
in  sufficient  water  to  cover  it ;  when  it  is  tender,  take  it  up  and 
throw  into  the  kettle  of  the  soup  a  tea-cup  of  rice,  or  more,  ac¬ 
cording  to  the  size  of  the  chicken  ;  when  the  rice  is  cooked,  lay 
the  chicken  back  in  the  kettle,  leaving  it  until  it  is  well  heated 
again  ;  then  serve  it  on  a  platter,  the  chicken  being  entirely  cov¬ 
ered  with  the  rice. 

A  Spanish  Sauce. — “  To  White  Hall,  where  I  stayed  till  the 
Duke  of  York  came  from  hunting,  which  he  did  by-and-by,  and, 
when  dressed,  did  come  out  to  dinner,  and  there  I  waited ;  and 


MEATS.  110 

lie  did  magnify  mightily  his  sauce,  which  he  did  then  eat,  with 
every  thing,  and  said  it  was  the  best  universal  sauce  in  the  world, 
it  being  taught  him  by  the  Spanish  ambassador.  Made  of  some 
parsley  and  a  dry  toast,  beat  in  a  mortar,  together  with  vinegar, 
salt,  and  a  little  pepper  ;  he  eats  it  with  flesh,  or  fowl,  or  fish.” 
The  duke  commends  some  Navarre  wine,  “but  I  did  like  better 
the  notion  of  the  sauce,  and  by-and-by  did  taste  it,  and  liked  it 
mightily.” — Pepys. 

Partridge. — If  it  is  to  be  baked  in  an  oven,  put  it  in  a  proper 
pan  or  baking-dish ;  salt,  pepper,  and  butter  it  well ;  bake  half  an 
hour,  basting  it  frequently.  Serve  currant  jelly  with  it. 

A  Canadian  receipt  for  cooking  a  Partridge,  which  may  be  useful 
to  Sportsmen  and  Travellers. — “  Expedition  is  the  maxim  of  all 
sylvan  cookery,  and  as  plucking  the  feathers  of  a  partridge  would 
be  too  great  a  tax  on  the  time  and  patience  of  the  voyager,  the 
method  most  in  vogue  is  to  run  your  hunting-knife  round  his 
throat  and  ankles,  and  down  his  breast,  when,  taking  a  leg  in 
each  hand,  and  pressing  your  thumb  into  his  back,  you  pop  him 
out  of  his  skin,  as  you  would  a  pea  from  its  pod.  Then  make  a 
spread-eagle  of  him  on  a  forked  twig,  the  other  extremity  of 
which  is  thrust  into  the  ground,  and  after  wrapping  a  rasher  of 
bacon  around  his  neck,  and  under  his  wings,  as  ladies  wear  a 
-scarf,  you  incline  him  to  the  fire,  turning  the  spit  in  the  ground, 
and  you  will  have  a  result  such  as  Soyer  might  be  proud  of. 

“  When  your  other  avocations  will  not  afford  time  even  for 
the  skinning  process,  an  alternative  mode  is  to  make  a  paste  of 
ashes  and  water,  and  roll  up  the  bird  therein,  with  the  feathers 
and  all  the  appurtenances  thereof,  and  thrust  the  performance 
into  the  fire.  In  due  time,  on  breaking  the  cemented  shell, 
(which  is  like  a  sugared  almond,)  the  feathers,  skin,  etc.,  adhere 
to  it,  and  then  you  have  the  pure  kernel  of  poultry  within.” 


120  DINNER. 

Snipe. — The  yellow-leggecl  snipe  is  in  this  country  considered 
the  best  species  for  the  table.  They  should  he  larded  and  roasted 
in  hunches  of  three,  and  served  in  gravy  made  from  their  own 
unctuous  drippings.  There  are  few  side-dishes  more  popular 
with  epicures  than  snipe  on  toast.  Some  cooks  stuff  them  with  a 
composition  of  bread  crumbs  and  egg,  highly  seasoned ;  hut  others 
think  them  far  better  without  this  kind  of  “  trimmings.” 

“  The  poet  Moore  was  sure  to  have  four  or  five  invitations  to 
dinner  on  the  same  day,  and  he  often  tormented  himself  with  the 
idea  that  he  had  not  perhaps  accepted  the  most  exclusive.  He 
would  get  off  from  an  engagement  with  a  countess  to  dine  with  a 
marchioness,  and  from  an  engagement  with  a  marchioness  to 
accept  the  later  invitation  of  a  duchess  ;  and  as  he  cared  little 
for  the  society  of  men,  and  would  sing  and  be  delighted  only  for 
the  applause  of  women,  it  mattered  little  whether  one  circle  was 
more  talented  than  another.” 

Rules  for  Boiling  Meat. — All  fresh  meat  should  be  put  on  to 
cook  in  boiling  water ;  then  the  outer  part  contracts,  and  the  in¬ 
ternal  juices  are  prevented  from  running  out  in  the  water  and 
thus  wasted.  This  is  the  point  to  he  attained  in  making  soup — 
to  have  all  the  juices  extracted ;  hut  where  the  meat  is  to  he 
eaten,  it  is  desirable  that  all  of  its  goodness  he  retained.  If  the 
meat  were  put  over  the  fire  in  cold  water,  and  then  slowly  came 
to  the  boil,  the  juices  would  he  extracted,  and  it  would  remain 
dry  and  tasteless. 

On  the  contrary,  all  salt  meat  should  he  put  into  cold  water, 
in  order  that,  by  its  slow  cooking,  the  salt  may  he  extracted. 

To  Boil  a  Calf's  Head. — Put  in  the  kettle  of  cold  water,  a  piece 
of  salt  pork  about  six  inches  square.  Set  it  over  the  fire,  and 
when  the  water  becomes  hot  put  in  the  head ,  heart ,  and  lights. 


MEATS.  12i 

These  should  hoil  two  hours.  The  pork  will  boil  in  one  hour,  and 
must  then  be  taken  out  of  the  kettle.  Look  over  the  brains  care¬ 
fully,  take  out  all  the  veins,  wash  it  well,  and  lay  it  in  a  cloth  ; 
sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  summer-savory,  and  a  handful  of  bread  crumbs 
over  it ;  tie  it  up  tight  in  the  cloth,  and  lay  it  in  the  pot  when 
you  take  the  pork  out ;  also  put  in  the  liver  at  this  time,  thus 
allowing  one  hour  for  these  last  to  boil. 

When  all  is  cooked,  take  the  different  parts  out  of  the  kettle 
carefully,  to  keep  the  pieces  as  whole  as  possible.  Remove  the 
bones  from  the  head ;  these  will  come  out  easily.  Skin  the 
tongue,  and  place  all  together  on  the  platter. 

For  sauce ,  work  together  half  a  cup  of  butter  and  a  large 
spoonful  of  flour ;  dip  a  pint  of  the  pot-liquor  into  a  sauce-pan  ; 
add  the  butter  and  flour  to  it,  and,  when  this  boils,  open  the 
cloth  containing  the  brains,  put  them  into  a  plate,  cut  them  fine, 
and  add  them  to  the  gravy.  Stir  it  round  gently,  and  serve. 

Receipt  for  Curing  Beef. — To  twenty-five  lbs.  of  beef  take  two 
pints  of  salt,  one  pint  of  molasses,  one  table-spoon  of  saltpetre. 
Pour  the  pickle  while  hot  over  the  beef ;  there  must  be  sufficient 
pickle  to  cover  the  whole. 

Boiled  Corned  Beef — Put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  kettle  of  cold 
water,  let  it  boil  slowly  till  tender  ;  when  it  pricks  easily  with  a 
fork,  it  is  cooked.  Serve  it  with  potatoes,  turnips,  etc. 

If  you  do  not  wish  it  to  be  eaten  when  warm,  the  following 
method  of  preparing  it  is  an  excellent  one,  and  saves  all  the  nu¬ 
tritious  qualities  of  the  beef.  After  the  beef  has  boiled  sufficiently 
tender  to  remove  the  bones  easily,  take  it  up,  remove  the  bones, 
pack  the  meat  by  itself  in  a  deep  dish,  mixing  well  together  the 
fat  and  lean  portions.  Next  skim  the  fat  from  the  liquor  and 
boil  the  latter  down,  so  that  when  poured  over  the  meat,  it  will 
just  fill  the  spaces  between  the  pieces.  Then  lay  over  the  whole 


DINNER. 


122 

a  flat  cover  'which  will  just  fit  into  the  dish  ;  put  upon  it  a  dozen 
pounds  weight,  or  more,  if  necessary,  and  let  it  stand  until  cold. 
Prepared  in  this  way,  the  poorest  piece  of  tough  corned  beef  will 
be  made  tender  and  juicy.  The  liquor  thus  saved  contains  the 
gelatine,  the  most  nutritious  portion  of  the  meat,  and  when  cold 
forms  a  solid  mass  with  the  meat,  which  may  then  be  cut  into 
slices  for  serving  upon  the  table. 

Dr.  Johnson's  Favorite  Dishes. — “  A  leg  of  pork  boiled  till  it 
dropped  from  the  bone,  a  veal  pie  with  plums  and  sugar,  or  the 
outside  cut  of  a  salt  buttock  of  beef,  were  his  favorite  dainties.” 

To  Boil  a  Ham. — Put  the  ham  into  the  kettle  with  cold  water 
over  a  sloiv  fire ,  that  it  may  commence  boiling  in  small  blubbers  ; 
keep  the  lid  upon  the  pot,  so  as  to  retain  heat.  When  at  the 
boiling-point  do  not  attempt  to  increase  the  fire  by  forcing  it,  for 
you  can  make  the  water  no  hotter,  and  a  violent  agitation  suffi¬ 
cient  to  make  the  pot  boil  over  will  drive  the  juice  out  and  make 
the  ham  hard  and  dry.  Skim  the  pot  often.  For  every  pound 
the  ham  weighs,  boil  it  so  many  fifteen  minutes.  When  cooked, 
skin  the  whole,  and  fit  it  for  the  table ;  then  set  it  in  an  oven 
for  half  an  hour ;  take  it  out  and  cover  it  thickly  with  bread 
crumbs,  and  set  it  back  for  another  half  hour. 

Boiled  ham  is  always  much  improved  by  setting  it  into  an 
oven  for  nearly  an  hour,  until  much  of  the  fat  dries  out ;  it  also 
makes  it  more  tender. 

Hams  are  sometimes  boiled  in  nine. 

To  Boil  Salt  Pork. — Scrape  the  rind  and  wash  the  whole  clean. 
It  must  be  put  into  cold  water,  heated  gradually,  and  boiled  slowly. 
A  piece  of  two  pounds’  weight  will  cook  in  about  an  hour.  Try 
it  with  a  fork,  and  if  this  slips  in  easily,  the  pork  is  done.  When 
you  take  it  up,  remove  the  rind  neatly,  pepper  the  pork  in  spots, 


MEATS.  123 

and  place  it  in  the  oven  while  you  prepare  the  other  parts  of  your 
dinner. 

On  a  certain  occasion  when  Charles  II.  was  dining  in  state,  he 
made  Grammont  remark  that  he  was  served  upon  the  knee,  a 
token  of  respect  not  common  at  other  courts.  “  I  thank  your 
majesty  for  the  explanation,”  answered  Grammont ;  “  I  thought 
they  were  begging  pardon  for  giving  you  so  had  a  dinner.” 

“  Pork  or  swine’s  flesh  was,  till  of  late  years,  much  abominated 
by  the  Scotch,  nor  is  it  yet  a  favorite  food  among  them.  King 
James  carried  this  prejudice  to  England,  and  is  known  to  have 
abhorred  pork  almost  as  much  as  he  did  tobacco.  He  said  if  he 
were  to  give  a  banquet  to  the  devil,  he  'would  provide  a  ‘  loin  of 
pork  and  a  poll  of  ling,  with  a  pipe  of  tobacco  for  digestion.  ” — 
Scott. 

Pork  was  a  favorite  meat  at  the  tables  of  the  luxurious  Greeks 
and  Eomans.  It  was  cooked  in  a  variety  of  modes.  A  famous 
piece  of  skill  on  the  part  of  their  cooks  was  displayed  in  cooking 
a  whole  pig,  boiled  on  one  side,  roasted  on  the  other,  and  stuffed 
with  flavored  and  spiced  thrushes,  eggs,  and  various  other  delica¬ 
cies  ;  and  all  so  ingeniously  executed,  that  the  guest  could  not  per¬ 
ceive  where  the  animal  had  been  divided.  The  receipt  for  prepar¬ 
ing  the  pig,  remained  a  long  time  secret,  but  was  at  length  divulged. 
The  animal,  after  being  bled  under  the  shoulder,  Avas  hung  up, 
and  the  intestines  draAvn  out  through  the  throat.  These  were 
thoroughly  Avashed,  filled  Avith  hashed  meat  and  gravy,  and  forced 
back  into  the  body,  Avhich  was  stuffed  also  Avith  birds,  etc.  One 
half  was  then  covered  Avith  a  thick  paste  of  barley  meal  mixed 
with  Avine  and  oil ;  the  pig  Avas  baked  on  the  other  side,  and, 
Avhen  that  was  done,  this  paste  Avas  removed,  and  the  last  half 
was  boiled  by  laying  it  in  a  shalloAV  sauce-pan. 


DINNER. 


124 

To  Pack  and  Salt  Pork. — To  keep  well,  pork  should  be  as  free 
from  bone  as  possible.  Take  a  clean,  sweet  barrel,  sprinkle  a 
thick  layer  of  salt  on  the  bottom ;  pack  then  a  layer  of  the  pork, 
fitting  the  pieces  as  closely  as  possible  ;  sprinkle  around  the  edge 
of  the  barrel  a  good  supply  of  salt,  and  cover  the  whole  layer 
plentifully  with  the  same.  Alternate  thus  the  pork  and  salt,  re¬ 
peating  the  process  until  the  barrel  is  filled. 

When  half  full,  pound  the  mass  down  to  make  it  as  solid  as 
possible,  and  do  this  again  when  it  is  full.  There  is  no  danger 
of  putting  in  too  much  salt.  Lay  a  large  flat  stone  on  the  top. 
Pour  on  cold  water  to  cover  it ;  this  will  form  a  brine.  Never 
let  your  pork  swim,  or  it  will  become  rusty.  When  you  begin  to 
use  it  and  cut  into  a  piece,  see  that  the  remaining  pieces  be  put 
under  the  stone,  so  that  it  shall  always  remain  below  the  surface. 

When  the  hog  has  free  range  of  forest  lands  in  which  it  can 
feed  on  the  acorns,  the  beach-nuts,  and  the  sweet  chestnuts,  the 
flesh  is  proportionally  valued  ;  and  it  is  on  this  account,  that  the 
pork  of  Virginia  has  obtained  a  celebrity  in  America  equal  to  that 
of  Westphalia  in  Europe. 

Receipt  for  Curing  Hams. — Four  quarts  of  salt,  four  oz.  of  salt¬ 
petre,  four  lbs.  of  brown  sugar  dissolved  in  water.  Pack  one  hundred 
weight  of  hams  closely  together,  and  pour  this  pickle  over  them. 
Let  them  remain  ten  days,  and  then  smoke. 

New  Jersey  Rule  for  Curing  Hams. — After  the  hams  are  cut,  let 
them  lie  on  a  shelf  two  or  three  days,  where  they  can  have  plenty 
of  cool  air,  so  that  all  animal  heat  will  pass  out  of  them  before 
you  put  them  down.  After  this,  drain  off  any  bloody  water  which 
may  come  out.  Make  then  the  following  pickle,  sufficient  to 
cover  them :  nine  lbs.  of  salt,  three  oz.  of  saltpetre,  one  oz.  sale- 
ratus,  four  lbs.  of  brown  sugar  or  molasses,  six  gallons  of  water. 
Let  them  lie  in  the  above  pickle  from  three  to  six  weeks,  according 


MEATS. 


125 

to  the  size  of  the  hams ;  then  you  may  take  them  out  and  smoke 
them  in  dry  weather,  with  good  hickory  or  any  other  wood,  except 
pine ,  till  sufficiently  smoked  to  suit  your  taste.  Then  take  them 
down,  put  them  in  bags,  to  protect  them  from  flies,  and  hang  in 
a  dry,  cool  place. 

An  old  writer  tells  us  of  a  baron  who  held  certain  manors  on 
the  condition,  “  that  he  shall  find,  maintain,  and  sustain  one  bacon 
flitch  hanging  in  his  hall  at  all  times  of  the  year,  but  in  Lent  to 
be  given  to  every  man  or  woman  married,  after  the  day  and  year 
of  the  marriage  be  past,  in  form  following : — “  After  notice  of  the 
demand  is  given,  all  the  free  tenantry  were  to  assemble  1  to  do 
and  perform  the  services  they  owe  to  the  bacon.’  On  the  ap¬ 
pointed  day  after  certain  ceremonies  done,  the  bacon  was  to  be 
taken  down,  placed  in  a  half  quarter  of  wheat,  and  in  a  book 
placed  on  these,  the  demandant  made  oath  that  there  had  been  no 
disagreement  or  strife,  or  dissatisfaction  between  him  and  his 
wife,  during  the  year  and  day  that  they  had  been  married;  a 
cheese  was  to  be  added  if  he  were  a  freeman,  and  the  whole  being 
placed  on  two  horses,  they  were  to  leave  the  house  accompanied 
by  ‘  trumpets,  taborets,  and  other  manner  of  minstrelsy.’  ” 

To  Cure  Mutton. — If  the  brine  in  your  pork  or  beef  barrel  be 
good  and  sweet,  lay  the  leg  of  mutton  in  it  for  five  or  six  days, 
when  it  will  be  sufficiently  salted  to  boil  with  a  small  piece  of 
salted  pork  for  dinner.  But  if  you  have  no  good  brine,  lay  the 
mutton  into  a  stone  jar,  salt  it  thickly  on  both  sides,  and  pour 
over  it  a  weak  brine  of  salt  and  water.  Let  it  remain  several 
days,  or  until  you  wish  it  to  boil.  Some  persons  hang  it  up  after 
being  thus  cured,  and  dry  it  like  beef. 

Boiled  Lamb  or  Mutton. — A  leg  of  mutton  requires  an  hour 
for  boiling ;  a  leg  of  lamb,  half  an  hour.  Put  all  fresh  meat  on 
to  boil  in  hot  water ;  if  the  mutton  has  been  corned,  however,  lay 


126  DINNER. 

it  first  in  cold  water,  and  gradually  lieat  it.  A  small  piece  of 
salted  pork  boiled  with  it  improves  it  in  either  case  ;  mint  sauce 
should  accompany  it ;  that  is,  melted  butter  prepared  as  in  the 
fish- sauces  with  a  few  leaves  of  chopped  mint  added  to  it. 

Dr.  Johnson's  account  of  his  last  Dinner  at  Mrs.  Thr ale's  a  fter 
their  quarrel ,  ( translated  from  the  Latin  in  which  he  wrote  it.) — 
“  I  dined  at  Streatham  on  a  leg  of  lamb  boiled  with  spinach,  a 
plum-pudding,  beef  tenderloin,  and  young  turkey ;  after  the 
meats  were  dismissed,  on  figs  and  grapes  not  quite  ripe,  owing  to 
the  unfavorableness  of  the  season,  and  on  princely  apples  that 
were  not  very  mellow.  I  sat  down  in  sorrow,  and  fed  sparingly, 
and  committed  no  great  sin  from  intemperance.  If  my  memory 
should  not  fail  me,  the  feasts  celebrated  at  the  funeral  rites  of 
Adonis  will  come  to  my  mind  whenever  I  revisit  Streatham.” 

To  Cure  Beeves'  Tongues. — Wash  the  tongues  thoroughly  to  get 
off  the  blood,  then  rub  them  with  salt,  and  lay  them  in  a  stone 
jar.  For  two  tongues,  make  a  brine  of  one  quart  of  water,  one 
pint  of  salt,  one  small  cup  of  molasses,  one  teaspoon  of  saltpetre. 
Scald  the  brine,  skim  it,  and  while  hot  pour  it  over  the  tongues. 
At  the  expiration  of  three  days,  pour  off  the  brine,  scald  it  again, 
and  pour  over  the  tongues  as  before.  In  two  weeks’  time,  they 
are  ready  to  boil,  or  to  hang  in  the  smoke-house  for  a  week,  thence 
to  be  taken  out  and  hung  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

To  Boil  Beeves'  Tongues. — A  tongue  that  is  dried  or  smoked, 
requires  to  be  soaked  a  few  hours  in  cold  water,  previous  to  boil¬ 
ing.  Put  it  over  the  fire  in  cold  water,  and  boil  slowly  for  two 
hours.  If  the  water  tastes  so  salt  during  the  boiling  that  you 
think  it  necessary  to  pour  it  off,  replenish  with  boiling  water 
from  the  hot  tea-kettle.  When  boiled,  take  the  skin  off  as  soon 
as  possible,  and  if  you  can  do  so,  keep  it  whole,  that  you  may 
have  it  to  lay  over  the  tongue  afterward,  to  keep  the  latter  moist. 


MEATS.  127 

To  Pickle  Sheep's  Tongues. — Take  one  dozen  sheep’s  tongues, 
boil  them  in  salted  water  until  tender ;  then  have  a  jar  of  spiced 
vinegar  ready,  and  drop  them  into  it  while  hot. 

Salt. — Salt  was  held  in  great  estimation  by  the  ancients  ;  set¬ 
ting  salt  before  a  stranger  was  a  token  of  friendship  ;  to  spill  it 
was  deemed  ominous.  A  family  salt-cellar  was  preserved  with 
great  care. 

The  office  of  grand  pannctier  at  the  king’s  table  which  formerly 
existed,  is  now  extinct.  His  service  was  to  bear  the  salt  and  the 
carving-knives,  on  state  occasions,  from  the  pantry  to  the  king’s 
table ;  and  his  fees  were  the  salt-cellars,  spoons  and  knives, 
which  lay  upon  the  royal  table.  He  also  served  the  bread  to  the 
sovereigns,  and  received  as  his  fee  the  bread  cover,  called  the  cover- 
pane. 

Account  of  a  Christmas  Pie ,  taken  from  the  Newcastle  Chronicle 
of  the  6 th  January ,  1770. — “Monday  last  was  brought  from 
Howick  to  Bewick,  to  be  shipped  for  London,  for  Sir  Henry 
Grey,  Bart.,  a  pie ,  the  contents  whereof  are  as  follows,  viz :  2 
bushels  of  flour,  20  lbs.  of  butter,  4  geese,  2  turkeys,  2  rabbits, 
4  wild  ducks,  2  woodcocks,  6  snipes,  and  4  partridges ;  2  neats’ 
tongues,  2  curlews,  7  black-birds  and  six  pigeons  ;  it  is  supposed 
a  very  great  curiosity ;  was  made  by  Mrs.  Dorothy  Patterson, 
housekeeper  at  Howick.  It  was  near  nine  feet  in  circumference 
at  bottom ;  weighs  about  twelve  stone ;  will  take  two  men  to 
present  it  to  table ;  it  is  neatly  fitted  with  a  case,  and  four  small 
wheels,  to  facilitate  its  use  to  every  guest  that  inclines  to  partake 
of  its  contents  at  table.” 

Chicken  Pie. — Line  the  sides  of  a  baking-dish  with  a  good 
crust.  Have  your  chickens  cooked  as  for  a  fricassee,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter ;  before  they  are  cooked  quite  done, 


DINNER. 


128 

lay  them  in  the  baking-dish,  and  pour  on  part  of  the  gravy  which 
you  have  thickened  with  a  little  flour.  Cover  it  then  with  puff 
paste  ;  in  the  centre  of  this  cover  cut  a  small  hole  the  size  of  a 
dollar,  and  spread  a  piece  of  dough  twice  its  size  over  it.  When 
baked  remove  this  piece  and  examine  the  interior ;  if  it  is  getting 
dry,  pour  in  more  of  the  remaining  gravy ;  cover  it  again  and 
serve.  It  should  be  baked  in  a  quick  oven. 

Pigeon  and  Yeal  Pies  are  made  after  the  above  receipt  for 
chicken  pie. 

The  Effect  of  Pies  upon  Courtiers. — Sir  Robert  Sidney  was  gov¬ 
ernor  of  Flushing  in  the  Hague.  Becoming  tired  of  this  difficult 
and  onerous  post,  vexed  and  fettered  as  he  was  for  want  of  means 
to  sustain  the  honor  of  his  country,  he  became  home-sick,  and  ear¬ 
nestly  solicited  leave  of  absence  for  a  few  weeks,  to  visit  his  wife 
and  children.  Queen  Elizabeth  considered  him  a  more  efficient 
person  than  any  one  she  could  put  in  his  place,  and  so  refused  to 
accede  to  his  wishes.  Great  interest  was  made  by  Lady  Sidney 
with  the  ladies  of  the  bed-chamber  and  the  ministers,  to  second 
her  request.  Among  the  presents  she  made  to  propitiate  the 
ministers,  were  hoar-pies.  They  were  esteemed  very  choice  dain¬ 
ties,  and  were  sent  from  the  Hague  by  poor  Sir  Robert  for  that 
purpose.  It  is  noted,  that  after  my  Lord  of  Essex  and  my  Lord 
Treasurer  have  their  boar-pies,  Lady  Sidney  reserved  none  for 
herself,  but  bestowed  her  two  on  Sir  Robert  Cecil,  in  the  hope  j 

that  he  would  second  her  suit  for  her  lord’s  return ;  nor  was  she  i 

disappointed ;  the  boar-pies  proved  super-excellent,  and  so  com¬ 
pletely  propitiated  Mr.  Secretary,  that  the  next  time  the  petition 
of  Sir  Robert  Sidney  was  presented  to  her  Majesty  by  her  la¬ 
dies,  he  knelt  down,  and  besought  her  Majesty  to  hear  him  in  be¬ 
half  of  the  home-sick  ambassador ;  and  after  representing  the 
many  causes  which  rendered  him  so  desirous  of  revisiting  his  na¬ 
tive  land,  entreated  her  only  to  license  his  return  for  six  weeks. 


MEATS.  129 

But  the  Queen  was  obdurate.  Whether  the  hoar-pies  failed  to 
reach  her  Majesty,  or  she  was  not  to  he  moved  hy  such  things,  is 
not  known. 

Birds  in  a  Pye. — “A  usual  dish  at  Queen  Elizabeth’s  table  was 
a  large  pye,  from  which,  when  opened,  flew  a  covey  of  birds. 
Thus  literally  and  historically  true  are  the  nursery  rhymes : 

‘  Four  and  twenty  blackbirds 
Baked  in  a  pye ; 

When  the  pye  was  opened 
The  birds  began  to  sing, 

And  was  not  this  a  dainty  dish 
To  set  before  a  king?  ’ 

A  Dwarf  in  a  Pye. — “  But  if  we  think  the  above  strange,  what 
shall  we  say  to  baking,  or  at  least  encrusting  a  dwarf  in  a  pie — 
a  real  live  man !  This  wras  done  at  an  entertainment  given  by 
the  Duke  of  Buckingham  to  Charles  and  Henrietta,  soon  after 
their  marriage.  The  dwarf,  Geoffrey  Hudson,  wras  then  eighteen 
inches  high,  and  as  soon  as  the  pie  was  carved,  he  was  released 
from  his  strange  durance,  presented  to  the  Queen,  and  remained 
afterward  in  her  household.” — Mus.  Stone. 

A  Pare  Pie. — We  are  told  of  an  entertainment  of  the  Earl 
of  Carlisle’s,  where  one  person  ate  to  his  own  share  a  pie  which 
cost  ten  pounds.  We  do  not  know  of  what  the  pie  wTas  chiefly 
formed,  but  amongst  other  ingredients  were  ambergris,  musk, 
and  magisterial  of  pearl. 

In  the  “Accomplished  Cook,”  published  in  the  sixteenth  cen¬ 
tury,  we  find  the  receipt  for  an  artificial  hen  made  of  puff  paste , 
with  her  wings  displayed,  sitting  upon  eggs  of  the  same  materials, 
in  each  of  which  was  enclosed  a  fat  nightingale,  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  ambergris. 

9 


130  DINNER. 

Fricasseed  Chickens. — Cut  them  up,  and  lay  the  pieces  in  a 
kettle  with  sufficient  water  to  cover  them.  A  slice  of  salt  pork 
cut  into  hits  and  cooked  with  the  chicken,  seasons  it  well.  After 
boiling  a  few  minutes,  skim  the  surface,  and  sprinkle  in  pepper. 
When  the  chickens  are  boiled  tender,  take  the  pieces  up,  and  let 
the  water  boil  down  if  there  seems  too  much  for  gravy.  Work  a 
little  flour  and  butter  together,  and  stir  it  into  the  gravy.  Where 
the  chickens  are  fat,  they  require  little  or  no  butter;  but  generally 
a  little  is  necessary :  in  this,  as  in  all  cooking,  the  cook  must  ex¬ 
ercise  her  own  judgment.  Lay  the  chickens  back  in  the  gravy  a 
few  moments,  and  then  serve  all  together. 

Potted  Pigeons. — Make  a  stuffing  of  bread  and  butter,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  summer-savory,  worked  together  with  an 
egg.  When  the  birds  are  ready  for  cooking,  put  a  ball  of  stuf¬ 
fing  in  each ;  sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  and  flour  over  them,  and  place 
them  in  a  pot  with  the  neck  down,  covering  them  with  water. 
Cover  the  pot,  and  let  them  cook  slowly.  Watch  them,  and  turn 
them,  if  necessary.  If  they  prove  tough,  they  may  require  more 
water ;  if  tender,  you  may  have  to  take  them  up  before  the  water 
is  boiled  down  to  make  the  gravy.  Put  butter  and  flour  to  the 
gravy,  and  lay  the  pigeons  into  it  again,  that  they  may  brown  a 
little  ;  when  this  is  done,  serve  hot. 

Un  Roti  sans  Pareil. — The  following  receipt  for  an  extraordi¬ 
nary  dish,  is  from  the  pen  of  a  celebrated  gastronomer,  I)e  la 
Eeyniere ;  we  give  it  for  the  amusement,  if  not  advantage,  of  our 
lady  readers  ;  they  can  judge  for  themselves  of  its  practicability 
“  Stuff  a  fine  large  olive  with  capers  and  jolets  d'anchois ;  then 
place  the  olive  inside  the  body  of  a  fig-picker,  from  which  you 
cut  the  head  and  feet ;  then  inclose  the  fig-picker  in  the  body 
of  a  plump  ortolan,  neatly  dressed ;  then  insert  the  ortolan  in  the 
body  of  a  fat  lark,  from  which  you  dissect  the  principal  bones ; 


MEATS.  13] 

then  cover  the  lark  with  a  thin .  slice  of  lard,  and  put  it  into  the 
body  of  a  thrush  ;  which,  having  in  like  manner  dissected,  you 
stuff  inside  a  fat  and  juicy  pail,  (a  wild  one  preferred,)  which  you 
should  cover  with  a  vine-leaf,  and  insert  in  the  body  of  a  lap¬ 
wing  ;  which  is  boned,  and  trussed,  and  inserted  in  the  body  of  a 
golden  plover  ;  which,  in  its  turn,  is  covered  with  lard  and  inserted 
in  a  young  woodcock ;  having  rolled  this  in  grated  bread-crumbs, 
place  it  in  the  body  of  a  neatly  prepared  teal ;  which  put  into  the 
body  of  a  guinea-hen ;  which  secrete  in  the  body  of  a  young  wild 
duck  ;  which  encage  in  the  body  of  a  chicken ;  which  conceal  in¬ 
side  of  a  young  and  carefully  selected  pheasant ;  which  entomb 
in  the  body  of  a  young  and  flit  goose,  (wild,  of  course ;)  which  in¬ 
sert  in  the  body  of  a  very  tine  hen  turkey;  which  finally  enclose 
in  the  body  of  an  oiitarcle,  (a  species  of  wild  turkey,)  or  a  young 
swan,  and  fill  the  interstices  with  Lucca  chestnuts,  forced  meat, 
and  a  savory  stuffing.  Having  thus  prepared  the  roast,  put  it 
into  a  pot  sufficiently  large,  with  onions,  cloves,  carrots,  chopped 
ham,  celery,  a  bouquet  of  parsley  and  thyme,  mignonette,  sev¬ 
eral  slices  of  salt  pork  well  salted,  pepper,  salt,  fine  spices,  corian¬ 
der  seeds,  and  one  or  two  sprigs  of  garlic.  Seal  this  pot  hermeti¬ 
cally  with  a  strip  of  paste  or  clay,  place  it  on  a  slow  fire  where 
the  heat  will  penetrate  it  gradually,  and  let  it  remain  twenty-four 
hours.  Then  uncover  it,  skim  it  if  necessary,  and  serve  on  a 
hot  dish.” 

Carving. — Carving  was  anciently  taught  as  an  art,  and  it  was 
performed  to  the  sound  of  music.  In  later  times,  we  read  in  the 
life  of  Lady  M.  W.  Montague,  that  her  father,  the  Duke  of  King¬ 
ston,  “  having  no  wife  to  do  the  honors  of  his  table  at  Thoresby, 
imposed  that  task  upon  his  eldest  daughter,  as  soon  as  she  had 
bodily  strength  for  the  office,  which,  in  those  days,  required  no 
small  share ;  for  the  mistress  of  a  country  mansion  was  not  only 
to  invite — that  is,  to  urge  and  teaze  her  company  to  eat  more 

Li- 


132  DINNER. 

than  human  throats  could  conveniently  swallow, — hut  to  carve 
every  dish,  when  chosen,  with  her  own  hands.  The  greater  the 
lady,  the  more  indispensable  the  duty.  Each  joint  was  carried 
up  in  its  turn  to  be  operated  on  by  her,  and  her  alone ;  since  the 
peers  and  knights  on  either  hand  were  so  far  from  being  bound 
to  offer  their  assistance,  that  the  very  master  of  the  house,  posted 
opposite  to  her,  might  not  act  as  her  croupier ;  his  department 
was  to  push  the  bottle  after  dinner.  As  for  the  crowd  of  guests, 
— the  most  inconsiderable  among  them — if  suffered  through  her 
neglect,  to  help  himself  to  a  slice  of  the  mutton  placed  before  him, 
would  have  chewed  it  in  bitterness,  and  gone  home  an  affronted 
man.  There  were  at  this  time  professed  carving  masters,  who 
taught  young  ladies  the  art  scientifically,  from  one  of  whom 
Lady  Mary  took  lessons  three  times  a  week,  that  she  might  be 
perfect  on  her  father’s  public  days, — when,  in  order  to  perform  her 
functions  without  interruption,  she  was  forced  to  eat  her  own  din¬ 
ner  alone,  an  hour  or  two  beforehand.” 


VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables  have  been  more  improved  in  their  qualities  and 
appearance  by  careful  cultivation,  than  many  persons  are  aware. 
Celery,  so  agreeable  to  most  palates,  is  a  modification  of  a  plant, 
the  taste  of  which  is  so  acrid  and  bitter,  that  it  cannot  be  eaten. 
Our  cauliflowers  and  cabbages,  Avhich  weigh  many  pounds,  are 
largely  developed  coleworts  that  grow  wild  on  the  sea-shore,  and 
do  not  weigh  more  than  half  an  ounce  each.  Beets  and  carrots 
were  originally  little  more  than  hard  stringy  roots  ;  and  the  potato 
was  at  first  no  larger  than  a  walnut.  Turnips  and  carrots  are 
thought  to  be  indigenous  roots  of  France ;  cauliflowers  came  from  Cy¬ 
prus  ;  artichokes  from  Sicily ;  lettuce  from  Cos  ;  peas  from  Syria ; 


VEGETABLES.  133 

beans  from  Persia ;  spinach  from  Western  Asia ;  radishes  from 
China ;  onions  from  the  East ;  and  rhubarb  from  Tartarv. 

We  shall  first  speak  of  the  potato.  The  “  Irish  potato”  is  in¬ 
digenous  to  Chili.  It  was  first  noticed  there  by  the  Europeans, 
in  1588.  It  was  brought  from  Virginia  to  Ireland,  by  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh,  in  1586 ;  and  being  there  cultivated,  and  its  valuable 
nutritious  qualities  appreciated,  it  was  from  thence  taken  to  Eng¬ 
land,  where  it  has  always  borne  the  name  of  Irish  potato. 

IIow  to  boil  the  Irish  Potato. — Choose  your  potatoes  of  the 
same  size,  and  if  very  large,  cut  them  into  halves  or  quarters. 
They  should  be  put  into  the  pot  with  a  good  handful  of  coarse 
salt,  and  the  water,  (which  should  be  cold,)  must  not  quite  cover 
them,  nor  should  the  lid  be  closed.  When  half  done,  remove 
those  at  the  bottom  to  the  top.  When  the  whole  appear  com¬ 
pletely  cooked,  try  them  with  a  fork,  and  if  soft,  the  water 
should  be  instantly  poured  oft',  and  the  potatoes  left  in  the  pot  by 
the  side  of  the  fire.  Some  kinds  are  better  boiled  with  the  skins 
on,  and  others  peeled ;  experience  alone  will  teach  the  difference. 
If  you  wish  to  brown  them  after  peeling,  dip  each  in  a  beaten  egg 
and  brown  in  the  oven. 

Mashed  Potatoes. — After  carefully  peeling  the  potatoes,  and 
taking  out  the  eyes  or  specks,  mash  them  in  a  warm  saucepan, 
adding  milk,  butter,  and  salt,  until  nicely  seasoned.  To  make 
the  mixture  light,  take  two  forks  in  one  hand,  with  the  points  of 
the  prongs  turned  outwards,  and  beat  the  potato  until  it  becomes 
quite  light.  Keep  it  near  the  fire  in  your  saucepan,  until  dinner 
is  ready  to  be  served  ;  otherwise  it  will  make  its  appearance  cold, 
and  hard  as  paste. 

To  obviate  this  last  difficulty,  some  persons,  after  nicely  pre¬ 
paring  the  potato,  turn  it  out  into  an  earthen  dish,  smooth  it,  and 
spread  over  the  top  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg.  Brown  it  in  a 
hot  oven,  or  before  a  fire. 


134  DTNNEK. 

“  Potatoes  with  the  lone  in.” — We  have  all  wondered  why  oui 
Irish  servants  persist  in  bringing  half-boiled  potatoes  to  the  table, 
notwithstanding  our  repeated  orders  to  the  contrary.  Dr.  James 
Johnson,  in  his  tour  in  Ireland,  discovered  that  it  was  almost  a 
universal  custom  among  the  poor  of  that  country,  to  only  half  boil 
their  potatoes,  leaving  the  centre  so  hard,  that  it  is  called  the 
bone  of  the  potato. 

“  There  is  scarcely  a  more  indigestible  substance  taken  into 
the  human  stomach,  than  a  half-boiled  potato  ;  and,  to  a  dyspep¬ 
tic,  it  would  be  little  less  than  poison.  It  is  this  very  quality  of 
indigestibility,  that  recommends  the  parboiled  potato  to  the  poor 
Irishman.  The  laboring  classes  have  rarely  more  than  two  meals, 
in  the  twenty-four  hours  ;  and  if  their  potatoes  were  well  boiled,  the 
pangs  of  hunger  would  be  insufferable,  during  a  considerable  portion 
of  the  day  and  night.  Custom,  fortunately,  is  a  second  nature ; 
and  custom  has  so  reconciled  the  poor  Irishman’s  stomach  to  this 
food,  that  even  the  children  complain  if  they  find  no  ‘  bone  in  the 
potato.’  ” 

Yams  or  Sweet  Potatoes. — These  potatoes  generally  require  to 
be  boiled  an  hour ;  if  very  large,  boil  them  still  longer.  They 
are  much  improved  by  lying  in  the  oven  five  or  ten  minutes  after 
they  are  boiled,  previous  to  serving  them. 

The  sweet  potato  is  a  native  of  India  ;  from  thence  brought 
to  Spain,  and  from  Spain  to  England,  and  other  parts  of  the 
globe.  In  Gerard’s  time,  1597,  Virginia  potatoes,  as  they  were 
then  called,  were  just  beginning  to  be  known.  A  sweet  potato 
had  been  previously  known,  which  was  used  as  a  kind  of  confec¬ 
tion  at  the  tables  of  the  rich.  Of  these,  Gerard  says  :  “  They  are 
used  to  be  eaten  rosted  in  the  ashes ;  some,  when  they  be  so 
rosted,  infuse  them,  and  sop  them  in  wine ;  and  others,  to  give 
them  the  greater  grace  in  eating,  do  boil  them  with  prunes,  and 


VEGETABLES.  135 

bo  eat  them.  And  likewise  others  dresse  them  (being  first 
rosted)  with  oile,  vinegar,  and  salt,  every  man  according  to  his 
own  taste  and  liking ;  notwithstanding  howsoever  they  he  dressed, 
they  comfort,  nourish,  and  strengthen  the  bodie.”  These  were 
sold  by  women,  who  stood  about  the  Exchange  with  baskets. 
The  same  writer  says  of  the  common  potato,  which,  for  a  consid¬ 
erable  time  after  its  introduction,  was  a  rarity,  that  “  it  was  like¬ 
wise  a  foode,  as  also  a  meete  for  pleasure,  being  either  rosted  in 
the  embers,  or  boiled  and  eaten  with  oile  and  vinegar,  or  dressed 
anie  other  way  by  the  hand  of  some  cunning  in  cookerie.” 

Indian  Corn. — Corn  for  boiling  should  be  fully  grown,  but 
young  and  tender,  and  the  grains  soft  and  milky ;  when  hard 
and  yellow  they  are  too  old. 

Strip  the  husks  and  silk  off  the  ears ;  leaving,  however,  the 
last  husk  on  the  ear,  as  it  adds  to  the  sweetness,  and  keeps  it 
hot.  Boil  fast  for  half  an  hour  or  more,  until  tender,  then  send 
it  hot  to  the  table. 

Dried  Corn  for  Winter. — Shave  off  the  corn,  dry  it  in  an  oven, 
put  it  in  a  paper  bag,  and  hang  it  up  in  a  dry  place.  When  you 
wish  to  use  it,  soak  it  twelve  hours.  Put  it  over  the  fire  in  the 
same  water,  and  boil  about  twenty  minutes ;  when  soft,  add 
butter  and  salt. 

To  make  Succotash  in  Winter. — Take  small  white  beans,  soak 
them  twelve  hours,  and  then  put  them  over  to  boil.  When  half 
done,  add  the  corn,  and  let  them  boil  until  soft,  when  add  butter, 
salt,  and  pepper. 

Green  Corn  Calces. — Mix  one  pint  of  grated  corn  with  three 
table-spoons  of  milk,  one  tea-cup  of  flour,  half  a  cup  of  melted 
butter,  one  egg,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoon  of  pepper ; 
drop  this  mixture  into  hot  butter  by  the  spoonful,  and  fry  the 


136 


DINNER, 


cakes  eight  or  ten  minutes.  These  cakes  are  nice  to  he  served 
with  meats  at  dinner. 

Corn  Oysters. — Take  two  dozen  ears  of  large,  young,  and  soft 
corn,  grate  it  from  the  cob  as  fine  as  possible,  and  dredge  it  with 
wheat  flour.  Beat  four  eggs  very  light,  and  mix  them  gradually 
with  the  corn ;  stir  the  whole  with  your  hand,  adding  a  salt- 
spoon  of  salt ;  melt  equal  portions  of  lard  and  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  ;  stir  it  so  that  they  may  well  mix  together,  and  when  it  is 
boiling  hot,  put  in  the  mixture,  in  the  form  of  oval  cakes  about 
three  inches  long,  and  one  inch  thick.  Fry  brown,  and  send  to 
the  table  hot.  They  strongly  resemble  fried  oysters,  and  when 
well  done  are  always  liked  as  a  side  dish  at  dinner. 

Green  Corn  Dumplings. — One  quart  of  young  corn  grated  from 
the  cob,  half  a  pint  of  wheat  flour  sifted,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  two  eggs, 
six  table-spoons  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  Grate  the  corn,  mix 
it  Avith  the  flour,  adding  salt  and  pepper.  Warm  the  milk  in  a 
sauce-pan,  and  melt  the  butter  in  it.  Pour  this  gradually  to  the 
corn  mixture,  stirring  it  hard.  Then  set  the  whole  away  to  cool. 
Beat  the  eggs  light,  and  stir  them  into  the  mixture  when  it  is 
sufficiently  cooled.  Flour  your  hands,  and  make  it  into  small 
dumplings.  Drop  them  into  boiling  hot  butter,  and  fry  ten  min¬ 
utes  ;  then  drain  and  serve  hot. 

Parched  corn  was  in  constant  use  among  the  American  In¬ 
dians,  and  chiefly  relied  upon  by  them  in  their  journeys  and 
hunting  expeditions. 

A  Khan  of  Tartary,  who  subsisted  on  rapine,  and  fed  on 
nothing  but  horseflesh  and  mares’  milk,  caused  a  herald  to  pro¬ 
claim,  every  day  after  his  repast,  “that  the  Khan  having  dined, 
all  other  princes,  potentates,  and  great  men  of  the  earth  might 
go  to  dinner  !  ” 


VEGETABLES.  137 

Turnips. — Turnips  are  less  likely  to  be  bitter,  if  they  are  cut 
into  several  pieces,  and  boiled  in  plenty  of  salted  water.  When 
they  are  nearly  done,  take  oft'  the  cover  of  the  kettle,  that  the 
vegetable  may  dry  a  little.  Turnips  require  from  half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  boil,  according  to  their  age.  If  they  are 
very  watery  when  preparing  them  for  the  table,  drain  off  all  the 
water,  and  mash  a  small,  mealy  potato  with  them.  Butter,  salt, 
and  pepper  them.  Peel  them  before  boiling. 

Squashes. — Summer  squashes  should  be  boiled  whole,  or  cut 
in  halves,  and  mashed  without  peeling,  as  the  skin  is  generally 
the  sweetest  part.  Where  there  is  a  thick,  tough  skin,  it  should 
of  course  be  removed.  Winter  squashes  are  peeled  after  boiling. 
Mash  them,  and  season  with  care. 

Never  use  strong  or  rancid  butter  in  seasoning  vegetables. 

Boiled  Onions. — Boil  them  first  in  vrater,  and  when  nearly 
cooked,  pour  off  the  water,  and  add  milk  ;  which  boil  them  in  till 
done.  Then  take  them  up,  butter,  salt,  and  pepper  them  well, 
and  serve. 

In  Egypt,  and  other  parts  of  the  East,  garlic  or  onions  enter 
into  the  composition  of  almost  every  dish.  In  ancient  times, 
onions  were  forbidden  to  the  priests  of  Egypt,  but  they  appear  to 
have  been  eaten  by  the  generality  of  the  people ;  the  Hebrews 
complaining,  in  their  wanderings,  that  they  remembered  the 
leeks,  and  onions  and  garlic,  as  well  as  the  cucumbers  and  melons 
of  Egypt.  This  vegetable  is  said  to  have  originated  in  Africa, 
but  was  eaten  by  the  Greeks ;  though  one  of  their  poets  tells  them, 

“You  must  have  cheese,  and  honey,  and  sesame, 

Oil,  leeks,  and  vinegar,  and  assafceticla 

to  dress  it  up  with,  for  by  itself  the  onion  is  bitter  and  unpleasant  to  the  taste.” 

The  Spaniards  scarcely  prepare  a  dish  without  onions  or  gar- 


DINNER. 


138 

lie,  and,  indeed,  upon  tlie  continent  generally,  it  is  indispensable 
The  French  cooks  use  it  in  a  thousand  ways,  concealing  it 
adroitly,  in  their  great  and  little  sauces. 

Sancho  Panza  says,  “  To  tell  you  the  truth,  what  I  eat  in  ray 
corner  without  compliments  or  ceremonies,  though  it  were  nothing 
but  bread  and  an  onion,  relishes  better  than  turkey  at  other 
folks’  tables,  where  I  am  forced  to  chew  leisurely,  drink  little, 
wipe  my  mouth  often,  and  can  neither  sneeze  nor  cough  when  I 
have  a  mind.” 

Artichokes. — The  portion  eaten  is  the  under  side  of  the  head 
before  the  flower  opens.  The  whole  head  is  removed  and  boiled, 
the  leaves  laid  aside,  and  the  bottom  eaten  with  a  sauce  of  but¬ 
ter  and  spices,  or  pepper  and  salt.  In  Italy,  artichokes  are  eaten 
7-aiv  with  oil,  pepper,  and  salt.  In  England,  they  are  always 
boiled.  The  French  and  Germans  boil  the  stalks,  and  eat  them 
with  butter  and  vinegar.  The  French  also  gather  the  heads, 
when  not  larger  round  than  a  dollar,  and  eat  the  lowrer  end  of  the 
leaves  raw,  dipping  them  in  oil,  pepper,  and  vinegar.  Some  per¬ 
sons  treat  them  in  every  way  like  turnips. 

Asparagus. — Wash  the  asparagus,  tie  the  stalks  of  the  same 
size  together,  and  put  them  on  to  boil  in  hot  water,  in  which  a 
little  salt  has  been  sprinkled.  They  will  cook  in  about  fifteen 
minutes ;  when  soft,  take  them  up  carefully  into  the  dish  in 
which  they  will  be  served ;  cut  the  strings,  and  draw  them  out  so 
as  not  to  break  the  asparagus.  Butter,  salt,  and  pepper  it  well. 
This  has  been  esteemed  a  delicate  culinary  herb  from  the  earliest 
times. 

M.  Hue,  in  his  travels  into  Tartary,  made  use  of  many 
substitutes  for  favorite  vegetables.  The  young  ferns,  before  the 
leaves  have  unfolded,  he  boiled  and  used  in  the  place  of  asparagus. 


VEGETABLES.  139 

He  says,  they  were  very  nice.  Like  the  French  generally,  he 
knew  how  to  turn  every  thing  to  the  best  possible  advantage  in 
cooking ;  and  if  unable  to  get  the  best  articles,  to  make  some¬ 
thing  else  serve  as  a  substitute. 

The  Cabbage. — a  We  can  call  up  the  shades  of  the  Greeks  and 
Romans  to  prove  that  the  cabbage  has  merited  the  suffrages  of  the 
first  people  of  the  earth.  Cato,  for  example,  the  severe  Cato,  an 
•  enemy  to  all  physicians,  treated  every  sickness  in  his  household 
with  cabbage,  without  distinction  of  disease,  and  wonderful  to  re¬ 
late,  his  people  never  found  themselves  the  worse  for  it.  Moderns 
have  not  loved  cabbage  less  than  the  ancients.  The  Germans 
have  such  a  passion  for  it,  that  it  is  connected  in  some  way  with 
the  majority  of  their  dishes.”  Cabbages,  cauliflowers,  and  kohl¬ 
rabis,  spring  from  a  species  of  Brassica,  which,  in  its  natural  state, 
has  woody  stems  and  leaves,  and  useless  roots.  Cultivation  has 
changed  their  nature,  and  rendered  them  valuable  for  food. 
About  1G40,  Sir  Anthony  Ashley  first  planted  cabbages  in  Eng¬ 
land  ;  before  that  period,  the  English  obtained  them  from  Hol¬ 
land.  Upon  Sir  Anthony’s  monument,  a  cabbage  is  represented 
lying  at  his  feet.  The  American  cabbage  palm-tree  often  reaches 
to  the  height  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  it  is  crowned  at  the 
top  with  leaves,  which  grow  so  closely,  as  to  form  in  the  centre  a 
white  heart  of  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter.  Trees  are  often 
cut  down  to  obtain  this  single  cabbage;  it  is  eaten  raw,  fried,  or 
boiled. 

Cauliflower. — This  delicate  vegetable  should  be  wrapped  in  a 
cloth  when  boiled.  Some  persons  first  parboil  it,  then  put  it  into 
cold  water  until  near  the  time  to  be  served,  then  boil  it  a  few 
minutes ;  which  makes  it  firmer  than  when  cooked  in  the  usual 
manner.  Serve  it  with  melted  butter. 

Broccoli  is  cooked  like  the  cauliflower.  The  cauliflower  plants 


DIKNEE. 


140 

should  be  taken  from  the  ground  at  the  first  frost,  and  placed  in 
the  cellar,  where  they  will  fiower  during  the  winter. 

Kale. — The  Germans  cook  kale  in  the  following  manner : — 
Cut  out  the  ribs  or  stiff  stalks  of  the  leaves.  Put  the  leaves  on 
to  boil  in  salt  and  water ;  when  nearly  cooked,  pour  off  the  water, 
and  cover  with  fresh  water.  When  soft,  take  them  up  into  a 
sauce-pan  in  which  is  a  little  butter  and  browned  flour ;  stir  it 
quickly,  and  serve  without  vinegar. 

Boiled  Cabbage.— Cut  the  cabbage  into  quarters,  and  examine 
carefully  that  there  be  no  worms  concealed  in  it.  If  boiled  with 
meat,  it  will  become  tender,  sooner  than  when  boiled  in  clear 
water;  with  the  former,  twenty  minutes  will  suffice;  but  from 
half  to  three  quarters  of  an  hour  are  necessary  to  cook  it  by  it¬ 
self.  In  the  latter  case,  throw  a  little  salt  into  the  water.  When 
you  serve,  take  it  up  in  a  vegetable  dish,  drain  off  all  the  water ; 
cut  the  cabbage  across  several  times  with  a  knife,  pepper  it,  and 
if  boiled  without  meat,  butter  the  top  a  little,  and  pour  vinegar 
over  the  whole. 

Kohl-rabis. — Kohl-rabis  are  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as 
cabbage,  and  dressed  with  vinegar. 

The  term  vinegar  comes  from  “  Vin  aigre ,”  (sour  wine,)  which 
indicates  the  source  from  which  it  was  first  produced. 

Cold  Cabbage. — Remove  from  the  cabbage  the  old  decayed  or 
withered  leaves ;  then  cut  it  in  quarters,  and  examine  the  inside 
carefully,  lest  a  worm  or  insect  lurk  within  its  leaves ;  pull  it 
apart  in  order  to  detect  them.  Cut  down  your  cabbage  with  a 
sharp  knife,  or  chop  it  fine  in  a  wooden  bowl ;  turn  it  into  a  dish, 
pour  good  vinegar  over  it,  and  season  with  mustard,  salt,  and 
pepper. 


VEGETABLES.  141 

Parsnips. — This  vegetable  is  said  to  be  improved  by  boiling  in 
molasses  and  water,  thus  changing  the  sweet,  sickish  taste. 
Butter  them  hot.  Parsnips  are  good  fried  after  having  been 
boiled. 

Dandelions  for  Greens. — Dig  up  the  whole  plant,  root  and  all, 
before  it  blossoms.  After  washing,  pour  boiling  water  over  it, 
and  let  it  stand  some  time  to  take  out  the  strong  bitter  taste ; 
.  throw  this  water  away,  and  boil  the  greens  fifteen  minutes ; 
throw  in  salted  -water.  Be  careful  to  drain  off  all  the  water,  and 
serve  with  vinegar  and  butter. 

Spinach. — This  is  a  delicate  and  favorite  vegetable  for  greens. 
Boil  in  salted  water ;  when  done,  thoroughly  drain  off  the  water, 
and  prepare  it  for  the  table  by  putting  on  butter.  Vinegar  is 
usually  eaten  on  it. 

A  French  physician  has  called  spinach  the  “  broom  of  the 
stomach ;  ”  “  le  balai  de  l’estomac,”  for  it  cleanses  and  purifies 
that  organ. 

To  Boil  Peas. — Peas,  when  young  and  tender,  require  only 
fifteen  minutes’  boiling.  If  older,  a  very  small  bit  of  saleratus 
thrown  into  the  water  while  boiling,  softens  them  sooner  than 
they  would  otherwise.  When  served,  butter  them  well,  and  sea¬ 
son  -with  salt  and  pepper  to  your  taste. 

Stringed  Beans. — These  beans  require  more  or  less  boiling,  ac¬ 
cording  to  their  age ;  if  young,  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  will 
suffice,  but  when  full  grown,  half  an  hour  at  least  is  necessary. 
Season  -well  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Green  Lima  Beans  for  Winter  Use. — “  You  can  have  Lima  beans 


142  DINNER. 

in  midwinter,  for  your  dinner,  as  green  and  plump  as  in  summer, 
by  taking  a  little  trouble.  Gather  them  a  little  younger  than  for 
cooking  immediately ;  then  spread  them  upon  the  floor  of  some 
dry,  airy  room ;  turn  them  over  once  or  twice  while  drying ;  soak 
them  twelve  hours  before  cooking ;  they  will  be  as  nice  as  when 

fresh.” — Downing. 

• 

Fried  Cucumbers. — Take  the  cucumber  just  as  it  begins  to 
turn  yellow,  peel  and  slice  it  in  salt  and  water,  drop  it  into 
hot  water,  and  boil  until  tender.  Season  it  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  fry  it  in  butter.  You  can  scarcely  tell  it  from  the  egg¬ 
plant. 

Fried  Oyster  Plant ,  or  Salsify. — Scrape  the  roots  as  you  would 
parsnips ;  boil  them  tender ;  then  mash  them,  and  add  an  egg 
and  some  rolled  soda  cracker.  Make  into  cakes,  and  fry  in 
butter.  Serve  while  hot. 

Another  mode  is,  to  boil  until  tender  a  pint  or  more  of  salsify,; 
mash  fine  ;  then  add  pepper,  salt,  butter,  a  few  spoonsful  of  cream 
or  milk,  a  little  flour,  and  two  beaten  eggs.  Make  into  small 
cakes,  dip  them  in  flour  or  egg  batter,  and  fry  them  brown. 

A  third  way  is  to  boil  them  soft,  take  out  the  largest,  cut  them 
in  circles,  and  dip  them  in  a  batter,  (made  of  egg,  thickened  with 
flour,  or  rolled  cracker,)  and  fry  them  in  hot  butter ;  when  brown, 
season  properly,  and  serve. 

The  water  in  which  the  salsify  has  been  boiled,  may  be  seasoned 
with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  poured  over  toasted  bread. 

Salsify  Toast. — Boil  the  salsify  in  milk  until  the  slices  are 
tender,  adding  pepper,  salt,  and  butter.  When  ready  to  serve, 
stir  in  two  or  three  well-beaten  eggs,  taking  care  not  to  let  it 
boil  afterward.  Pour  it  over  slices  of  toasted  bread. 

To  keep  Celery  through  the  Winter. — Take  up  the  plants,  cut 


VEGETABLES.  143 

off  a  portion  of  the  leaves,  and  pack  the  plants  in  a  box  or  barrel, 
with  the  roots  down.  After  putting  as  many  side  by  side  as 
there  is  room  for,  sift  in  dry  sand  enough  to  cover  them,  and  put 
in  another  layer  of  the  plants,  sanding  as  before,  and  so  on  until 
the  box  is  full.  Keep  it  in  a  cool  cellar  or  room,  where  little 
frost  can  reach  them. 

Another  wray  to  pack  them,  is  to  set  the  plants  closely  to¬ 
gether  on  the  bottom  of  the  cellar,  and  cover  with  sand  nearly  to 
the  top  of  them. 

The  blanched  leaf-stalks  of  celery  are  much  eaten  with  us  ;  in 
foreign  countries,  the  unblanched  leaves  are  used  for  soups.  The 
root  of  a  certain  variety,  called  celeriac,  is  cut  into  slices  and  put 
in  soups,  to  which  it  imparts  an  excellent  flavor.  The  Germans 
boil  these  roots  for  salad,  and,  when  cold,  dress  it  with  oil  and 
vinegar.  They  scrape  the  roots  before  boiling,  and  put  them 
over  the  fire  in  cold  water. 

Tomato  Sauce. — Peel  and  slice  the  tomatoes  in  an  earthen  or  tin 
dish.  While  cooking,  watch  and  stir  them  frequently,  adding 
salt,  pepper,  and,  at  the  last,  a  little  butter.  If  they  are  very 
juicy,  stew  them  well,  as  the  flavor  is  improved  by  a  good  deal 
of  cooking.  Serve  cold. 

Tomato  Toast. — Prepare  the  tomatoes  as  for  sauce,  and  while 
they  are  cooking,  toast  two  slices  of  bread  very  brown,  but  not 
burned,  butter  them  on  both  sides,  and  pour  the  tomato  sauce  over 
them. 

Tomato  for  Winter  Use. — “  Every  housekeeper  fond  of  fresh 
tomato  sauce,  can  have  it  through  the  winter  by  drying  tomatoes, 
during  the  season,  on  every  baking-day,  after  the  following  rule : 
choose  tomatoes  of  small  or  moderate  size  ;  gather  them  when 
quite  ripe,  but  before  they  get  to  be  watery ;  scald  them  in  boil- 


DINNER. 


144 

ing  water;  peel,  then  squeeze  them  a  little.  Spread  them  on 
plates,  and  dry  them  in  a  brick  oven  from  which  the  bread  has 
been  taken.  Leave  the  dishes  in  all  night.  Put  them  away  in 
hags  in  a  dry  place.  When  you  wish  to  cook  any  of  this  tomato, 
soak  it  a  few  hours  in  warm  water,  then  stew,  as  you  would  the 
fresh  tomato.” — Downing. 

Egg-Plant. — Cut  it  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and 
let  them  soak  two  hours  in  cold  salt  and  water.  Then  fry  them 
in  butter,  letting  them  brown  thoroughly. 

Green  Melons  prepared  as  Egg-Plant — Green  melons  that 
come  on  too  late  in  the  season  to  ripen,  are  excellent,  when  cut 
into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  fried  like  egg-plants, 
in  butter. 

Mushrooms. — It  is  important  for  persons  who  employ  mush¬ 
rooms  as  food  to  be  able  to  distinguish  the  wholesome  from  the 
poisonous.  The  following  general  rules  are  given  by  M.  Richard, 
in  the  Dictionnaire  des  Drogues  :  Those  should  be  rejected  which 
have  a  narcotic  or  fetid  odor,  or  an  acrid,  bitter,  or  very  acid 
taste ;  which  occasion  a  sense  of  constriction  in  the  throat  when 
swallowed ;  which  are  very  soft,  liquefying,  changing  color,  and 
assuming  a  bluish  tint  upon  being  bruised  ;  which  exude  a  milky, 
acrid,  and  styptic  juice ;  which  grow  in  very  moist  places,  and 
upon  putrefying  substances ;  in  fine,  all  such  as  have  a  coriaceous, 
ligneous,  or  corky  consistence.  The  last  are  injurious  in  conse¬ 
quence  rather  of  their  indigestible,  than  of  their  poisonous  nature. 
Even  mushrooms  which  are  usually  edible,  may  prove  poisonous, 
if  collected  too  late,  or  in  places  which  are  too  moist.”  In  general, 
those  should  be  suspected  which  grow  in  caverns  or  subterranean 
passages,  or  on  animal  matter  undergoing  putrefaction,  as  well  as 
those  whose  flesh  is  soft  and  watery.  The  safe  kinds  have  most 


SALADS.  145 

frequently  a  compact  brittle  substance ;  tbe  flesh  is  white ;  they 
grow  more  readily  in  open  places,  such  as  dry  pastures  and 
waste  lands,  rather  than  in  humid  spots,  or  those  shaded  by  wood. 

To  cook  Mushrooms. — Broil  them  nicely  over  a  hot  fire,  pepper, 
salt,  and  butter  them ;  serve  them  with  toast ;  or,  fry  them 
quickly  in  a  sauce-pan  with  melted  butter. 

A  truffle  is  a  kind  of  mushroom,  sometimes  served  as  a  salad ; 
it  is  very  good,  and  very  costly. 

Macaroni. — Soak  and  boil  the  macaroni  in  milk  and  water , 
when  soft  put  it  in  a  baking-dish,  add  one  egg,  and  bake  it  till 
browned.  Sometimes  it  is  served  without  baking,  but  does  not 
make  as  nice  looking  a  dish.  The  grated  cheese,  which  is  usually 
added  to  it  by  professed  cooks,  can  be  used  or  not,  to  suit  the 
taste ;  but  it  renders  it  less  digestible.  Macaroni  is  very  light 
and  nutritious,  and  well  worthy  the  attention  of  vegetarians. 

Rice. — For  a  side-dish  Avith  roast  meats,  put  a  cup  of  rice 
into  cold  water,  with  a  spoonful  of  salt ;  keep  it  covered  A\Thile 
boiling,  that  the  grains  may  swell,  and  do  not  stir  it  much  after 
it  is  cooked,  as  it  looks  better  where  the  grains  are  whole.  Add 
a  cup  of  milk  and  a  lump  of  butter  just  before  serving. 


SALADS. 

An  Ancient  Roman  Peasant’s  Salad. 

With  hasty  steps  his  garden-ground  he  sought ; 
There  delving  with  his  hands,  he  first  displaced 
Four  plants  of  garlic,  large,  and  rooted  fast ; 

The  tender  tops  of  parsley  next  he  culls, 

Then  the  old  rue-hush  shudders  as  he  pulls, 

And  coriander  last  to  these  succeeds, 

That  hangs  on  slightest  threads  her  trembling  seeds. 
10 


DINNER. 


146 


Placed  near  his  sprightly  fire  he  now  demands 
The  mortar  at  his  sable  servant’s  hand ; 

When  stripping  all  his  garlic  first,  he  tore 
Th’  exterior  coats,  and  cast  them  on  the  floor, 

Then  cast  away  with  like  contempt  the  skin, 

Flimsier  concealment  of  the  cloves  within. 

These  search’d,  and  perfect  found,  he,  one  by  one, 

Rins’d,  and  disposed  within  the  hollow  stone. 

Salt  added,  and  a  lump  of  salted  cheese, 

With  his  injected  herbs  he  cover’d  these, 

And  tucking  with  his  left  his  tunic  tight, 

And  seizing  fast  the  pestle  with  his  right. 

The  garlic  bruising  first  he  soon  expressed, 

And  mix’d  the  various  juices  of  the  rest. 

He  grinds,  and  by  degrees  his  herbs  below, 

Lost  in  each  other,  their  own  pow’rs  forego, 

And  with  the  cheese  in  compound,  to  the  sight 
Nor  wholly  green  appear,  nor  wholly  white. 

The  work  proceeds ;  not  roughly  turns  he  now 
The  pestle,  but  in  circles  smooth  and  slow, 

With  cautious  hand  that  grudges  what  it  spills, 

Some  drops  of  olive-oil  he  next  instils. 

Then  vinegar  with  caution  scarcely  less, 

And  gathering  to  a  ball  the  medley  mess, 

Last,  with  two  fingers  frugally  applied, 

Sweeps  the  small  remnant  from  the  mortar’s  side, 

And  thus  complete  in  figure  and  in  kind, 

Obtains  at  length  the  salad  he  designed.” 

Cowper’s  translation  of  Virgil. 

Sydney  Smith’s  Receipt  foe  Dressing  Salad. 

To  make  this  condiment,  your  poet  begs 
The  pounded  yellow  of  two  hard-boil’d  eggs ; 

Two  boil’d  potatoes,  pass’d  through  kitchen  sieve, 

Smoothness  and  softness  to  the  salad  give. 

Let  onion  atoms  lurk  within  the  bowl, 

And,  half  suspected,  animate  the  whole. 

Of  mordant  mustard  add  a  single  spoon, 

Distrust  the  condiment  that  bites  so  soon ; 

But  deem  it  not,  thou  man  of  herbs,  a  fault, 

To  add  a  double  quantity  of  salt. 

And,  lastly,  o’er  the  flavor’d  compound  toss 
A  magic  souppon  of  anchovy  sauce. 


SALADS. 


147 

Oh,  green  and  glorious !  Oh,  herbaceous  treat ! 

’Tvvould  tempt  the  dying  anchorite  to  eat ; 

Back  to  the  world  he’d  turn  his  fleeting  soul, 

And  plunge  his  fingers  in  the  salad  bowl ! 

Serenely  full,  the  epicure  would  say, 

Fate  cannot  harm  me,  I  have  dined  to-day. 

The  English  tvord  mustard,  is  said  to  have  originated  in  the 
French  phrase  “Moult  me  tarde,”  (I  wish  ardently,)  which  was 
the  motto  of  the  Duke  of  Burgundy.  He  obtained  one  thousand 
men  from  Dijon,  in  return  for  which  assistance  he  permitted  that 
town  to  bear  his  armorial  ensigns  with  this  motto.  The  device 
was  affixed  over  the  principal  gate ;  in  time  the  middle  word  be¬ 
came  erased,  and  the  other  two  were  printed  on  the  labels  which 
the  merchants  pasted  on  pots  with  this  commodity,  and  sent  all 
over  the  world. 

Spanish  mode  of  dressing  Salad. — It  is  a  Spanish  proverb  that 
four  persons  are  necessary  to  the  proper  preparation  of  a  salad  : 
— a  spendthrift  for  oil,  a  miser  for  vinegar,  a  counsellor  for 
salt,  and  a  madman  to  stir  it  all  up.  Take  lettuce,  or  -whatever 
salad  is  to  be  got ;  do  not  cut  it  with  a  steel  knife,  but  tear  the 
leaves  from  the  stem,  which  throw  away ;  wash  the  mass  in  many 
waters,  and  rinse  it  in  napkins  till  dry  ;  prepare  in  a  small  bowl, 
equal  quantities  of  vinegar  and  water,  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper  and 
salt,  and  four  times  as  much  oil  as  vinegar  and  water ;  mix  the 
same  well  together ;  prepare  in  a  plate  whatever  fine  herbs  can 
be  got,  especially  tarragon  and  chervil,  which  must  be  chopped 
small.  Since  salad  is  often  spoiled  from  making  it  long  before  it 
is  to  be  eaten,  destroying  the  crisp  freshness  of  the  plants,  do 
not  mix  the  sauce  with  the  herbs,  etc.,  until  the  instant  that  you 
are  ready  to  transfer  the  result  to  your  plate. — Then  pour  the 
sauce  over  the  salad,  powder  it  with  these  herbs,  and  lose  no  time 
in  eating. — Ford’s  Spaniards  and  their  Country. 


DESTNER. 


148 

Dressed  Lettuce. — Wash  the  lettuce,  and  examine  the  leaves 
that  there  he  no  insects  left  upon  them ;  hut  he  careful  not  to 
break  or  “wilt”  the  leaves.  Your  lettuce  will  present  a  more 
attractive  appearance  if  you  serve  it  without  dressing.  Let  each 
person  then  dress  it  to  suit  his  own  taste ;  or  the  hostess  may 
prepare  for  the  whole  company.  The  dish  of  lettuce  and  the 
cruet  being  placed  near,  first  turn  out  the  yelk  of  a  hard-boiled 
egg  into  a  cup,  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  mustard,  one  table-spoon  of 
salad  oil  and  salt.  Mix  them  well,  and  half  fill  the  cup  with 
vinegar,  and  pour  it  over  the  lettuce,  which  you  have  previously 
well  cut  up. 

Another  rule  for  dressing  Lettuce. — Take  two  large  lettuces, 
remove  the  faded  leaves,  and  the  coarse  green  ones ;  then  pull 
each  leaf  off  separately,  cut  it  lengthwise,  and  then  in  four  or  six 
pieces ;  proceed  thus  until  finished.  Having  cut  it  all  up,  put  it 
into  a  bowl ;  sprinkle  over  with  your  finger  a  small  tea-spoonful 
of  salt,  and  half  a  one  of  pepper ;  add  three  of  oil,  and  two  of  Eng¬ 
lish  vinegar,  or  one  of  French ;  with  the  spoon  and  fork  turn  the 
salad  lightly  in  the  bowl,  till  well  mixed  ;  the  less  it  is  handled 
the  better.  The  French  add  onions,  garlic,  and  sometimes — to 
improve  the  appearance  of  the  salad  when  on  the  table,  before 
being  used, — they  intermix,  with  taste  and  care,  the  flower  of  the 
nasturtium. 

Mustard  and  Cress. — These,  if  eaten  alone,  make  an  excellent 
salad ;  they  should  be  quickly  washed  and  used, — dressed  as 
lettuce. 

Salad  Sauce. — Boil  one  egg  hard ;  when  cold,  remove  the 
yelk,  bruise  it  to  a  pulp  with  a  spoon,  then  add  a  raw  yelk  and  a 
tea-spoonful  of  flour,  a  small  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter 
of  pepper ;  to  this  .add  half  a  spoonful  of  vinegar ;  stir  it,  pour 


SALADS.  149 

over  it  a  tea-spoonful  of  oil  by  degrees ;  keep  stirring,  then  a  little 
more  vinegar,  and  more  of  oil,  until  eight  tea-spoonsful  of  oil  and 
three  of  vinegar  are  used ;  season,  if  you  like,  with  celery,  or 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  onions,  two  of  parsley,  a  pinch  of 
cayenne,  and  six  tea-spoonsful  of  cold  drawn  butter.  The  white 
of  the  egg  may  be  chopped  up,  and  added.  This  sauce  will  keep 
for  some  time,  if  properly  corked. 

Chicken  Salad. — Cut  up  a  boiled  chicken  into  small  pieces, 
and  pour  over  it  the  above  salad  sauce,  seasoning  with  celery, 
and  using  melted  butter,  instead  of  salad  oil,  if  preferred.  Any 
cold  meat  or  poultry  can  be  made  into  a  relishing  dish,  by  pre¬ 
paring  after  the  above  method. 

Lobster  Salad. — Have  a  bowl  half  filled  with  any  kind  of 
salad  herb  you  like,  either  lettuce,  or  celery,  or  cauliflower,  or 
onion,  etc.  Then  break  a  lobster  in  two,  open  the  tail,  extract 
the  meat  in  one  piece,  break  the  claws,  cut  the  meat  of  both  in 
small  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  arrange  these  taste¬ 
fully  on  the  salad.  Take  out  all  the  soft  part  from  the  belly,  mix 
it  in  a  dish  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  half  of  pepper,  four  of 
vinegar,  four  of  oil ;  stir  it  well  together,  and  pour  on  the  salad ; 
then  cover  it  with  two  hard  eggs,  cut  in  slices,  and,  to  vary,  a 
few  capers  and  some  fillets  of  anchovy ;  stir  lightly,  and  serve. 

“  A  sharp  vinegar  destroys  its  own  barrel.” 


DINNER. 


150 


PICKLES. 

The  notable  housewife  has  often  wondered  how  it  was  that  all 
the  pickles  of  the  shops  were  of  so  much  more  inviting  color  than 
her  own  ;  but  when  she  is  informed  that  it  is  now  proved,  beyond 
doubt,  that  “to  this  complexion  do  they  come”  by  the  use  of 
copper,  introduced  for  the  sole  purpose  of  making  a  lively  green, 
she  will  feel  jealous  no  longer,  and  rest  satisfied  that  the  home¬ 
made  articles,  if  less  inviting  and  vivid  in  color,  are  at  least  more 
wholesome.  Chemists  have  also  found  that  the  vinegar  in  the 
bottles  owes  most  of  its  strength  to  the  introduction  ol  sulphuric 
acid.  A  simple  test  to  discover  the  presence  of  copper  in  such 
articles,  is  to  place  a  bright  knitting-needle  in  the  vinegar,  and 
let  it  remain  there  for  a  few  hours,  when  the  deleterious  metal 
will  speedily  form  a  coating  over  it,  dense  or  thin,  according  to 
the  amount  which  exists.  Wherever  large  quantities  are  found, 
it  is  wilfully  inserted  for  the  purpose  of  producing  the  bright 
green  color ;  but  a  small  quantity  may  find  its  way  into  the 
pickles  in  the  process  of  boiling  in  copper  pans.  Instances  are 
known  of  sickness,  produced  by  eating  pickles  that  had  been  al¬ 
lowed  to  remain  in  a  brass  kettle  until  cold.  A  porcelain  kettle 
is  the  safest  to  use.  After  attending  a  dinner  party  in  London, 
several  persons  were  taken  sick,  and,  without  any  known  cause, 
died  suddenly.  Many  years  after,  when  the  cook  was  near  her 
end,  she  confessed  that  through  her  carelessness  in  preparing  the 
pickles  for  the  entertainment,  these  deaths  were  caused.  Ihe 
pickles  had  been  allowed  to  remain  for  hours  in  a  brass  kettle, 
until  they  were  completely  poisoned. 

Pickled  Peaches.— To  six  lbs.  of  the  fruit,  three  lbs.  of  sugar, 


PICKLES.  151 

one  quart  of  vinegar,  cinnamon  and  spice.  Add  the  sugar  and 
spices  to  the  vinegar ;  then  heat  the  latter,  and  skim  the  surface. 
Tut  in  the  peaches,  and  boil  them  until  tender  enough  to  prick 
with  a  fork.  Take  them  up,  and,  after  a  few  days,  heat  the  vine¬ 
gar  again,  and  pour  it  over  them. 

Pickled  Pears. — Pears  are  pickled  after  the  same  rule  as  the 
above  for  peaches. 

Pickled  Sweet  Apples.— To  half  a  peck  of  sweet  apples,  make  a 
syrup  of  two  lbs.  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  vinegar.  Toil  the  ap¬ 
ples  in  this  syrup  until  tender ;  then  remove  them,  and  make  a 
new  syrup  of  two  and  a  hall  lbs.  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  vinegar. 
Add  one  teaspoon  of  cloves,  and  the  same  of  cinnamon,  tied  in  a 
bag.  Boil  the  syrup  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes;  then  pour  it, 
while  hot,  over  the  fruit.  The  first  syrup  is  good  for  other  sauces. 

Pickled  Cherries. — To  six  lbs.  of  cherries,  three  lbs.  of  sugar 
and  one  quart  of  vinegar.  Lay  the  fruit  into  the  jar  in  which  it 
is  to  be  kept ;  dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  vinegar,  throwing  in  cin¬ 
namon  and  cloves.  Heat  the  vinegar,  and  skim  the  surface  ; 
then  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  After  standing  a  few  days,  if  it 
seems  necessary,  scald  the  vinegar,  and  pour  over  the  fruit  again. 

Pickled  Plums. — Follow  the  above  rule  for  pickling  cherries. 

Sweet  Pickled  Cucumbers.— Pare  and  cut  in  halves  ripe  cucum¬ 
bers.  Kemove  the  seeds  ;  then  to  one  quart  of  vinegar,  put 
three  pounds  of  sugar  and  spices.  Scald  them  together,  skim  the 
surface,  and  pour  over  the  cucumbers. 

Green  Pickled  Cucumbers. — Small  cucumbers  are  the  nicest 
for  pickling ;  pick  them  from  the  vines  as  you  find  them  of  the 
right  size,  and  lay  them  in  salted  water.  When  you  have  gathered 
enough  for  a  full  jar,  soak  them  in  clear  water  for  twelve  houis  ; 


DINNER. 


152 


then  place  them  in  the  jar,  heat  spiced  vinegar  and  pour  it  over 
them ;  cloves  and  red  pepper  are  the  proper  spices  for  this  vine¬ 
gar.  These  pickles  are  for  immediate  use.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  heat  the  vinegar  a  second  time,  and  pour  it  hot  over  the  pickles 
as  before.  Cucumbers  to  keep  for  winter  pickles,  when  first  picked, 
should  be  rinsed  and  laid  down  in  a  jar  or  tub,  with  salt  on  the 
bottom  ;  then  a  layer  of  cucumbers,  another  of  salt,  and  so  on,  un¬ 
til  the  tub  is  full.  Some  persons  keep  them  in  a  strong  brine  of 
salt  and  water,  laying  a  weight  upon  them  to  keep  them  down. 
Before  putting  the  weight  upon  them,  spread  a  cloth  upon  the  cu- 
umbers,  fastening  it  with  cross  sticks ;  upon  this,  lay  the  weight. 
This  cloth  is  to  keep  the  scum  which  is  upon  the  surface  of  the 
brine  from  the  pickles.  By  either  of  the  above  methods,  the  cu¬ 
cumbers  will  keep  for  months.  When  you  wish  to  put  them  to  the 
vinegar,  prepare  them  after  the  following  manner. 

Preparing  Winter  Pickles. — Take  them  from  the  brine,  place 
them  over  the  fire,  and  cover  with  fresh  water ;  .when  they  are 
scalded,  take  them  from  the  fire,  and  after  throwing  a  little  salt 
into  the  water,  set  them  (in  the  kettle)  to  cool.  The  next  day 
pour  off  the  water,  cover  them  again  with  fresh  water,  scald  up 
and  set  away  to  cool,  throwing  in  a  little  salt  as  before.  Kepeat 
this  process  for  nine  days  ;  then  scald  the  vinegar,  dissolving  in 
it  a  bit  of  alum  the  size  of  a  nutmeg  for  a  moderate-sized  jar  of 
pickles  ;  while  hot,  pour  the  vinegar  over  the  cucumbers  ;  after  a 
J  a  few  days,  if  necessary,  heat  the  vinegar  a  second  time,  and  pour 
it  over  them.  Pickles  thus  prepared  have  no  white  scum  rising  on 
the  surface. 

Pickled  Beets. — Boil  them  until  tender,  and  while  hot,  drop 
them  whole,  if  small,  into  spiced  vinegar ;  if  large,  slice  the  beets. 
The  spiced  vinegar  in  which  peaches  have  been  pickled,  is  very 
good  for  beets. 

Pickled  Cauliflower. — Break  off  the  flowers,  put  a  layer  of  them 


PICKLES.  153 

in  a  jar,  and  sprinkle  salt  over  them ;  then  another  layer  of  the 
cauliflowers ;  then  salt,  and  so  on.  Let  them  remain  two  or  three 
days  ;  then  wash  off  the  salt,  and  pour  spiced  vinegar  boiling  hot 
over  them.  If  necessary,  heat  the  vinegar  a  few  days  after,  and 
pour  it  over  them  again. 

Boiled  Fielded  Cabbage. — Wash  the  heads  thoroughly,  cut  them 
into  quarters,  and  boil  until  tender  ;  then  put  them  down  in  layers 
.  in  a  tub,  sprinkling  upon  each  layer  salt,  allspice,  and  ground 
cinnamon,  using  two  oz.  of  salt,  and  one  oz.  each  of  cinnamon 
and  allspice  to  eight  quarts  of  cabbage.  When  put  down,  cover 
all  with  vinegar.  The  boiling  before  pickling  is  esteemed  by 
many  a  decided  improvement  upon  the  old  method  of  pickling 
raw  cabbage,  which  is  done  as  follows : — Chop  the  cabbage  fine, 
salt  and  pepper  it ;  lay  it  in  a  stone  jar,  and  slice  over  it  a  boiled 
red  beet  and  an  onion,  if  you  like  it ;  then  cover  Avith  scalding 
hot  vinegar  into  Avhich  spices  have  been  thrown. 

Pickled  Nastur lions. — Gather  the  seeds  when  green,  and  not 
quite  fully  groAvn  ;  drop  them  into  vinegar  as  you  gather  them ; 
Avhen  you  have  a  sufficient  quantity,  scald  the  Avhole  in  the  vine¬ 
gar  and  bottle  them. 

Pickled  Walnuts  or  Butternuts. — Gather  the  nuts  Avhen  so  green 
that  a  pin  can  be  thrust  through  them ;  scald  them  in  hot  water, 
and  rub  them  in  a  cloth  to  remove  the  roughness ;  soak  them  in 
salt  brine  for  a  week  or  so ;  pierce  them  with  an  awl  or  needle, 
and  put  them  in  close  jars,  covering  them  with  scalding  vinegar, 
in  which  are  cloves,  cinnamon,  &c. 

Pickled  Onions. — Boil  small  onions  (until  about  half  cooked) 
in  salted  Avater ;  then,  Avhile  hot,  drop  them  into  a  jar  of  spiced 
vinegar.  Pepper  is  the  best  spice  for  this  vinegar. 


154  DINNER. 

Pepper  grows  in  Sumatra.  It  is  a  vine  or  creeping  plant,  the 
fruit  hanging  in  clusters  like  the  currant.  This  vine  runs  upon  a 
pole.  When  the  fruit  is  gathered  at  the  proper  time,  it  shrinks 
but  little ;  a  person  skilled  in  the  trade  can  easily  distinguish 
what  has  been  picked  prematurely,  by  rubbing  it  in  the  hand, 
when  it  will  impart  much  dust,  and  even  sometimes  crumble 
into  dust. 

It  is  said,  that  to  chew  parsley  after  eating  onions,  will  re¬ 
move  the  odor  of  the  latter  from  the  breath.  Orris  root  has  the 
same  effect. 

Mangoes. — Take  small  melons,  cut  them  lengthwise,  so  as  to 
open  and  take  out  the  seeds,  and  put  them  into  weak  brine. 
Let  them  remain  in  it  five  or  six  days ;  then  soak  them  in 
fresh  water  for  twenty -four  hours.  Prepare  horse-radish,  stripped 
in  small  pieces,  cucumbers  of  the  smallest  size,  nasturtions,  mus¬ 
tard-seed,  and  a  few  cloves.  Fill  the  melons  with  them,  and  sew 
the  halves  together,  or  tie  them  with  twine ;  lay  them  closely  in  a 
jar,  and  pour  scalding  vinegar  over  them,  in  which  are  a  few 
small  red  peppers  ;  cover  the  jar  closely. 

Pickled  Eggs. — Boil  the  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shells,  and 
lay  the  eggs  whole  in  a  glass  or  earthen  jar ;  pour  over  them 
scalded  vinegar,  with  powdered  mustard  in  it ;  the  latter  will 
color  the  eggs  a  little.  If  you  prefer  it,  spice  the  vinegar  with 
pepper,  cloves,  or  allspice.  Eggs  thus  pickled  are  excellent  with 
meat. 

“  They  hae  need  o’  a  canny  cook,  wha  hae  but  ae  egg  to  their 
dinner.” 

Pickled  Tomatoes. — Small  tomatoes,  when  ripe,  are  the  best 
for  pickling.  Let  them  stand  in  salt  and  water  twelve  hours ; 
rinse  them,  stick  cloves  into  each,  and  put  them  into  a  jar ;  pour 


DRINKS. 


155 

hot  vinegar  over  them,  cover  closely,  and  if  it  do  not  penetrate 
sufficiently,  heat  the  vinegar  a  second  time. 

Iligdom. — A  large  supply  of  green  tomatoes  are  usually  found 
upon  the  vines  quite  late  in  the  season,  which  it  is  convenient  to 
preserve  in  the  following  manner: — Wash  and  chop  them  fine, 
sprinkle  salt  upon  them,  and  cut  several  onions  in  slices,  stirring 
them  in  well ;  cover  all  with  a  plate,  and  let  it  stand  twelve 
hours ;  then  pour  off  the  water  which  has  come  out  of  it,  and 
press  it  in  a  colander  to  remove  the  remainder.  Pack  it  in  a  jar 
with  good  vinegar,  salt,  pepper,  and  mustard-seed. 

The  clove-tree  is  a  native  of  the  Spice  Islands ;  the  blossoms 
are  first  white,  then  green,  and  at  last  red  and  hard,  when  they 
become  cloves.  When  dried,  they  turn  yellow,  and  then  dark 
brown. 


DRINKS. 

“  O,  how  widely  wandereth  he 
Who,  in  search  of  verity, 

Keeps  aloof  from  glorious  wine ! 

Lo,  the  knowledge  it  bringeth  to  me ! 

For  Barbarossa,  this  wine  so  bright, 

With  its  rich  red  look  and  its  strawberry  light, 

So  inviteth  me, 

So  delighteth  me, 

I  should  infallibly  quench  my  inside  with  it, 

Had  not  Hippocrates 
And  old  Andromaclius 
Strictly  forbidden  it 
And  loudly  chidden  it, 

So  many  stomachs  have  sickened  and  died  with  it.” 

Translation  from  Francesco  Redi. 


A  Greek  writer  quotes  the  following  from  an  ancient  poem, 
where  Bacchus  is  introduced  as  saying  : 


DINNER. 


156 

“  Let  them  three  parts  of  wine  all  duly  season 
With  nine  of  water,  who’d  preserve  their  reason ; 

The  first  gives  health ;  the  second,  sweet  desires ; 

The  third,  tranquillity  and  sleep  inspires. 

These  are  the  wholesome  draughts  which  wise  men  please, 

Who  from  the  banquet  home  return  in  peace. 

From  a  fourth  measure  insolence  proceeds ; 

Uproar,  a  fifth ;  a  sixth,  wild  license  breeds ; 

A  seventh  brings  black  eyes  and  livid  bruises ; 

The  eighth,  the  constable  next  introduces ; 

Black  gall  and  hatred  lurk  the  ninth  beneath ; — 

The  tenth  is  madness,  arms,  and  fearful  death ; 

For  too  much  wine,  pour’d  in  one  little  vessel, 

Trips  up  all  those  who  seek  with  it  to  wrestle.” 

French  Currant  Wine. — To  one  quart  of  currant-juice  addtwc 
quarts  of  water.  As  the  squeezed  currants  still  have  some  acid 
to  them,  put  to  them  a  pint  more  of  water  for  every  quart  of  juice 
which  you  have  previously  expressed;  squeeze  these  currants 
again,  and  add  the  juice  to  the  other  liquid;  let  the  latter  stand 
in  a  tub  over  night ;  then  skim  the  surface,  add  fifteen  pounds  of 
sugar  to  twenty  quarts  of  the  liquid ;  pour  all  into  gallon  jugs  or 
casks,  (if  you  are  making  a  large  quantity  of  wine,)  leaving  the 
cork  out  of  the  jugs,  or  the  bung-hole  open  if  you  use  casks,  until 
all  the  sediment  has  risen  to  the  top ;  draw  it  off  then  into  bot¬ 
tles.  Some  persons  add  one  gill  of  brandy  to  each  gallon  of  the 
wine  when  putting  it  into  bottles.  Like  all  other  wine,  it  im¬ 
proves  by  age.  Where  sweeter  wine  is  preferred,  one  pound  of 
sugar  is  put  to  each  quart  of  the  liquid. 

Black  currant  wine  is  an  excellent  medicine  for  fevers,  ulcer¬ 
ous  sore  throats,  and  putrid  dysentery. 

“  Drink  with  moderation ;  for  inebriety  neither  keeps  a  secret 
nor  performs  a  promise.” — Spanish  Prov 

Gooseberry  Wine  is  made  like  currant  wine,  but  with  one- 


DRINKS.  157 

third  less  sugar.  In  making  this  wine,  use  no  berries  that  have 
fallen  upon  the  ground,  or  have  been  shaded  and  grown  sour. 
To  one  quart  of  juice,  add  two  of  water,  and  two  pounds  of  sugar. 

At  one  of  the  feasts  which  Cleopatra  gave  to  Antony  at  Alex¬ 
andria,  she  dissolved  pearls  in  her  drink,  in  order  to  render  her 
entertainment  more  costly. 

Elderberry  Wine. — Pour  seven  gallons  of  water  over  three 
gallons  of  berries.  After  it  has  stood  two  days,  boil  it  an  hour, 
and  press  the  juice  through  a  coarse  cloth ;  then  add  to  it  twenty 
pounds  of  sugar,  one  half  pound  of  ginger,  one  oz.  of  cloves,  one  oz. 
of  allspice.  Boil  all  together ;  then  put  it  in  a  tub,  and,  when  cold, 
add  some  yeast  spread  on  toasted  bread  ;  after  two  days,  put  all 
in  a  cask,  leaving  the  bung  loose  for  two  months ;  add  afterward 
one  quart  of  brandy. 

Parsnip  Wine. — A  delicious  wine  may  he  made  from  parsnips. 
Wash  and  scrape  the  roots  clean,  cut  them  up  fine,  and  to  every 
quart  of  the  cut  roots,  add  one  quart  of  water ;  boil  them  a  little 
more  than  an  hour ;  strain  the  liquid,  and  to  each  gallon,  add 
three  and  a  half  pounds  of  coarse  sugar ;  stir  it  well,  and  when 
cool,  set  it  to  work  with  some  yeast  on  a  piece  of  toasted  bread. 
After  standing  from  twelve  to  eighteen  hours,  draw  it  into  casks, 
having  sufficient  liquid  to  fill  the  cask  from  time  to  time,  as  is 
necessary  in  the  process  of  working.  After  it  is  done  working, 
close  the  hung  firmly,  and  let  it  stand  a  year ;  then  draw  it  into 
bottles,  putting  a  lump  of  sugar  in  each  bottle.  This  process  is 
commenced  in  the  spring  of  the  year  after  the  parsnips  have  re¬ 
mained  in  the  ground  all  winter. 

Raspberry  Wine,  when  made  like  the  currant,  is  said  to 
he  the  most  delicious  of  all  home  wines. 

“  Keep  to  old  wine  and  old  friends.” 


DINNER. 


158 

Fountains  of  Wine. — During  the  progress  of  Richard  II.  and 
his  first  queen  through  the  country,  “  at  the  upper  end  of  Chepe, 
was  a  pageant  of  a  castle  with  towers,  from  two  sides  of  which 
ran  fountains  of  wine.” 

When  the  King  and  Queen  approached  the  conduit  at 
Cheapside,  red  and  Avhite  wine  played  from  the  spouts  of  a  tower 
erected  against  it,  and  the  royal  pair  were  served  “  with  rosy 
wine,  smiling  in  golden  cups.” 

In  Russia,  whortleberries  are  made  into  brandy  and  wine. 

The  German  drink,  “  kirchwasser,”  is  obtained  from  the  com¬ 
mon  black  cherry ;  the  stones  are  ground  and  broken  with  the 
pulp  ;  the  whole  is  fermented,  and  a  distilled  liquor  obtained. 
“  Mareschino,”  a  liquor  of  Italy,  is  obtained  from  a  small  cherry ; 
honey  being  mixed  with  the  leaves  and  fruit  during  the  process 
of  fermentation. 

The  cultivated  cherry  was  brought  from  Asia  Minor  by  the 
Roman  general,  Lucullus,  and  planted  in  his  garden  in  Italy. 

There  are  only  two  secrets  a  man  cannot  keep — 

One  when  he’s  in  love,  t’other  when  he’s  drunk  deep ; 

For  these  facts  are  so  proved  by  his  tongue  or  his  eyes, 

That  we  see  it  more  plainly  the  more  he  denies. —  Old  Pod. 

Metheglin. — Mix  one  and  a  half  barrel  of  water  with  as  much 
honey  as  will  cause  an  egg  to  rise  a  little  above  the  water ;  then 
boil  the  mixture  to  one  barrel,  skimming  off  the  surface;  it  will 
be  a  fine  red  or  wine  color,  and  clear ;  then  remove  it  from  the 
fire,  and  when  cold,  put  it  into  a  barrel,  leaving  the  bung-hole 
open  for  several  days  until  the  fermentation  be  over ;  then  stop 
it  close,  and  put  into  a  cold  cellar. 

Ginger  Beer. — Three  gallons  of  cold  spring  water,  one  quart 
of  molasses,  one  table-spoon  of  cream-of-tartar,  three  table-spoons 
of  ginger,  one  quart  of  yeast ;  mix  together  in  a  tub,  and  stand 


DRINKS. 


159 

for  six  hours.  It  may  then  he  bottled,  and  will  be  fit  for  drink¬ 
ing  in  one  day. 

“It  is  climate  that  suggests  the  quality  of  drinks.  While 
the  North  is  cunning  in  the  distillation  of  strong  liquors,  the 
South  is  equally  remarkable  for  the  ingenuity  with  which  cooling 
drinks  are  prepared — from  the  choice  lemonade  and  orgeat,  to 
the  delicious  chopped  ice-sherbet,  with  the  orange-flo-wer  flavor.” 

Raspberry  Vinegar ,  ( Straivberries  are  done  in  the  same  way.) — 
Put  two  quarts  of  ripe  fresh  berries  into  a  stone  jar,  and  pour  on 
them  a  quart  of  vinegar ;  let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours ;  then 
strain  it  through  a  sieve,  or  flannel  bag ;  pour  the  liquid  over 
twro  more  quarts  of  fresh  berries,  and  let  it  again  infuse  for 
twenty-four  hours  ;  then  strain  it  a  second  time  ;  then  to  every 
pint  of  juice  take  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  ;  let  it  melt  in  the  liquor  ; 
put  the  whole  into  a  stone  jar,  cover  it  closely,  and  set  it  into  a 
kettle  of  boiling  -water,  which  must  be  kept  on  a  quick  boil  for  an 
hour;  strain  it  well,  and  when  cold,  bottle  it  for  use.  When 
mixed  with  water,  it  is  a  pleasant  cooling  beverage  in  warm 
■weather,  or  in  cases  of  fever. 

Imperial. — Take  two  gallons  of  water,  two  oz.  of  ginger, 
bruised,  and  two  lemons ;  boil  them  together ;  when  lukewarm, 
pour  the  whole  on  one  and  a-half  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  two 
oz.  of  cream-of-tartar ;  add  four  table-spoonsful  of  yeast,  and  let 
them  work  together  for  six  hours ;  then  strain  the  liquor,  and 
bottle  it  off  in  small  stone  bottles.  It  will  be  ready  for  use  in  a 
few  hours. 

Sherbet. — Take  nine  Seville  oranges  and  three  lemons ;  grate 
off  the  yellow  from  the  rinds,  and  put  the  raspings  into  a  gallon 
of  water,  with  three  pounds  of  double  refined  sugar,  and  boil  it 
to  a  candy  height ;  then  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  add  the  pulp  of 


160  DINNER. 

the  oranges  and  lemons  ;  keep  stirring  it  till  it  is  almost  cold ; 
then  put  it  in  a  vessel  for  use. 

Lemon  Water. — Put  two  slices  of  lemon,  thinly  pared,  into 
a  tea-pot,  with  a  little  bit  of  the  peel,  and  a  bit  of  sugar,  or  a 
large  spoonful  of  capillaire  ;  pour  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  and 
stop  it  close  for  two  hours. 

Egg-Flip,  (or  Egg  Posset .) — Beat  up  well  the  yelks  of  eight 
eggs,  with  refined  sugar  pulverized,  and  a  grated  nutmeg ;  then 
extract  the  juice  from  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  by  rubbing  loaf-sugar 
upon  it,  and  put  the  sugar  with  a  piece  of  cinnamon,  and  a  bottle 
of  wine  into  a  sauce-pan ;  place  it  on  the  fire,  taking  it  off  when 
it  boils ;  then  add  a  single  glass  of  cold  white  wine ;  put  the 
liquor  into  a  spouted  jug,  and  pour  it  gradually  among  the  yelks 
of  eggs  ;  all  must  he  kept  well  stirred  while  the  liquid  is  pouring 
in ;  if  it  he  not  sweet  enough,  add  loaf  sugar  :  and,  lastly,  pour 
the  mixture  as  swiftly  as  possible  from  one  vessel  to  another, 
until  it  yields  a  fine  froth.  Observe,  that  if  the  wine  he  poured 
boiling  hot  among  the  eggs,  the  mixture  will  curdle,  and  the 
posset  he  spoiled.  This  beverage  should  he  drank  hot. 

This  and  the  three  preceding  receipts  belong  to  the  “  Oxford 
drinks,”  given  by  William  Hone. 

In  the  early  ages  of  the  world,  snow  and  ice  were  used  to 
cool  the  drinks.  The  custom  of  cooling  drinks  ivith  saltpetre  was 
introduced  into  Italy  in  the  sixteenth  century. 

The  Thirst  of  Tantalus . — “I  saw,”  says  Homer’s  Ulysses, 
“  the  severe  punishment  of  Tantalus.  In  a  lake,  whose  water 
approached  to  his  lips,  he  stood  burning  with  thirst,  without  the 
power  to  drink.  Whenever  he  inclined  his  head  to  the  stream, 
some  deity  commanded  it  to  be  dry,  and  the  dark  earth  appeared 
at  his  feet.  Around  him  lofty  trees  spread  their  fruits  to  view  ; 


DRINKS.  161 

the  pear,  the  pomegranate,  and  the  apple, — the  green  olive  and 
the  luscious  fig,  quivered  before  him ;  which,  whenever  he  extended 
his  hand  to  seize  them,  were  snatched  by  the  winds  into  clouds 
and  obscurity.” 

Piment,  Morcit ,  Mead ,  and  Perry ,  were  ancient  beverages  in 
England.  The  favorite  drinks  in  the  seventeenth  century  were 
Buttered  Ale,  Bristol  Milk,  and  Lamb's  Wool. 

Buttered  Ale  was  composed  of  sugar,  cinnamon,  butter  and 
beer  brewed  without  hops.  Ale  was  universally  popular  with  all 
classes.  “  The  invention  of  bottling  ale  is  ascribed  to  Nowell, 
who  is  said  to  have  taken  some  ale  in  a  bottle  with  him  when  he 
wrent  angling  at  one  time,  forgot  it  in  the  grass,  and  found  it  a  few 
days  afterwards,  not  a  bottle  any  longer,  but  a  gun,  from  the 
noise  it  made  when  the  cork  was  drawn.” — Isaac  Wcdlon. 

Bristol  Milk  was  a  sort  of  milk  punch. 

Lamb's  Wool  was  made  of  ale  mixed  with  sugar,  nutmeg,  and 
the  pulp  of  roasted  apple.  On  the  first  of  November,  it  wms  an 
ancient  Celtic  practice  to  indulge  in  a  sort  of  feast,  which  was 
called  La-mas  Ubhal,  the  day  of  the  apple  fruit ;  because  on  that 
occasion,  roasted  apples  were  bruised  and  mixed  in  ale,  milk,  or 
wine.  This  is  the  origin  of  “  Lamb’s  Wool.” 

Orange  Wine,  and  Wormwood  Wine,  are  mentioned  by  writers 
of  that  age.  Ipocras  was  a  favorite  preparation  of  red  wine, 
strained  through  a  woollen  hag,  filled  with  spice  and  sugar. 

At  the  time  of  which  we  treat,  wines  were  not  only  taken  new 
and  strong,  hut  had  usually  sugar  added  to  them  at  the  time  of 
drinking.  Punch  received  the  countenance  of  the  rich  and  hon¬ 
orable,  but  Sack  Posset,  on  especial  occasions,  wTas  supreme  fashion. 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  a  letter  describing  the  fes¬ 
tivities  at  Belvoir  Castle,  in  1693,  on  the  arrival  of  Lord  Ross 
with  his  bride : 

“After  a  feast,  which  was  exceeding  magnificent,  the  whole 

11 


DINNER. 


162 

company  went  in  procession  to  the  great  hall — the  bride  and 
bridegroom  first,  and  all  the  rest  in  order,  two  and  two  ;  there  it 
was  the  scene  opened,  and  the  great  cistern  appeared,  and  the 
healths  began  ;  first  in  spoons,  some  time  after  in  silver  cups ;  and 
though  the  healths  were  many,  and  great  variety  of  names  given 
to  them,  it  was  observed,  after  an  hour’s  hot  service,  the  posset  did 
not  sink  above  one  inch,  which  made  my  Lady  Rutland  call  in  all 
the  family,  and  then,  upon  their  knees,  the  bride  and  bridegroom’s 
healths,  with  prosperity  and  happiness,  was  drunk  in  tankards 
brimful  of  sack  posset. 

Drinking  Cups. — A  writer  in  1635,  says :  “  Of  drinking  cups, 
divers  and  sundry  sorts  we  have;  some  of  elme,  some  of  boxe, 
some  of  maple,  some  of  holly,  etc.;  mazers,  broad-mouthed  dishes, 
noggins,  whiskins,  piggins,  crinzes,  ale-bowls,  wassell-bowls, 
court-dishes,  tankards,  kannes,  from  a  pottle  to  a  pint,  from  a  pint 
to  a  gill.  Other  bottles  we  have  of  leather,  but  they  are  most 
used  among  the  shepherds  and  harvest-people  of  the  country ; 
small  jacks  we  have  in  many  ale-houses  of  the  citie  and  suburbs, 
tip’t  with  silver,  besides  the  great-black -jacks  and  bombards  at 
the  court,  which,  when  the  Frenchmen  first  saw,  they  reported  at 
their  returne  into  their  country,  that  the  Englishmen  used  to 
drinke  out  of  their  bootes.  We  have,  besides,  cups  made  out  of 
homes  of  beasts,  of  cockernuts,  of  goords,  of  the  eggs  of  ostriches  ; 
others  made  of  the  shells  of  divers  fishes,  brought  from  the  Indies 
and  other  places,  and  shining  like  mother-of-pearle.  Come  to 
plate;  every  tavern  can  afford  you  flat-bo wles,  French  bowles, 
prounet  cups,  beare  bowles,  beakers ;  and  private  householders, 
when  they  make  a  feaste  to  entertaine  their  friends,  can  furnish 
their  cupboards  with  flagons,  tankards,  beere-cups,  wine-bowles, 
some  white,  some  percell  gilt,  some  gilt  all  over,  some  with  cov¬ 
ers,  others  without,  of  sundry  shapes  and  qualities.” 

King  Edgar,  that  his  subjects  might  not  offend  in  swilling 


DEINKIN  G-CUPS. 


163 

and  bibbling  as  they  did,  caused  certain  iron  cups  to  be  chained 
to  every  fountain  and  well-side,  and  at  every  vintner’s  door,  with 
iron  pins  in  them,  to  stint  every  man  how  much  he  should  drink, 
and  he  who  went  beyond  one  of  these  pins,  forfeited  a  penny  for 
every  draught.  Of  these  peg  tankards,  as  they  were  called,  an 
old  writer  says :  “  They  have  in  the  inside  a  row  of  eight  pins, 
one  above  another,  from  top  to  bottom ;  the  tankard  holds  two 
quarts,  so  that  there  is  a  gill  of  ale  between  each  pin.  The  first 
•  person  that  drank  was  to  empty  the  tankard  to  the  first  pin  or 
peg ;  the  second  was  to  empty  to  the  next  pin,  &c.,  by  which 
means  the  pins  were  so  many  measures  to  the  compotators,  making 
them  all  drink  alike,  or  the  same  quantity ;  and  as  the  distance 
of  the  pins  was  such  as  to  contain  a  large  draught  of  liquor,  the 
company  would  be  very  liable  by  this  method  to  get  drunk,  espe¬ 
cially  when,  if  they  drank  short  of  the  pin  or  beyond  it,  they  were 
obliged  to  drink  again.” 

We  are  also  told  of  globular  glasses  and  bottles,  which  by  their 
shape  cannot  stand,  but  roll  about  the  table,  thus  compelling  the 
unfortunate  Bacchanalian  to  drain  the  last  dregs  or  expose  his 
recreant  sobriety. 

The  horns  of  animals  were  apparently  the  first  articles  con¬ 
verted  into  drinking  vessels ;  the  vulgar  expression  “  taking  a 
horn,”  when  applied  to  a  draught  of  liquor,  undoubtedly  arose 
from  their  being  used  for  this  purpose. 

That  must  have  been  indeed  a  savage  feast,  where  the  skulls 
of  vanquished  enemies  served  as  cups  for  the  intoxicating  drink ; 
yet  such  a  feast  was  given  annually  by  the  governors  of  the  Scy¬ 
thian  provinces  to  commemorate  their  victories,  and  to  do  honor 
to  each  warrior  who  had  with  his  own  hand  despatched  an  enemy. 
The  skulls  of  the  vanquished  served  for  their  cups,  and  the  quan¬ 
tity  of  wine  they  were  allowed  to  drink,  was  proportioned  to  the 
number  of  skulls  they  possessed. 

The  Caledonians  served  their  choicest  liquors  in  shells.  These 


DINNER. 


164 

were  cockles,  held  with  the  thumb  placed  on  the  hinge  part,  and 
they  were  in  use  among  the  Highlanders  until  a  very  recent  period. 
Boswell  mentions  that  whiskey  was  dipped  out  in  a  shell  at  Mr. 
McSwein’s,  in  the  isle  of  Coll,  in  1773.  They  also  used  wooden 
cups,  and  a  round  vessel  with  two  handles  by  which  it  was  carried 
to  the  head.  Every  draught  among  the  Highlanders  had  its  sig¬ 
nificant  appellation ;  that  of  “ stirrup  cup”  was  given  to  that  taken 
at  the  door  of  a  house  when  about  to  depart. 

A  wooden  cup  long  used  by  Robert  Burns,  is  now  in  the  pos¬ 
session  of  a  gentleman  in  Massachusetts.  It  is  asserted  that  it 
was  turned  out  of  a  dining  table  used  by  Robert  Bruce  at  Brodick, 
and  brought  from  the  Holy  Land  in  the  time  of  the  Crusaders. 
Of  the  authenticity  of  these  statements  there  may  be  some  doubt. 

Among  the  curiosities  at  General  Jackson’s  residence,  the 
Hermitage,  is  a  double  cup,  that  is,  two  cups  with  one  bottom,  so 
that  when  one  is  turned  up,  the  other  is  turned  down.  It  is  of 
hickory,  and  is  simply  a  block  about  one  foot  in  length,  with  both 
ends  hollowing,  and  was  cut  on  Long  Island  from  a  hickory 
sprout,  the  parent  stem  of  which  was  severed  by  a  cannon  ball  in 
the  war  of  the  Revolution.  Although  not  strictly  under  this  head, 
yet  as  belonging  to  the  drinking  vessels,  we  will  mention  a  wooden 
pitcher  belonging  also  to  the  Hermitage : 

It  was  made  of  wood  from  the  elm  tree  under  which  William 
Penn  made  the  celebrated  Indian  Treaty.  The  pitcher  was  made 
and  presented  by  the  coopers  of  Philadelphia  to  General  Jackson. 
Although  not  larger  than  a  common  cream-jug,  it  contains  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  staves  ;  the  hoops,  lip  and  handle  are  of  silver ; 
the  bottom  is  a  magnifying  glass  which  enables  you  to  see  the 
joints,  which  are  not  visible  to  the  naked  eye. 

There  is  an  immense  silver  gilt  punch  bowl  at  Jesus  College, 
Oxford,  which  will  hold  ten  gallons.  Its  ladle  will  hold  half  a 
pint.  It  is  filled  on  St.  David’s  Day  with  what  is  called  “  swig,” 
for  a  wassail  bowl,  and  handed  to  the  guests  at  the  hospitable  board. 


DRINKING- CUPS. 


165 

The  drinking  cups  belonging  to  the  nobles  of  Borne  were  made 
of  precious  stones,  or  porcelain,  or  of  gold  and  silver ;  and  at  ban¬ 
quets  were  sometimes  crowned  with  flowers. 

“  It  is  customary  at  meetings  of  the  Highland  societies  to  ac¬ 
company  certain  toasts  with  ‘  Celtic  honors,’  which  are  thus  be¬ 
stowed  :  The  chief  or  chairman,  standing  up,  gives  the  toast,  and, 
with  a  slight  wave  of  the  hand,  repeats  three  times — ‘  Suas  e,’ 
‘  suas  <?,’  *  suas  e]  up  with  it — up  with  it — up  with  it — the  whole 
’  company  also  standing,  and  joining  him  in  three  short  huzzas. 
This  is  repeated,  when  he  then  pronounces  the  word  ‘  nish  ’  also 
three  times,  with  peculiar  emphasis,  in  which  he  is  joined  by  the 
company,  who  dwell  a  considerable  time  on  the  last  cheer.  As  the 
company  sit  down,  the  piper  strikes  up  an  appropriate  tune.” — 
Scottish  Antiquities. 

At  the  recent  Burns  Festival  in  New  York,  the  health  of  the 
President  of  the  day,  William  C.  Bryant,  was  drank  with  “  High¬ 
land  honors,”  every  guest  standing  in  his  chair  with  one  foot  upon 
the  table. 

In  London,  at  the  city  dinners,  the  “  loving  cup  ”  is  passed 
round.  A  richly  chased  gold  or  silver  standing  cup  or  cover  (the 
gift  of  some  deceased  benefactor)  is  placed  before  the  Lord  Mayor, 
or  Master,  and  the  Master  of  Ceremonies  proclaims,  “  The  master 
bids  all  welcome,  and  greets  you  all  in  the  loving  cup.”  The 
clothworkers  boast  their  “Pepys  ”  and  other  cups  ;  the  barbers  those 
of  Henry  VI1L,  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  Charles  II.,  and  so  on  with 
the  other  trades  and  avocations.  The  cup  or  cups,  filled  with 
spiced  wine,  are  passed  round.  As  each  receives  the  cup,  his 
nearest  neighbor  rises,  takes  oft  the  cover,  and,  standing,  holds 
it  until  the  drinker  has  done,  when  he  passes  on  the  cup,  and  is 
in  like  way  helped  by  his  neighbor.  This  old  custom  of  pledg¬ 
ing,  is  reverentially  kept  up  by  the  citizens,  as  implying  the  mu¬ 
tual  service  and  brotherhood  of  all. 


DINNER. 


166 


DESSERT. 

- Let  us  tread  the  maze 

Of  autumn,  unconfined ;  and  taste,  revived. 

The  breath  of  orchard  big  with  bending  fruit. 

Obedient  to  the  breeze  and  beating  ray, 

From  the  deep-loaded  bough  a  mellow  shower 
Incessant  melts  away.  The  juicy  pear 
Lies,  in  a  soft  profusion,  scatter’d  round. 

A  various  sweetness  swells  the  gentle  race ; 

By  nature’s  all-refining  hand  prepared; 

Of  temper’d  sun,  and  water,  earth,  and  air, 

In  ever-changing  composition  mix'd. 

Such,  falling  frequent  through  the  chiller  night, 

The  fragrant  stores,  the  wide  projected  heaps 
Of  apples,  which  the  lusty-handed  year, 

Innumerous,  o’er  the  blushing  orchard  shakes ; 

A  various  spirit,  fresh,  delicious,  keen, 

Dwells  in  their  gelid  pores;  and,  active,  points 
The  piercing  cider  for  the  thirsty  tongue. 

Thomson. 

Desserts  op  the  Olden  Time. 

I  crack  my  brains  to  find  out  tempting  sauces, 

And  raise  fortifications  in  the  pastry, 

Such  as  might  serve  for  models  in  the  Low  Countries, 

Which,  if  they  had  been  practised  at  Breda, 

Spinola  might  have  thrown  his  cap  at  it,  and  ne’er  took  it. 

Lady  Allworth's  cook,  in  New  Way  to  Pay  Old  Debts. 

The  pastry  and  confections  of  tlie  olden  time  are  much  cele¬ 
brated.  Whole  heroic  poems  were  represented  in  them ;  castles, 
and  battles,  and  sieges,  and  armor  bristling  terribly. 

It  might  be  comparatively  easy  to  build  up  square  castles  and 
bulwarks  in  stiff  and  sturdy  paste ;  but  to  construct  what  were 
called  “  subtleties  ”  of  sweetmeats,  formed  in  every  possible  de¬ 
vice.  must  have  required  great  skill.  These  subtleties  were  some¬ 
times  displayed  between  the  courses,  and  sometimes  they  were 


DESSERT.  167 

reserved  for  the  banquet,  or  dessert,  as  Ave  call  it.  The  following 
is  a  list  of  the  sugar-Avork  part  of  an  entertainment  given  by  the 
Earl  of  Hertford  to  Queen  Elizabeth,  in  1591 : — 

“  Her  majestie’s  arms  in  sugar  Avorke.  The  several  armes  of 
all  our  nobilitie  in  sugar  Avorke.  Many  men  and  Avomen  in  sugar 
A\rorke,  and  some  inforst  by  hand.  Castles,  forts,  ordnance, 
drummers,  trumpeters,  and  soldiers  of  all  sorts.  Lions,  unicorns, 
beares,  horses,  camels,  bulls,  rams,  dogges,  elephants,  antelopes, 
’  dromedaries,  apes,  and  all  other  beasts,  in  sugar  Avorke.  Eagles, 
falcons,  cranes,  bustardes,  heronskaAves,  pheasants,  partridges, 
quails,  larkes,  sparrows,  pigeons,  OAvles,  and  all  that  flie,  in  sugar 
Avorke.  Snakes,  adders,  vipers,  frogs,  toads,  ‘  and  all  kinds  of 
Avorms,’  mermaids,  Avhales,  dolphins,  conger-eels,  sturgeons,  and 
‘all  sort  of  fishes,’  in  sugar.  Also  grapes,  oysters,  mussels, 
cockles,  perhvinkles,  crabs,  lobsters,  apples,  pears,  plums,  leaches, 
comfits,  etc.,  etc.,  etc.,  all  in  sugar  Avorke. 

“  This  banquet,  or  dessert,  Avas  carried  into  the  gallery  in  the 
garden,  by  two  hundred  of  Lord  Hertford’s  gentlemen.  There 
Avere  a  thousand  dishes,  all  glass  or  silver ;  a  hundred  torch- 
bearers  lighted  the  Avay.” 

Destruction  of  Troy  in  a  Dessert. — Nichols  records  that  he 
Avas  present  at  a  banquet,  after  a  sumptuous  supper,  Avkere  the 
destruction  of  Troy  was  “  livelie  described  in  a  marchpane  pat¬ 
tern  ;  there  Avas  also  a  goodlie  sight  of  hunters,  Avitli  full  crie  of 
a  kennel  of  hounds  ;  Mercurie  and  Iris  descending  and  ascending, 
from  and  to  an  high  place,  the  tempests  Avlierein  it  hailed  small 
confects,  rained  roseAvater,  and  sneAV  an  artificial  kind  of  snoA\r, 
all  strange,  marvellous,  and  abundant. 

The  “marchpane”  Avas  indispensable  at  dessert,  and  Avas  also  a 
very  usual  offering  of  courtesy  to  visitors.  It  Avas  made  of  pis¬ 
tachio  nuts,  almonds,  and  sugar.  Queen  Elizabeth  Avas  presented 


168  DINNER. 

by  her  cook,  on  one  occasion,  with  a  fair  marchpane,  with  St. 
George  in  the  midst. 

Quaking  Custard. — A  most  strange  custom  prevailed  before 
and  about  the  time  of  Charles  I.  of  England.  This  was  to  have 
a  huge  “  quaking  custard  ”  on  the  table,  into  which,  at  a  private 
signal,  the  City  Fool  suddenly  leapt  over  the  heads  of  the  aston¬ 
ished  feasters,  who  Avere  instantly  bespattered  with  this  rich  and 
savory  mud.  Shakespeare  says, 

Parolles.  I  know  not  liow  I  have  deserved  to  run  into  my  lord’s  displeasure. 

Lafeu.  You  have  made  shift  to  run  into ’t,  boots  and  spurs,  and  all,  like  him 
that  leap’d  into  the  custard. 

These  custards  must  certainly  have  been  huge,  for  no  ordinary 
supply  Avas  Avanted ;  the  worthy  aldermen  not  only  ate  largely  in 
public,  but  seem  to  have  had  a  reserve  portion  for  home.  It  Avas 
quite  usual  to  send  or  take  some  of  it  home  for  their  ladies. 
Some  of  them  seem  to  have  applied  this  perquisite  to  the  further¬ 
ance  of  their  domestic  economy.  In  the  old  play,  “  Wit  in  a 
Constable,”  a  young  lady  is  reprobating  her  guardian’s  stinginess, 
and  after  referring  to  her  attire,  she  continues, 

Nor  shall  you,  sir,  (as  ’tis  a  frequent  custom, 

’Cause  you  are  worthy  alderman  of  a  ward,) 

Feed  me  with  custard,  and  perpetual  white  broth, 

Sent  from  the  Lord  Mayor’s  feast,  or  the  sheriff’s  feast, 

And  here  preserved  ten  days,  (as  ’twere  in  pickle,) 

Till  a  new  dinner  from  the  common  hall 
Supply  the  large  defect. 

Chron.  of  Fashion. 

Pyramids  at  a  Dessert. — About  tAVO  hundred  years  ago,  it  Avas 
the  fashion  to  place  on  the  board,  pyramids  of  fruit  and  SAveet- 
meats,  so  huge,  that  it  Avas  impossible  to  see  people  at  opposite 
ends  of  the  table.  In  some  houses  the  doors  Avere  made  higher, 
in  order  to  admit  the  pyramids  of  fruit.  Mad.  de  Sevigne  states 


DESSERT.  169 

that,  at  one  grand  dinner  where  she  was  a  guest,  a  pyramid  of 
fruit,  with  twenty  or  thirty  pieces  of  china  on  it,  was  so  entirely 
overset  with  coming  in  at  the  door,  that  the  noise  it  made  com¬ 
pletely  drowned  the  music  of  the  violins,  hautboys,  and  trumpets. 
It  does  not  appear  that  this  fashion  of  the  enormous  pyramids 
lasted  long,  but  in  the  last  century,  in  England,  fruit  was  always 
piled  up  in  pyramids,  and  in  quantities  which  now  would  be  ac¬ 
counted  vulgar  in  the  extreme. —  Chron.  of  Fashion. 

Horace  "Walpole  records,  of  one  most  aristocratic  fete ,  given 
by  Miss  Chudleigh,  (Duchess  of  Kingston,)  that,  “  on  all  the  side¬ 
boards,  and  even  on  the  chairs,  were  pyramids  and  troughs  of 
strawberries  and  cherries.” 

The  desserts  of  the  last  century  seem  to  have  rivalled  in  in¬ 
genuity  and  curiosity  those  already  mentioned. 

“  In  1745,  soon  after  the  celebrated  outbreak  of  the  Jacobite 
party,  the  Prince  of  Wales  had,  on  his  table,  the  representation 
in  sugar  of  the  citadel  of  Carlisle,  and  the  company  bombarded 
it  with  sugar  plums. 

“  At  a  magnificent  entertainment  at  Bedford  House,  there 
was  in  the  dessert  a  model  of  Walton-bridge ;  this  was,  however, 
in  glass.” — Chron.  of  Fashion. 

Horace  Walpole  writes,  in  1758,  “The  earl  and  countess  of 
Northumberland  have  diverted  the  town  with  a  supper,  which 
they  intended  should  make  their  Court  to  my  Lady  Yarmouth ; 
the  dessert  was  a  chasse  at  Herenhausen,  the  rear  of  which  was 
brought  up  by  a  chaise  and  six,  containing  a  man  with  a  blue 
ribbon,  and  a  lady  sitting  by  him.” 

In  1787,  the  earl  and  countess  of  Salisbury  gave  a  magnifi¬ 
cent  entertainment  at  Hatfield.  The  dessert  was  as  follows, 
being  devised  by  English  artists  alone  : 


170  DINNER. 

“  In  the  marble  hall,  in  the  middle  of  the  centre  table,  was  a 
banner  in  pastry,  with  the  arms  of  the  Salisbury  and  Hillsborough 
families.  The  top  and  bottom  pieces  consisted  of  the  arms  of  the 
county.  The  pastry  ornaments  on  the  side-tables,  were  two  large 
ships-of-war  in  full  sail,  which  were  so  well  executed  as  to  excite 
universal  admiration.  At  the  top  table  was  a  most  remarkable 
large  boar’s  head,  so  dressed  that  it  looked  more  like  a  Avaxen 
model,  than  the  masterly  hand  of  art  upon  nature.  The  tAvo 
other  supper-rooms  were  adorned  by  devices  in  pastry,  in  a  simi¬ 
lar  manner.” — From  the  “  World  ”  newspaper,  1787. 

A  year  or  two  later,  at  the  banquet  given  by  Queen  Charlotte, 
in  honor  of  the  king’s  recovery,  “  the  merely  ornamental  parts 
of  the  banquet  Avere  very  beautiful.  One  piece  of  confectionery 
represented  a  temple,  in  Avhicli  the  various  orders  of  architecture 
Avere  beautifully  and  accurately  displayed.  On  one  table  were 
various  dancing  figures ;  on  another,  the  personations  of  Faith, 
Hope,  and  Charity,  done  on  sand,  and  glistening  in  the  light.” 


PIES. 

Drink  now  tlie  strong  beer ; 

Cut  the  white  loaf  here 
The  while  the  meat  is  a  shredding; 

For  the  rare  mince  pie 
And  the  plums  stand  by, 

To  fill  the  paste  that's  a  kneading. 

Old  Christmas  Song. 

Puff  Paste. — The  folloAving  receipt  is  so  admirable,  and  the 
mode  of  operation  so  fully  explained,  that  Ave  esteem  it  the  best 
Ave  have  ever  met  with.  It  is  from  the  pen  of  M.  Soyer,  the 


TIES.  1 71 

famous  cook  and  gastronomer: — Put  one  pound  of  flour  upon 
your  pastry  slab,  make  a  hole  in  tbe  centre,  in  which  put  a  tea¬ 
spoonful  of  salt ;  mix  it  with  cold  water  into  a  softish  flexible 
paste  with  the  right  hand,  dry  it  off  a  little  with  flour  until  you 
have  well  cleared  the  paste  from  the  slab,  but  do  not  work  it 
more  than  you  can  possibly  help ;  let  it  remain  two  minutes  upon 
the  slab,  then  have  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  from  which  you  have 
squeezed  all  the  buttermilk  in  a  cloth,  bringing  it  to  the  same 
*  consistency  as  the  paste,  upon  which  place  it ;  press  it  out  flat 
with  the  hand,  then  fold  over  the  edges  of  the  paste  so  as  to  hide 
the  butter,  and  roll  it  with  the  rolling-pin  to  the  thickness  of  half 
an  inch,  thus  making  it  about  two  feet  in  length ;  fold  over  one 
third,  over  which  again  pass  the  rolling-pin  ;  then  fold  over  the 
other  third,  thus  forming  a  square,  place  it  with  the  ends  top  and 
bottom  before  you,  shaking  a  little  flour  both  under  and  over,  and 
repeat  the  rolls  and  turns  twice  again  as  before ;  flour  a  baking- 
sheet,  upon  which  lay  it,  upon  ice,  if  handy,  or  in  some  cool  place, 
for  half  an  hour ;  then  roll  twice  more,  turning  it  as  before, 
place  again  upon  the  ice  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  give  it  two  more 
rolls,  making  seven  in  all,  and  it  is  ready  for  use,  as  directed  in 
the  following  receipts.  You  must  continually  add  enough  flour 
while  rolling  to  prevent  your  paste  sticking  to  the  slab. 

Half-puff  Paste. — Put  on  the  dresser  or  table  one  pound  of 
flour,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  butter,  mix  all  to¬ 
gether,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  water,  or  little  more ;  form  a  softish 
paste,  do  not  work  it  too  much  with  the  hand,  or  it  will  make 
it  hard  and  tough ;  throw  some  more  flour  lightly  over  and  un¬ 
der,  roll  it  out  with  a  rolling-pin  half  an  inch  thick,  about  a  foot 
long ;  then  have  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  equally  as  stiff  as 
the  j)aste,  break  it  into  small  pieces,  and  put  it  on  the  paste ; 
throw  a  little  more  flour  on  it,  and  fold  it  over  in  two  folds,  throw 
some  more  flour  on  the  slab,  roll  it  out  three  or  four  times,  letting 


172  DUSTNEK. 

it  rest  between  each  two  rolls,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  When 
your  paste  is  carefully  made,  which  requires  no  more  time  than 
doing  badly,  and  your  pies  and  tarts  properly  full,  (this  is  the 
last  and  most  important  process  in  pie  and  tart-making,)  throw 
a  little  flour  on  your  paste-board,  take  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  your  paste,  which  roll  with  your  hand,  say  an  inch  in  circum¬ 
ference  ;  moisten  the  rim  of  your  pie-dish,  and  fix  the  paste 
equally  on  it  with  your  thumb.  When  you  have  rolled  your 
paste  for  the  covering  of  an  equal  thickness,  in  proportion  to  the 
contents  of  your  pie,  (half  an  inch  is  about  correct  for  the  above 
description,)  fold  the  cover  in  two,  lay  on  the  half  of  your  pie, 
turn  the  other  half  over,  press  slightly  with  your  thumb  round 
the  rim,  cut  neatly  the  rim  of  your  paste,  form  rather  a  thick 
edge,  which  mark  with  a  knife  about  every  quarter  of  an  inch 
apart;  mark,  holding  your  knife  in  a  slanting  direction,  which 
gives  it  a  neat  appearance  ;  make  two  small  holes  on  the  top ;  egg 
over  with  a  paste-brush ;  if  no  egg,  use  a  drop  of  milk  or  water ; 
the  remaining  paste  may  be  shaped  to  fanciful  designs  to  orna¬ 
ment  the  top. 

Mince  Pie. — To  one  part  of  meat,  put  two  parts  of  apples. 
Chop  the  meat  and  apples  very  fine,  and  mix  them  well  together. 
Add  stoned  raisins.  Sweeten  with  sugar,  adding  a  little  mo¬ 
lasses.  Spice  with  cinnamon  and  cloves.  Moisten  the  whole 
with  water,  and  either  brandy  or  wine ;  some  persons  prefer 
cider.  Dried  citron  sliced  thin  is  an  improvement  to  the  mix¬ 
ture.  When  preparing  to  bake  it,  after  spreading  the  mince¬ 
meat  upon  the  lower  crust,  cut  little  bits  of  butter  upon  it,  and 
then  cover  with  upper  crust. 

A  Substitute  for  Apples  in  Mince  Pies. — When  apples  are 
scarce,  you  may  make  out  of  citrons  an  excellent  substitute,  by 
boiling  them  tender  in  clear  water,  first  peeling  and  slicing  the 
citron ;  also  removing  the  seed.  After  this,  boil  it  a  little  in 


PIES.  173 

vinegar,  and  you  can  use  it  as  you  would  apples,  making  equally 
good  pies. 

Ode  to  the  “Mince  Pte.” 

{From  the  Year- Booh  of  Wm.  Hone.) 

Oh,  king  of  Cates,  whose  pastry-bounded  reign 
Is  felt  and  own’d  o’er  pastry’s  wide  domain! 

Whom  greater  gluttons  own  their  sovereign  lord 
Than  ever  bowed  beneath  the  dubbing  sword ; — 

Say,  can  the  spices  from  the  Eastern  grove, 

The  fragrant  cinnamon,  the  dusky  clove, 

The  strength  of  all  the  aromatic  train 
That  careful  Dutchmen  waft  across  the  main, 

The  pastry  frontier,  the  embattled  crust, 

Moulded  with  butter,  and  the  mealy  dust ; 

The  taper  rolling-pin,  that  white  and  round, 

Rolls  o’er  the  dresser  with  a  thund’ring  sound ; 

Can  apples,  currants,  raisins,  all  combin’d, 

Make  a  mince-pye  delight  the  taste  refin’d, 

Command  the  praises  of  a  pamper’d  guest, 

Or  court  the  palate  with  a  genuine  zest? 

No;  none  of  these  the  appetite  can  crown, 

Or  smooth  the  hungry  aldermanic  frown ; 

Weak  in  themselves  alone,  their  tastes  dispense 
Fallacious  seemings  to  the  outward  sense; 

Their  truest  influence  depends  on  this ; 

Are  these  the  objects  of  a  glutton’s  bliss  ? 

But  happy  they,  thrice  happy,  who  possess 
The  art  to  mix  these  sweets  with  due  address, 

Delight  in  pastry,  temper  well  the  crust, 

And  hold  the  rolling-pin  a  sacred  trust. 

Where  shall  the  cook  discern  so  sure  a  way 
To  give  mince-pies  an  universal  sway  ? 

For  when  the  sweets,  combin’d  with  happy  skill, 

The  light  puff-paste  with  meat  delicious  fill, 

Like  Albion’s  rich  plum  pudding,  famous  grown, 

The  mince-pye  reigns  in  realms  beyond  his  own ; 

Through  foreign  latitudes  his  power  extends, 

And  only  terminates  where  eating  ends ; 

Blest  epicures  from  every  climate  pour 
Their  gustful  praise ;  his  cumulating  store 


174  DINNER. 

Improv’d  in  sweets  and  spices,  hourly  draws 
The  countless  tribute  of  a  world’s  applause. 

Hail,  then,  exalted  pye !  whose  high  renown 
Danes,  Dutchmen,  Russians,  with  applauses  crown  ! 

Sovereign  of  Cates,  all  hail !  nor  then  refuse 
This  cordial  off ’ring  from  an  English  muse, 

Who  pours  the  brandy  in  libation  free, 

And  finds  plum  pudding  realiz’d  in  thee. 

Apple  Pie. — After  making  a  crust  of  puff  paste  before  de¬ 
scribed,  and,  spreading  it  upon  a  plate,  slice  over  it  tender  sour 
apples  ;  pour  over  these  a  table-spoon  of  water  and  a  cup  of 
sugar ;  drop  on  evenly  little  bits  of  butter,  and  dredge  a  little 
flour  upon  all ;  then  put  on  your  upper  crust  and  bake. 

In  baking  a  pie  in  a  stove  or  range,  it  is  best  to  first  set  the 
plate  on  the  back  part  of  it  long  enough  to  warm  it ;  then  set  it 
in  the  oven  on  the  upper  rack,  so  as  to  bake  the  upper  crust  quickly, 
watching  it  well;  when  it  puff's  up,  and  appears  to  be  nearly 
done,  remove  it  to  the  bottom  of  the  oven,  and  let  it  bake  the 
under  crust.  A  pie  should  be  well  watched  while  baking. 

Lord  Dudley  was  so  fond  of  apple  pie,  that  he  could  not 
dine  comfortably  without  it.  On  one  occasion  at  a  grand  dinner, 
he  missed  his  favorite  dish,  and  could  not  resist  saying  audibly, 
“  God  bless  my  soul !  no  apple  pie.” 

Mock  Apple  Pie. — One  Boston  cracker,  (or  two  soda  crackers,) 
one  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  water,  one  egg,  one  lemon ;  soak  the 
cracker  in  the  water ;  add  to  it  all  the  juice  of  the  lemon,  and 
grate  what  you  can  of  the  white,  but  not  the  yellow  of  the  peel. 
With  a  nice  crust  this  pie  is  delicious,  and  equal  to  a  green  apple 
pie  ;  it  is  therefore  very  conveniently  made  in  the  spring,  when 
apples  are  scarce. 

Jelly  Pie. — Make  a  nice  crust ;  take  two  soda  crackers  rolled 


pies.  1 7  5 

fine,  and  one  cup  of  currant  jelly  ;  beat  them  well  together,  adding 
a  little  water,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Puffets. — One  quart  of  flour,  one  pint  of  milk,  one  table-spoon 
of  sugar,  one  egg  ;  butter  the  size  of  an  egg ;  three  teaspoons  of 
cream-of-tartar,  one  and  a  half  teaspoons  of  soda. 

Custard  Pie. — For  one  pie,  beat  two  eggs  and  one  table-spoon 
of  flour  together.  To  this,  add  one  pint  of  milk  ;  sweeten  to  taste, 
’  and  grate  nutmeg  over  it ;  the  flour  and  eggs  must  be*beaten  to¬ 
gether,  otherwise  the  flour  would  settle  at  the  bottom ;  bake  in 
deep  pie-plates  ;  the  pie  is  better  for  baking  the  crust  a  little, 
previous  to  adding  the  custard. 

“  A  dessert  without  cheese,  is  like  a  beauty  wanting  in  an 
eye.” — M.  Sayarin. 

Farina  Pie. — Two  eggs,  one  pint  of  new  milk,  one  table-spoon 
of  starch,  half  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  white  sugar  to  sweeten.  Set  the 
milk  over  the  fire ;  let  it  simmer,  but  not  boil ;  soak  the  starch  in 
a  little  cold  milk,  and  when  the  other  milk  is  hot,  stir  the  starch 
in ;  then  add  the  beaten  eggs ;  sweeten  to  taste ;  let  all  boil  a 
little,  till  it  thickens  ;  then  take  it  off,  add  the  flavoring,  and  pour 
it  into  the  crust.  Bake  half  an  hour  ;  beat  the  white  of  one  egg, 
adding  to  it  a  table-spoon  of  sugar  and  a  little  of  the  flavoring. 
When  the  pie  is  baked,  spread  this  beaten  egg  on  the  top,  and 
set  it  back  into  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  brown  it  a  little. 

Cocoa-nut  Pie,  [plain.) — Make  a  plain  custard,  with  the  pro¬ 
portion  of  one  egg  to  a  pie ;  grate  to  it  one  quarter  of  a  cocoanut. 

Rich  Cocoa-nut  Pie. — One  quart  of  milk,  six  eggs,  one  cocoa- 
nut.  Grate  the  cocoa-nut  fine  ;  flavor  with  lemon,  vanilla,  or 
rose-water  ;  sweeten  with  white  sugar  ;  strain  the  custard  before 
adding  the  cocoa-nut. 


176  DINNER. 

This  rule  makes  two  pies  ;  they  should  he  haked  in  deep  pie- 
plates,  with  a  rich  crust  of  puff-paste. 

Pumpkin  Pie. — Cut  the  pumpkin  in  .  halves,  and  remove  all 
the  seeds ;  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and  put  the  whole  on  to 
boil  with  a  pint  of  water  poured  over  them  ;  this  moistens  it  suf¬ 
ficiently  at  first,  and  if  the  pumpkin  is  stirred  frequently,  it  will 
not  burn, — as  it  softens  by  cooking,  it  has  sufficient  moisture  of 
its  own.  Let  it  stew  an  hour  or  more  after  it  becomes  soft ;  then 
strain  it  through  a  colander  into  a  large  pan ;  to  each  quart  of 
pumpkin,  add  one  quart  of  milk  and  four  eggs ;  sweeten  to  your 
taste  with  sugar ;  spice  with  cinnamon  and  ginger.  After  all 
is  prepared,  set  the  pan  containing  the  mixture  upon  a  kettle  of 
warm  water,  that  the  whole  may  become  warm  while  you  prepare 
the  crusts  for  the  several  pies ;  bake  the  crusts  a  little  before 
pouring  the  pumpkin  into  them ;  then  fill,  and  bake  immediately 
in  a  hot  oven. 

Dried  Pumpkin  Pie. — Dry  the  pumpkin  after  the  following 
manner : — Boil  it  a  good  while,  then  spread  it  upon  plates,  or 
drop  a  spoonful  at  a  time  upon  buttered  paper,  which  is  laid 
on  tins,  forming  cakes,  as  it  were,  and  set  the  tins  into  a  brick 
oven  after  you  have  removed  your  baking ;  it  dries  in  this  way, 
without  getting  dusty. 

In  making  the  pies,  take  for  one  pie  three  cakes  of  pumpkin, 
and  three  eggs ;  sugar  to  your  taste ;  soften  the  pumpkin  in 
warm  milk  ;  strain  through  a  colander ;  spice  with  cinnamon,  and 
bake  in  a  deep  dish.  This  is  an  excellent  pie,  and  preferred  by 
some  persons  to  the  fresh  pumpkin. 

When  well  dried,  the  pumpkin  will  keep  more  than  a  year. 

“  Cheese  digests  every  thing  but  itself.” 

Grated  Pumpkin  Pie. — An  excellent  pie  is  made  by  grating 


PIES.  177 

the  raw  pumpkin,  adding  one  egg  and  one  cup  of  cream  for  each 
pie.  A  little  butter  improves  it.  Sugar  and  spices  to  your  taste. 

Cherry  Pie. — Lay  the  cherries  in  a  deep  baking-dish,  with 
plenty  of  sugar  and  a  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Place  an  inverted  cup 
in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  crust.  The 
cup  prevents  the  crust  from  soaking  into  the  juice  of  the  fruit. 

Ripe  Plum  and  Peach  Pies  may  be  made  after  the  above  rule 
for  cherries. 

Strawberry ,  Raspberry ,  Blackberry ,  Whortleberry ,  and  Choke- 
cherry  Pies  are  all  made  in  the  same  manner.  Spread  a  thick 
layer  of  berries  upon  the  lower  crust ;  sweeten  to  your  taste,  and 
sprinkle  in  a  little  flour.  Slit  a  place  in  the  middle  of  your  up¬ 
per  crust.  Press  the  edges  of  the  two  crusts  well  together ;  bake 
in  a  quick  oven.  Berry  pies  are  generally  so  juicy  that  they  do 
not  cut  well ;  to  obviate  this  difficulty,  some  persons  add  the  beaten 
white  of  an  egg  to  thicken  the  juice ;  but  a  better  way  is  to  add 
a  small  quantity  of  rolled  crackers. 

Prince  Menzikoff,  Prime  Minister  of  Peter  the  Great,  and  at 
the  time  of  his  death,  the  richest  subject  in  Europe,  was  originally 
a  pastry-cook,  a  hawker  of  pies  and  cakes  about  the  streets  of 
Moscow,  in  which  situation  he  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Em¬ 
peror. 

Squash  Pie. 

Take  winter  squash,  boil  soft,  and  strain  it  through 
A  sieve  or  colander,  and  add  thereto, 

For  every  pint  of  squash,  of  milk  the  same ; 

Or  what  is  better  still,  a  pint  of  cream. 

Beat  four  eggs  well ;  add  cinnamon  for  spice— 

Nutmeg  is  very  good,  though  not  as  nice. 

12 


DINNER. 


178 


Strain  through  a  sieve,  and  thus  remove 
Whatever  there  may  be 
To  offend  the  eye  or  palate 
Of  yourself  or  company. 

A  crust  then  prepare  in  a  deep  plate  or  dish, 

Bake  well,  and  when  cold,  ’twill  be  all  you  can  wish. 

Rhubarb  or  Pie-plant  Pie. — Select  tlie  largest  stalks,  peel  off 
tke  skin  carefully,  slice  tliem  fine,  and  wken  your  under  crust  is 
prepared  upon  a  plate,  spread  them  over  as  full  as  for  an  apple 
pie.  Spread  a  tea-cup  of  sugar,  two  table-spoons  of  water,  and 
dredge  a  little  flour  over  the  whole,  and,  if  you  like,  add  bits  of 
butter.  Cover  with  the  crust  and  bake. 

While  warm,  grate  white  sugar  over  it. 

Currant  and  Gooseberry  Pies  are  made  after  the  above  rule 
for  Rhubarb.  By  bottling  the  green  gooseberries  when  at  their 
full  size,  you  may  preserve  them  through  the  winter,  and  have  a 
delicious  gooseberry  pie  in  the  spring.  (See  receipt  for  bottling 
gooseberries.) 

An  Ode  to  Gooseberry  Pie. 

Gooseberry  pie  is  best ; 

Pull  of  the  theme,  0  muse,  begin  the  song ! 

What  though  the  sunbeams  of  the  West 
Mature  within  the  turtle’s  breast 
Blood  glutinous  and  fat  of  verdant  hue  ? 

What  though  the  deer  bound  sportively  along 
O’er  springy  turf,  the  park’s  elastic  vest? 

Give  them  their  honors  due, — 

But  gooseberry  pie  is  best. 
***** 

Blow  fair,  blow  fair,  thou  Orient  gale ! 

On  the  white  bosom  of  the  sail, 

Ye  winds,  enamor’d,  lingering  lie ! 

Ye  waves  of  ocean,  spare  the  bark, 

Ye  tempests  of  the  sky ! 

From  distant  realms  she  comes  to  bring 
The  sugar  for  my  pie. 

***** 


PUDDINGS.  179 


First  in  the  spring  thy  leaves  were  seen, 
Thou  beauteous  bush,  so  early  green ! 
Soon  ceased  thy  blossom’s  little  life  of  love, 
0  safer  than  the  gold-fruit-bearing  tree, 
The  glory  of  that  old  Hesperian  grove, — 
No  dragon  does  there  need  for  thee, 

"With  quintessential  sting  to  work  alarms, 
Prepotent  guardian  of  thy  fi’uitage  fine, 
Thou  vegetable  porcupine ! — 

And  didst  thou  scratch  thy  tender  arms, 

0  Jane,  that  I  should  dine? 

The  flour,  the  sugar,  and  the  fruit, 
Commingled  well,  how  well  they  suit ! 

And  they  were  well  bestow’d. 

0  Jane,  with  truth  I  praise  your  pie, 

And  will  not  you,  in  just  reply, 

Praise  my  Pindaric  ode  ? 

Southet. 


PUDDINGS. 

There  are  four  rules  to  be  observed  in  all  boiled  puddings : 

1st.  The  bag  or  cloth  must  be  soaked  thoroughly  in  hot  water, 
Avrung  and  cooled,  and  the  inside  well  dredged  with  flour,  in  or¬ 
der  that  the  pudding  shall  not  stick  to  the  cloth  when  it  is  taken 
out. 

2d.  The  water  in  the  pot  must  always  be  boiling  when  the 
pudding  is  put  in,  and  continue  boiling  the  whole  time ;  other¬ 
wise  the  water  would  soak  into  the  cloth  and  make  the  pudding 
heavy. 

3d.  As  the  water  boils  away,  always  replenish  the  pot  from 
another  kettle  of  boiling  water.  The  tea-kettle  is  generally  the 
most  convenient  and  ready  for  use. 

4th.  Never  replenish  with  cold  water,  as  that  will  make  the 
pudding  heavy. 


DINNER. 


180 

Boiled  puddings  are  always  the  best  when  eaten  directly  after 
taking  them  up  ;  but  if  you  have  any  left  after  dinner  is  over,  it 
can  be  sliced  and  set  in  the  oven  to  heat  the  next  day,  and  will 
be  good  with  hot  sauce. 

English  Plum  Pudding. — Half  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  half  a 
pound  of  raisins,  half  a  pound  of  dried  currants,  one  cup  of  sour 
milk,  two-thirds  teaspoon  of  saleratus,  two  eggs,  half  a  nutmeg. 

Stone  and  chop  the  raisins ;  the  suet  should  be  chopped  very 
fine.  Mix  in  sufficient  flour.  Some  cooks  prefer  part  bread¬ 
crumbs  mixed  with  the  flour  to  make  it  as  stiff  as  cake.  Boil 

/ 

three  hours.  For  sauce,  stir  together  one  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  cup 
of  butter,  teaspoon  of  flour.  Thin  it  with  a  glass  of  cold  water ; 
boil  two  minutes.  After  the  sauce  is  taken  from  the  fire,  flavor 
it  with  wine  or  brandy  to  your  taste. 

Previous  to  boiling  your  pudding,  soak  the  pudding-bag 
thoroughly  in  hot  water,  then  cool  it,  turn  it  inside  out,  and  dredge 
it  thickly  with  flour.  Pour  in  your  pudding,  tie  it  up  tightly, 
leaving  room  for  it  to  swell,  and  put  it  in  boiling  water ;  keep  the 
water  boiling  all  the  time.  As  it  boils  down,  pour  in  more  from 
the  hot  tea-kettle. 

“  The  proof  of  the  pudding  is  in  the  eating.” 

The  French  Prejudice  Against  Plum  Puddings. — This  na¬ 
tional  dish  of  England  has  ever  been  viewed  with  disapprobation 
by  the  French,  and  in  former  days  with  decided  aversion.  Al¬ 
though  the  leading  restaurateurs  of  Paris  have  it  upon  their  cartes , 
it  is  seldom  ordered  by  a  Frenchman. 

One  of  the  early  French  monarchs,  desirous  to  treat  the  Eng¬ 
lish  Ambassador  with  particular  hospitality  on  Christmas  Day, 
determined  to  have  a  plum-pudding  at  the  entertainment  which 
he  gave  to  him.  He  accordingly  procured  an  excellent  recipe  for 


PUDDINGS. 


181 

making  one,  which  he  gave  to  his  cook,  charging  him  particularly 
to  obey  strictly  all  the  directions.  The  weight  of  the  ingredients, 
the  size  of  the  kettle  in  which  it  was  to  be  boiled,  the  quantity  of 
water,  the  length  of  time  for  boiling,  were  all  attended  to  partic¬ 
ularly  ;  but  one  trifle  was  wanting :  the  king  forgot  the  cloth,  and 
the  pudding  was  served  up  like  so  much  soup  in  immense  tureens, 
to  the  astonishment  of  the  ambassador,  who  was,  however,  too  well 
bred  to  express  it.  Louis  XVIII.,  either  to  show  his  contempt 
'for  the  prejudices  of  his  countrymen,  or  because  it  suited  his  pal¬ 
ate,  always  had  an  enormous  plum-pudding  served  up  on  Chris- 
mas  Lay,  the  remains  of  which,  when  it  left  his  table,  he  com¬ 
manded  to  be  eaten  by  the  servants,  whether  they  liked  it  or  not ; 
his  commands,  however,  were  not  very  strictly  obeyed,  except  by 
the  numerous  English  in  his  service. 

English  Gooseberry  Pudding  ( Boiled .) — Make  a  paste  the 
same  as  pie-crust.  Take  a  bowl  or  baking  dish  that  has  a  rounded 
rim  on  its  upper  edge.  Flour  it ;  line  the  bowl  with  the  paste, 
lay  in  the  green  gooseberries,  sweeten  them,  and  cover  the  top 
with  a  crust  rather  thicker  than  the  one  inside.  Wet  a  thick 
cloth  thoroughly  in  hot  water,  wring  it,  and  dredge  flour  thickly 
on  the  inside.  Tie  it  tightly  over  the  top,  fastening  by  the  rim 
of  the  bowl.  Set  it  then  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  it 
an  hour  and  a  half.  When  served,  turn  it  carefully  out  upon  a 
platter,  keeping  the  shape  as  much  as  possible.  Use  sauce  simi¬ 
lar  to  that  for  plum-pudding,  but  flavored  with  nutmeg  or  other 
spice  instead  of  wine  or  brandy. 

English  Green  Plum  Pudding  is  made  in  tne  same  man¬ 
ner  as  the  gooseberry. 

Boiled  Raspberry  Pudding ,  (or  Blackberries.) — One  pint  of 
sweet  milk,  six  table-spoons  of  flour,  half  a  tea-spoon  of  salt,  four 
and  a  half  eggs,  one  pint  of  berries.  Beat  the  yelks  thoroughly, 


DINNER. 


182 

stir  in  the  flour,  and  add  the  milk  slowly.  Beat  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  to  a  froth,  and  add  the  last  thing.  Your  bag  being 
floured,  pour  in  half  the  batter,  then  lay  in  your  berries  (but  if 
there  be  any  juice  to  them,  reserve  that  for  the  sauce).'  Then 
pour  in  the  remainder  of  the  batter,  allow  room  for  the  pudding 
to  swell,  ancT  tie  the  bag  tightly.  Boil  two  hours.  Make  a 
sauce  of  one  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  butter,  and  half  a  tea¬ 
spoon  of  flour,  well  mixed  together,  thinned  with  boiling  water ; 
boil  it  a  minute ;  take  it  up,  add  the  juice  of  the  raspberries,  and 
grate  nutmeg  over  it. 

“  King  Arthur’s  Pudding.” 

( Old  English.) 

“  When  good  King  Arthur  ruled  this  land, 

He  was  a  goodly  king ; 

He  stole  three  pecks  of  barley-meal, 

To  make  a  bread-pudding. 

“  A  bag-pudding  the  king  did  make, 

And  stuffed  it  well  with  plums, 

And  in  it  put  great  lumps  of  fat, 

As  big  as  my  two  thumbs. 

“  The  king  and  queen  did  eat  thereof, 

And  noblemen  beside, 

And  what  they  could  not  eat  that  night, 

The  queen,  next  morning,  fried.” 

Apple  Dumplings. — Quarter  and  core  one  apple  for  each 
dumpling ;  then  put  the  parts  together,  with  sugar  in  the  middle  ; 
surround  each  apple  with  pie-crust ;  if  you  wish  to  bake  them, 
put  them  on  a  pan,  like  biscuits,  and  set  them  in  the  oven.  If 
boiled,  tie  each  in  a  separate  cloth,  and  boil  in  half  an  hour. 
Serve,  both  baked  and  boiled,  with  liquid  sauce. 

“  An  apple  that  ripens  late,  keeps  long.” 


PUDDINGS. 


183 

English  Roly-Poly  Pudding. — Make  a  paste  like  pie-crust, 
roll  it  out  on  the  bread-board,  about  a  third  of  an  inch  thick ; 
spread  over  it  jelly  or  sweetmeats  ;  then  commence  at  one  end 
and  roll  it  over  and  over,  till  it  forms  a  long,  round  roll ;  tie  it 
in  a  cloth ;  boil  one  hour ;  serve  with  liquid  sauce,  flavored  to 
your  taste. 

Boiled  Potato  Pudding. — Boil  and  mash  fine  six  or  eight 
•  good  potatoes.  Add  butter  the  size  of  an  egg.  A  sprinkling  of 
salt.  Then  add  a  beaten  egg  to  the  potatoes.  Mix  as  much 
flour  to  it  as  will  stiffen  it,  like  short-cake  dough.  Spread  a  thick 
cloth  on  your  bread-board,  sift  flour  over  it ;  then  lay  your  dough 
upon  it,  and  roll  it  out  to  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  Slice 
as  many  sour,  juicy  apples  upon  the  dough  as  it  will  enclose. 
Bring  the  edges  of  the  dough  together  over  the  apples ;  then  tie 
up  the  cloth  tight,  and  drop  into  boiling  water.  Boil  one  hour ; 
eat  it  with  sweet  sauce,  flavored  to  your  taste.  Always  serve  hot. 

Dr.  Johnson  said,  “  A  man  is,  in  general,  better  pleased  when 
he  has  a  good  dinner  upon  his  table,  than  when  his  wife  talks 
Greek.  My  old  friend,  Mrs.  Carter,  could  make  a  pudding  as  well 
as  translate  Epictetus  from  the  Greek,  and  work  a  handkerchief 
as  well  as  compose  a  poem.” 

Boiled  Corn  Pudding. — One  quart  of  corn  meal,  three  quarts 
of  milk,  three  eggs,  one  gill  of  molasses.  Stir  the  meal  and  the 
milk  together  thoroughly,  that  no  lumps  remain ;  add  the  eggs 
and  molasses ;  leave  a  good  deal  of  space  in  the  bag  for  the  pud¬ 
ding  to  swell,  for  this  one  swells  very  much.  Boil  three  hours. 

Jessie's  Corn  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  one  pint  of  mo¬ 
lasses,  three  pints  of  corn  meal,  one  tea-spoon  of  cinnamon.  Boil 
the  milk  by  itself,  then  pour  it  into  a  deep  pan,  and  stir  in  the 


184  DINNER. 

other  ingredients.  Let  the  pudding  boil  steadily  between  three 
and  four  hours.  Eat  it  hot,  with  butter  and  molasses. 

Rich  Boiled  Indian,  Pudding. — Three  pints  of  corn  meal,  one 
quart  of  milk,  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  half  a  pint  of  molasses,  six 
eggs,  a  grated  nutmeg,  three  or  four  sticks  of  cinnamon.  Clean 
the  suet  from  the  skin  and  strings,  chop  it  as  fine  as  possible,  and 
stir  it  into  the  corn  meal.  Boil  the  milk,  with  the  cinnamon  in 
it,  till  the  former  is  highly  flavored ;  then  strain  the  milk,  boiling 
hot,  into  the  corn  meal  and  suet ;  add  the  molasses ;  stir  the  mix¬ 
ture  very  hard ;  then  set  it  away  to  cool,  covering  it  lightly. 
When  it  is  cold,  add  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  grate  in  the  nut¬ 
meg.  Prepare  a  thick,  square  cloth,  as  in  the  preceding  rules ; 
dredge  it  with  flour,  and  spread  it  open  in  a  deep  dish.  Pour  in 
the  mixture,  tie  it  up  very  tightly,  leaving  about  one-third  of 
vacant  space  that  it  may  have  room  to  swell.  Put  the  pudding 
into  a  large  pot  of  boiling  water,  with  an  old  plate  at  the  bottom, 
and  boil  it  six  hours,  turning  it  often,  and  replenishing  the  pot 
with  boiling  water  from  another  kettle.  Serve  it  hot,  with  wine 
sauce  or  Avith  butter  and  molasses,  or  \\uth  a  sauce  of  butter, 
sugar,  lemon-juice,  and  nutmeg,  beaten  together  to  a  cream. 

Date  or  Prune  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  six  eggs,  one 
pound  of  dates,  four  spoons  of  flour,  tAvo  spoons  of  ginger.  Beat 
the  eggs,  half  the  whites,  in  a  cup  of  the  milk.  Mix  Avith  this 
the  flour,  ginger,  and  a  little  salt ;  then  add,  gradually,  the  rest 
of  the  milk  and  dates ;  tie  it  in  a  floured  cloth,  and  boil  it  one 
hour.  Serve  either  Avith  liquid  sauce  or  melted  butter  poured 
over  it. 

The  date-palm  groAvs  in  Arabia,  Egypt,  and  Persia,  and  many 
of  the  inhabitants  of  these  countries  subsist  almost  entirely  upon 
its  fruit.  It  is  useful  to  them  in  other  ways.  Their  camels  feed 
upon  the  date-stone.  From  the  leaves,  they  make  baskets,  bags, 


PUDDINGS.  185 

mats,  couches,  and  brushes  ;  from  the  fibres  of  the  boughs,  thread, 
ropes,  and  rigging.  From  the  sap  is  prepared  a  spirituous  liquor, 
and  the  body  furnishes  fuel.  The  fruit  grows  in  clusters  on  a 
thick,  rope-like  stem,  and  are  tied  up  in  bunches  while  ripening, 
to  prevent  their  falling.  Some  of  these  bunches  of  clusters  are 
said  to  weigh  eighty  pounds.  At  Medina,  Arabia,  there  are  six 
varieties  of  this  tree,  the  fruit  from  each  differing  in  flavor  and 
size.  This  tree  lives  about  two  hundred  years.  It  is  said  by 
•  the  ancients  to  have  abounded  in  several  parts  of  the  Holy  Land, 
though  now  they  are  rare,  and  only  useful  for  shade.  David 
speaks  of  “  flourishing  like  the  palm-tree.”  On  several  coins  of 
Vespasian,  Judea  is  typified  by  a  disconsolate  woman  sitting 
under  a  palm-tree.  Jericho  is  called  the  “city  of  palm-trees.” 
The  palm  was  borne  by  the  ancients  as  an  emblem  of  victory. 
Its  erect,  stately  form,  originated  the  idea  of  columns  in  archi¬ 
tecture. 

Sago  is  obtained  from  the  palm  of  that  name,  Avhich  grows  in 
the  East  Indies.  Young  shoots  are  constantly  springing  up  from 
the  roots,  and  grow  rapidly  to  maturity,  when  they  are  cut  down. 
The  pith  is  then  removed,  and  by  very  simple  processes  it  is  ren¬ 
dered  fit  for  food. 

Tapioca  or  Sago  Pudding. — One  pint  of  tapioca  or  sago,  one 
quart  of  new  milk,  two  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  raisins  or  prunes,  tea¬ 
spoon  of  salt,  grated  nutmeg.  Wash  the  tapioca  thoroughly, 
then  put  it  in  the  milk,  together  with  the  salt.  Set  the  dish  con¬ 
taining  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  Avater ;  in  this  manner  the 
tapioca  will  soak  Avkile  the  milk  is  heating,  and  both  Avill  boil 
together ;  stir  frequently  during  the  boiling.  Let  it  boil  some 
time,  until  the  tapioca  is  Avell  softened  and  mixed  Avith  the  milk. 
Then  remove  it  from  the  fire ;  beat  the  eggs,  to  Avliich  add  sugar, 
according  to  your  taste  ;  stir  them  then  into  the  pudding.  Pour 


DINNER. 


186 

all  into  the  baking-dish  previously  buttered,  then  drop  in  your 
fruit.  Two  table-spoons  of  sweet  cream,  or  half  a  tea-spoon  of 
butter,  are  added  last.  Grate  nutmeg  over  the  pudding,  and 
bake  immediately  in  a  quick  oven.  This  pudding  is  excellent 
with  or  without  fruit.  It  should  bake  one  hour.  For  sauce,  in 
summer  time  use  sweetened  cream,  flavored  with  vanilla,  lemon, 
or  whatever  you  like  best,  and  serve  it  with  the  pudding,  cold. 

Tapioca  Apple  Pudding. — Peel  and  core  apples  sufficient  to 
lay  around  your  baking  dish  in  a  circle,  with  one  in  the  centre. 
After  placing  them,  drop  into  each  a  teaspoon  of  sugar,  a  little 
butter,  and  a  bit  of  orange  peel. 

Prepare  the  same  quantities  of  tapioca,  milk,  etc.,  as  in 
the  preceding  rule,  and  in  the  same  manner ;  then  pour  it  over 
and  in  these  apples.  Grate  nutmeg  over  it,  and  bake  one  hour  in 
a  quick  oven. 

This  rule  makes  a  large  family  pudding. 

Serve  with  hot  liquid  sauce  of  butter,  sugar,  etc.,  flavored  to 
your  taste.  Two  table-spoons  of  cream  stirred  into  the  sauce  be¬ 
fore  serving,  gives  it  softness,  and  mqck  improves  its  quality. 

Tapioca  is  obtained  from  a  poisonous  plant  called  manihot,  a 
native  of  South  America  and  West  India  Islands.  The  roots  are 
peeled  and  pressed.  The  juice  thus  forced  out  is  a  deadly  poison, 
but  after  standing  some  time,  it  deposits  a  white  starch,  which,  when 
properly  washed,  is  quite  innocent.  This  starch  is  then  dried  in 
smoke  and  afterwards  sifted,  and  is  the  substance  from  which 
Tapioca  is  prepared. 

Sago  Apple  Pudding  ( for  Invalids .) — Pare  nice,  juicy  apples, 
force  out  the  core,  and  set  them  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish, 
just  enough  apples  to  fill  the  dish.  Take  three  table-spoonsful  of 
sago,  wash  it,  pour  boiling  water  on  it,  stirring  it  while  over  the 
tire  to  thicken  and  boil.  If  it  becomes  too  thick,  pour  more 


PUDDINGS. 


187 

boiling  water  into  it ;  when  sufficiently  cooked,  pour  it  over  the 
apples  and  set  them  in  an  oven.  Bake  until  the  apples  are 
done.  It  can  be  served  hot  with  cream  and  white  powdered  su¬ 
gar  ;  if  left  until  cold,  it  is  very  nice,  and  if  inverted  upon  a  dish, 
it  will  preserve  its  form. 

Baked  Apple  Pudding. — Six  large  apples  well  stewed,  six 
eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  pound  of  sugar,  one  glass 
of  wine.  Bake  it  in  a  thin  paste. 

Corn  Starch  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  one  tea-cup  of 
starch,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  three  eggs  well  beaten.  Dissolve 
the  starch  in  a  little  of  the  milk,  putting  the  remainder  on  to  boil. 
When  boiling,  take  it  off  and  stir  in  the  starch  first,  then  add  the 
eggs.  Turn  it  into  forms,  and  serve  cold,  or  bake  it,  which  is  an 
improvement. 

For  sauce,  beat  cream  and  loaf  sugar  together,  and  flavor  to 
your  taste ;  or  make  a  rich  sauce.  It  is  to  be  eaten  with  fruit  or 
jelly. 

This  pudding  is  very  convenient,  as  it  can  be  made  upon  short 
notice. 

“  Let  not  your  table  be  coarsely  heaped,  but  at  once  plentiful 
and  elegant.” 

Gipsey's  Pudding. — Cut  stale  cake  in  slices,  and  lay  them  in 
a  pudding-dish.  Wet  them  a  little  in  wine.  Boil  a  custard  and 
pour  over  the  cake.  Let  it  stand  until  cold. 

Baked  Batter  Pudding. — Four  eggs;  the  whites  and  yelks 
beaten  separately ;  one  pint  of  milk,  six  table-spoons  of  flour, 
mixed  until  perfectly  smooth  with  the  yelks.  Add  a  little  salt ; 
turn  in  the  milk  and  lastly  the  whites.  Bake  slowly  one  hour. 
Flavor  the  liquid  sauce  with  currant  jelly. 


188  DINNER. 

Fannie's  Batter  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  nine 
table-spoons  of  flour,  a  little  salt.  Bake  half  an  hour.  Sauce  : 
sugar  and  butter,  with  brandy  or  wine. 

Fannie's  Cocoa-nut  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  five  eggs, 
one  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  cocoa-nut,  a  little  salt.  Flavor  according 
to  taste ;  lemon  is  excellent  for  this  pudding.  Bake  half  an 
hour. 

Guests  ox  Washixg-Day. 

Woe  to  the  friend 

Whose  evil  stars  have  urged  him  forth  to  claim 
On  such  a  day  the  hospitable  rites ! 

Looks,  blank  at  first,  and  stinted  courtesy 
Shall  he  receive.  Yainly  he  feeds  his  hopes 
With  dinner  of  roast  chicken,  savory  pie, 

Or  tart  or  pudding; — pudding  he,  nor  tart, 

That  day  shall  eat;  nor,  though  the  husband  try 
Mending  what  can’t  be  helped,  to  kindle  mirth 
From  cheer  deficient,  shall  his  consort’s  brow 
Clear  up,  propitious.  The  unlucky  guest 
In  silence  dines,  and  early  slinks  away. 

Mrs.  Barbauld. 

Peggy's  Family  Pudding. — Butter  a  deep  baking-dish,  and 
spread  on  the  bottom  a  layer  of  fresh  apple  sauce,  then  slices  of 
bread  buttered  on  both  sides,  then  apple  again,  and  so  on,  until 
the  dish  is  full,  having  the  apple  at  the  last.  Pour  over  the 
whole  a  plain  custard  ;  let  it  stand  half  an  hour,  then  bake.  To  be 
eaten  with  liquid  sauce. 

Baked  Corn  Meal  Pudding. — One  pint  of  corn  meal,  half 
a  pint  of  molasses,  one  pint  of  milk,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  but¬ 
ter,  four  eggs.  The  rind  of  a  lemon  grated,  or  one  teaspoon  of 
powdered  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  mixed. 

Sift  the  meal  into  an  earthen  dish  ;  after  boiling  the  milk,  pour 


PUDDINGS. 


189 

it  over  the  meal  and  stir  them  well  together  ;  pour  the  molasses 
on  the  butter  in  another  dish,  and  warm  it  by  the  fire  until  the  but¬ 
ter  is  soft ;  then  stir  them  well,  and  mix  them  with  the  milk  and 
meal ;  afterwards  set  the  mixture  in  a  cool  place ;  beat  the  eggs 
until  very  light,  add  to  them  the  spice  and  lemon-peel.  When 
the  mixture  is  cold,  pour  the  eggs  into  it,  and  stir  the  whole  well. 
Put  it  in  a  buttered  dish,  and  bake  thoroughly. 

Serve  it  hot,  and  eat  with  a  sauce  of  powdered  white  sugar  and 
butter,  seasoned  with  nutmeg  and  lemon  or  orange  juice,  stirred 
together  to  a  cream ;  or  with  a  liquid  sauce  of  melted  butter,  wine, 
and  nutmeg. 

This  rule  is  for  a  small  pudding. 

Cracked  Wheat  Pudding. — Two  quarts  of  milk,  five  table¬ 
spoons  of  cracked  wheat,  two  eggs,  sugar  to  your  taste. 

Boil  one  quart  of  milk  and  sprinkle  the  wheat  into  it  dry ;  let 
it  boil  till  quite  soft.  Set  it  away  to  cool.  Then  mix  the  eggs 
and  sugar  with  the  remaining  quart  of  milk,  and  when  the  first 
is  sufficiently  cool,  put  them  together,  and  pour  it  in  pudding- 
dishes  and  bake. 

The  Farina  Pudding  is  made  in  the  same  way,  except  that 
four  spoons  of  farina  are  sufficient.  Serve  with  sweetened  cream, 
flavored  with  nutmeg. 

Rice  Pudding  without  Eggs. — One  gill  of  rice,  one  quart  of 
milk,  sugar  and  spice  as  you  please,  and  a  handful  of  raisins. 
Wash  the  rice  very  clean,  and,  if  convenient,  pour  boiling  water 
over  it,  and  rinse  it  off.  Boil  the  milk,  and  put  to  it  the  raisins, 
sugar,  rice,  and  spice,  and  bake  it  several  hours.  Serve  it  with 
butter  and  sugar  beaten  to  a  cream  and  flavored,  or  with  cream. 

Pace  Pudding  with  Eggs. — Wash  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  best 
rice ;  put  on  the  fire  one  pint  of  milk,  with  half  a  cup  of  fresh  but¬ 
ter  ;  bring  it  to  a  boil  and  then  put  in  the  rice,  and  let  it  be  well 


DINNER. 


190 

covered.  Steam  slowly  for  an  hour  without  stirring  it.  It  will 
then  he  well  swollen,  soft,  and  dry.  Take  it  from  the  fire,  empty 
it  into  another  vessel,  let  it  cool,  and  stir  in  two  table-spoons  of 
pulverized  sugar,  the  yelks  of  six  eggs,  and  the  grated  peel  of  a 
lemon,  then  mix  in  the  white  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  finish  your  pudding.  It  must  be  boiled  for  an  hour  and  a  half 
and  served  with  one  of  the  sweet  sauces. 

Almond  Pudding. — Six  ounces  of  finely-pounded  almonds, 
six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  one  tea-spoon  of  grated  lemon-peel, 
a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon-peel,  six  whole  eggs,  and  the 
yelks  of  two  more. 

Beat  the  eggs  well ;  then  mix  in  the  other  ingredients,  and  stir 
the  pudding  for  a  whole  hour.  Pour  it  into  a  buttered  dish,  and 
bake  it  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  A  border  of  puff-paste  around 
the  edge  of  the  dish  improves  it. 

Hominy  Dessert  Pudding. — Wash  one  pint  of  small  hominy 
and  boil  it  thoroughly;  add  one  pint  of  corn-meal,  eggs,  milk, 
and  butter.  Bake  on  a  griddle,  and  serve  with  butter  and  sugar, 
or  syrup. 

Some  prefer  wheat  flour  in  the  place  of  the  meal. 

“  He  that  desires,  wants  as  much  as  he  that  hath  nothing.” 

Hominy  Pudding. — Boil  half  a  pound  of  fine  hominy  in  milk, 
add  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  six  eggs,  half  a  nutmeg,  one  gill  of  wine,  a  little  grated 
lemon-peel.  Bake  in  a  dish. 

Balced  Potato  Pudding ,  ( Southern  mode.) — Haifa  pound  of  but¬ 
ter,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  one  pound  of  potatoes,  (boiled,)  six  eggs, 
spices  to  your  taste  of  different  kinds,  one  glass  of  wine,  one  glass 
of  brandy  and  rose-water.  Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream ; 
then  add  the  potatoes,  eggs,  etc. ;  to  beat  the  whites  and  yelks  of 


PUDDINGS.  191 

the  eggs  separately,  and  bake  as  soon  as  you  have  added  them  to 
the  other  ingredients,  will  make  the  pudding  lighter  and  nicer ; 
bake  in  paste,  or  not,  as  you  please. 

Baked  Potato  Pudding,  (. Northern  mode.) — Boil  your  potatoes, 
and  mash  them  nicely ;  then  to  one  pound  of  the  same  add  the 
following : — One  quart  of  milk,  six  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  white 
sugar,  one  grated  lemon.  Bake  about  forty  minutes. 

Pumpkin  Pudding,  (, Southern  mode.) — One  pound  of  butter, 
one  pound  of  sugar,  eight  eggs,  one  glass  of  wine,  cinnamon  and 
cloves  to  suit  your  taste.  Boil  the  pumpkin  and  strain  it  through 
a  colander ;  beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream ;  add  the  yelks 
of  the  eggs  and  sufficient  pumpkin  to  it  to  thicken  it,  afterwards 
the  beaten  whites,  the  wine  and  spices  ;  to  be  baked  in  a  paste,  or 
without,  in  a  deep  dish. 

Orange  Pudding,  (Southern  mode.) — Boil  the  rind  of  six  oranges 
in  different  waters  till  very  tender ;  take  off  the  white  of  the  skin, 
and  beat  the  peel  in  a  mortar,  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  till  quite  smooth;  put  it  away  in  a  jar  for  use ;  take  of  this 
conserve  two  table-spoons,  the  yelks  of  three  eggs,  one  large  table¬ 
spoon  of  butter,  and  a  small  quantity  of  milk  or  cream.  Put  this 
in  a  rich  paste  and  bake  it. 

Another  Orange  Pudding.- — Grate  the  yellow  part  of  the 
rind,  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  two  large,  smooth,  deep-colored 
oranges,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  half  a  pound  of  white  sugar, 
stirred  together  to  a  cream ;  add  one  wine-glass  of  mixed  wine 
and  brandy ;  beat  very  light  six  eggs,  and  stir  them  gradually 
into  the  mixture  ;  put  all  into  a  butter  dish,  with  a  broad  edge, 
around  which  lay  puff-paste  neatly  finished  off ;  bake  half  an 
hour,  and  when  cool,  grate  white  sugar  over  it. 

Lemon  Pudding  can  be  made  in  the  same  manner. 


192  DINNER. 

Lady  Bustle’s  Orange  Pudding. — “  She  makes  an  orange  pud¬ 
ding,  which,  is  the  envy  of  all  the  neighborhood,  and  which  she 
has  hitherto  found  means  of  mixing  and  baking  with  such  secresy, 
that  the  ingredient  to  which  it  owes  its  flavor  has  never  been  dis¬ 
covered. 

“  She,  indeed,  conducts  this  great  affair  with  all  the  caution 
that  human  policy  can  suggest.  It  is  never  known  beforehand 
when  this  pudding  will  be  produced ;  she  takes  the  ingredients 
privately  into  her  own  closet,  employs  her  maids  and  daughters 
in  different  parts  of  the  house,  orders  the  oven  to  be  heated  for  a 
pie,  and  places  the  pudding  in  it  with  her  own  hands ;  the  mouth 
of  the  oven  is  then  stopped,  and  all  inquiries  are  vain. 

“  She  has,  however,  promised  her  daughter  Clorinda,  that  if  she 
pleases  her  in  marriage,  she  shall  be  told  the  composition  of  the 
pudding  without  reserve.” — Dr.  Johnson. 

Bread  and  Butter  Pudding. — Cut  the  bread  in  thin  slices, 
butter  them,  and  put  a  layer  into  a  well-buttered  dish ;  strew  cur¬ 
rants,  raisins,  and  citron,  or  sweetmeats  over  it ;  then  another 
layer  of  bread  and  butter,  then  fruit,  and  so  on,  until  the  dish  be 
filled ;  beat  six  eggs  with  one  pint  of  milk,  a  little  salt,  nutmeg, 
one  spoon  of  rosewater ;  sweeten  to  taste,  and  pour  it  over  the 
whole ;  let  it  soak  one  or  two  hours  before  baking ;  bake  half  an 
hour. 

Jelly  Pudding. — Cover  the  bottom  of  a  deep  baking-dish 
with  rolled  cracker-crumbs,  spread  currant  jelly  over  them  in  a 
layer,  then  a  layer  of  crumbs,  then  jelly  again,  until  the  dish  is 
full,  with  the  crackers  on  the  top.  Pour  a  custard  over  all  and 
bake.  Serve  with  liquid  sauce. 

Apple  Dessert  Cake. — Mix  a  batter  with  sour  milk,  wheat 
flour,  a  little  saleratus,  and  salt ;  heat  and  butter  your  griddle ; 
turn  on  the  centre  of  it  butter  enough  to  make  a  cake  the  size  of 


PUDDINGS.  193 

a  large  plate  ;  turn,  and  when  done,  take  it  up  on  a  large  plate  ; 
butter  it,  and  spread  fresh  apple-sauce  over  it  while  another  is 
baking,  which  lay  upon  it,  doing,  as  before  ;  thus  continue  until 
you  have  a  number,  and  your  pile  is  a  finger  in  depth.  In  serv¬ 
ing,  grate  sugar  over  the  top,  and  cut  down  through  the  whole 
like  cake.  Any  preserve  may  be  used  instead  of  the  apple ;  also 
currant  jelly;  thus,  a  variety  in  the  dish  may  be  easily  attained. 
It  is  nice  eaten  with  maple  syrup,  or  a  sauce  as  for  puddings. 

Extempore  Apple  Pudding. — If  you  have  any  stewed  apples, 
boil  one  pound  of  rice,  and  when  it  is  hot,  stir  in  three  or  four 
table-spoons  of  the  apples,  two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  and  a  teaspoon  of  powdered  cinnamon.  Serve  it  hot  with 
sauce  of  butter  and  sugar  beaten  to  a  cream,  with  nutmeg  grated 
over  it.  The  above  pudding  can  be  varied,  by  stirring  in  berries, 
jelly,  or  any  other  stewed  fruit,  instead  of  the  apples. 

Snow  Pice  Cream. — Put  in  a  stew-pan  four  ounces  of  ground 
rice,  two  of  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  the  essence  of  almonds,  or  any 
other  essence  you  may  prefer,  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter ; 
add  a  quart  of  milk  ;  boil  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  till  it 
forms  a  smooth  substance,  though  not  too  thick ;  then  pour  it  in 
a  mould  previously  buttered;  when  cold,  it  will  turn  out  like 

jelly- 

“  In  Burgundy,  at  Christmas  time,  while  the  yule  log  is  burn¬ 
ing,  and  the  family,  seated  about,  sing  Christmas  carols,  the 
youngest  child  is  sent  into  the  corner  to  pray  that  the  yule  log 
may  bear  him  some  sugar-plums.  Meanwhile,  little  parcels  of 
them  are  placed  under  each  end  of  the  log,  and  the  children  come 
and  pick  them  up,  believing  in  good  faith  that  the  great  log  has 
borne  them.” 

Isabella  Cream. — One  ounce  of  isinglass,  dissolved  in  half 
13 


DINNER. 


194 

a  pint  of  boiling  water.  After  straining  it,  add  one  quart  of 
cream,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  One  teacup  of  crushed  sugar  is 
now  put  in,  and  the  mixture  a  little  cooled,  when  the  beaten 
yelks  of  six  eggs  are  gradually  added,  together  with  one  glass  of 
wine.  The  whole  should  be  strained,  and  stirred  until  almost 
cool,  when  it  may  be  turned  into  a  mould.  This  is  a  handsome 
dish,  as  the  yelks  of  the  eggs  gives  a  fine  rich  color. 

Bohemian  Cream.' — Take  four  ounces  of  any  fruit  which  has 
been  stewed  soft  and  cooked  with  sugar ;  pass  this  fruit  through 
a  sieve,  and  add  then  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  melted  isinglass 
to  half  a  pint  of  the  fruit ;  mix  it  well,  whip  up  a  pint  of  cream, 
and  add  the  fruit  and  isinglass  gradually  to  it ;  put  it  into  a 
mould ;  let  it  set  on  ice  or  in  any  cool  place,  and  when  ready, 
dip  the  mould  into  warm  water,  and  turn  out. 

White  Cream. — Put  into  a  basin  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  one  gill  of  pale  brandy,  and  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  melted 
isinglass,  or  calf’s  foot ;  stir  it  well,  and  add  a  pint  of  whipped 
cream.  Other  liquors  may  be  added,  in  which  case  put  in  less 
sugar.  Put  it  in  a  mould,  and  proceed  as  above. 

Curds  and  Cream. — Put  as  much  rennet  into  rich  sweet  milk 
as  will  set  it.  When  the  curd  is  formed,  take  it  up  carefully  with 
an  egg-spoon,  draining  off  the  Avhey ;  lay  it  in  a  deep  dish,  and 
surround  it  with  cream ;  eat  it  with  powdered  sugar.  This  Arca¬ 
dian  dish  must  be  made  with  judgment,  lest  the  curd  be  hard. 

Almond  Cream. — Blanch  a  pound  of  almonds,  pound  them 
fine,  and  mix  them  with  a  quart  of  cream  ;  sweeten  and  freeze  it. 
The  kernels  of  the  common  black  walnut  prepared  in  the  same 
way  make  an  excellent  cream. 

Ice  Cream. — One  quart  of  milk  or  cream  to  three  eggs.  Scald 
the  eggs  and  milk,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  If  you  use  cream,  scald 


PUDDINGS. 


195 

first  the  eggs  with  a  little  milk,  and  add  the  cream  afterwards. 
Sweeten  and  flavor  to  your  taste,  and  then  freeze. 

Ice  Cream  without  Eggs,  ( very  nice.) — One  quart  of  milk,  three 
spoonsful  of  corn  starch.  Let  the  mixture  boil  for  one  hour ; 
whip  one  quart  of  cream,  and  add  to  it ;  sweeten  and  flavor  to 
your  taste. 

The  color  of  this  ice-cream  is  not  as  rich  as  where  eggs  are  used, 
.but,  if  properly  frozen,  the  flavor  is  equally  good. 

Masser’s  patent  ice-cream  freezer  is  highly  recommended  to 
housekeepers,  as  by  its  use  much  time  and  labor  are  saved. 

Lemon  Cream. — Pare  the  yellow  rind  of  four  lemons ;  put  this 
rind  into  one  quart  of  fresh  cream,  and  boil  it ;  squeeze  and  drain 
the  juice  of  one  lemon,  saturate  it  completely  with  powdered 
sugar,  and  when  the  cream  is  quite  cold,  stir  it  in  ;  take  care 
that  it  does  not  curdle ;  if  not  sweet  enough,  add  more  sugar. 

Flummery. — To  one  cup  of  jelly,  one  cup  of  cream,  and  half 
a  cup  of  wine  ;  boil  fifteen  minutes  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  it  all 
the  time ;  sweeten  it,  and  add  a  spoonful  of  orange  or  rose-water ; 
cool  it  in  a  mould,  turn  it  into  a  dish  to  serve,  and  pour  around  it 
cream  flavored  with  any  thing  you  like. 

Cocoa-nut  for  Dessert. — Grate  a  cocoa-nut  very  nicely,  add 
powdered  sugar,  until  very  sweet ;  serve  with  cream. 

Charlotte  de  Eusse. — One  pint  of  milk,  the  beaten  yelks  of 
four  eggs,  and  half  a  pound  of  white  sugar.  Soften  one  ounce  of 
isinglass  in  cold  water ;  when  it  is  soft,  add  it  to  your  milk  and 
eggs,  letting  it  get  thoroughly  dissolved.  Put  the  whole  upon 
the  stove,  but  only  to  get  a  good  heating,  to  scald,  but  not  to 
boil. 

Have  one  quart  of  flavored  cream  whipped  to  a  froth,  and  stir 
it  into  the  previous  preparation,  when  that  has  begun  to  thicken. 


196  DINNER. 

Line  your  mould  with  pieces  of  cake  stuck  together  with  the  white 
of  an  egg. 

For  the  cake,  this  rule  is  very  good :  Two-thircls  of  a  cup  of 
butter,  half  a  cup  of  milk,  two  cups  of  sugar,  four  cups  of  flour, 
four  eggs,  one  teaspoon  of  cream-of-tartar,  half  a  teaspoon  of 
soda.  Bake  in  shallow  pans  or  plates,  as  for  jelly  cake. 

“  Ne’er  speak  ill  o’  them  wha’s  bread  ye  eat.” 

Spanish  Charlotte. — Place  crumbs  of  stale  cake  on  the  bottom 
of  your  pudding-dish,  pare  tart  apples,  or  any  other  acid  fruit,  and 
put  a  layer  over  your  cake  crumbs.  Continue  them  alternately  until 
the  dish  is  nearly  full,  making  the  cake  crumbs  form  the  top. 
Pour  a  custard  over  it  and  bake  it.  Serve  with  a  sauce  of  sweet¬ 
ened  cream,  or  butter  and  sugar  flavored  with  wine  or  brandy. 

Mother's  Custard. — One  quart  of  milk,  eight  eggs ;  sweeten  to 
taste,  then  strain  the  custard.  Flavor  with  vanilla,  lemon,  or 
rose-water.  Butter  the  cups,  and  after  pouring  the  custard  into 
them,  grate  nutmeg  over  them.  Set  the  cups  in  a  baking-tin, 
pour  boiling  water  into  it  to  the  depth  of  an  inch,  and  then  bake. 
They  bake  in  fifteen  minutes  if  the  oven  be  of  firm  heat.  Try 
them  by  inserting  the  smooth  handle  of  a  spoon,  which  comes  out 
clear  when  they  are  baked. 

Potato  Blanc-rnange. — To  one  cup  of  potato  meal,  take  eight 
cups  of  sweet  milk.  First  mix  the  meal  well  with  two  or  three 
spoonsful  of  the  cold  milk  ;  the  rest  of  the  milk  being  scalded,  stir 
it  into  it,  let  it  boil  a  short  time,  flavoring  to  your  taste ;  then  cool 
it.  If  the  juice  of  raspberries,  currants,  or  especially  cranberries, 
be  used  instead  of  milk,  a  jelly  is  formed  which  makes  an  elegant 
addition  to  the  table. 

A  Southern  Trifle. — Take  the  weight  of  four  eggs  in  pow¬ 
dered  sugar,  and  the  "weight  of  two  eggs  in  flour,  to  which  add  one 


JELLIES.  197 

teaspoonful  of  rose-water,  and  two  table-spoonsful  of  Madeira 
wine.  Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  until  they  froth,  and  the 
yelks  of  the  same  with  your  flour  and  sugar  until  quite  light. 
Then  mix  all  well  together,  put  it  into  an  earthen  dish,  and  in  seven 
or  eight  minutes  it  will  be  baked.  Have  your  baking-dish  well 
buttered. 

Lemon  Kisses. — Take  the  well-beaten  whites  of  four  eggs, 
_  stiffen  with  powdered  sugar,  and  flavor  with  lemon.  Drop  spoons¬ 
ful  of  the  mixture,  at  regular  distances,  on  a  well-buttered  white 
paper.  Set  the  paper  on  the  bottom  of  your  oven,  and  in  a  min¬ 
ute  they  are  done.  This  quantity  will  fill  a  cake  basket. 

A  Delicate  Dessert. — The  whites  of  six  eggs  well  beaten. 
Add  currant  jelly,  and  beat  it  until  well  colored.  To  be  eaten 
Avith  sweetened  cream. 

Here,  as  I  steal  along  the  sunny  wall, 

Where  autumn  basks,  with  fruit  empurpled  deep, 

My  pleasing  theme  continual  prompts  my  thought ; 

Presents  the  downy  peach,  the  shining  plum, 

The  ruddy,  fragrant  nectarine,  and  dark, 

Beneath  his  ample  leaf,  the  luscious  fig. 

The  vine,  too,  here  her  curling  tendrils  shoots, 

Hangs  out  her  clusters  glowing  to  the  south, 

And  scarcely  wishes  for  a  warmer  sky. 

Thomson. 


JELLIES. 

Apple  Jelly. — After  paring  and  coring  your  apples,  nearly 
cover  them  with  water,  and  stew  until  they  are  soft ;  then  mash 
them,  turn  the  whole  into  a  thick  strainer,  squeeze  out  the  juice, 
measure  it,  and  strain  it  through  another  cloth ;  to  every  pint  add 


DIKNER. 


198 

a  pound  of  white  sugar ;  stir  it  well  together  and  put  it  over  the 
fire  to  simmer,  or  boil  slowly ;  soak  a  small  pinch  of  saffron  in  a 
little  water,  and  strain  the  liquid  into  the  previous  mixture,  stir¬ 
ring  it  thoroughly  in,  that  it  may  give  a  handsome  straw  color  to 
your  jelly.  After  the  latter  has  boiled  slowly  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  during  which  time  you  remove  the  scum,  try  it  by  drop¬ 
ping  a  spoonful  of  it  into  a  cup  of  cold  water  ;  if  it  settles  on  the 
bottom,  it  is  a  token  that  it  is  sufficiently  cooked. 

Take  it  up  in  cups,  bowls,  or  glasses,  which  must  stand  in  a 
warm,  dry  place,  such  as  in  the  sun  or  a  moderate  oven,  until 
the  jelly  appears  to  harden  a  little ;  then  cut  paper  the  size  of  the 
top  of  the  jelly,  lay  it  down  upon  the  surface,  and  outside  of  these 
and  over  the  edge  of  the  cups,  paste  paper  tight,  in  order  to  ex¬ 
clude  the  air. 

Crab  Apple  Jelly  is  made  after  the  preceding  rule. 

Four  Fruit  Jelly. — Take  equal  parts  of  ripe  strawberries, 
currants,  raspberries,  and  red  cherries.  All  should  be  fully  ripe. 
The  cherries  must  be  stoned,  taking  care  to  save  the  juice  that  runs 
from  them  when  stoning.  Mix  the  fruit  together,  put  it  in  a  linen 
bag,  squeeze  it  then  into  an  earthen  vessel,  and  measure  the  juice. 
To  one  pint  of  the  juice,  add  one  pound  and  two  ounces  of  sugar. 
If  you  use  powdered  sugar,  you  must  take  a  pound  and  a  quarter, 
as  it  is  inferior  in  sweetness.  Mix  the  juice  and  sugar  together,  and 
boil  twenty  minutes  over  a  moderate  fire.  Take  it  up  in  small 
bowls  or  cups,  and  after  standing  twenty-four  hours  in  a  dry, 
warm  place,  paste  it  up  tightly  so  as  to  exclude  the  air. 

Grape  and  Cranberry  Jellies  are  made  in  the  same  manner 
as  currant. 

The  grape  is  a  native  of  Asia.  When  the  Israelites  sent  spies 
to  look  at  the  promised  land,  they  found  there  grapes,  and  brought 
away  with  them  a  cluster. 


JELLIES.  199 

The  pomegranate  was  the  favorite  device  of  Catharine  of  Ar- 
ragon.  This  fruit  is  so  called  from  “  pomme  ”  and  “  granate,” 
which  signifies  “  apple  of  Granada.”  Granada  was  conquered  by 
her  parents,  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 

Currant  Jelly. — Pick  the  currants  on  their  stems,  and,  if  they 
are  dusty,  wash  them  carefully,  and  lay  them  on  plates  to  drain 
over  night.  In  the  morning,  put  them  in  a  stone  jar,  and  set  the 
,  latter  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  over  the  fire.  Let  them 
boil  an  hour  or  more,  pour  them  then  into  a  thick  cloth  strainer 
(flannel  is  the  best),  and  squeeze  them.  Strain  the  juice  again 
through  another  cloth.  To  one  pint  of  this  juice  add  one  pound 
of  white  sugar.  Stir  the  sugar  to  dissolve  it  well  in  the  juice,  and 
then  boil  it  twenty  minutes ;  skim  it  clear,  and  pour  it  into  small 
bowls,  cups,  or  glasses.  It  thus  keeps  better  than  if  in  a  large 
quantity,  since  after  a  jar  is  opened,  the  jelly  soon  wastes  or 
spoils,  and  it  is  better  to  open  only  as  much  as  will  be  used  im¬ 
mediately.  When  the  jelly  is  well  formed  in  the  dishes,  which 
requires  at  least  twenty-four  hours,  lay  white  paper  cut  to  fit  the 
dish,  close  upon  the  surface ;  then  paste  paper  over  all  tight,  and 
label  the  cups.  Keep  them  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Sometimes  it  is  well  to  set  the  cups  of  jelly,  while  it  is  form¬ 
ing,  into  an  oven  moderately  warm,  leaving  the  door  of  the  oven 
open.  Either  this  mode,  or  setting  it  in  the  sun,  is  necessary. 

How  to  save  Currant  Juice  when,  from  bad  Management,  it 
will  not  form  into  a  Jelly. — Many  persons,  by  some  mismanage¬ 
ment,  cannot  bring  their  currant  juice  into  a  jelly.  It  is  a  per¬ 
fectly  simple  process,  and  common  care  and  attention  are  alone 
necessary  to  success.  But  since  mistakes  do  occur,  and  may,  even 
with  the  most  careful,  for  housekeepers  are  subject  to  many  in¬ 
terruptions  while  engaged  in  these  nice  matters  of  cooking,  it  is 
well  to  know  how  to  remedy  these  errors.  To  save  the  juice,  then, 


200  DINNER. 

add  to  it  red  raspberries  in  such  quantity  as  can  easily  cook  in 
the  juice.  Boil  them  together,  and  they  will  form  an  excellent 
preserve. 

Green  Currant  Jelly. — Jelly  can  he  made  of  green  currants 
in  the  same  manner  as  from  the  ripe  ones.  To  give  it  a  fine  color, 
stain  it  with  strawberry  juice ;  it  is  nice  of  its  own  color,  but  not 
equally  handsome.  This  jelly  is  said  to  be  delicious. 

Blade  Currant  Jelly  is  a  very  efficacious  remedy  in  cases  of 
sore  throat,  quinsy,  etc. 

Currants  are  so  called  from  Corinth,  near  which  city  they 
grow.  They  flourish  also  in  some  of  the  Ionian  islands,  and  upon 
the  shores  of  the  Peleponnesus.  They  grow  upon  a  vine,  and  re¬ 
semble  very  nearly  the  grape,  both  in  leaf,  form,  size,  and  manner 
of  growth.  The  name  is  corrupted  in  all  European  languages,  as 
well  as  our  own  ;  in  German  they  are  called  Corinthen ;  in  French 
Raisins  de  Corinthe. 

Calfs-Foot  Jelly. — Boil  four  calves-feet,  which  have  been 
previously  cleaned  nicely.  When  boiled  to  pieces,  strain  the 
liquor,  and  when  cold,  take  all  the  grease  off  from  it,  and  put  the 
jelly  into  your  preserving-pan  or  kettle,  taking  care  to  avoid  the 
dregs  ;  there  should  be  from  these  feet  about  two  quarts  of  jelly. 
Add  to  it  one  quart  of  white  wine,  the  juice  of  six  fresh  lemons, 
one  and  a  half  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  a  little  cinnamon  and 
mace,  and  the  rind  from  two  of  the  lemons.  Wash  eight  eggs 
very  clean,  whip  the  whites  to  a  froth,  and  add  them  with  the 
shells  to  the  jelly  to  purify  it ;  after  which,  set  the  kettle  over  the 
fire;  stir  it  occasionally  until  the  jelly  is  melted;  when  it  has 
boiled  till  it  looks  quite  clear  on  one  side,  and  the  dross  accumu¬ 
lates  on  the  other,  take  off  carefully  the  latter,  and  pour  the  jelly 
into  a  bag  ;  the  bag  should  be  made  of  cotton  or  linen,  and  sus- 


JELLIES.  201 

pended  in  a  frame  made  for  the  purpose ;  pour  the  jelly  back  until 
it  runs  through  quite  transparent ;  then  set  under  it  your  forms 
into  which  it  will  run,  and  do  not  stir  it  while  it  is  hardening. 
The  feet  of  hogs  make  a  very  pale  jelly;  those  of  sheep  make  it 
of  a  beautiful  amber  color. 

Chicken  Jelly ,  (for  invalids.) — This  jelly,  which  is  invaluable 
for  invalids,  can  be  prepared  best  after  the  following  manner ; 
it  will  then  retain  all  its  nutritious  qualities : — Take  a  chicken, 
fresh  killed,  and  after  it  is  washed  and  dressed,  crack  all  the 
bones ;  lay  it  then  in  a  stone  jar,  cover  it  with  a  paste  of  flour 
and  water,  forming  a  crust ;  set  the  jar  in  a  kettle  of  water,  and 
let  it  boil  four  hours  ;  take  it  off,  strain  the  liquid,  and  when  it 
cools,  remove  the  fat  from  the  top,  and  flavor  the  jelly  with  Ma¬ 
deira  wine. 

Dried  Apple  Jelly. — Take  a  quarter  of  a  peck  of  dried  apples, 
wash  them  well,  and  let  them  soak  over  night  in  about  two  quarts 
of  water  ;  boil  them  in  the  same  water  until  they  are  very  soft ; 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  you  take  them  up,  throw  in  two 
or  three  sticks  of  cinnamon  ;  strain  the  whole  through  a  flannel 
bag,  and  to  every  pint  of  juice,  take  one  and  a  half  pound  of  loaf 
sugar ;  boil  it  until  it  jellies,  which  you  ascertain  by  trying  a  lit¬ 
tle  in  cold  water ;  take  it  off,  and  when  nearly  cold,  put  in  ten 
drops  of  the  fresh  essence  of  lemon,  (or  fifteen,  if  you  are  particu¬ 
larly  fond  of  it,)  put  it  into  moulds,  and  set  it  away  to  cool,  if  in¬ 
tended  for  immediate  use ;  or  put  it  into  tumblers  or  cups,  and, 
when  hardened,  paste  over  it  thick  white  paper.  This  jelly  is 
nice,  and  has  baffled  the  sagacity  of  many  discriminating  persons 
to  ascertain  its  constituent  parts. 

Wine  Jelly. — Cut  up  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  and  let  it  soften  an 
hour  or  two  in  cold  water;  then  drain  off  the  water,  and  pour 
over  the  isinglass  one  quart  of  boiling  water;  when  this  has 


202  DINNER. 

dissolved,  strain  it  through  a  napkin,  and  sweeten  to  your 
taste ;  pour  it  into  a  small  brass  kettle,  and  set  it  on  the  stove 
to  boil,  carefully  skimming  with  a  silver  spoon.  After  it  has 
boiled  a  few  minutes,  take  it  off,  and  when  nearly  cold,  flavor 
with  one  gill  of  brown  sherry  wine,  and  pour  into  the  moulds. 

Another  Wine  Jelly. — One  ounce  of  isinglass,  one  quart  of 
water,  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten,  the  juice  of  one  and  a  half 
lemon,  the  peel  of  one  lemon,  table-spoon  of  cinnamon,  teaspoon 
of  mace,  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar.  Mix  them  all  together ;  boil 
five  minutes ;  add  half  a  pint  of  wine,  and  strain  through  a  flan¬ 
nel  hag  while  hot. 

Apple  Florentine ,  ( an  old  Christmas  dish.) — This  apple 
florentine  consisted  of  an  immensely  large  dish  of  pewter,  or  such 
like  metal,  filled  with  good  baking  apples,  sugar,  and  lemon,  to 
the  very  brim,  with  a  roll  of  rich  paste  as  a  covering — pie  fashion. 
When  baked,  and  before  serving  up,  the  “  upper  crust  ”  was  taken 
off  by  a  skilful  hand,  and  divided  into  sizeable  triangular  por¬ 
tions  or  shares,  to  be  again  returned  into  the  dish,  ranged  in 
formal  order  round,  by  way  of  garnish ;  when,  to  complete  the 
mess,  a  full  quart  of  well-spiced  ale  was  poured  in  quite  hot.  This 
dish  was  an  ancient  dainty,  much  used  in  Christmas  entertain¬ 
ments  fifty  years  ago,  and  of  which  all  of  the  guests  invariably 
partook — Wm.  Hone’s  Every  Bay  Book. 

It  was  an  old  practice  to  stick  apples  with  nuts,  and  to  send 
either  that  or  an  orange  stuck  with  cloves,  as  a  New  Year’s  gift. 
The  apple  is  pleasantly  associated  with  classic  stories.  It  was  a 
golden  apple  that  Paris  gave  to  Venus  when  the  rival  goddesses 
contended  upon  Mount  Ida  for  the  prize  of  Beauty. 

Macaroons. — Blanch  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  pound  them 
in  a  mortar,  with  rose-water ;  whip  the  whites  of  seven  eggs  to  a 
strong  froth,  and  add  to  them  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar ;  beat 


JEL1IES.  203 

it  some  time,  then  put  in  the  almonds ;  mix  them  well,  and  drop 
them  on  sheets  of  buttered  paper ;  sift  sugar  over,  and  bake 
quickly.  Be  careful  that  they  do  not  get  discolored. 

Cocoa-nut  Macaroons. — To  one  grated  cocoa-nut,  add  its  weight 
in  sugar,  and  the  white  of  one  egg  beaten  to  a  froth ;  stir  it  well, 
and  cook  it  a  little ;  then  wet  your  hands,  and  mould  it  into 
small  cakes,  laying  them  upon  buttered  paper,  as  above.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

In  France,  during  the  reign  of  Henry  III.,  it  was  the  fashion 
for  every  person  to  carry  about  with  him  a  comfit-box.  “  All  the 
world,  the  grave  and  the  gay,  carried  in  their  pockets  such  a 
box,  as  w'e  do  snuff-boxes ;  it  was  used  on  the  most  solemn 
occasions.  When  the  Duke  of  Guise  was  shot  at  Blois,  he  was 
found  with  his  comfit-box  in  his  hand.” 

“  I,  gentle  readers,  have  set  before  you  a  table  liberally  spread. 
It  is  not  expected  or  desired  that  every  dish  should  suit  the  palate 
of  all  the  guests ;  but  every  guest  will  find  something  that  he 
likes.  You,  madam,  may  prefer  the  boiled  chicken  with  stewed 
celery,  or  a  little  of  that  fricandeau ;  the  lady  opposite  will  send 
her  plate  for  some  pigeon-pie.  The  Doctor  has  an  eye  upon  the 
venison — and  so,  I  see,  has  the  Captain.  Sir,  I  have  not  forgot¬ 
ten  that  this  is  one  of  your  fast  days ;  I  am  glad,  therefore,  that 
the  turbot  proves  so  good, — and  that  dish  has  been  prepared  for 
you.  Sir  John,  there  is  garlic  in  the  fricassee.  The  Hungarian 
wine  has  a  bitterness  which  everybody  may  not  like ;  the  ladies 
will  probably  prefer  Malmsey.  The  Captain  sticks  to  his  Port, 
and  the  Doctor  to  his  Madeira.  There  is  a  splendid  trifle  for  the 
young  folks  which  some  of  the  elders  may  not  despise ;  and  I 
only  wish  my  garden  could  have  furnished  a  better  dessert, — but, 
considering  climate,  it  is  not  amiss.  Is  not  this  entertainment 
better  than  if  I  had  set  you  all  down  to  a  round  of  beef  and 
turnips  1  ” — Southey’s  Doctor. 


DINNER. 


204 


TABLE  HABITS  AND  PECULIAR  DISHES  OF 
VARIOUS  NATIONS. 

OLD  ENGLISH  LIVING. 

Come,  help  me  to  raise 
Loud  songs  to  the  praise 
Of  good  old  English  pleasures ; 

To  the  Christmas  cheer, 

And  the  foaming  beer, 

And  the  buttery’s  solid  treasures ; — 

To  the  stout  sirloin, 

And  the  rich  spiced  wine, 

And  the  boar’s  head  grimly  staring ; 

To  the  frumenty 
And  the  hot  mince  pie, 

Which  all  folks  were  for  sharing. 

To  the  holly  and  bay 
In  their  green  array, 

Spread  over  the  walls  and  dishes ; 

To  the  swinging  sup 
Of  the  wassail-cup, 

With  its  toasted  healths  and  wishes. 

Old  Christmas  Song . 

The  fuell’d  chimney  blazes  wide ; 

The  tankards  foam,  aud  the  strong  table  groans 
Beneath  the  smoking  sirloin,  stretch’d  immense 
From  side  to  side,  in  which,  with  desperate  knife, 

They  deep  incision  make,  and  talk  the  while 

Of  England’s  glory. - 

- or  amain 

Into  the  pasty  plunged ;  at  intervals — 

If  stomach  keen  can  intervals  allow — 

Relating  all  the  glories  of  the  chase. 

Thomson. 

The  tables  of  the  English  nobles  and  gentlemen  of  the  feudal 
days  Avere  spread  \vith  a  lavish  profusion  ;  and  abundance, 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  205 

rather  than  elegance,  presided  at  their  feasts.  Surrounded  by 
troops  of  retainers,  they  were  compelled  to  furnish  large  supplies 
for  daily,  ordinary  fare,  and  when  these  were  increased  on  occa¬ 
sions  of  importance,  the  prodigious  profusion  appears  to  us  most 
astonishing,  and  can  scarcely  be  credited  in  these  days  of  more 
moderate  living. 

At  one  marriage  feast  alone,  that  of  the  Earl  of  Cornwall, 
thirty  thousand  dishes  were  served  up  ;  and  at  the  marriage  of 
the  Princess  Margaret  to  Alexander  the  Third  of  Scotland,  sixty 
fat  oxen  made  only  one  article  of  provision  for  the  feast. 

“  They  served  up  salmon,  venison,  and  wild  boars, 

By  hundreds,  and  by  dozens,  and  by  scores. 

Hogsheads  of  honey,  kilderkins  of  mustard, 

Muttons,  and  fatted  beeves,  and  bacon  swine ; 

Herons  and  bitterns,  peacocks,  swan  and  bustard, 

Teal,  mallard,  pigeons,  widgeons,  and,  in  fine, 

Plum  puddings,  pancakes,  apple  pies,  and  custard. 

And  therewithal  they  drank  good  Gascon  wine, 

With  mead,  and  ale,  and  cider  of  our  own ; 

For  port,  punch,  and  negus  were  not  known.” 

In  the  kitchen  of  Eichard  I.,  three  hundred  persons  were  em¬ 
ployed,  and  the  queen  had  a  like  number  to  attend  upon  her  ser¬ 
vice.  During  a  famine  the  king  entertained  six  thousand  per¬ 
sons  daily.  He  valued  himself  on  surpassing  in  magnificence  all 
the  sovereigns  of  Europe,  and  lived  as  if  he  possessed  inexhausti¬ 
ble  treasures. 

Among  the  dishes  which  were  in  high  favor  at  an  early  period, 
appear  the  crane  and  the  peacock. 

It  is  told  of  William  the  Conqueror,  that,  when  his  prime 
favorite,  William  Fitz  Osborne,  who,  as  steward  of  the  household, 
had  charge  of  the  curey,  served  him  with  the  flesh  of  a  crane, 
scarcely  half  roasted,  the  king  was  so  highly  exasperated  that  he 
lifted  up  his  fist,  and  would  have  struck  him,  had  not  Eudo,  who 


DINNER. 


206 

was  appointed  steward  soon  after,  warded  off  the  blow.  Tame 
cranes  are  said  to  have  stood  before  the  table  at  dinner,  and 
kneeled  and  bowed  the  head  when  a  bishop  gave  the  benediction ! 
The  peacock,  in  particular,  was  considered,  during  the  days  of 
chivalry,  not  merely  as  an  exquisite  delicacy,  but  as  a  dish  of 
peculiar  solemnity.  After  being  roasted,  it  was  decorated  with 
its  plumage,  and  a  sponge,  dipped  in  lighted  spirits  of  wine,  was 
placed  in  its  bill.  When  it  was  introduced  on  days  of  grand  fes¬ 
tivals,  it  was  the  signal  for  the  adventurous  knights  to  take  upon 
them  vows  to  do  some  deed  of  chivalry  “  before  the  peacock  and 
the  ladies.”  The  receipt  for  dressing  the  peacock  “  enkakyll,”  as 
this  dish  was  called,  is  thus  given :  “  Take  and  flay  off  the  skin 
with  the  feathers,  tail,  and  the  neck  and  head  thereon ;  then  take 
the  skin  and  all  the  feathers  and  lay  it  on  the  table  abroad,  and 
strew  thereon  ground  cummin ;  then  take  the  peacock  and  roast 
him,  and  baste  him  with  raw  yelks  of  eggs ;  and  when  he  is 
roasted,  take  him  off  and  let  him  cool  awhile,  then  take  him  and 
sew  him  in  his  skin,  and  gild  his  comb,  and  so  serve  him  forth 
with  the  last  course.”  To  accompany  this  dish,  we  are  told  of 

“  The  carcasses 

Of  three  fat  wethers  bruised  for  gravy,  to 

Make  sauce  for  a  single  peacock.” 

Sometimes  the  peacock  was  made  into  a  pie,  at  one  end  of  which 
the  head  appeared  above  the  crust  in  all  its  plumage,  with  the 
beak  richly  gilt ;  at  the  other  end  the  tail  was  displayed. 

It  was  the  unbroken  custom  to  serve,  at  certain  seasons,  a 
particular  dish  first ;  as  a  boar's  head  at  Christmas,  a  goose  at 
Michaelmas,  a  gammon  of  bacon  or  a  red  herring  riding  aioay  on 
horseback  at  Easter.  This  last  was  a  herring  shaped  by  the  cook 
after  the  likeness  of  a  man  on  horseback,  set  in  a  corn  salad. 
The  custom  of  eating  the  gammon  of  bacon  at  Easter,  originated 
in  the  desire  to  show  an  abhorrence  of  Judaism  at  this  solemn 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  YAEIOUS  NATIONS.  207 

commemoration  of  our  Lord’s  resurrection.  Some  of  these  prac¬ 
tices  are  still  maintained  in  certain  parts  of  England ;  the  boar’s 
head  is  yet  brought  in  as  the  first  dish  at  the  Christmas  dinner 
at  Queen’s  College,  Oxford,  as  it  has  been  for  scores  of  years.  It 
is  borne  into  the  hall  to  the  principal  table  with  great  state  and 
solemnity,  the  bearer  singing  to  an  old  tune  the  following  carol : 

Caput  Apri  defero 
Reddens  laudes  Domino. 

The  bore’s  head  in  hand  bring  I, 

With  garlandes  gay  and  rosemary, 

I  pray  you  all  synge  merely, 

Qui  estis  in  convivio. 

The  bore’s  head,  I  uuderstande, 

Is  the  chief  servyce  in  this  lande ; 

Loke  wherever  it  be  fande, 

Servite  cum  Cantico. 

Be  gladde,  lords,  both  more  and  lasse, 

For  this  hath  ordayned  our  stewarde 
To  chere  you  all  this  Christmasse, 

The  bore’s  head  with  mustarde. 

The  head  was  set  upon  its  neck  on  the  platter,  with  an  apple 
or  lemon  in  its  mouth,  and  sprigs  of  rosemary  in  its  ears  and 
nose ;  the  platter  was  also  garnished  with  the  same,  and  with 
garlands. 

In  Scotland  the  boar’s  head  was  also  regarded  with  honor  ;  it 
was  sometimes  borne  to  the  table,  surrounded  by  little  banners, 
displaying  the  colors  and  achievements  of  the  baron  at  whose 
board  it  was  served.  The  Spaniards,  on  the  contrary,  viewed  it 
with  abhorrence ;  they  ate  the  boar’s  flesh,  but  believed  that  to 
eat  of  the  head  would  drive  men  mad,  therefore  they  always 
burned  it. 

Game  pies  were  in  great  favor,  as  also  herring  and  eel  pies. 
Ancient  receipts  for  making  these  pies  are  extant,  among  which 
we  select  the  following  as  curious  in  its  way,  and  because  it  has 
been  found  to  be  excellent  when  used  by  a  modern  cook : 


DINNER. 


208 

“  For  to  make  a  most  choice  paste  of  Gamys ,  to  be  eaten  at  the 
Feast  of  Christmas ,  (17^/t,  Richard  II.,  a.  d.  1394.)- — Take 
pheasant,  hare,  and  chicken,  or  capon,  of  each  one ;  with  two 
partridges,  two  pigeons,  and  two  coningies ;  and  smite  them  in 
pieces,  and  pick  clean  away  therefrom  all  the  bones  that  ye  may, 
and  therewith  do  them  into  a  shield,  or  case  of  good  paste  made 
craftily  into  the  likeness  of  a  bird’s  body,  with  the  livers  and 
hearts,  two  kidneys  of  sheep,  and  seasonings,  or  forced  meats  and 
eggs  made  into  balls.  Cast  thereto  powder  of  pepper,  salt,  spice, 
and  strong  vinegar,  or  catsup,  and  pickled  mushrooms  ;  and  then 
take  the  bones  and  let  them  seethe  in  a  pot,  to  make  a  good 
broth  for  it,  and  do  it  into  the  case  of  paste,  and  close  it  up  fast, 
and  bake  it  well,  and  so  serve  it  forth ;  with  the  head  of  one  of 
the  birds  stuck  at  the  one  end  of  the  case,  and  a  great  tail  at  the 
other  end,  and  divers  of  his  long  feathers  set  in  cunningly  all 
about  him.” 

Plum-pudding  and  roast  beef  are  proverbially  the  national 
dishes  of  England,  and  from  the  latter  the  Englishman  boasts 
that  he  derives  much  of  his  strength  and  power  of  endurance. 
The  mince-pie  has  always  been  a  favorite,  and,  as  well  as  the 
beef  and  plum-pudding,  has  had  its  praises  rehearsed  both  in 
prose  and  poetry- 

The  usual  fare  of  country  gentlemen,  in  Shakspeare’s  day, 
was  “  foure,  five,  or  six  dishes,  wdien  they  have  but  small  resort;” 
as  when  Justice  Shallow  invites  FalstafF  to  dinner,  he  issues  the 
following  orders :  “  Some  pigeons,  Davy ;  a  couple  of  short-legged 
hens ;  a  joint  of  mutton ;  and  any  pretty  little  tiny  kickshaws, 
tell  William,  cook.” 

But  on  feast  days,  the  profusion  and  cost  of  the  table  were 
astonishing.  Harrison  observes,  that  the  country  gentlemen  and 
merchants  “contemned  butcher’s  meat,  and  vied  with  the  no¬ 
bility  in  the  production  of  rare  and  delicate  viands.” 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATION'S.  209 

It  was  the  custom  in  the  houses  of  the  country  gentlemen  to 
retire  after  dinner,  which  generally  took  place  about  eleven  in  the 
morning,  to  the  garden-bower,  or  an  arbor  in  the  orchard,  in  order 
to  partake  of  the  banquet  or  dessert.  Thus  Shallow,  addressing 
Falstaff  after  dinner,  exclaims,  “Nay,  you  shall  see  mine  orchard, 
where  in  an  arbor  we  will  eat  a  last  year’s  pippin  of  my  own 
graffing,  with  a  dish  of  carraways,  and  so  forth.”  From  the  ban¬ 
quet  it  was  usual  to  retire  to  evening  prayer,  and  thence  to  sup¬ 
per,  between  five  and  six  o’clock ;  for  there  were  seldom  more 
than  two  meals, — dinner  and  supper ;  the  supper,  on  days  of  fes¬ 
tivity,  was  often  protracted  to  a  late  hour,  and  often  was  as  sub¬ 
stantial  as  the  dinner.  The  posset ,  at  bedtime,  was  universal,  to 
which  Shakspeare  frequently  alludes. 

The  carte ,  or  bill  of  fare,  was  introduced  about  this  period  at 
the  tables  of  the  nobility  ;  for  Harrison  tells  us,  that  “  the  clearke 
of  the  kitchen  useth,  (by  a  tricke  taken  up  of  late,)  to  give  in  a 
briefe  rehearsall  of  such  and  so  manie  dishes  as  are  to  come  in 
everie  course  throughout  the  whole  service  in  the  dinner  or 
supper ;  which  bill  some  doo  call  a  memoriall,  others  a  billet, 
but  some  a  fillet,  because  such  are  commonly  hanged  on  the 
file.” 

None,  we  are  told,  presumed  to  touch  the  most  dainty  dishes, 
until  they  had  first  been  offered  to  the  principal  personage  at  the 
table,  after  which,  in  due  course,  they  were  again  passed  down¬ 
ward,  and  were  free  to  all. 

Quite  an  idea  of  the  diuner  arrangements  in  a  nobleman’s 
family  in  the  17th  century,  may  be  obtained  from  the  orders  of 
Lord  Fairfax  to  his  servants : 

“  Dinner  must  be  ready  by  eleven  of  the  clock,  prayers  after 
tenne,  and  the  orders  observed,  as  is  before  said.” 

“  The  usher  must  attend  the  meat,  going  through  the  hall 
crying,  ‘by  your  leaves,  my  masters.’  Likewise,  he  must  warn 
for  the  second  course,  and  attend  it  as  aforesaid. 

14 


I 


210  DINNER. 

“  If  any  unworthy  fellow  do  unmannerly  set  himself  down  be¬ 
fore  his  betters,  he  must  take  him  up  and  place  him  lower. 

“  Let  the  best-fashioned  and  apparelled  servants  attend  above 
the  salte,  the  rest  below. 

If  one  servant  have  occasion  to  speak  to  another  about  ser¬ 
vice  att  the  tables,  let  him  whisper,  for  the  noyse  is  uncivil. 

“  If  any  servant  have  occasion  to  go  forth  of  the  chamber  for 
any  thing,  let  him  make  haste,  and  see  that  no  more  than  twoe 
be  absent.  And  for  prevention  of  errands,  let  all  sauces  be  ready 
at  the  door ;  for  even  one  messe  of  mustard  will  take  a  man’s  at¬ 
tendance  from  the  table ;  but  least  any  thing  happen  unexpected, 
let  the  boy  stand  within  the  chamber-door  for  errants.  And  see 
that  your  water  and  voider  be  ready  soe  soon  as  meate  is  served 
and  set  on  the  table  without.  Have  a  good  eye  to  the  board 
for  empty  dishes  and  placing  of  others,  and  let  not  the  board 
be  unfurnished. 

“  Let  no  man  fill  beere  or  wine,  but  the  cupboard  keeper,  who 
must  make  choice  of  his  glasses  or  cups  for  the  company,  and  not 
serve  them  hand  over  head.  He  must  also  know  which  be  for 
beere,  and  which  for  wine  ;  for  it  were  a  foul  thing  to  mix  them 
together. 

“  Once  againe  let  me  admonish  silence,  for  it  is  the  greatest 
part  of  civility.” 

We  are  much  indebted  to  the  “  Diary  of  Mr.  Pepys”  for  infor¬ 
mation  respecting  the  culinary  department  of  a  private  family  at 
this  period ;  and  as  his  minute  account  of  various  dinners  cannot 
fail  to  be  interesting  to  all  housekeepers,  Ave  shall  extract  some 
portions  of  the  same : 

“Jan.  2G,  1G59. — Home  from  my  office  to  my  lord’s  lodgings, 
Avliere  my  Avife  had  got  ready  a  very  fine  dinner,  viz. :  a  dish  of 
marrow  bones,  a  leg  of  mutton,  a  loin  of  veal,  a  dish  of  fowl,  three 
pullets,  and  a  dozen  of  larks  all  in  a  dish ;  a  great  tart,  a  neat’s 
tongue,  a  dish  of  anchovies,  a  dish  of  prawns,  and  cheese. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OP  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  211 

“  December  2. — Home  to  dinner,  where  my  wife  and  I  were  all 
alone  to  a  leg  of  mutton,  the  sauce  of  which  being  made  sweet,  I  was 
angry  at  it,  and  eat  none,  but  only  dined  on  the  marrow  bones.” 

The  next  year  he  obtained  an  office  under  government,  through 
the  patronage  of  his  cousin,  the  Earl  of  Sandwich,  and  says  he  is 
now  “  in  a  handsome  and  thriving  condition.” 

“February  25. — Went  to  Mr.  Symon’s,  who  was  abroad,  but  she, 
like  a  good  lady,  within  ;  and  there  we  did  eat  some  nettle  por¬ 
ridge,  which  was  made  on  purpose  for  some  of  their  coming,  and 
was  very  good.” 

June  5. — He  speaks  of  eating  botargo,  a  sausage  made  of 
eggs,  and  the  blood  of  a  sea  mullet,  with  bread  and  butter,  and 
drinking  great  quantities  of  claret. 

“December  1. — We  had  a  good  dinner;  cut  a  collar  of 
brawne,  which  proves  very  good,  and  also  opened  a  glass  of 
girkins,  which  are  rare  things.” 

In  1GC0,  he  is  invited  to  dinner  parties,  and  begins  to  give 
them  in  return. 

“January  G. — To  dinner  at  Sir  William  Penn’s,  it  being  a 
solemn  feast  day  with  him, — his  wedding  day ;  and  we  had,  be¬ 
side  a  good  chine  of  beef  and  other  good  cheer,  eighteen  mince 
pies  in  a  dish, — the  number  of  years  he  has  been  married. 

“  February  3. — Dined  with  Sir  William  Batten,  with  many 
friends  more,  it  being  his  wedding  day.  Among  other  frolics,  it 
being  their  third  year,  they  had  three  pyes,  whereof  the  middle¬ 
most  was  made  of  an  oval  form  in  an  oval  hole  within  the  other 
two,  which  made  much  mirth,  and  was  called  the  middle-piece. 
We  had  great  striving  to  steal  a  spoonful  out  of  it,  and  I  remember 
Mrs.  Mills,  the  minister’s  wife,  did  steal  one  for  me,  and  did  give 
it  me ;  and,  to  end  all,  one  lady  did  fill  the  pie  full  of  white  wine, 
at  least  a  pint  and  a  half,  and  did  drink  it  off1  for  a  health  to  Sir 
William  and  my  lady  ;  it  being  the  greatest  draught  that  ever  I 
did  see  a  woman  drink,  in  all  my  life.” 

« 


DINNER. 


212 

March.  26. — Having  guests  to  dine  with  them,  he  says,  “I 
had  a  pretty  dinner  for  them,  viz. :  a  brace  of  stewed  carps,  six 
roasted  chickens,  and  a  jowle  of  salmon  hot  for  the  first  course: 
a  tansy,  a  kind  of  sweet  dish  made  of  eggs,  cream,  etc.,  flavored 
with  the  juice  of  tansy ;  and  two  neats’  tongues  and  cheese,  the 
second.  We  had  a  man  cook  to  dress  dinner  to-day.  Merry  all 
the  afternoon,  talking,  singing,  and  piping  on  the  flageolet.” 

Visiting  Southampton,  he  dines  with  the  mayor,  who  gives 
him  sturgeon,  well  ordered,  and  also  caveare ;  hut  he  complains 
that  he  could  not  dress  it  to  his  taste,  for  they  had  “  neither  given 
it  salt  enough,  nor  were  the  seeds  of  the  roe  broke,  but  were  all 
in  berryes.” 

“  July  5. — Had  Sir  William  Penn,  who  I  hate  with  all  my 
heart,  for  his  base,  treacherous  tricks,  but  yet  I  think  it  not  policy 
to  declare  it  yet,  and  his  son,  and  two  others,  to  my  house  to  din¬ 
ner.  I  had  a  shoulder  of  venison  roasted,  another  baked,  and 
the  umbles  baked  in  a  pie ;  and  all  very  well  done.  We  were  as 
merry  as  I  could  be  in  that  company. 

“  December  18. — Mr.  Coventry  invited  himself  to  dinner, 
of  which  I  was  proud ;  but  my  dinner  being  a  leg  of  mutton  and 
two  capons,  they  were  not  done  enough,  which  vexed  me ;  but  I 
made  shift  to  please  him,  I  think,  but  when  he  was  gone,  was 
very  angry  with  my  wife  and  people. 

“January  6,  1662. — Bought  a  fine  table  for  my  dining-room 
that  cost  me  eighty  shillings.  My  poor  wife  rose  by  five  o’clock  in 
the  morning,  before  day,  and  went  to  market,  and  bought  fowles 
and  many  other  things  for  dinner,  with  which  I  was  highly 
pleased ;  and  the  chine  of  beef  was  down  also  before  six  o’clock, 
and  my  own  jacke,  of  which  I  was  doubtful,  do  carry  it  very  well, 
things  being  put  in  order,  and  the  cook  come.  By-and-by,  comes 
Dr.  Clerke  and  his  lady,  his  sister,  and  a  she-cozen,  and  Mr. 
Pierce  and  his  wife,  which  were  all  my  guests.  I  had  for  them, 
after  oysters  at  first  course,  a  hash  of  rabbits  and  lamb,  and  a 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  213 

rare  chine  of  beef.  Next,  a  great  dish  of  roasted  fowle,  (cost  me 
thirty  shillings,)  and  a  tart,  and  then  fruit  and  cheese.  My  din¬ 
ner  was  noble  and  enough.  I  had  my  house  mighty  clean  and 
neat ;  my  room  below  with  a  good  fire  in  it ;  my  dining-room  above  ; 
and  my  chamber,  being  made  a  withdrawing  chamber,  as  also 
my  wife’s,  in  which  was  a  good  fire.  I  find  my  new  table  very 
proper,  and  will  hold  nine  or  ten  people  well,  but  eight  with 
great  room.” 

'  April  4. — He  gave  another  dinner,  when  he  says,  that  he 
“  was  very  merry  before  and  after  dinner,  and  the  more  for  that 
my  dinner  was  great,  and  most  neatly  dressed  by  our  own  only 
mayde.  We  had  a  fricassee  of  rabbits  and  chickens,  a  leg  of  mut¬ 
ton  boiled,  three  carps  in  a  dish,  a  great  dish  of  a  side  of  lamb, 
a  dish  of  roasted  pigeons,  a  dish  of  four  lobsters,  three  tarts,  a 
lamprey  pie,  a  most  rare  pie,  a  dish  of  anchovies,  good  wine  of 
several  sorts,  and  all  things  mighty  noble,  and  to  my  great  content.” 

January,  1GGG. — He  buys  plate  for  his  table;  invites  Sir 
William  Penn  and  others,  and  his  vanity  is  gratified  by  “  seeing 
them  all  gaze  to  see  themselves  so  nobly  in  plate,  and  a  neat  din¬ 
ner  indeed,  in  plate,  but  of  seven  dishes.  ” 

In  April,  16G7,  he  says,  in  speaking  of  a  wedding  at  Sir 
William  Penn’s,  that  “  they  borrowed  many  things  of  my  kitchen 
for  dressing  their  dinner !  ”  which  he  pronounces  a  poor  one. 

Another  occasion,  Sir  William  invites  him  and  others  to  din¬ 
ner  ;  they  “  dined  upon  nothing  but  pigeon  pyes,  which  was  such 
a  thing  for  him  to  invite  all  the  company  to,  that  I  was  ashamed.” 

One  of  his  home  dinners  was  “  a  ham  of  French  bacon  boiled 
with  pigeons,  and  a  roasted  swan,  both  excellent  dishes.”  On 
another  occasion,  he  speaks  of  a  haunch  of  venison  powdered  and 
boiled,  and  a  powdered  leg  of  pork ;  also  a  fine  salmon-pie. 

In  1G68,  when  preparing  for  a  grand  dinner,  he  says,  “  Home, 
and  found  one  laying  of  my  napkins  against  to-morrow  in  figures 
of  all  sorts,  which  is  mighty  pretty,  and  it  seems  it  is  his  trade, 


214  DINNER. 

and  lie  gets  much  money  by  it,  and  do  now  and  then  furnish 
tables  with  plate  and  linen  for  a  feast  at  so  much,  which  is  mighty 
pretty,  and  a  trade  I  could  not  have  thought  of.” 

Of  his  grand  dinner  to  the  lords,  which  seems  to  have  given 
him  much  satisfaction,  he  gives  us  the  following  account:  “To 
the  office  till  noon,  when  word  was  brought  me  that  my  Lord 
Sandwich  was  come  ;  so  I  presently  rose,  and  there  I  found  my 
Lords  Sandwich,  Peterborough,  Lord  Godolphin,  and  others.  Af¬ 
ter  greeting  them,  and  some  time  spent  in  talk,  dinner  was  brought 
up,  one  dish  after  another,  but  a  dish  at  a  time,  but  all  so  good ; 
above  all  things,  the  variety  of  wines,  and  excellent  of  their  kind, 
I  had  for  them,  and  all  in  so  good  order,  that  they  were  mightily 
pleased,  and  myself  full  of  content  at  it;  and,  indeed,  it  was  of 
a  dinner,  about  six  or  eight  dishes,  as  noble  as  any  man  need  to 
have,  I  think — at  least,  all  was  done  in  the  noblest  manner  that 
ever  I  had  any,  and  I  have  rarely  seen  in  my  life  better  anywhere 
else,  even  at  court.  After  dinner,  my  lords  to  cards,  and  the 
rest  of  us,  sitting  about  them  and  talking,  and  looking  on  my 
books  and  pictures,  and  my  wife’s  drawings,  which  they  com¬ 
mended  mightily ;  and  mighty  merry  all  day  long,  with  exceeding- 
great  content,  and  so  till  seven  at  night,  wdien  they  took  leave. 

“  Thus  was  this  entertainment  over,  the  best  of  its  kind,  and 
the  fullest  of  honour  and  content  to  me,  that  ever  I  had  in  my 
life.” 

SCOTTISH  HOSPITALITY. 

The  Highlanders  of  Scotland  formerly  carried  their  hospital¬ 
ity  to  as  great  an  extent  as  the  ancient  Celtie.  It  Avas 
their  uniform  practice  to  leave  their  doors  open  during  the 
night,  as  well  as  the  day,  that  any  traveller  might  be  able  to  avail 
nimself  of  shelter  and  entertainment ;  and  it  is  still  remembered, 
that  in  later  times  the  laird  had  his  “  latter  meat  table,”  daily 
spread  for  all  who  chose  to  partake  of  his  liberality. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  215 

It  was  said  of  O’Neil,  that  guests  were  in  his  house  more  nu¬ 
merous  than  trees  in  the  forest. 

Dr.  Malloy  relates,  that  one  of  his  ancestors  entertained  nine 
hundred  and  sixty  men,  at  Christmas,  in  his  house  Croghill. 

Near  Clodach  Castle,  an  old  seat  of  the  MacSwineys,  a  stone 
was  set  up  by  the  highway,  on  which  was  an  inscription  inviting 
all  travellers  to  repair  to  the  house  of  Edmund  MacSwiney  for 
refreshment.  One  of  the  family  overturned  this,  perhaps  for  very 
’substantial  reasons,  but  it  was  well  remarked,  that  he  who  did  so, 
never  afterwards  prospered. 

At  the  burial  of  one  of  the  lords  of  the  isles,  nine  hundred 
cows  were  consumed. 

The  Forbes  of  Culloden  had  a  hogshead  on  tap  near  the  hall- 
door  for  the  use  of  all  comers,  and  it  is  said  there  “  was  as  much 
wine  spilt  there,  as  would  content  a  moderate  family.” 

That  such  profusion  was  sometimes  followed  by  a  correspond¬ 
ing  scarcity,  may  well  be  imagined ;  and  this  undoubtedly  gave 
rise  to  a  practice  which  existed  in  the  clan  Armstrong.  The 
chief’s  lady,  whenever  her  larder  needed  replenishing,  served  up 
on  a  huge  dish  before  the  hungry  company  of  retainers,  a  pair 
of  clean  spurs,  as  suggestive  of  their  duty. 

“  After  the  last  rites  at  the  funeral  of  a  Highland  chief  had 
been  performed,  one  hundred  black  cattle  and  two  hundred  sheep 
were  killed  for  the  entertainment  of  the  company.  The  feast  must 
necessarily  have  been  great  where  nearly  the  whole  clan  had  at¬ 
tended,  besides  the  neighboring  gentlemen,  attendance  being  often 
given  as  a  mark  of  respect.  The  dinners  were  often  in  the  church¬ 
yard.  In  England  they  were  sometimes  in  the  church  itself.” — 
!  Braude's  Ant. 

At  these  funeral  feasts,  the  nearest  of  kin  presided  at  the  cer¬ 
emonial,  and  etiquette  usually  obliged  even  the  widow  to  lead  the 
festivities,  however  painful  her  loss.  Mrs.  Murray  speaks  thus  of 
a  funeral  preparation  in  the  isles : 


DINNER. 


216 

“  The  deceased  had  been  a  respectable  laird,  but  not  very  rich, 
yet  there  were  six  cooks  for  a  week  at  the  house,  preparing  the 
feast,  towards  which  meat,  fowls,  fish,  and  game  of  all  sorts,  had 
been  sent  by  the  friends  and  relations.” 

The  rites  of  hospitality  were  practised  to  a  ruinous  extent  by  the 
poor  Highlanders,  who  would  keep  their  visitor  until  their  stock 
of  food  was  exhausted,  when  they  carried  him  to  the  house  of  a 
neighbor,  to  whose  care  he  was  then  resigned.  “  The  visitors 
never  depart  so  long  as  any  provision  doth  last ;  and  when  that 
is  done,  they  go  to  the  next,  and  so  from  one  to  one,  until  they 
make  a  round  from  neighbor  to  neighbor,  still  carrying  the  master 
of  the  former  family  with  them  to  the  next  house.”  The  generous 
islanders  carried  their  charity  to  such  an  imprudent  length,  that 
many  unprincipled  persons  frequented  the  Hebrides  for  the  pur¬ 
pose  of  profiting  by  their  bounty.  At  length,  it  became  necessary 
for  the  chiefs  to  enjoin  the  people  to  bestow  their  alms  on  natives,  or 
acknowledged  objects  of  charity.  The  Scottish  Parliament  passed 
several  acts  by  which  “  all  travelling  men,  on  horse  or  foot,  were 
ordered  to  lodge  in  hostellaries,  and  that  nane  other  receive  them.” 

At  Highland  entertainments,  the  chief  sat  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  table,  and  the  chieftains  and  principal  men  of  the  clan 
Avere  ranged  on  each  side,  in  order  of  precedence,  the  commons 
being  at  the  lower  end.  The  best  dishes  Avere,  of  course,  served 
to  those  Avho  occupied  the  honorable  end. 

On  one  occasion,  an  ancient  lord  of  the  MacDonalds  had,  by 
some  mistake,  been  prevented  from  taking  his  place  at  the  head 
of  the  table,  Avhich  occasioned  several  remarks  among  the  guests. 
On  being  told  what  engaged  their  attention,  he  exclaimed  aloud, 
“  Know,  gentlemen,  that  where  MacDonald  sits,  that  is  the  head 
of  the  table.” 

The  famous  Lord  Lovat  was  a  striking  example  of  a  genuine 
chief  of  the  old  school.  About  1725,  Avhen  he  Avas  actively  en¬ 
gaged  in  raising  his  company,  his  manners,  and  the  arrangement 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  217 

of  bis  household,  are  thus  described  by  one  who  volunteered  in  his 
service :  “  His  lordship  got  up  between  five  and  six  o’clock,  when 

both  doors  and  windows  were  thrown  open.  Numbers  of  the  vas¬ 
sals  were  about  the  house,  and  entertained  at  the  chief’s  expense. 
The  lairds  sat  towards  the  head  of  the  table,  aud  drank  claret 
with  their  host ;  next  to  these  were  seated  the  duinuassals  (gen¬ 
tlemen),  who  drank  whiskey  punch  ;  the  tenants  who  were  beneath 
these,  were  supplied  with  ale,  and  at  the  bottom,  and  even  out- 
'side,  a  multitude  of  the  clan  regaled  themselves  with  bread  and  an 
onion,  or  perhaps,  a  little  cheese  and  table  beer.  Lovat,  address¬ 
ing  the  second  class,  would  say,  ‘  Cousin,  I  told  the  servants  to 
hand  you  wine,  but  they  tell  me  ye  like  punch  best.’  To  others, 
‘  Gentlemen,  there  is  what  ye  please  at  your  service,  but  I  send 
you  ale ,  as  I  know  ye  prefer  it.’ 

“  It  required  good  management  to  make  a  limited  income 
sufficient  for  so  liberal  housekeeping,  and  some  attention  was  ne¬ 
cessary  to  preserve  the  motley  company  in  good  humor.” — Mem.  of 
Donald  McLeod. 

The  usual  diet  of  the  Highlanders  of  the  present  day,  is  milk, 
cheese,  cream,  butter,  oat  and  barley  cakes,  mutton  or  goat’s  flesh, 
with  potatoes.  They  have  also  a  meal  of  peas,  which  they  usually 
buy  unground,  and  use  with  milk  in  bread  and  puddings. 

Brose  is  common  in  Scotland.  It  is  sometimes  simply  oat¬ 
meal  and  hot  water  mixed  together,  to  which  butter  is  added ;  but 
the  oat-meal  is  commonly  stirred  in  the  water,  in  which  meat, 
cabbages,  and  turnips  have  been  boiled.  The  Highlanders  are 
such  a  hardy  race,  and  have  such  a  contempt  for  delicacies  in  eat¬ 
ing,  that  even  when  surrounded  with  plenty,  they  are  sparing  in 
their  diet.  It  is  a  fact  that  they  will  continue  at  laborious  field 
work  contenting  themselves  with  only  two  meals  of  water-brose. 

The  famous  Athole  brose  is  a  mixture  of  whiskey  and  honey 
with  a  little  oat-meal. 

Brochan  is  similar  to  oat-meal  gruel,  but  onions  are  frequently 


218 


DINNER. 


I 


added,  and  even  pounded  clieese.  “  Easoch,”  or  thin  brochan,  is 
eaten  with  bannocks,  and  was  the  sole  winter  diet  of  thousands  of 
Highlanders  in  time  of  scarcity. 

The  Black  Pudding  of  the  rustics  is  made  as  follows  :  several 
families  unite  in  buying  a  cow,  or  other  animal ;  after  it  is  killed, 
they  fill  the  entrails  with  a  kind  of  pudding-meat,  consisting  of 
blood,  suet,  groats,  etc.,  which  being  formed  into  little  sausage 
links,  are  boiled,  and  sent  about  as  presents.  These  are  called 
black  puddings  from  their  color.  These  puddings  were  popular 
in  ancient  Egypt ;  the  blood  of  animals  was  received  into  a  vase 
and  used  for  this  purpose. 

Singed  sheep’s  heads  was  an  ancient  homely  dish  of  Scotland, 
as  well  as  the  Haggis,  Tripe,  and  Black  Pudding,  which  four  are 
peculiarly  national  dishes.  The  Haggis  is  still  so  highly  valued 
on  this  account,  that  it  holds  a  prominent  place  at  all  national 
feasts,  whether  at  home  or  in  foreign  lands.  At  the  recent  Burns 
festivals  in  Hew  York  and  Boston,  this  dish,  prepared  and  sent 
out  from  Scotland  for  the  purpose,  was  tasted  of  by  all  the  guests, 
and  mentioned  with  honor. 

Burns’  poem  to  the  Haggis  has  immortalized  it,  and  being  one 
cause  of  its  distinguished  notice  at  the  present  day,  we  extract  a 
portion  of  it : 

To  a  Haggis. 

Fair  fa’  your  honest,  sonsie  face, 

Great  chieftain  o'  the  puddin-race  ! 

Aboon  them  a’  ye  tak  your  place. 

Painch,  tripe,  or  thirm ; 

Weel  are  ye  worthy  of  a  grace 

As  lang’s  my  arm. 

Is  there  that  o’er  his  French  ragout, 

Or  olio,  that  wad  staw  a  sow, 

Or  fricassee  wad  mak  her  spew 

Wi’  perfect  sconner, 

Looks  down  wi’  sneering,  scornful  view 
On  sic  a  dinner? 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OP  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  219 


Poof  devil !  see  him  owre  his  trash, 

As  feckless  as  a  withered  rash ; 

His  spindle  shank  a  quid  whip  lash, 

His  nieve  a  nit ;  * 

Thro’  bloody  flood  or  field  to  dash 
0  how  unfit ! 

But  mark  the  rustic,  liaggis-fed, 

The  trembling  earth  resounds  his  tread ; 
Clap  in  his  walie  nieve  a  blade 

He’ll  mak  it  whissle ; 
in’  legs,  an’  arms,  an’  heads  will  sned 
Like  taps  o’  thistle. 

Ye  powers,  wha  mak  mankind  your  care, 
And  dish  them  out  their  bill  of  fare, 

Auld  Scotland  wants  nae  skinking  ware 
That  jaups  in  laggies ; 
But  if  you  wish  her  gratefu’  prayer 
Gie  her  a  Haggis ! 

RECEIPT  FOR  A  HAGGIS. 

To  Mrs.  W- - . 

BT  MRS.  GRANT  OF  LAGGAN. 

Though  dull,  and  low,  as  vanquish’d  flag  is, 

I  have  not  yet  forgot  your  haggis. 

Could  I  but  forward  all  your  wishes 
For  speedy  voyage  and  Scottish  dishes, 

I’d  call  a  steady  gentle  breeze 
To  waft  you  o’er  the  summer  seas, 

And  send  the  swiftest  birds  of  air 
With  freights  of  Caledonian  fare 
Which,  though  ’twas  neither  rich  nor  rare, 
Would  find  a  kindly  welcome  there. 

The  pelican  would  not  be  lag, 

But  bring  a  haggis  in  her  bag ; 

The  sulky  hooded  crow  should  bring 
Black  pudding  on  his  sooty  wing; 

The  sea  mew,  mount  on  pinions  light, 

And  stock  your  board  with  puddings  white ; 


*  His  fist  a  nut. 


220  DINNER. 


The  swiftest  wild  goose  of  the  flock 
Should  bear  a  roasted  bubbly  jock ;  * 

The  eagle,  lofty  child  of  light, 

Should  upward  steer  his  steady  flight, 
Beyond  imperfect  human  sight, 

Then  on  your  deck  his  bounty  spread, 

Caller  nowts  feetf  and  sing’d  sheep’s  head ; 
The  gulls  that  skim  innumerous  by  you, 
With  fish  in  sauce  may  well  supply  you. 

But  why,  when  languid  grown  and  old, 

With  senses  dull,  and  fancy  cold, 

Should  I  thus  waste  my  worn  abilities, 

In  dreams  of  mere  impossibilities  ? 

The  plain,  prosaic,  short  receipt 
To  make  a  haggis  fit  to  eat, 

Is  better  than  poetic  sham 

Like  Schakkaba’s  pistachio  lamb : — 

John  Bull,  amidst  his  venison  haunches, 
May  shudder  at  the  sound  of  paunches, 

And  say  the  lofty-minded  Scot 
Feeds  like  a  sordid  Hottentot. 

But  mark  the  odds.  The  Scotch  gude-wife, 
With  cleansing  stream  and  scraping  knife, 

So  well  extirpates  all  impurity, 

E’en  John  might  feed  in  full  security. 

When  freed  from  every  earthly  soil, 

Your  whole  materials  slightly  boil; 

The  humblest  and  the  noblest  part 
Must  mingle;  add  the  lungs  and  heart , 
When  parboiled  spread  them  on  the  dresser ; 
With  knives,  the  greater  and  the  lesser, 

Be  sure  to  hack  and  hew  them  all, — 

They  never  can  be  minced  too  small. 

Of  Scottish  oatmeal,  fresh  and  sound, 

Add  something  less  than  half  a  pound ; 

Then  shred  two  Patagonian  onions, 

The  largest  in  the  state’s  dominions ; 

High  seasoning  here  is  thought  no  fault— 
Then  give  a  spoonful  large  of  salt; 

Of  pungent  pepper  rather  less ; 

In  all  things,  best  to  shun  excess. 


*  Bubbly  Jock — a  turkey  cock.  f  Caller  nowts  feet — fresh  cow  heels. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  221 

And  now,  though  rather  late  to  do  it, 

I  must  remind  you  of  the  suet : 

A  scanty  pound  may  do  for  all, 

And  pray  be  sure  to  mince  it  small 
With  oatmeal,  and  your  onions  shred, 

And  o’er  the  mingled  entrails  spread  : 

The  maw,  when  cleansed  with  scalding  water 
And  freed  from  each  offensive  matter, 

You  must  with  anxious  skill  prepare, 

And  fill  the  yawning  bag  with  care ; 

For  all  are  poured  in  this  receptacle 
To  furnish  forth  the  goodly  spectacle 
Of  portly  haggis,  first  in  place, 

“  Great  chieftain  of  the  pudding  race !  ” 

But  mind,  it  must  not,  like  your  skull, 

Be  cramm’d  of  precious  matter  full ; 

For  know,  when  filled  and  steaming  hot, 

It  feels  the  tempest  of  the  pot ; 

Proud  of  its  new  abode,  it  swells, 

’Gainst  the  imprisoning  bag  rebels, 

And  bursting  with  impatient  pride, 

Pours  all  its  treasures  from  its  side. 

Pray  then  this  caution  ponder  well, 

And  leave  a  space  for  room  to  swell. 

Then  bid  your  kind  gude-man  be  sure 
To  shape  and  scrape  a  wooden  skewer, 

And  carefully  adjust  that  pin 
To  keep  the  boiling  haggis  in ; 

Two  hours  slow  boiling  o’er  the  fire 
Will  make  it  all  that  you  desire. 

Then  on  the  board  your  haggis  place, 

And  bless  it  with  decorous  grace ; 

And  having  thus  attain’d  your  aim, 

Fall  to,  in  good  St.  Andrew’s  name. 

IEISn  CUSTOMS. 

Four  Kings  at  Dinner. — Sir  Ricliard  Cristeed  was  appointed 
by  Rickard  II.  to  introduce  Englisk  customs  into  Ireland,  and  ke 
tkus  describes  tke  manners  of  tke  four  kings  at  table : 

“  I  observed,  as  tkey  sat  at  table,  tkat  tkey  made  grimaces 
tkat  did  not  seem  to  me  graceful  or  becoming,  and  I  resolved,  in 


222 


DINNER. 


my  own  mind,  to  make  tliem  drop  that  custom.  When  they  were 
seated  at  table,  and  the  first  dish  served,  they  would  make  their 
minstrels  and  principal  servants  sit  beside  them,  and  eat  from 
their  plates  and  drink  from  their  cups.  They  told  me  this  was  a 
praiseworthy  custom  of  their  country  where  everything  was  in  com¬ 
mon,  but  the  bed.  I  permitted  this  to  be  done  for  three  days ; 
but  on  the  fourth,  I  ordered  the  tables  to  be  laid  and  covered  prop¬ 
erly,  placing  the  four  kings  at  an  upper  table,  the  minstrels  at 
another  below,  and  the  servants  lower  still.  They  looked  at  each 
other,  and  refused  to  eat,  saying  I  had  deprived  them  of  their  old 
custom,  in  which  they  had  been  brought  up.  Having  explained 
to  them  that  it  would  be  neither  decent  nor  honorable  to  continue 
it,  they  good-humoredly  gave  it  up.” 

Coshering  Feasts  of  the  Old  Irish. — “  Good  bundles  of  straw, 
or  in  summer,  green  rushes  were  laid  on  the  floor,  on  which  the 
guests  sat  down,  another  bundle  being  shaken  over  their  legs,  on 
which  were  placed  the  dishes  and  meat.  The  rhymers  sang,  and 
the  harpers  played,  whilst  the  company  regaled  upon  beef,  mutton, 
pork,  hens,  and  rabbits,  all  put  together  in  a  great  wooden  dish. 
They  had  also  oaten  cakes,  and  great  store  of  aqua  vitae,  without 
which  it  was  not  to  be  termed  a  feast.” — Barnaby  Riche. 


FRENCH  ENTERTAINMENT. 

Hospitality  was  a  virtue  which  the  Gauls  carried  to  the  extreme. 

“  Ariamnes,  a  wealthy  Galatian,  formed  a  resolution  of  enter¬ 
taining  all  his  countrymen  for  a  whole  year,  at  his  individual  ex¬ 
pense,  and  he  proceeded  in  this  manner.  He  divided  the  roads 
throughout  the  provinces  into  convenient  day’s  journeys,  and  with 
reeds,  poles,  and  willows,  erected  pavilions  capable  of  containing 
three  hundred  persons  or  upwards,  and  having  the  pre¬ 
ceding  year  employed  artificers  to  fabricate  caldrons,  he  placed 
them  in  these  buildings,  and  kept  them  continually  full  of  all  sorts 


1 -  -  -----  - 

TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  223 

of  flesh.  Every  day,  many  hulls,  swine,  sheep,  and  other  cattle, 
were  slain,  and  many  measures  of  corn,  and  much  barley  meal, 
ready  kneaded,  was  procured ;  and  all  this  was  not  confined  to  the 
inhabitants,  but  the  servants  were  instructed  to  constrain  all  stran¬ 
gers  to  partake  of  the  feast.  The  riches  of  the  Gauls  enabled 
them  to  indulge  in  very  extravagant  expenditure.  A  king  of  the 
Arverni  inclosed  a  space  of  twelve  furlongs,  in  which  he  had  con¬ 
structed  ponds  filled  with  costly  and  delicious  liquors.  Stores  of 
victuals,  ready  cooked,  were  also  provided,  sufficient  for  all  who 
chose  to  partake  of  them,  for  many  days.” — Athenceus. 

“  The  Gauls,  with  singular  delicacy,  never  asked  the  name  of 
a  stranger,  what  he  was,  or  his  business,  until  the  entertainment 
was  all  over. 

“  The  plenty  which  filled  the  land  was  evinced  by  their  well- 
supplied  tables  and  continued  feasting,  which  were  the  theme  of 
even  Roman  commendation.  The  Aquitani  were  famed  for  their 
sumptuous  and  frequent  entertainments,  and  the  Celtiberi  were 
noted  for  being  particularly  nice  and  curious  in  their  diet. 

“  Strabo  says,  most  of  the  Gauls  took  their  meals  sitting  on 
rush  beds  or  cushions.  When  a  company  could  agree,  they  sat 
down  to  supper  in  a  circle.  In  the  middle  sat  he  who  was  reck¬ 
oned  most  worthy,  either  from  his  rank  or  valor,  and  next  to  him 
was  placed  the  person  Avho  gave  the  entertainment.  The  others 
were  arranged,  each  according  to  his  rank.” 

Varro  states,  that  the  Gauls  sent  into  Italy  sausages,  hog’s 
puddings,  and  gammons  of  bacon,  and  that  their  bread,  which 
was  of  superior  quality,  was  supplied  to  the  Romans  for  the  pur¬ 
pose  of  yeast ;  they  also  made  excellent  cheese,  which  was  highly 
aromatic,  and  extolled  as  medicinal.  Pastry  is  first  mentioned  in 
Charlemagne’s  reign.  Thus  they  early  made  advances  in  the  arts 
of  cooking.  Luxury,  extravagance,  and  profusion  increased  in 
France  until  they  reached  their  height  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV. 
At  this  period  the  entertainments  were  most  sumptuous  and  magnifi- 


DINNER. 


224 

cent,  every  thing  being  obtained  which  could  charm  the  eye,  or  delight 
the  sense.  After  his  luxurious  reign  was  over,  a  change  gradually 
took  place  in  the  style  of  living.  Elegance  and  taste,  rather  than 
profusion,  became  fashionable,  and  have  reigned  ever  since  among 
the  French.  Their  skill  in  all  the  arts  of  the  cuisine  is  world- 
renowned,  it  being  universally  conceded  that  they  practise  them 
in  greater  perfection  than  any  other  people.  This  skill,  as  'well 
as  their  characteristic  love  of  novelties,  has  enabled  the  French 
to  add  many  new  articles  of  food  to  their  dietetic  regimen. 
Among  the  most  noticeable  of  these  additions  at  the  present  day, 
are  the  frog,  the  snail,  and  last — very  repulsive  to  English  taste — 
horse-flesh. 

The  first  of  these,  the  frog,  which  for  a  time  was  eaten  exclu¬ 
sively  by  the  French,  and  viewed  with  disgust  and  ridicule  by 
other  nations,  is  now  becoming  popular  in  other  countries ;  it  is 
eaten  to  a  considerable  extent  in  England,  America,  and  on  the 
continent.  A  recent  writer  says,  “  I  went  to  the  market  in  the  Fau¬ 
bourg  St.  Germain,  Paris,  and  inquired  for  frogs.  I  was  referred 
to  the  stately-looking  dame  at  a  fish-stall,  who  produced  a  box 
nearly  full  of  them.  The  price  fixed  was  a  penny  for  two,  and 
having  ordered  a  dish  to  be  prepared,  the  Dame  de  la  Halle  dived 
her  hand  in  among  them,  and  the  legs,  minus  skin,  still  struggling, 
were  soon  placed  on  a  dish.  These  Avere  afterwards  cooked  at  a 
restaurateur’s,  being  served  up  fried  in  bread-crumbs,  as  larks 
are  in  England ;  and  most  excellent  eating  they  Avere,  tasting 
more  like  the  delicate  flesh  of  the  rabbit  than  any  thing  else 
I  can  think  of.” 

Snails  have  noAv  become  a  very  fashionable  article  of  diet  in 
Paris.  The  usual  modes  of  preparing  them  for  the  table  are  either 
by  baking,  frying  them  in  butter,  or  sometimes  stuffing  them  Avith 
force-meat.  In  the  Isle  of  Bourbon,  they  are  made  into  a  soup 
for  the  sick,  by  the  French. 

There  are  now  fifty  restaurants  and  more  than  twelve  hundred 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS. 


225 


private  tables,  in  Paris,  where  snails  are  accepted  as  a  delicacy  by 
thousands  of  consumers.  The  monthly  consumption  is  estimated 
at  half  a  million.  The  proprietor  of  one  snailery,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Dijon,  is  said  to  clear  nearly  £300  a  year,  by  his  snails. 

In  the  provinces  of  France,  where  the  vine  is  cultivated,  snails 
of  large  size  abound.  They  are  gathered  by  the  peasants,  put  in 
small  pans  for  a  few  days,  and  salt  water  thrown  on  them,  to 
cause  them  to  discharge  whatever  their  stomachs  may  contain.' 
They  are  then  boiled,  taken  out  of  the  shell,  and  eaten  with  a 
sauce,  and  considered  a  luxury  by  the  vine-dressers.  But  in  what¬ 
ever  manner  they  are  dressed,  it  is  said  that  their  sliminess  al¬ 
ways,  in  a  great  measure,  remains. 

At  the  town  of  Ulm,  in  Wirtemberg,  snails  are  fed  in  great 
quantities,  for  various  markets  in  Germany  and  Austria,  but  es¬ 
pecially  for  that  of  Vienna,  wdiere  they  are  esteemed  a  great  del¬ 
icacy,  after  having  been  fed  upon  strawberries. 

The  breed  of  large  white  snails  is  considered  very  nutritious 
and  v'holesome  for  consumptive  patients,  considerable  quantities 
being  sold  in  Covent  Garden  market,  London,  for  this  purpose. 

Among  the  pictures  in  the  dressing-rooms  at  Chiswick  House, 
the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  there  is  one,  by  Murillo,  of  a 
beggar  boy  eating  a  snail  pie  ! 

In  Switzerland,  where  there  are  gardens  in  which  they  are 
fed  in  many  thousands  together,  a  considerable  trade  is  carried  on 
in  them  during  the  season  of  Lent ;  and  they  are  so  valued  at 
Vienna,  that  a  few  years  ago,  the  same  price  was  charged  at  an  inn 
for  seven  of  them,  as  for  a  plate  of  veal  or  beef. 

The  favor  with  which  the  introduction  of  snails,  as  an  article 
of  food,  has  been  received  on  the  continent,  proves  their  utility,  and 
also  the  influence  which  French  investigations  and  studies  re¬ 
specting  food,  exert  upon  the  neighboring  nations.  France,  in 
this  department,  takes  the  lead  as  much  as  she  does  in  the  world 
of  fashion  ;  and  although  we  may  not  now  view  some  of  the  dishes 
15 


DINNER. 


226 

which  she  originates  with  approbation,  we  cannot  ridicule  them 
when  we  see  that  they  afford  subsistence  and  nourishment  to  the 
hungry  multitudes  of  Europe.  A  French  gastronomer,  M.  Brillat 
Savarin,  says,  “that  the  discovery  of  a  new  meat  brings  more 
happiness  to  the  human  race  than  the  discovery  of  a  star ;  and 
truly,  viewed  in  this  regard,  the  French  may  be  considered  bene¬ 
factors  to  mankind. 

One  of  the  latest  gastronomic  innovations  at  Paris  is  the  use 
of  horse-flesh. 

“  Bancpiets  of  horse-flesh  are  at  present  the  rage  in  Paris,  Tou¬ 
louse,  and  Berlin.  M.  St.  Hilaire,  an  eminent  naturalist  and  pro¬ 
fessor  of  zoology,  has  written  a  treatise  upon  horse  for  food.  He 
contends  that,  while  animal  food  is  absolutely  necessary  to  the 
proper  nourishment  of  the  human  race,  millions  of  Frenchmen  eat 
no  animal  food,  and  every  year  millions  of  pounds  of  excellent 
meat  are  wasted. 

“  M.  St.  Hilaire  pronounces  this  meat  to  be  excellent,  and  cites 
the  evidence  of  eminent  men,  who,  having  eaten  it  knowing  loliat 
it  was,  declared  that  it  was  better  than  cow-beef,  and  some  aver¬ 
ring  that  there  was  little  difference  between  it  and  ox-beef.  Ex¬ 
periments  have  been  tried  under  three  different  conditions;  first, 
the  guests  have  known  what  they  were  going  to  eat  ;  secondly, 
they  have  been  totally  ignorant ;  and,  thirdly,  they  have  been 
warned  that  they  were  going  to  eat  something  quite  novel.  Yet, 
we  are  told,  the  result  has  been  the  same  in  every  case. 

“In  1841,  horse-flesh  was  adopted  as  an  article  of  food  at 
Oclisenhausen  and  Wurtemberg,  where  it  is  now  publicly  sold  un¬ 
der  the  surveillance  of  the  police.  At  the  lake  of  Constance,  a 
large  quantity  of  this  meat  is  also  sold.  In  1842,  a  banquet  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  persons  inaugurated  its  public  use,  at  Konigs- 
baden,  near  Stuttgard.  In  1846,  the  police  of  Baden  authorized 
its  public  sale,  and  the  year  following,  public  horse-flesh  banquets 
were  held  with  great  bclat  at  Detmold  and  Weimar. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  227 

“The  innovation  made  rapid  converts.  At  Vienna,  in  1853, 
there  was  a  riot  to  prevent  one  of  these  banquets,  but  in  1854,  such 
progress  had  been  made,  that  thirty-two  thousand  pounds  weight 
were  sold  in  fifteen  days,  and  at  least  ten  thousand  of  the  inhabi¬ 
tants  habitually  ate  horse-flesh.  And  now  Parisian  banquets  of 
horse-flesh  are  common ! 

“  The  delight  with  which  the  French  greet  every  thing  new  and 
eccentric,  appears  in  great  contrast  with  John  Bull,  who  is 
resolved  to  eat,  drink,  and  do  only  what  he  has  been  accustomed 
to.  He  wants  £  none  of  your  foreign  kickshaws,  frogs,  and  snails 
in  fricassees,  or  sea-slug,  or  bird’s-nest  soup,  or  horse-flesh  steak.’ 

“  It  is  almost  impossible  to  get  him  to  experiment  upon  a  new 
kind  of  food,  but  under  the  mysterious  manifestations  of  Gunter, 
Soyer,  and  other  distinguished  chefs  de  cuisine,  many  foreign 
articles  of  food  have  found  their  way  to  English  tables.” — Curi¬ 
osities  of  Food. 

A  satirical  writer  in  the  London  Magazine  thus  speaks  of 
French  cooks: — “It  has  long  been  the  reproach  of  the  French 
that  they  are  not  a  poetical  people.  But,  at  least,  their  cooks  are. 
Must  not  a  cook  be  inflamed  with  the  double  fires  of  the  kitchen 
and  poetry,  when  he  conceives  the  idea  of  fountains  of  love, 
( Putts  d' amour ,)  starry  anniseed,  (Anis  Ftoile,)  capons’  wings  in 
the  sun,  ( Ailes  de  poularde  au  Soleil,)  eggs  blushing  like  Au¬ 
rora  ;  ( CEufs  a  VAurore.)  I  consider  their  beef  in  scarlet,  ( Boeuf 
d  Fecarlate,)  their  sauce  in  half  mourning,  ( sauce  en  petite  deuil ,) 
and  their  white  virgin  beans,  ( Haricots  Viercjes ,)  as  examples  of 
the  same  warm  and  culinary  fancy. 

“  Their  ingenuity  is  sometimes  shown  in  the  invention  of  new 
dishes,  as  well  as  in  the  epithets  they  attach  to  them, — another 
poetical  symptom.  Thus,  we  have  a  dish  of  breeches  in  the  royal 
fashion,  with  velvet  sauce,  ( Culotte  a,  la  Royale ,  sauce  veloute,) 
— tendons  of  veal  in  a  peacock’s  tail,  ( Tendons  de  veau  en  queue 
de  paon,) — and  a  shoulder  of  mutton  in  a  balloon  or  a  bag-pipe ! 


228  DINNER. 

(Epaule  de  monton  en  ballon ,  en  musette.)  Sometimes  their 
names  are  so  fanciful  as  to  be  totally  incomprehensible,  especially 
if  you  look  for  them  in  a  dictionary ;  such  as — a  palace  of  beef 
in  Cracovia,  ( Palais  de  boeuf  en  Cracovie ,) — strawberries  of  veal, 
Praises  de  veau,) — the  amorous  smiles  of  a  calf,  ( Bis  de  veau  en 
amourette ,) — a  fleet  with  tomato  sauce,  ( Floite ,  sauce  Tomate,) — 
and  eggs  in  a  looking-glass,  ( (Eufs  au  miroir.) 

“  But  there  are  many  of  their  dishes  which  are  monstrous,  and 
show  a  strong  tendency  to  cannibalism.  Great  and  little  asps, 
(  Grand  et petit  aspie,) — fowls  done  like  lizards,  ( Poulet  en  lezard,) 
— hares  like  serpents,  (Lievre  en  serpent ,) — and  pigeons  like  toads 
or  basilisks,  ( Pigeon  a  la  Crapaudine ,  en  basilic,) — are  all  fa¬ 
vorite  dishes  ;  as  are  also  a  hash  of  huntsmen,  ( Salmi  de  chasseurs,) 
— a  stew  of  good  Christians,  ( Compote  de  bons  Chretiens ,) — a 
mouthful  of  ladies,  ( Bouchee  de  Fames,) — thin  Spanish  women, 
Fspagnoles  maigres,) — and  four  beggars  on  a  plate,  ( Quartre 
mendians .) 

“  They  like  liver  of  veal  ( Veau  d  V  etoufflade,)  and  pullets  like 
ivory,  ( Poulets  d  Vivoire .)  Other  dishes  are,  on  the  contrary, 
quite  shadowry  and  unsubstantial ;  such  as  an  embrace  of  a  hare 
on  the  spit,  ( Accolade  de  lievre  d  la  Broclie,) — partridges  shoe- 
soles,  ( Semelles  de  Perdrix,) — the  breath  of  a  rose,  (Souffle  de  rose,) 
— a  whole  jonquil,  (  Une  Jonquille  entiere.) 

“  The  French  have  a  vTay  of  serving  up  their  dishes,  which  is 
as  extraordinary  as  the  rest.  What  should  we  think  of  whitings 
in  turbans,  (Merlansen  turban,) — smelts  in  dice  boxes,  (Eperlans 
en  cornets,) — a  skate  buckled  to  capons,  (Pate  bouclee  aux  capres,) 
— gooseberries  in  their  shifts,  and  potatoes  in  their  shirts, 
(  Groseilles  et  pommes  de  terre  en  chemise.) 

“  Should  we  not  think  any  cook  very  filthy  who  should  send  up 
cutlets  in  hair-papers,  (Cotellettes  en  papillotes,) — truffles  in 
ashes,  (Truffles  a  la  cendre,) — and  squirted  seed-cakes,  (Masse- 
gams  seringues.) 


ABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  229 

“  The  military  dispositions  of  the  French  are  discoverable  even 
in  their  cookery.  They  have  large  and  small  bullets,  (Gros  et 
petits  boulets, — carbonades  innumerable,  ( carbonades  de  mouton , 
etc.,) — syrup  of  grenades,  (Strop  de  grenades ,)  and  quails  in 
laurels,  (Cailles  aux  lauriers.) 

“The  French  boast  that  their  language  is  the  clearest  in  the 
world.  I  should  like  to  know  what  they  mean  by  a  skate  fried 
raw !  (Rate  frite  d  cru,)  or  big  little  peaches,  (Peekes  grosses- 
inignonnes.”) 

TABLE  HABITS  OF  THE  GERMANS. 

We  are  indebted  to  C.  L.  Brace’s  “  Home  Life  in  Germany,” 
published  in  1853,  for  the  following  interesting  account  of  the 
German  meals  among  the  middle  classes  of  society  : 

“  The  breakfast  is  always  merely  a  cup  of  coffee  and  bread 
cakes,  partaken  of  at  an  early  hour.  After  this  slight  meal,  the 
gentlemen  go  to  their  business,  and  the  ladies  to  their  household 
work, — and  I  have  been  surprised  to  observe  in  the  various  fam¬ 
ilies  of  my  acquaintance,  how  much  the  ladies  do  of  housekeeping 
work,  and  even  of  cooking. 

“At  eleven  or  twelve,  those  of  the  family  who  are  at  home, 
meet  again  for  ‘  lunch.’  This  is  a  moderately  substantial  meal 
of  cold  meat,  bread  and  butter,  preserves  and  fruit,  with  some 
light  wine  like  Burgundy  or  claret. 

“  Then  at  three  o’clock  comes  the  dinner,  the  great  meal  of  the 
day,  of  course.  With  many  of  the  business  men,  the  same  custom 
prevails  as  in  our  large  cities  and  in  England,  of  having  the  din¬ 
ner  at  five  or  six  o’clock,  after  the  business  of  the  day.  But  three 
or  four  o’clock  is  the  more  general  hour.  The  meal  commences, 
according  to  the  world-wide  custom,  with  soup ;  then  succeed 
roast  meat  and  vegetables,  and  then,  perhaps,  fish  and  various 
courses,  to  the  number  often  of  five  or  six,  each  course,  however, 
being  only  a  small  dish, — and  the  remarkable  thing  about  it  all 


DINNER. 


230 

being,  that  the  fruits  come  in,  in  the  middle  of  the  courses,  and 
the  roast  meats  just  before  the  end.  The  dessert,  according  to 
an  English  custom,  and  one  which  does  not  prevail  in  America, 
is  bread  with  butter,  or  cheese.  The  wines  do  not  seem  to  be  as 
varied  as  in  family  dinners  in  England,  being  generally  the  light 
red  wine,  either  of  France  or  the  Ehine,  together  with  Teneriffe. 
The  last  dish  is  always  a  cup  of  strong  black  coffee.  Of  course, 
this  arrangement  of  dinner  differs  somewhat  in  different  families, 
and  perhaps  the  order  of  courses  is  not  strictly  fixed ;  yet  such 
may  be  considered  a  fair  sample  of  a  good  family  dinner  in 
Hamburg. 

“  In  some  families  we  used  to  meet  again  at  six  for  tea  handed 
round  without  eatables, — a  custom  probably  derived  from  the 
English.  The  evening  follows,  and  is  spent  either  over  whist  or 
in  pleasant  conversation,  or  at  concerts ;  and,  again,  at  nine  or 
ten  o’clock  is  a  hearty  cold  supper,  with  meats  and  fruit  and  wine, 
finished  on  the  gentlemen’s  part  by  cigars,  which  are  smoked  here 
apparently  as  freely  in  the  parlor  or  dining-room  as  anywhere 
else.” 

A  dinner  in  Berlin  he  describes  as  follows : 

“  The  dinner  in  Berlin  is  usually  at  one  o’clock,  except  when 
company  is  invited,  when  it  is  delayed  to  three  or  four  o’clock, 
after  the  business  hours  are  over.  Our  dining-room  here  was  a 
high,  bare  room,  with  walls  and  ceilings  painted  in  pretty  pat¬ 
terns,  a  tall  white  porcelain  stove  in  one  corner,  and  a  sofa,  to¬ 
gether  with  a  few  plain  articles  by  way  of  furniture.  There  was 
no  carpet  on  the  floor,  and  the  room  had,  in  general,  a  naked  as¬ 
pect.  It  was  used  mostly  as  a  dancing-room. 

“  The  table  was  very  prettily  set  out ;  the  dessert-fruit  and 
flowers  being  in  the  centre,  and  a  handsome  show  of  Dresden 
China,  and  of  graceful  dishes  surrounding  them.  One  of  the 
young  ladies  commenced  at  once  by  helping  the  soup,  which  was 
passed  by  the  servant. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OP  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  231 

“  After  the  soup,  came  the  boiled  beef,  cut  up  into  small  pieces, 
and  handed  by  the  servant  to  each  person.  This  is  eaten  without 
vegetables.  This  was  succeeded  by  small  bits  of  a  roast  chicken 
passed  again  to  each,  and  eaten  with  pickles  and  preserves.  The 
Bordeaux  red  wine  was  now  passed,  our  host  pouring  first  a  few 
drops  in  his  own  glass,  and  then  helping  his  right-hand  guest. 
When  he  pours  the  last  glass,  it  is  the  custom  for  him  to  empty 
the  last  drops  also  into  his  own  glass.  This  wine  is  not  stronger 
than  claret,  which  it  very  much  resembles.  No  lady  in  the  com¬ 
pany  took  wine.  I  observed  that  both  gentlemen  and  ladies  used 
finger  and  teeth  on  the  chicken,  in  primitive  fashion — a  common 
habit  of  ordinary  life  in  Germany. 

“  Our  middle  course  was  a  pudding  and  sauce,  after  which  came 
the  great  dish  of  roast-beef,  the  only  meat  carved  by  the  host  at 
the  table,  eaten  with  various  vegetables. 

“‘Is  this  quite  different  from  your  home  dinners'?’  said  the 
lady  at  my  side,  in  English. 

“  ‘  Oh,  yes I  replied,  and  described  our  American  meals. 

“‘So !  pudding  last !  how  droll !  But  which  think  you  the 
most  healthy  ?  ’ 

“I  thought  the  German  diet,  especially  as  her  countrymen 
did  not  eat  so  much  pastry,  as  we  Americans ;  and  despite  the 
long  meals,  were  not  so  hearty  eaters. 

“  ‘  Ach  !  here  comes  the  dish  of  dishes ! — the — pardon  !  how 
call  you  it?  ’ 

“  ‘  Salad !  ’  and  each  one  set  to  work  preparing  his  mixture,  as 
for  the  especial  dish  of  the  day.  Through  the  courses  all  ate  very 
slowly,  and  conversation  continued  in  the  liveliest  manner. 

“  Our  last  course  was  black  unbolted  rye  bread  and  butter,  with 
a  little  fruit  and  confectionery,  and  after  some  further  chatting, 
the  whole  company  went  to  the  drawing-room  for  the  coffee,  and 
the  gentlemen  to  smoke. 

“  ‘  How  much  more  pleasant  is  this,’  said  my  companion  as  wre 


DINNER. 


i 


i 


I 


232 

went  out,  ‘  as  your  English  way  to  leave  the  gentlemen  to  drink 
and  talk  without  ladies,  as  if  you  were  ashamed.’ 

“  ‘  I  think  so,  too ;  ’  I  replied,  ‘  we  seldom  do  that  in  Amer¬ 
ica.  But  how  can  you  housekeepers  hear  this  smoking  in  your 
parlors  ?  I  should  think  you  would  he  obliged  to  smoke  your¬ 
selves  for  defence.’ 

‘“No?  Why  should  we  oppose  it?  Is  it  not  better  for  them 
to  he  in  habit  to  smoke  with  us,  than  without  us  ?  Beside,  it 
never  troubles  me.  I  like  it  now.  But  do  not  think  we  smoke. 
No  respectable  lady  smokes.’ 

“  ‘I  see  Fraulein  N —  is  making  the  coffee,’  said  I.  ‘  Do  you 
never  leave  it  to  servants  ?  ’ 

“‘Oh,  no,’  she  replied,  ‘it  would  never  be  so  good.  We  al¬ 
ways  make  it  fresh  on  the  table,  for  it  must  not  long  kocken — 
what  is  the  word, — boil.  It  only  drops  very  slowly  through  a — 
a — crossing  of — ’ 

“  ‘  Sieve,’  I  suggested. 

“‘Ja!  a  sieve  and  paper  very  thin.  Here  is  your  coffee. 
You  must  put  no  cream  in  it,  but  sugar  much.’ 

“  After  our  coffee,  came  various  merry-makings  till  evening. 
Other  friends  called  with  presents  and  mementos  to  the  Frau 
Mutter ,  (this  party  were  gathered  to  celebrate  the  silver  ivedding 
of  the  parents,)  good  wishes  were  said,  and  pleasant  speeches 
made,  and  at  length,  after  a  hearty  supper  at  ten  o’clock  on 
broiled  sturgeon  and  Bavarian  beer,  the  company  broke  up  with 
abundance  of  Adieus  and  Fmpfehle  michs ,  and  good  byes  for  me.” 


I 


Old  German  Hospitality . — “In  deeds  of  hospitality  and  social 
feasts,  no  nation  on  earth  was  ever  more  liberal  than  the  Ger¬ 
mans,  The  manner  in  which  they  received  their  guests  was 
familiar  and  kind.  Every  one  that  came  to  a  house  was  treated 
with  lodging  and  repasts,  as  long  and  liberally,  as  the  owner  could 
afford ; '  and  when  his  whole  stock  was  consumed,  he  took  his 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS  233 

guests  to  a  new  scene  of  hospitality,  both  proceeding  to  the  next 
house,  to  which  the  formality  of  an  invitation  was  unnecessary, 
and  where  they  were  received,  with  the  same  frankness  and  joy. 
Upon  the  departure  of  a  guest,  if  he  asked  for  any  thing,  it  was 
cheerfully  given  him.” — Logan’s  Antiquities. 

In  the  famous  “  Lay  of  the  Niebelungen,”  there  is  represented 
a  feast  which  lasted,  twelve  days  and  nights,  at  which  five  thousand 
guests,  and  thirty-two  princes  of  the  royal  blood,  were  present. 

SPANISH  HOSPITALITY  OF  THE  PRESENT  DAY. 

“  I  have  spoken  of  the  rarity  of  invitations  to  dinner,  of  which 
some  travellers  complain  so  bitterly.  It  is  not  the  custom  of  the 
country  to  feed,  the  hungry  after  that  fashion  ;  and  whether  it  be 
a  fault  or  a  virtue,  Madrid,  in  particular,  is  like  the  rest  of  the 
kingdom.  Prodigal  abundance  forms  no  part  of  Spanish  social 
economy.  The  tertulias ,  or  evening  receptions,  which  are  so  nat¬ 
ural,  so  pleasant,  and  so  free,  that  no  one  can  enjoy  them  long 
without  regarding  them  as  one  of  the  most  charming  fashions  of 
social  intercourse,  are  altogether  without  gastronomic  embellish¬ 
ments.  A  little  orchata ,  lemonade  and  cake,  with  perhaps  a  cup 
of  tea,  where  foreign  habits  have  been  acquired,  are  all  that  a 
large  company  will  desire,  to  help  them,  with  music  and  conver¬ 
sation,  through  a  long  and  agreeable  evening.  If  cards  are  in¬ 
troduced,  as  they  frequently  are,  it  is  not  often  that  the  game 
gets  the  better  of  prudence.  The  stomach  is  not  considered  in 
Spain,  the  seat  of  the  social  affections.  If  you  are  recommended 
to  a  family,  the  head  of  it  calls  on  you  at  once  without  regard  to 
formality  or  visiting  hours.  Instead  of  giving  you  to  eat,  which, 
as  you  are  travelling  on  your  own  means,  he  naturally  supposes 
you  do  not  need,  he  gives  you  his  company,  his  personal  attention 
and  guidance,  which  he  knows  are  of  more  importance  to  you, 
and  which  you  cannot  buy.” — S.  T.  Wallis,  Glimpses  in  Spain. 


234  DINNER. 

The  Olla  Podrida  of  the  Spaniards. — “  The  veritable  olla  is 
difficult  to  be  made  ;  a  tolerable  one  is  never  to  be  eaten  out  of 
Spain,  since  it  requires  many  Spanish  things  to  concoct  it  and 
with  care  ;  the  cook  must  throw  his  whole  soul  into  the  pan,  or 
rather  pot ;  it  may  be  made  in  one,  but  two  are  better.  These 
must  be  of  earthenware ;  put  them  on  their  separate  stoves  with 
water.  Place  into  No.  1,  Garbanzos,  (chickpeas,)  which  have  been 
soaked  over-night;  adcl  a  good  piece  of  beef,  a  chicken,  a  large 
piece  of  bacon  ;  let  it  boil  once  and  quickly ;  then  let  it  simmer  ; 
it  requires  four  or  five  hours  to  be  well  done.  Meanwhile,  place 
in  No.  2,  with  water,  whatever  vegetables  are  to  be  had  ;  lettuce, 
cabbage,  a  slice  of  gourd,  of  beef,  carrots,  beans,  celery,  endive, 
onions  and  garlic,  long  peppers.  These  must  be  previously  well 
washed  and  cut,  as  if  for  a  salad;  then  add  red  sausages,  or 
“  chorizos half  a  salted  pig’s  face,  which  should  have  been 
soaked  over-night.  When  all  is  sufficiently  boiled,  strain  off  the 
water  and  throw  it  away.  Remember  constantly  to  remove  the 
scum  of  both  sauce-pans.  When  all  this  is  sufficiently  dressed, 
take  a  large  dish,  lay  in  the  bottom  the  vegetables,  the  beef  in 
the  centre,  flanked  by  the  bacon,  chicken,  and  pig’s  face.  The 
sausages  should  be  arranged  around  en  couronne  ;  pour  over  some 
of  the  soup  from  No.  1,  and  serve  hot. 

“  This  is  the  olla  en  grande ,  such  as  Don  Quixote  says  was 
eaten  only  by  canons  and  presidents  of  colleges  ;  like  turtle-soup, 
it  is  so  rich  and  satisfactory,  that  it  is  a  dinner  of  itself.  A 
worthy  dignitary  of  Seville,  in  the  good  old  times,  told  us  that  on 
feast  days  he  used  turkeys  instead  of  chickens,  and  added  two 
sharp  Ronda  apples,  and  three  sweet  potatoes  of  Malaga.  In 
fact,  any  thing  that  is  good  in  itself,  is  good  for  an  olla ,  provided, 
as  old  Spanish  books  always  conclude,  that  it  contains  nothing 
‘  contrary  to  the  holy  mother  church,  to  orthodoxy,  and  to  good 
manners.’ 

“  The  word  olla  means  at  once  a  species  of  prepared  food,  and 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  .NATIONS.  2 cb 

the  earthenware  utensil  in  which  it  is  dressed,  just  as  our  term 
dish  is  applicable  to  the  platter,  and  to  what  is  served  on  it.  It 
is  only  well  made  in  Andalusia,  and  there  alone  in  careful,  well- 
appointed  houses  ;  it  is  called  puchero  in  the  rest  of  Spain,  Avhere 
it  is  but  a  poor  affair,  made  of  dry  beef,  boiled  with  garhanzos  or 
chick  peas,  and  a  few  sausages. 

“  Bacon  is  much  honored  in  Spain,  and  with  good  reason,  for  it 
has  always  been,  and  is,  unequalled  in  flavor.  The  hams  of  Gal- 
Ticia  and  Catalonia  are  celebrated  for  their  excellence  ;  the  sweet 
hams  of  the  Alpujarras,  a  hamlet  among  the  snowy  mountains  of 
Granada,  are  delicious ;  they  are  so  called  because  scarcely  any 
salt  is  used  in  the  curing;  the  ham  is  placed  in  a  weak  pickle  for 
eight  days,  and  then  is  hung  up  in  the  snow. 

“  Most  Spaniards  have  a  knack  at  making  revueltas  de  hnevos , 
or  omelettes.  For  a  pisto ,  or  neat  omelette,  take  fresh  eggs, 
which  beat  up  well ;  chop  up  onions  and  whatever  savory  herbs 
you  have  with  you,  and  small  slices  of  any  meat  out  of  your 
hamper,  cold  turkey,  ham,  etc. ;  beat  all  up  together  and  fry 
quickly. 

“  The  guisado ,  or  stew,  like  the  olla,  can  only  be  Avell  done  in 
a  Spanish  pipkin.  This  dish  is  well  done  by  every  cook  in  every 
venta,  only  that  they  are  apt  to  put  in  bad  oil,  and  too  much  pep¬ 
per,  saffron,  and  garlic.  Superintend  it  therefore  yourself,  and 
take  hare,  rabbits,  partridge,  or  chicken,  or  whatever  you  may  have 
foraged  upon  the  road ;  cut  it  up,  save  the  blood,  the  liver,  and 
the  giblets  ;  do  not  wash  the  pieces,  but  dry  them  in  a  cloth ;  fry 
them  with  onions  in  a  tea-cup  of  oil  till  browned ;  take  an  olla, 
put  in  these  bits  with  the  oil,  equal  portions  of  wine  and  water ; 
add  a  bit  of  bacon,  onions,  garlic,  salt,  pepper,  pimentos,  a  bunch 
of  thyme,  or  herbs  ;  let  it  simmer,  carefully  skimming  it ;  half  an 
hour  before  serving,  add  the  giblets ;  when  done,  serve  hot.  The 
stew  should  be  constantly  stirred  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and 
grease,  the  ruin  of  all  cookery,  carefully  skimmed  off  as  it  rises  to 


236  DINNER. 

tlis  surface.  When  made  with  proper  care,  and  with  a  good  salad, 
it  forms  a  supper  for  a  cardinal. 

“  Another  very  excellent,  hut  very  difficult,  dish  is  the  polio  con 
arroz ,  or  the  chicken  and  rice.  It  is  eaten  in  perfection  in  Valen¬ 
cia,  and  is  therefore  often  called  Polio  Valencian.  Cut  a  good 
fowl  into  pieces,  wipe  them  clean,  but  do  not  put  them  into  water ; 
take  a  sauce-pan,  put  in  a  wine-glass  of  fine  oil,  heat  the  oil  well, 
put  in  a  bit  of  bread ;  let  it  fry,  stirring  it  about  with  a  wooden 
spoon  ;  when  the  bread  is  browned,  take  it  out  and  throw  it  away ; 
put  in  two  cloves  of  garlic,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  burn,  as, 
if  it  does,  it  will  become  bitter ;  stir  the  garlic  till  it  is  fried ;  put 
in  the  chicken,  keep  stirring  it  about  while  it  fries,  then  put  in  a 
little  salt  and  stir  again  ;  whenever  a  sound  of  cracking  is  heard, 
stir  again ;  when  the  chicken  is  well  browned  or  gilded,  which 
will  take  from  five  to  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly ,  put  in 
chopped  onions,  three  or  four  chopped  red  or  green  chiles,  and 
stir  about ;  if  once  the  contents  catch  the  pan,  the  dish  is  spoiled  ; 
then  add  tomatoes  divided  into  quarters,  and  parsly;  take  two 
teacupsful  of  rice,  mix  all  well  together;  add  hot  stock  enough  to 
cover  the  whole  over  ;  let  it  boil  once,  and  then  set  it  aside  to  sim¬ 
mer  until  the  rice  becomes  tender  and  done. 

“  The  great  art  consists  in  having  the  rice  turned  out  granu¬ 
lated  and  separate,  not  in  a  pudding  state,  which  is  sure  to  be 
the  case  if  a  cover  be  put  over  the  dish,  which  condenses  the 
steam.” — Ford’s  Spaniards  and  their  Country. 


OLD  ROMAN  CUSTOMS. 

Courses  at  Dinner. — The  first  course  consisted  of  different 
kinds  of  meat ;  the  second  of  fruits  and  sweetmeats.  During  the 
first  course,  a  large  platter  containing  a  variety  of  meats  was 
handed  about,  that  each  of  the  guests  might  take  what  he  chose. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  237 

“Minerva’s  target”  or  “shield”  was  a  dish  of  such  an  immense 
size,  that  it  would  hold  an  incredible  variety  of  the  rarest  and 
nicest  kinds  of  meat.  In  later  times,  in  the  first  course  were 
dishes  to  excite  the  appetite.  They  generally  began  an  enter¬ 
tainment  with  eggs,  and  ended  with  fruit.  Their  dessert  consisted 
of  apples,  pears,  nuts,  figs,  olives,  grapes,  pistachio  nuts,  almonds, 
dried  grapes,  dates,  mushrooms,  the  kernels  of  pine  nuts,  also 
sweetmeats,  confectionery,  cheese  cakes,  almond  cakes,  and  tarts. 

Favorite  Dishes. — Peacocks  became  so  fashionable  at  the  Ro¬ 
man  tables  that  they  attained  an  enormous  price,  their  eggs  being 
sold  for  five  denarii,  nearly  seventy-five  cents  each. 

The  guinea-hen,  the  nightingale,  pheasant,  kid,  thrush,  duck, 
crane,  and  goose,  were  all  highly  esteemed.  The  hedge-hog  was 
so  much  valued  that  it  was  salted  for  preservation.  The  dormouse 
was  eaten  by  them;  and  the  Roman  Gourmands  were  fond  of  the 
ilavor  of  young  and  well-fed  puppies.  When  Maecenas  himself 
entertained  Augustus  and  Horace,  the  flesh  of  the  young  asinus, 
or  common  ass,  was  served  up  at  his  table.  Sometimes  a  whole 
boar  was  stuffed  with  the  flesh  of  other  animals,  and  when  thus 
cooked  whole,  it  was  considered  a  masterpiece  of  cookery. 

The  Romans  were  also  fond  of  fish ;  the  mullet,  lamprey,  stur¬ 
geon,  pike,  were  in  favor,  but  they  especially  liked  shell-fish,  oys¬ 
ters,  and  snails.  The  elder  Pliny  tells  us  that  one  man  had  studied 
the  art  of  fattening  snails  with  paste  so  successfully,  that  the  shells 
of  some  of  them  would  hold  several  quarts.  “The  mullet  was 
reckoned  stale,  unless  it  died  in  the  hand  of  the  guest ;  and  they 
had  their  glasses  to  put  them  into,  that  they  might  the  better  ob¬ 
serve  all  the  changes  and  motions  of  them  in  the  last  agony  be¬ 
twixt  life  and  death ;  so  that  they  fed  their  eyes,  before  their  bodies 
Look ,  how  it  reddens ,  says  one  ;  there  is  no  vermilion  like  it ;  take 
notice  hoiv  the  gray  brightens  upon  the  head  of  it ;  and  now  it  is 
at  its  last  gasp  ;  see  how  pale  it  turns,  and  all  of  a  color. ” — Sen- 


238  DINNER. 

tea.  The  Romans  had  their  brooks  even  in  their  parlors,  where 
these  fish  were  kept  alive  until  wanted. 

Favorite  Fishes  of  Roman  Emperors. — “The  favorite  dishes  of 
the  Emperor  Heliogabulus,  were  tongues  of  peacocks  and  nightin¬ 
gales,  and  the  brains  of  parrots  and  pheasants.  He  fed  his  dogs 
with  the  liver  of  geese,  his  horses  with  raisins,  and  his  wild  beasts 
with  partridges  and  pheasants.  It  is  recorded  of  him,  that  at  one 
feast  he  had  served  up,  in  a  single  dish,  the  brains  of  six  hundred 
ostriches. 

“  The  Emperor  Vitellius,  who  was  a  great  glutton,  always  ate 
at  enormous  expense,  though  not  always  at  his  own  cost,  for  he 
frequently  invited  himself  to  breakfast  with  one  friend,  dine  with 
another,  and  sup  with  a  third ;  and  they  generally  entertained  him 
in  such  a  sumptuous  manner,  that  a  treat  seldom  cost  less  than 
ten  thousand  crowns.  The  most  memorable  supper  made  for  him 
was  that  of  his  brother,  on  his  first  arrival  in  Rome,  in  which  were 
two  thousand  dishes  of  fish,  and  seven  thousand  of  fowls,  every 
one  different,  and  the  most  expensive  that  could  be  had.  His  own 
profuseness  exceeded  even  this  at  the  dedication  of  that  famous 
dish,  which,  on  account  of  its  great  capacity,  he  called  Minerva's 
target ,  filling  it  with  the  sounds  of  mullets,  the  brains  of  pheas¬ 
ants  and  peacocks,  the  tongues  of  a  scarce  kind  of  birds  called 
plicenicopterus,  and  the  spawn  of  sea-lampreys,  brought  from  a 
great  distance.” — Guthrie. 

Bulwer  has  very  happily  illustrated  the  Roman  manners  at 
table  in  his  “Last  Days  of  Pompeii,”  from  which  we  extract  a 
portion  descriptive  of  Diomed’s  entertainment,  and  a  scene  with 
his  cooks : 

“  It  was  the  day  for  Diomed’s  banquet  to  the  most  select  of 
his  friends.  Although  it  was  at  one  time  thought  inelegant 
among  the  Romans  to  entertain  less  than  three  or  more  than  nine 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OP  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  239 

at.  their  banquets,  yet  this  rule  was  easily  disregarded  by  the 
ostentatious :  indeed,  we  are  told  in  history,  that  one  of  the  most 
splendid  of  the  entertainers  usually  feasted  a  select  party  of  three 
hundred. 

44 4  The  more  the  merrier,’  says  the  proverb, — for  my  part,  at 
a  dinner,  I  have  always  found  it  the  reverse ! 

“Diomed’s  party  consisted  of  eighteen, — no  unfashionable 
number  in  the  present  day. 

’  44  He  visited  his  kitchen,  that  sacred  apartment,  where  the 

priests  of  the  festival  prepare  their  offering. 

44  ‘  Oh !  oh !  ’  grumbled  he  to  himself,  4  Congrio  hath  invited  a 
whole  legion  of  cooks  to  assist  him.  They  won’t  serve  for  nothing 
— and  this  is  another  item  in  the  total  of  my  day’s  expenses.’ 

44  4  Ho,  Euclio,’  cried  one  of  the  strange  cooks,  4  your  egg-pan  ! 
What !  is  this  the  largest1?  it  only  holds  thirty-three  eggs ;  in  the 
houses  I  usually  serve,  the  smallest  egg-pan  holds  fifty,  if  need 
be!’ 

“  4  Who  ever  saw  such  antique  sweetmeat  shapes  as  these  *?  ’ 
cried  a  pert  little  culinary  disciple,  scarce  in  his  novitiate ;  4  it  is 
impossible  to  do  credit  to  one’s  art  with  such  rude  materials.  Why, 
Sallust’s  commonest  sweetmeat  shape  represents  the  whole  siege 
of  Troy,  Hector,  and  Paris,  and  Helen, — with  little  Astyanax 
and  the  wooden  horse  into  the  bargain.’ 

44  4  Silence,  fool !  ’  said  Congrio,  the  cook  of  the  house  ;  4  my 
master,  Hiomed,  is  not  one  of  those  expensive  good-for-naughts, 
who  must  have  the  last  fashion,  cost  what  it  will.’ 

44  Diomed  at  this,  calls  out  Congrio,  and  in  a  great  passion 
tells  him  4  he  hast  cost  him  enough  already  to  ruin  Lucullus  himself,’ 
and  demands  why  he  has  filled  his  house  with  more  cooks ;  he 
now  charges  him  to  see  that  the  Phrygian  attagans  are  not  over¬ 
roasted,  reminding  him  of  a  former  feast  when  he  so  boldly  under¬ 
took  the  becoming  appearance  of  a  Melian  Crane.  4  Thou  knowest 
it  came  up  like  a  stone  from  iEtna, — as  if  all  the  fires  of  Phlege- 


240  DINNER. 

thon  liad  been  scorching  out  its  juices.  Be  modest  this  time, 
Congrio,  wary  and  modest.  But,  I  say,  Congrio, — yon  pert- 
tongued  neophyte  of  the  kitchen, — was  there  aught  but  insolence 
on  his  tongue,  when  he  maligned  the  comeliness  of  my  sweetmeat 
shapes  ?  I  would  not  be  out  of  the  fashion,  Congrio.’ 

“  c  It  is  but  the  custom  of  us  cooks,’  replied  Congrio,  gravely, 
£  to  undervalue  our  tools  in  order  to  increase  the  effect  of  our  art. 
The  sweetmeat  shape  is  a  fair  shape,  and  a  lovely ;  but  I  would 
recommend  my  master,  at  the  first  occasion,  to  purchase  some  new 
ones  of  a - .’ 

“  ‘  That  will  suffice,’  exclaimed  Diomed,  c  now  resume  thy 
charge, — shine — eclipse  thyself — let  men  envy  Diomed  his  cook, 
— let  them  style  thee  Congrio  the  Great !  Go — yet  stay, — thou 
hast  not  spent  all  the  moneys  I  gave  thee  for  the  marketing  ?  ’ 

“  1  All ! — alas !  the  nightingales'  tongues , — the  oysters  from 
Britain,  the  tomacula ,  that  rich  delicate  sausage,  and  sundry 
other  things,  are  yet  left  unpaid  for ;  but  what  matter — every 
one  trusts  the  chief ’cook  of  Diomed  the  wealthy!  ’ 

“  ‘  0  !  unconscionable  prodigal — what  waste  ! — what  profusion  ! 
— but  go — taste ! — perform ! — surpass  thyself.’ 

“  The  festive  board  was  composed  of  three  tables ;  one  at  the 
centre  and  one  at  each  wing.  It  was  only  at  the  outer  side  of 
these  tables  that  the  guests  reclined ;  the  inner  space  being  left 
untenanted  for  the  greater  convenience  of  servants.  In  formal 
parties,  the  women  sat  in  chairs,  while  the  men  reclined.  The 
chair  of  lone  was  next  to  the  couch  of  Glaucus. 

“  The  modern  ornaments  of  Epergne  or  Plateau  were  supplied 
by  images  of  the  gods,  wrought  in  bronze,  ivory  and  silver.  The 
sacred  salt-cellar  and  the  familiar  Lares ,  were  not  forgotten. 
Over  the  table  and  seats,  a  rich  canopy  Avas  suspended  from  the 
ceiling.  At  each  corner  of  the  table,  were  lofty  candelabras,  for 
though  it  was  early  noon,  the  room  was  darkened ;  while  from 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  241 

tripods  placed  in  different  parts  of  the  room,  distilled  the  odoi 
of  myrrh  and  frankincense. 

“  The  custom  of  grace  was  invariably  supplied  by  that  of  liba¬ 
tions  to  the  gods ;  this  ceremony  being  performed,  the  slaves 
showered  flowers  upon  the  couches  and  the  floor,  and  crowned 
each  guest  with  rosy  garlands,  intermingling  each  with  the  ivy 
and  the  amethyst, — supposed  preventives  against  the  effect  of 
wine :  the  wreaths  of  the  women  only  were  exempted  from  these 
leaves,  for  it  was  not  the  fashion  for  them  to  drink  wine  in  public. 

“  It  was  then  that  Diomed  thought  it  advisable  to  institute  a 
director  of  the  feast — an  important  office,  sometimes  chosen  by 
lot,  sometimes  as  now  by  the  master  of  the  entertainment. 

“  The  appointment  being  made,  the  slaves  now  handed  round 
basins  of  perfumed  water,  by  which  lavation  the  feast  commenced. 
The  slaves  appeared  bearing  a  tray  covered  with  the  first  prepara¬ 
tive  initia  of  the  feast. 

“  Amid  delicious  figs,  fresh  herbs  strewed  with  snow  ancho¬ 
vies,  and  eggs,  were  ranged  small  cups  of  diluted  wine,  sparingly 
mixed  with  honey.  The  conversation  was  interrupted  for  a  mo¬ 
ment  by  a  flourish  of  flutes,  and  two  slaves  entered  bearing  an 
Ambracian  kid.  The  slave,  whose  duty  it  was  to  carve,  and  who 
valued  himself  on  his  science,  performed  that  office  on  the  kid  to 
the  sound  of  music,  his  knife  keeping  time.  The  second  course, 
consisting  of  a  variety  of  fruits,  pistachio  nuts,  sweetmeats,  tarts, 
and  confectionery,  was  now  placed  upon  the  table.  The  slaves 
in  the  interim  were  constantly  kept  upon  the  alert  by  the  vigilant 
director  of  the  feast,  who  chased  one  cup  by  another,  with  a 
celerity  which  seemed  as  if  he  were  resolved  to  exhaust  the  capa¬ 
cious  cellars  of  Diomed.  The  feast  proceeded — the  guests  grew  more 
talkative  and  noisy — when  the  slaves  bore  round  water  with  myrrh 
and  hyssop  for  the  finishing  lavation.  At  the  same  time  a  small 
circular  table  that  had  been  placed  in  the  space  opposite  the  guests, 
suddenly,  as  if  by  magic,  seemed  to  open  in  the  centre,  and  cast 
16 


DINNER. 


242 

up  a  fragrant  shower,  sprinkling  the  table  and  the  guests ;  while, 
as  it  ceased,  the  awning  above  them  wras  drawn  aside,  and  the 
guests  perceived  that  a  rope  had  been  stretched  across  the  ceiling, 
and  that  a  nimble  dancer  was  now  treading  his  airy  measures  over 
their  heads.” 

During  their  feasts,  the  guests  were  entertained  with  music  and 
dancing ;  sometimes  with  pantomimes  and  play-acting,  with  fook 
and  buffoons,  and  even  with  gladiators ;  but  the  more  sober  had 
only  persons  to  read  or  repeat  select  passages  from  a  book. 

Their  highest  pleasure  at  entertainments  arose  from  agreea¬ 
ble  conversation. 

ARTICLES  OF  FOOD  IN  ITALY. 

“You  would  be  surprised  at  the  articles  of  food  that  are  ex¬ 
posed  for  sale  in  Italy,  such  as  cock’s  combs,  the  claws  of  poultry, 
blood,  and  even  the  entrails  of  animals.  Meat  is  sold  here  in  bits 
as  small  as  we  distribute  about  the  table  ;  the  poorer  classes  scarce 
taste  meat  at  all.  Polenta  (hasty  pudding)  is  here  a  prime  arti¬ 
cle  of  food.  The  bread  they  eat  is  of  good  quality,  and  often 
made  luxurious  by  a  spreading  of  lard.  They  have  delicate  prep¬ 
arations  of  milk  resembling  our  curds,  but  much  .nicer,  called 
ricotta  and  giuncata.  Vegetables  are  very  cheap,  and  the  very 
poor  almost  live  on  the  coarse  kinds.  Soup  is  their  luxury  ;  soup 
by  courtesy,  but  really  the  thinnest  of  broths.  Wine  holds  the 
place  to  them  that  tea  does  to  our  working  people. 

“  Chestnuts  are  bread  here ;  they  are  cheap,  abundant,  and 
very  delicious  ;  much  larger  than  ours,  sweet  and  marrowy,  and 
approaching  the  lusciousness  of  fruit.  Their  sweet  odors,  as  they 
are  roasting,  perfume  the  streets.  IIow  poor  must  the  people  be 
to  subsist  on  these  things,  when  at  a  restaurateur’s  you  can  get  a 
dinner  for  twenty-five  cents,  consisting  of  soup,  three  or  four 
kinds  of  meat,  a  variety  of  vegetables,  a  pudding,  and  a  dessert 
of  fruit  and  nuts.” — Miss  Sedgwick. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  243 

GRECIAN  CUSTOMS. 

Athenian  Practices. — There  were  three  different  kinds  of 
feasts  or  entertainments  among  the  Athenians  ;  one  was  the  mar¬ 
riage  feast ;  of  the  other  two,  one  was  provided  at  the  sole  expense 
of  one  person,  the  other  was  made  at  the  common  expense  of  all 
present.  Xenophon  writes, — “  It  being  generally  the  custom  when 
they  met  together  for  every  one  to  bring  his  own  supper,  Socrates 
observed  that  whilst  some  took  such  care  of  themselves  as  to  have 
more  than  sufficient,  others  were  compelled  to  be  content  with  less. 
He,  therefore,  so  ordered  the  matter,  that  the  small  portion  of 
him  who  brought  little  should  be  offered  about  to  all  the  company 
in  such  a  manner,  that  no  one  could,  civilly,  refuse  to  partake  of  it ; 
nor  exempt  himself  from  doing  the  like  with  what  he  brought ;  by 
which  means  a  greater  equality  was  preserved  among  them. 
There  was  also  this  further  advantage  arising  from  it :  the  ex¬ 
penses  of  the  table  were  much  abridged  ;  for  when  they  saw,  that 
whatever  delicacy  they  brought  thither,  the  whole  company  would 
have  their  share  of  it,  few  chose  to  be  at  the  cost  to  produce  it ; 
and  thus  luxury  was  in  some  degree  put  a  stop  to  in  these  enter¬ 
tainments.” 

The  luxury,  elegance,  and  costliness  of  the  private  Athenian 
entertainments  are  too  well  known  to  require  notice  here.  Of 
some  of  the  particular  customs  at  table,  however,  we  have  such  a 
pleasing  illustration  written  by  Mrs.  Child,  who  had  studied 
thoroughly  the  Grecian  habits,  that  we  shall  add  it,  as  presenting 
them  in  a  more  agreeable  form  than  a  dry  detail  of  facts. 

“  The  guests  passed  between  the  marble  columns,  and  entered 
that  part  of  the  room  where  the  banquet  was  prepared. 

“Aspasia  filled  a  golden  basket  with  Athenian  olives,  Phoeni¬ 
cian  dates,  and  almonds  of  Naxos,  and  whispering  a  brief  invoca¬ 
tion,  placed  it  on  a  small  altar,  before  an  ivory  image,  which 
stood  in  the  midst  of  the  table. 

“  Seats  covered  with  crimson  cloth,  were  arranged  at  the  end 


DINNER. 


244 

of  the  couches  for  the  accommodation  of  women ;  hut  the  men  re¬ 
clined  in  Asiatic  fashion,  while  beautiful  damsels  sprinkled  per¬ 
fumes  on  their  heads,  and  offered  water  for  their  hands  in  vases 
of  silver.” 

At  length,  u  Plato  was  chosen  to  preside  over  the  festivities 
of  the  evening,  and  taking  garlands  from  the  golden  urn,  on  which 
they  were  suspended,  he  proceeded  to  crown  the  guests.  He  first 
placed  upon  Aspasia’s  head,  a  wreath,  among  whose  flowers  the 
rose  and  myrtle  were  most  conspicuous/  To  one  he  gave  a  cor¬ 
onal  of  violets,  and  upon  another’s  head  he  placed  a  wreath  of 
pure  white  lilies.  When  all  were  crowned,  at  a  signal  from  Plato, 
slaves  filled  the  goblets  with  wine,  and  he  rose  to  propose  the 
usual  libatiou  to  the  gods. 

u  Every  Grecian  guest  joined  in  the  ceremony 

“  After  the  guests  had  partaken  of  the  most  delicious  viands, 
a  female  slave  noiselessly  brought  a  silver  harp  to  Aspasia,  and 
placed  before  her  guests,  citheras  and  lyres.  Music  burst  upon 
the  ear ;  the  exhilarating  notes  stirred  every  Grecian  heart. 
Some  waved  their  garlands  in  triumph,  while  others  kept  time 
with  branches  of  myrtle.  At  length,  a  troop  of  maidens,  repre¬ 
senting  the  Zephyrs  and  the  Hours,  glided  in  and  out,  between 
the  marble  columns,  pelting  each  other  with  roses,  as  they  flew 
through  the  mazes  of  the  dance.  Presently,  the  music,  more 
measured  and  slow,  announced  the  dance  of  Ariadne  guiding  her 
lover  from  the  Labyrinth.  Comic  dances  follow.  When  the 
guests  depart,  gifts  are  bestowed  upon  them,  according  to  the 
munificent  custom  of  the  country.” — 

The  Athenian  cooks,  many  of  whom  came  from  Sicily,  were 
highly  skilled  in  their  art,  and  had  an  innumerable  variety  of 
dishes.  A  Grecian  poet  represents  one  of  the  cooks  boasting  of 
the  fine  feast  his  master  could  have  in  his  house,  and  makes 
him  enumerate  the  various  dishes  he  could  furnish. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  245 

“  There  is  sceut  of  Syrian  myrrh, 

There  is  incense,  there  is  spice 
There  are  delicate  cakes  and  loaves, 

Calces  of  meal  and  polypi, 

Tripe,  and  fat,  and  sausages, 

Soup,  and  beef,  and  figs,  and  peas, 

Garlic,  various  kinds  of  tunnies, 

Stisan,  pulse,  and  toast,  and  muffins, 

Beans,  and  various  kind  of  vetches, 

Honey,  cheese,  and  cheese-cakes  too, 

Wheat,  and  nuts,  and  barley-groats, 

Roasted  crabs,  and  mullets  boiled, 

Roasted  cuttle-fish,  boil’d  turbot, 

Frogs,  and  perch  and  mussels  too, 

Sharks,  and  roach,  and  gudgeons  too, 

Fish  from  doves  and  cuckoos  named, 

Plaice  and  flounders,  shrimps  and  rays. 

Then  beside  these  dainty  fish 
There  is  many  another  dish, — 

Honey-combs  and  juicy  grapes, 

Figs  and  cheese-cakes,  apples,  pears, 

Cornels  and  the  red  pomegranate, 

Poppies,  creeping  thyme,  and  parsley, 

Peaches,  olives,  plums  and  raisins, 

Leeks  and  onions,  cabbages, 

Strong  smelling  asafcetida, 

Fennel,  eggs,  and  lentils  cool, 

And  well-roasted  grasshoppers, 

Cardamums  and  sesame, 

Ceryces,  salt,  and  limpets  firm, 

The  pinna,  and  the  oyster  bright, 

The  periwinkle  and  the  whelk ; 

And  besides  this,  a  crowd  of  birds, 

Doves  and  ducks,  and  geese  and  sparrows, 

Thrushes,  larks,  and  jays  and  swans, 

The  pelican,  the  crane  and  stork, 

Wag-tails  and  ousels,  tits  and  finches ; 

And  to  wash  all  these  dainties  down 
There’s  wine,  both  native  and  imported, 

White  and  red,  and  sweet  and  acid, 

Still  or  effervescent.” 

The  Public  Meals  of  Sparta. — “  Lycurgus,  in  liis  endeavors 


DINNER. 


246 

to  banish  effeminacy  and  luxury,  and  the  love  of  riches  from 
Sparta,  made  a  regulation  to  suppress  the  magnificence  and  ex¬ 
travagance  of  private  tables,  and  ordained  that  all  the  citizens 
should  eat  together  of  the  same  common  victuals,  which  were 
prescribed  by  law,  and  expressly  forbade  all  private  eating  at 
their  own  houses. 

“  The  tables  consisted  of  about  fifteen  persons  each ;  where 
none  could  be  admitted  without  the  consent  of  the  whole  company. 
Each  person  furnished  every  month  a  bushel  of  flour,  eight  meas¬ 
ures  of  wine,  five  pounds  of  cheese,  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  figs, 
and  a  small  sum  of  money  for  preparing  and  cooking  the  food. 
Every  one,  without  exception  of  persons,  was  obliged  to  be  at  the 
common  meal ;  and  a  long  time  after  the  making  of  these  regula¬ 
tions,  king  Agis,  on  his  return  from  a  glorious  expedition,  having 
taken  the  liberty  to  dispense  with  the  law  in  order  to  eat  with 
his  wife,  was  reprimanded  and  punished. 

“  The  very  children  -were  present  at  these  public  tables,  and 
wrere  carried  thither  as  to  a  school  of  wisdom  and  temperance. 
Here  they  would  hear  grave  discourses  upon  government,  or  often 
the  conversation  was  enlivened  with  ingenious  and  sprightly 
raillery,  but  never  mixed  with  anything  vulgar  or  disgusting,  and 
if  their  jesting  seemed  to  make  any  person  uneasy,  they  never 
proceeded  any  further.  Here  their  children  were  also  trained  to 
secresy ;  as  soon  as  a  young  man  entered  the  dining-room,  the 
oldest  person  of  the  company  present  said,  pointing  to  the  door, 
‘ Nothing  spoken  here,  must  ever  go  out  there.1 

“  The  most  exquisite  of  all  their  dishes  was  the  black  broth,  and 
the  old  men  preferred  it  to  every  thing  that  was  set  upon  the 
table.  Dionysius  the  tyrant,  when  he  was  at  one  of  these  meals, 
was  not  of  the  same  opinion ;  and  what  was  a  ragout  to  them, 
was  to  him  very  insipid : — ‘  I  do  not  -wonder  at  it,’  said  the 
cook,  ‘for  the  seasoning  is  wanting.’  ‘What  seasoning?’  re¬ 
plied  the  tyrant.  ‘Running,  sweating,  fatigue,  hunger,  and 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  247 

thirst ;  these  are  the  ingredients,’  says  the  cook,  ‘  with  which  we 
season  all  our  food.’  ” — Rollin'. 

A  RUSSIAN  DINNER. 

A  dinner  party  m  Russia  is  much  like  ours,  except  that  all  the 
dishes  are  handed  round  ;  which  they  deem  more  pleasant  than 
the  stiff  formality  of  the  joints  being  placed  on  the  table.  The 
lady  and  gentleman  of  the  house  are  then  at  leisure  to  enter  into 
conversation  with  the  guests,  and  can  attend  to  the  minor  polite¬ 
nesses  requisite.  A  correspondent  of  the  London  Times  gives  us 
the  following  particulars  respecting  some  peculiar  Russian  dishes  : 

“  At  a  restaurant  in  Moscow,  you  will  first  be  presented  with 
a  huge  bowl  of  cabbage  soup,  a  kind  of  pot-au-feu ,  which  must 
be  eaten,  however,  with  several  odd  adjuncts,  such  as  cakes  stuffed 
with  chopped  vegetables,  a  dish  of  guelots,  chopped  fat,  fried 
brown  and  crisp  ;  and,  lastly,  a  large  ewer  of  sour  milk.  Then 
comes  a  vol-au-vent  of  fowl  and  toad-stools.  Next,  if  you  are 
alive,  a  boiled  sucking  pig,  with  tart  sauce,  then  a  very  nasty 
little  fish,  much  prized  in  Moscow,  and  called  sterlit ;  a  fid  of 
roast  beef  and  a  dish  of  birds  about  the  size  of  pigeons,  called 
guillemots  ;  a  compote  of  fruit  closes  the  meal.  I  have  forgotten 
to  say  how  it  begins.  Before  dinner  a  tray  is  laid  out  with 
caviare,  raw  salt  herrings,  raw  ham  and  sardines,  bottles  of 
brandy,  rodka,  anisette,  and  doppel  hummel ,  a  sweet  spirit  with 
a  flavor  of  mint.  It  is  de  rigueur  to  eat  some  of  this  ;  and  as 
the  caviare  is  generally  good,  it  is  the  best  part  of  the  dinner. 

“  Bears’  flesh,  reindeer  and  elk  are  sometimes  offered  for  sale  in 
the  markets  of  St.  Petersburg.  The  geese  are  cut  up,  and  the 
heads,  necks,  legs  and  carcasses  sold  separately  by  the  dozen,  or 
half  dozen,  strung  upon  small  cords.  Those  who  cannot  afford 
to  dine  on  the  breast  of  a  goose,  purchase  a  string  of  frozen  heads, 
or  a  few  dozen  of  webbed-feet,  to  boil  down  into  soup. — To  have 
a  sterlit  (the  imperial  fish  of  Russia)  is  the  desire  of  every  Rus- 


248  DINNER. 

sian  Amphitryon  ‘  ou  Von  dine.'  Sometimes  the  sterlit  does  not 
cost  more  than  a  turbot  in  England — a  guinea  or  two — hut  in 
the  season  the  price  rises  according  to  demand  and  the  state  of 
the  market,  and  ‘  as  much  as  fifty  guineas  have  been  given  for 
one.’  After  that,  our  small  extravagance  of  peas  at  two  guineas 
a  quart  sinks  to  shabbiness.  It  must  only  he  on  extraordinary 
occasions  when  sterlits  are  thus  purchased,  for  very  peculiar  ar¬ 
rangements  subsist  between  a  cook  and  his  master  ;  thus  described 
by  a  lady  who  has  spent  six  years  in  Russia : 

“  ‘  The  cook,  who  among  the  Russians  of  any  pretension  is 
always  a  man,  caters  ;  all  the  year  round  he  is  allowed  the  same 
amount  per  head  daily,  for  fish,  flesh,  fowl  and  vegetables ;  he 
therefore  provides  what  he  likes  every  day,  serving  fish,  soup,  fowl 
or  game,  and  flesh,  two  or  three  kinds  of  vegetables,  and  a  dish 
— sometimes  two — of  sweets,  fasts  of  course  excepted.  The 
German  maid  is  served  from  the  family  table,  hut  the  other  ser¬ 
vants  have  their  own  dishes,  their  schee  and  black  bread,  and  the 
raw  herrings,  and  so  forth,  at  noon,  and  their  fragrant  Mocha  at 
four  o’clock.  The  cook  is  at  liberty  to  do  what  he  pleases  with 
the  remains  of  the  daily  fare  ;  he  may  sell  it  either  hot  or  cold, 
which  he  generally  manages  to  do,  to  the  neighboring  tractir ,  or 
coffee-sliop,  or  to  some  of  the  people  in  the  attics ;  this  is  a  sys¬ 
tem  here.  The  Emperor  contracts  with  his  cooks,  paying  so 
much  per  head  for  dinner ;  the  Grand-Duchess  Marie  the  same. 
I  dined  one  day  with  a  lady  from  the  interior,  who,  during  her 
temporary  residence  in  the  capital,  took  an  “  appartement”  near 
the  Leuchtenberg  Palace,  and  our  dinner  of  several  courses  was 
supplied  by  the  cook  of  the  Grand  Duchess.  On  ordinary  occa¬ 
sions,  this  lady  and  her  companion  dined  very  bountifully  every 
day,  after  this  fashion,  at  three  shillings  each.’ 

“  Do  not  let  us  be  too  ready  to  smile  at  this  as  a  barbarous 
custom.  True  indeed  is  the  saying  of  Boileau,  that  ‘  un  diner 
rechauffe  ne  vaut  jamais  rien but  the  fashion  came  from  the 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  249 

royal  tables  of  tlie  old  regime  of  France,  and  was  not  despised 
in  England  when  that  magnus  Apollo  of  cooks,  the  immortal 
Careme,  used  to  sell  the  succulent  pales  that  came  untouched 
from  the  Regent’s  table.” 

SWEDISH  DISHEc, 

“  Some  of  the  purely  national  dishes  of  Sweden,  as  lut-fislc  on 
Christmas  Eve,  are  most  extraordinary  things ;  lut-fisk  being  the 
stock  fish  steeped  in  a  solution  of  potash,  until  decomposition  takes 
place.  On  Christmas  Eve  this  thing  is  boiled  and  eaten  with  oil 
sauce ;  and  this,  together  with  grot,  which  is  simply  boiled  rice, 
form  the  Christmas  dishes  of  Sweden.  The  smell  of  the  lut-fisk 
is  terrific ;  but  a  true  Swede  clings  to  his  national  dish  as  much 
as  any  beef-eating  Englishman  to  his. 

In  Sweden,  roast  reindeer  steaks  and  game  are  considered  nu¬ 
tritious,  well-flavored,  and  easy  of  digestion  ;  the  flesh  is  first  per¬ 
forated,  and  little  bits  of  lard  inserted ;  and  after  being  baked  in 
an  oven  it  is  served  in  a  quantity  of  white  sauce.” — Miss  Bun- 
bury’s  Northern  Europe. 

DINNERS  IN  TURKEY. 

“  The  dishes  are  very  diversified  and  numerous,  consisting 
usually  of  twelve  or  fifteen,  and  sometimes  even  of  thirty  courses, 
sweet  and  meat  dishes  being  introduced  in  alternate  succession  ; 
the  meal  commencing  with  soup  and  ending  with  pilaf — a  prepa¬ 
ration  of  rice.  They  have  a  species  of  pastry  which  is  remarka¬ 
bly  light  and  delicious,  and  the  Turkish  blanc-mange,  mohalleby , 
is  much  liked  even  by  Europeans.  Fruit  is  frequently  partaken 
of  during  a  repast.  The  order  in  which  dinner  is  served  is  as  fol¬ 
lows  : — soup,  rehab  or  roast  meat  in  small  pieces,  entremet  or  veg¬ 
etables  and  meat  cooked  together,  pastry,  roast  fish,  entremet, 
mohalleby,  entremet,  maccaroni,  fowls,  jelly,  <fec.,  until  at  last  it 


DINNER. 


250 

winds  up  with  the  significative  pilaf  and  sherbet.  No  wine  or 
liquor  is  served  at  table. 

They  use  neither  chairs  nor  tables,  but  a  low  stool  being  put 
in  the  middle  of  the  room,  a  large  circular  copper  tray  is  placed 
upon  it.  No  such  paraphernalia  as  cloths,  napkins,  knives,  and 
forks,  plates,  glasses,  <fcc.,  are  essential ;  one  long,  narrow  napkin 
is  provided,  which  goes  all  around  the  tray  and  lies  upon  the  floor, 
each  person  slipping  under  it  as  he  sits  down.  Small  loaves  of 
bread,  alternately  with  small  dishes  of  fruit,  pickles,  anchovies, 
cheese,  Ac.,  are  indiscriminately  scattered  around  the  edge  of  the 
tray,  in  the  middle  of  which  the  different  preparations  of  food  are 
successively  placed  by  the  servant,  and  the  food  is  eaten  by  the 
fingers, — excepting  the  soup,  for  which  wooden  spoons  are  pro¬ 
vided.  Around  the  tray  the  company  sit  with  their  legs  under 
them,  and  all  eating  from  the  dish  in  the  middle. 

The  mode  of  eating  in  Turkey  is  generally  conducted  with 
great  decorum.  The  master  of  the  house  commences  first,  and 
the  guests  or  other  members  of  the  family  follow  his  example. 
The  dishes  are  generally  dressed  so  as  to  give  no  one  any  incon¬ 
venience  in  eating  without  knife  and  fork. 

At  an  ordinary  reception  of  a  visitor  in  Turkey,  after  the 
usual  formal  salutations  are  passed,  he  is  first  offered  a  chibouk, 
after  which  sweetmeats  are  served  upon  a  silver  tray,  with  goblets 
of  wrater  and  then  coffee.  This  beverage  is  served  in  small  por¬ 
celain  cups  in  stands  of  silver  or  gold  to  secure  the  hand  from 
burning. — Oscanyon. 

DINNER  AMONG  THE  CIRCASSIANS. 

In  Circassia,  when  a  stranger  arrives,  mattresses  and  coverlets 
are  immediately  spread  upon  the  floor,  and  a  cheerful  fire  is  light¬ 
ed  under  an  enormous  chimney.  Dinner  is  brought  in  upon  a 
round  table  eighteen  inches  above  the  ground,  upon  which  a 
whole  sheep  is  deposited  in  a  complete  state  of  dissection.  In  the 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  251 

centre  is  a  sort  of  thick  porridge  made  of  millet  seed,  and  a 
wooden  bowl  containing  a  red-looking  sauce.  A  bowl  of  soup 
follows  the  mutton,  which  you  take  with  wooden  ladles.  Vege¬ 
tables,  plates,  knives,  forks,  salt  or  chairs,  are  luxuries  yet  un¬ 
known. 

THE  SHAII  OF  PERSIA  AT  DINNER. 

“  The  only  persons,  besides  servants,  admitted  into  the  saloon, 
where  the  Shah  dined,  were  the  three  princes,  his  sons,  who  had 
accompanied  him  ;  and  they  stood  at  the  farthest  end,  with  their 
backs  against  the  wall,  attired  in  dresses  of  ceremony. 

11  Mirza  Ahmek,  his  chief  physician  and  host,  remained  in  at¬ 
tendance  without.  A  cloth  of  the  finest  Caslimerian  shawl, 
fringed  with  gold,  was  then  spread  on  the  carpet  before  the  king, 
and  a  gold  ewer  and  basin  was  presented  for  washing  hands. 
The  dinner  was  then  brought  in  trays,  which,  as  a  precaution 
against  poison,  had  been  sealed  with  the  signet  of  the  head 
steward  before  they  left  the  kitchen,  and  were  broken  open  by 
him  again  in  the  presence  of  the  Shah. 

“  Here  were  displayed  all  the  refinements  of  cookery : 

“  Kice,  in  various  shapes,  smoked  upon  the  board ;  first,  the 
chilari ,  as  white  as  snow ;  then  the  pilau,  with  a  piece  of  boiled 
lamb,  smothered  in  the  rice ;  then  another  pilau  with  a  baked 
fowl  in  it ;  a  fourth,  colored  with  saffron,  mixed  up  with  dried 
peas  ;  and  at  length,  the  king  of  Persia  dishes,  the  narinj  pilau, 
made  with  slips  of  orange  peel,  spices  of  all  sorts,  almonds  and 
sugar. 

“  Salmon  and  herring,  from  the  Caspian  Sea,  were  seen  among 
the  dishes ;  and  trout  from  the  river  Zengi ;  then  in  china  basins 
and  bowls  of  different  sizes  were  the  ragouts,  which  consisted  of 
hash,  made  of  a  fowl  boiled  to  rags,  stewed  with  rice,  sweet  herbs 
and  onions ;  a  stew,  in  Avhich  was  a  lamb’s  marrow  bone,  with 
some  loose  flesh  about  it,  and  boiled  in  its  own  juice  ;  small 
gourds,  crammed  Avith  force-meat,  and  done  in  butter  ;  a  fowl, 


252  DINNER. 

stewed  to  rags,  with  a  brown  sauce  of  prunes  ;  a  large  omelette, 
about  two  inches  thick  ;  a  cup  full  of  the  essence  of  meat,  mixed 
with  rags  of  lamb,  almonds,  prunes  and  tamarinds,  which  was 
poured  upon  the  top  of  the  chilau ;  a  plate  of  poached  eggs,  fried 
in  butter  and  sugar,  and  a  stew  of  venison.  After  these  came  the 
roasts. 

“  A  lamb  was  served  up  hot  from  the  spit,  the  tail  of  which 
was  curled  up  over  its  back.  Partridges,  and  what  is  looked 
upon  as  the  rarest  delicacy  in  Persia,  two  partridges  of  the  valley, 
were  procured  for  the  occasion.  Pheasants  from  Mazanderan  were 
there  also,  as  well  as  some  of  the  choicest  hits  of  the  wild  ass  and 
antelope. 

“  The  display  and  the  abundance  of  delicacies  surprised  every 
one ;  and  they  were  piled  up  in  such  profusion  around  the  king, 
that  he  seemed  almost  to  form  a  part  of  the  heap.  I  do  not  men¬ 
tion  the  innumerable  little  accessories  of  preserves,  pickles,  cheese, 
butter,  onions,  celery,  salt,  pepper,  sweets  and  sours,  which  were 
to  be  found  in  different  parts  of  the  tray,  for  that  would  be 
tedious  ; — but  the  slierhets  were  worthy  of  notice,  from  their  pecu¬ 
liar  delicacy ;  these  were  contained  in  immense  bowls  of  the  most 
costly  china,  and  drank  by  the  help  of  spoons  of  the  most  exqui¬ 
site  workmanship,  made  of  the  pear-tree.  They  consisted  of  the 
common  lemonade,  made  with  superior' art, — of  the  selcenjebin,  or 
vinegar,  sugar  and  water,  so  mixed  that  the  sour  and  the  sweet 
were  as  equally  balanced  as  the  blessings  and  miseries  of  life, — 
the  sherbet  of  sugar  and  water,  with  rose-water  to  give  it  a  per¬ 
fume,  and  sweet  seeds  to  increase  its  flavor, — and  that  made 
of  the  pomegranate ; — all  highly  cooled  by  lumps  of  floating 
ice. 

“  The  king,  then  doubling  himself  down,  with  his  head  reclin¬ 
ing  towards  his  food,  buried  his  hand  in  the  pilaus  and  other 
dishes  before  him,  and  ate  in  silence,  while  the  princes  and  ser¬ 
vants  remained  immovable.  When  he  had  finished,  he  got  up, 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  253 

and  walked  into  an  adjoining  room,  where  he  washed  his  hands, 
drank  his  coffee,  and  smoked  his  water-pipe. 

“  In  the  course  of  eating,  he  ordered  one  of  the  pilaus,  of  which 
he  had  partaken,  to  he  carried  to  his  host,  by  a  servant  in  wait¬ 
ing.  As  this  is  considered  a  mark  of  peculiar  honor,  the  Mirza 
was  obliged  to  give  a  present  in  money  to  the  bearer. 

“  The  princes  then  sat  down ;  and  when  they  had  eaten  they 
rose,  and  the  dishes  were  served  up  in  another  room,  where  the 
noble  of  the  nobles,  the  Court  Poet,  the  master  of  the  horse,  and 
others  were  seated,  and  who  continued  the  feast  which  the  king 
and  his  sons  had  begun.  After  this,  the  dinner  was  taken  in  suc¬ 
cession  to  the  different  servants,  until  the  dishes  were  cleared  by 
the  tent-pitchers  and  scullions.” — Moi:ieu. 

ARAB  DISHES. 

“  The  dishes  of  the  Arabs  comprise,  for  the  most  part,  stewed 
meats  with  onions,  cut  up  fine,  and  some  other  vegetables.  A 
favorite  way  of  cooking  lamb  or  mutton  is,  to  cut  it  in  small 
bits,  and  roast  them  on  skewers.  They  sometimes  cook  a  whole 
sheep,  lamb,  or  kid,  stuffing  it  with  onions,  garlic,  pistachio  nuts, 
etc.  No  instrument  of  iron  or  steel  is  allowed  to  touch  it  after  it 
is  placed  upon  the  table,  but  it  is  separated  by  the  right  hand  of 
the  master  of  the  feast,  assisted  sometimes  by  one  or  more  of  his 
guests. 

“  The  Arabs  seldom  or  never  touch  their  food  with  their  left 
hand,  and  when  a  fowl  or  turkey  is  to  be  separated,  it  is  fre¬ 
quently  performed  by  the  right  hands  of  two  persons  sitting  near 
together,  though  some  of  them  are  so  expert  in  this  mode  of 
carving ,  as  to  dissect  a  fowl  very  handsomely  with  the  right  hand 
alone. 

“  Should  the  master  of  the  house  select  any  particularly  nice 
bit  of  meat,  and  offer  it  to  a  guest,  it  is  considered  a  great  mark 
of  civility,  and  should  be  received  in  one’s  mouth  from  his  fingers.” 


DINNER. 


254 

The  hospitality  of  the  Arabs  is  proverbial,  and  the  “  eating  of 
bread  ”  with  a  stranger  is  a  pledge  for  his  safety  and  friendship. 

Eice  enters  largely  into  the  diet  of  the  Orientals,  and  fruits, 
as  dates,  figs,  form  an  important  article  of  their  living. 

TARSEE  CUSTOMS. 

Madame  Pfeiffer’s  account  of  a  visit  in  Bombay  at  the  house 
of  a  Parsee  or  Fire-worshipper. 

“  I  remained  during  their  meal-time,  a  liberty  which  no 
orthodox  Parsee  could  have  afforded  to  me.  I  was  not  allowed, 
however,  to  join  them  at  table.  It  was  first  laid  for  me  and  I  ate 
alone.  Several  dishes  were  placed  before  me  which  were  prepared 
in  the  European  manner. 

“  When  I  had  appeased  my  appetite,  the  table  was  carefully 
brushed,  as  if  I  had  been  infected  with  the  plague.  Flat  cakes 
of  bread  were  then  brought  and  laid  upon  the  uncovered  table, 
instead  of  plates,  and  six  or  seven  of  the  same  dishes  which  had 
been  served  to  me.  The  members  of  the  family  each  washed 
their  hands  and  faces,  and  the  father  said  a  short  grace. 

“  They  all  reached  their  right  hand  into  the  different  dishes. 
They  tore  the  flesh  from  the  bones,  separated  the  fish  into  pieces, 
and  then  dipped  the  pieces  into  the  various  soups  and  sauces,  and 
threw  them  with  such  dexterity  into  the  mouth  that  they  did  not 
touch  their  lips  with  their  fingers.  Whoever  accidentally  does, 
must  rise  and  wash  his  hands  again.” 

A  HINDOO  MEAL. 

The  favorite  food  of  the  Hindoo  is  rice  and  curry,  which  is 
prepared  in  the  following  manner  : 

“A  quantity  of  rice  is  boiled  in  an  earthen  vessel.  In 
another  vessel  of  smaller  dimensions,  a  chicken,  fish  or  piece  of 
mutton,  is  cooked  in  ghee ,  to  which  are  added  from  two  to 
five  spoonsful  of  a  powder  composed  of  the  following  ingredients : 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  255 

ginger,  saffron,  cummin,  coriander,  aniseed,  red  pepper,  tama¬ 
rind,  tumeric,  garlic,  made  a  liquid  in  cocoa-nut  milk  ;  the  amount 
of  the  ingredients  depending  upon  the  taste  of  the  person.  The 
meal  being  prepared,  a  small  quantity  is  placed  before  the  idol  to 
propitiate  it.  On  the  floor  of  an  inferior  room  a  brass  plate,  or  a 
large  leaf  is  placed ;  a  quantity  of  the  boiled  rice  is  then  piled 
upon  it,  and  above  it  the  before  mentioned  fragrant  and  delicious 
curry.  After  washing  his  hands,  and  making  a  short  prayer,  the 
Hindoo  mixes  the  ingredients  with  his  right  hand  into  a  small 
ball,  and  tosses  it  dexterously  into  his  mouth ;  lest  any  portion 
fall  upon  the  plate,  and  defile  the  remaining  mass.  Saliva  is 
considered  an  impure  secretion. 

“  A  Hindoo  woman  never  sits  down  to  eat  with  her  husband ; 
she  and  her  daughters  sit  patiently  by,  and  then  regale  them¬ 
selves  upon  what  is  left.” 

No  genuine  Hindoo  will  eat  with  a  person  of  a  different  caste, 
and  he  will  turn  away  with  disgust  if  invited  to  a  feast  ivith  a 
European. 

SIAMESE  CUSTOMS. 

Mr.  Ruschenberger,  the  surgeon  to  the  American  expedition 
to  Siam,  in  describing  a  state  feast  given  to  the  officers,  states 
“  that  the  dinner  was  remarkable  for  the  variety  and  exquisite 
flavor  of  the  curries.  Among  them  was  one,  consisting  of  ants' 
eggs ,  a  costly  and  much  esteemed  luxury  of  Siam.  They  are  not 
larger  than  grains  of  sand,  and  to  a  palate  unaccustomed  to  them, 
are  not  particularly  savory  !  They  are  almost  tasteless.  Besides 
being  curried,  they  are  brought  to  the  table  rolled  in  green  leaves, 
mingled  with  shreds  or  very  fine  slices  of  fat  pork.  Here  was 
seen  an  ever  to  be  remembered  luxury  of  the  East.” 

“When  the  Siamese  would  have  no  more  tea,  they  turn  the 
cups  down  on  the  saucer,  because  it  is  the  greatest  incivility  in 
them  to  refuse  any  thing,  and  if  they  left  the  cups  standing,  they 
would  be  served  with  more  tea,  which  they  are  obliged  to  receive. 


256  DINNER. 

“The  Siamese  are  skilled  in  making  conserves  of  rose-leaf 
and  lime  blossoms,  and  in  preparing  the  candied  lime  and  citron. 
They  equal  the  Chinese  in  making  preserved  and  candied  ginger.” 
— Neal’s  Residence  in  Siam. 

A  BURMESE  DAINTY. 

The  author  of  A  Mission  to  Ava ,  says : 

“The  most  notable  viand  produced  consisted  of  fried  locusts. 
These  were  brought  in  hot,  in  successive  saucers,  and  I  was  not 
sorry  to  have  the  opportunity  of  tasting  a  dish  so  famous.  They 
were  by  no  means  bad — much  like  what  we  might  suppose  fried 
shrimps  to  be.  The  inside  is  removed  and  the  cavity  stuffed 
with  a  little  spiced  meat.” 

CHINESE  DISHES. 

“The  first  dish  was  a  species  of  soup  called  by  the  natives 
chou-chou;  it  was  a  composition  of  pork,  fowls,  yams,  sweet  pota¬ 
toes,  ducks,  fish,  onions,  garlic,  mint,  pepper,  salt,  and  cloves. 
These  were  boiled  down  to  a  perfect  mush ;  then  more  water 
and  a  small  piece  of  bird's  nest  were  added,  till  the  whole  resem¬ 
bled,  in  substance  and  color,  very  rich  turtle  soup.  This  singular 
mixture  was  highly  approved  by  our  party,  and  having  once  eaten 
it,  I  should  be  glad  to  have  such  another  mess  again  any  day  in 
the  week.  After  this  soup,  we  had  some  plain  boiled  rice,  with 
mango  pickles,  and  balichung. 

“  This  latter  was  quite  delicious,  but  imagine  my  horror  some 
few  days  after,  on  learning  that  balichung  was  putrefied  brawns, 
which  are  in  this  state  dried  in  an  oven,  and  then  beat  up  in  a 
mortar  with  onions,  garlic,  spices,  and  a  little  salt ;  this  is  then 
placed  in  a  jar,  and  hot  vinegar  poured  over  it.  Being  left  a 
sufficient  time  to  allow  the  vinegar  to  penetrate  and  thoroughly 
saturate  the  fish,  the  jar  is  hermetically  closed,  and  set  aside  for 
a  couple  of  months,  or  longer. 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OP  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  257 

“  The  last  dish  consisted  of  some  roast  ducks  done  to  a  nicety.1* 
— Neal. 

“On  the  sea-coast  of  the  kingdom  of  China,  a  sort  of  small, 
parti-colored  birds,  of  the  shape  of  swallows,  at  a  certain  season 
of  the  year,  viz.,  their  breeding  time,  come  out  of  the  midland 
country  to  the  rocks,  and  from  the  foam  or  froth  of  the  sea-water 
dashing  and  breaking  against  the  bottom  of  the  rocks,  gather  a 
certain  clammy,  glutinous  matter,  of  which  they  build  their  nests. 
These  nests,  the  Chinese  pluck  from  the  rocks,  and  briug  in  great 
numbers  to  the  East  Indies  to  sell ;  which  are  esteemed  by 
gluttons  as  great  delicacies,  who,  dissolving  them  in  chicken  or 
mutton  broth,  are  very  fond  of  them,  preferring  them  far  before 
oysters,  mushrooms,  or  other  dainty  morsels  which  most  gratify 
the  appetite.  These  nests  are  of  a  hemispherical  figure,  of  the 
size  of  a  goose’s  egg,  and  of  a  substance  resembling  isinglass.” 
— Willoughby. 

“  There  is  a  marine  delicacy  of  the  Chinese  which  must  not 
pass  unnoticed  ;  it  is  a  kind  of  sea-slug  fished  for  on  the  coral 
reefs  of  the  Eastern  seas,  and  known  under  the  name  of  Beche-de- 
Mer. 

“In  the  process  of  curing,  it  is  first  boiled,  then  opened  down 
the  back,  and  lastly  smoked.  When  dried,  it  is  an  ugly-looking 
dirty-brown  substance,  very  hard  and  rigid  until  softened  by 
water,  and  a  very  lengthened  process  of  cooking,  after  which  it 
becomes  soft  and  mucilaginous.  It  is  rendered  into  a  sort  of  thick 
soup,  which  is  considered  by  the  Chinese  one  of  the  greatest  of 
luxuries.” 

A  traveller  says  of  a  stew  of  sea-slugs.: 

“  They  are  slippery,  and  very  difficult  to  be  handled  by  inex¬ 
perienced  chopsticks ;  but  they  are  most  succulent  and  pleasant 
food,  not  unlike  in  flavor  to  the  green  fat  of  a  turtle.” 

Another  traveller,  author  of  “ Life  in  China”  describes  a 
very  peculiar  dish: — “When  our  party  of  six  had  seated  them- 
17 


I. 


258  DINNER. 

selves  at  tlie  centre  table,  my  attention  was  attracted  by  a  covered 
dish, — something  unusual  at  a  Chinese  meal.  On  a  certain  signal, 
the  cover  was  removed,  and  presently  the  face  of  the  whole  table 
was  covered  with  juvenile  crabs,  which  made  their  exodus  from 
the  dish  with  all  possible  rapidity.  The  crablets  had  been  thrown 
into  a  plate  of  vinegar,  just  as  the  company  sat  down, — such  an 
immersion  making  them  more  brisk  and  lively  than  usual.  But- 
the  sprightly  sport  of  the  infant  crabs  was  soon  checked,  by  each 
guest  seizing  which  he  could,  dashing  it  into  -his  mouth,  crushing 
it  between  his  teeth,  and  swallowing  the  whole  morsel,  without 
ceremony.  Determined  to  do  as  the  Chinese  did,  I  tried  this 
novelty  also  with  one — with  two.  I  succeeded,  finding  the  shell 
soft  and  gelatinous,  for  they  were  tiny  creatures,  not  more  than 
a  day  or  two  old.” 

In  China,  rat  soup  is  considered  equal  to  ox-tail  soup ;  the 
dog  is  fattened  for  the  table,  and  the  flesh  of  dogs  is  as  much 
liked  by  them  as  mutton  is  by  us. 

In  the  eating-houses,  rats,  bats,  snails,  and  bad  eggs,  are 
eaten,  and  the  fins  and  tails  of  the  shark  are  said  to  be  very 
much  relished  in  soups. 

“A  collection  of  Chinese  food  has  just  been  forwarded  to 
England  from  Shanghai.  The  wines  are  made  principally  of  rice, 
and  perfumed  with  flowers  like  those  used  in  scenting  the  teas. 
Specimens  of  various  sorts  of  tea  are  sent,  and  of  the  flowers  em¬ 
ployed  for  scenting.  There  are  three  kinds  of  sea-weed,  not  un¬ 
like  the  Carrageen  moss.  The  animal  substances  are  fish  maws, 
trespang  or  sea-cucumbers,  beche-de-mer,  and  shark’s  fins.  Noth¬ 
ing  in  the  form  of  either  kittens  or  puppies  has  been  found ; 
only  some  antelopes’  legs  ready  for  making  soup.  Fourteen 
varieties  of  cake  show  the  style  of  light  confectionery  among  the 
Chinese.  The  preserved  fruits  and  vegetables  are  numerous,  and 
there  is  a  variety  of  tobacco;  some  specimens  marked  “mild” 
for  women.  There  are  also  seeds,  dried  fruits,  and  preparations 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATION'S.  259 

from  the  bamboo,  with  condiments  of  various  kinds,  and  a  speci¬ 
men  of  arrowroot  from  the  roots  of  the  water  lily.  It  is  a  very 
interesting  addition  to  the  Food  Museum.” 

The  Chinese  cook  discards  spices,  hut  uses  plenty  of  oils  and 
fats.  He  is  highly  skilled  in  the  culinary  art ;  a  late  traveller 
assigns  to  him  here  a  middle  position, — below  the  French,  and 
above  the  English. 

Although  many  strange  articles  of  food  are  eaten  by  the 
Chinese,  they  are  generally  prepared  in  such  a  way  as  to  render 
them  palatable  to  unprejudiced  persons. 

JAPANESE  CUSTOMS  AND  ENTERTAINMENTS. 

In  their  private  houses  the  Japanese  have  no  tables,  but  use 
instead  small  lacquered  stands,  of  about  a  foot  in  height. 
These  are  in  use  because  of  the  universal  practice  of  the  people 
to  crouch  down  in  a  sitting  posture ;  therefore  they  have  but  lit¬ 
tle  occasion  for  chairs  or  seats.  One  of  these  stands  is  placed 
before  each  person  at  meals,  and  he  takes  his  tea,  sips  his  sakee, 
or  eats  his  soup  from  it  as  he  crouches  on  the  floor.  The 
household  utensils  are  few  and  simple,  consisting  of  a  supply  of 
wooden  chop-sticks,  an  occasional  earthen  spoon,  a  few  china 
bowls,  some  lacquered  cups,  and  the  tea-kettle.  This  kettle  is  of 
earthenware  or  of  bronze,  and  sometimes,  but  rarely,  of  silver, 
and  is  always  kept  boiling  over  the  charcoal  fire  which  burns  in  the 
centre  of  the  apartment,  where  square  holes,  lined  with  tiles  and 
filled  with  sand,  are  made  for  the  purpose.'  The  tea  is  in  univer¬ 
sal  use,  and,  as  in  China,  is  infused  in  each  cup  as  it  is  wanted, 
and  drank  without  sugar.  The  sakee  is  also  drank  generally, 
and  when  a  guest  arrives  he  is  expected  to  take  either  tea  or  sa¬ 
kee,  or  both. 

Their  chief  meal  consists  mainly  of  three  dishes :  hot  stewed 
fish  of  the  consistence  of  thick  soup,  cold  fish  garnished  with 
grated  radish,  and  an  odd  compound  composed  of  fish,  shrimps, 


DINNER. 


260 

dried  sea-weed,  and  hard-boiled  eggs.  These  are  served  in  cov¬ 
ered  bowls,  and  always  accompanied  by  two  cups,  one  containing 
soy  to  season  each  dish,  the  other,  the  never-to-be-omitted  sakee. 
On  one  occasion  Commodore  Perry  partook  of  refreshments  at 
the  bouse  of  the  mayor  of  one  of  the  towns.  He  was  hospitably 
entertained  with  tea,  cakes,  confectionery,  sakee,  and  a  kind  of 
hot  waffle,  made  of  rice  flour.  The  mayor  himself  waited  upon 
him,  assisted  by  bis  wife  and  sister,  who  remained  on  their  knees, 
(as  is  customary  when  among  strangers,)  yet  moved  about  very 
actively  with  the  silver  sakee  kettle,  to  replenish  the  cups. 

“  At  a  morning  call  in  Japan,  after  bowing  in  their  peculiar 
manner,  pipes  and  tea  are  brought  in  ;  then  confectionery  or  other 
dainties  are  served  on  a  piece  of  white  paper.  What  the  visitor 
does  not  eat  he  carefully  folds  up  in  the  paper  and  deposits  in 
his  pocket  or  sleeve.  This  practice  of  carrying  away  what  is  not 
eaten  is  so  invariable  a  rule  of  Japanese  good  breeding,  that  at 
grand  dinners  the  guests  are  expected  to  bring  servants  with 
baskets  to  receive  the  remnants  of  the  feast.” 

“  At  a  Japanese  banquet,  the  dishes  are  tricked  out  with  gold 
leaf,  and  upon  very  grand  occasions  the  hills,  legs,  and  claws  of 
the  birds  served  up,  are  also  gilt.  The  viands  consist  of  every 
kind  of  vegetable,  sea-weed  not  excepted ;  of  game,  poultry,  and 
fish.  There  are  usually  seven  or  eight  courses,  and  while  they 
are  changing,  the  master  of  the  house  walks  round,  drinking  sakee 
with  his  guests.  Each  guest  is  served  with  a  portion  of  every 
dish  in  a  small  howl.  Another  howl  is  placed  by  the  side  of  it, 
and  kept  constantly  replenished  with  rice,  while  the  sauces  and 
other  condiments,  as  soy,  salted  ginger,  salted  fish,  etc.,  are  hand¬ 
ed  round  by  servants.  The  chief  object  in  giving  these  enter¬ 
tainments,  is  said  to  he  less  the  assembling  of  a  cheerful  party 
than  to  exhibit  the  abundance,  variety,  and  richness  of  the  china 
and  lacquered  ware  possessed  by  the  master  of  the  feast,  to  whom 
and  to  his  wife,  no  compliment  is  so  agreeable  as  admiration  of  the 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  261 

table  service,  accompanied  by  inquiries  concerning  the  cost  of  the 
various  articles.  On  grand  occasions  they  make  a  great  display 
of  splendid  lacquered  bowls,  silken  napkins,  etc.” 

ABYSSINIAN  DINNER. 

Major  Harris  gives  us  the  following  account  of  a  dinner  given 
on  Easter  day  in  the  royal  palace  of  the  King  of  Shoa,  in  Abys¬ 
sinia,  to  which  the  British  embassy  received  special  invitation  : 

“  Tents  had  been  erected  in  the  court  yard,  and  a  separate 
repast  provided  for  the  foreign  guests.  Countless  crowds  filled 
every  inclosure ;  and  long  files  of  slaves  with  jars,  baskets,  and 
trenchers,  hurrying  to  and  from  the  kitchens  and  magazines,  pro¬ 
claimed  the  extensive  nature  of  the  preparations  for  the  royal  en¬ 
tertainment. 

“  At  length  the  doors  of  the  great  hall  were  thrown  open,  and 
a  burst  of  wild  music  from  the  royal  band,  ushered  in  the  company 
to  a  spacious  barn-like  apartment,  the  dingy  aspect  of  which 
formed  a  striking  contrast  to  the  galaxy  of  light  that  illumines 
regal  hospitality  in  Europe.  Holding  high  festival  to  all  the 
adult  population  of  the  metropolis,  the  king  reclined  in  state 
within  a  raised  alcove,  furnished  with  the  wonted  velvet  cushions, 
and  loaded  with  silver  ornaments.  Bull  hides  carpeted  the  floor, 
and  the  lofty  walls  were  hung  throughout  with  a  profusion  of  em¬ 
blazoned  shields,  from  each  of  which  depended  a  velvet  scarf  or 
cloak  of  every  color  of  the  rainbow. 

“  A  low  horse-shoe  table  of  wicker-work  extended  the  entire 
length  of  the  hall.  Thin  unleavened  cakes  of  sour  teff,  heaped 
one  upon  another,  served  as  platters.  Mountains  of  wheaten 
bread,  piled  in  close  contiguity  and  strewed  with  fragments  of 
stewed  fowls,  towered  two  or  three  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
groaning  board.  Bowls  containing  a  decoction  of  red  pepper, 
onions,  and  grease,  were  flanked  by  long-necked  decanters  of  old 
mead,  and  at  short  intervals  stood  groups  of  slaves  carrying  has- 


DINNER. 


262 

kets  crammed  with  reeking  collops  of  raw  flesh,  just  severed  from 
the  newly  slain  carcass. 

“  Taking  their  seats  in  treble  rows  upon  the  ground,  the 
crowded  guests  were  each  provided  with  his  own  knife,  fashioned 
like  a  reaping  hook,  and  serving  him  equally  in  the  battle-field 
and  at  the  banquet.  Four  hundred  voracious  appetites  were 
constantly  ministered  to  by  fresh  arrivals  of  quivering  flesh 
from  the  court-yard,  where  oxen  in  quick  succession  were 
thrown  down  and  slaughtered.  Barilles  and  capacious  horns 
filled  with  liyclromel  of  intoxicating  age,  were  rapidly  drained  and 
replenished  ;  and  strings  of  eunuchs  with  the  females  pertaining 
to  the  royal  kitchen,  passed  and  repassed  continually,  with  in¬ 
terminable  supplies  of  bread  to  rebuild  the  demolished  fabric,  on 
the  uprising  of  each  satiated  group.  The  royal  band  occupied  the 
space  vacant  in  the  centre  betwen  the  tables : — harpers  and 
fiddlers  played,  danced,  and  sung  with  untiring  perseverance ;  and 
ever  and  anon,  one  of  the  king’s  female  choristers  lifted  up  her 
shrill  voice  with  extravagant  panegyrics  on  the  hospitality  of  her 
master,  and  unqualified  eulogy  on  the  liberality  of  his  British 
guests. 

“The  carousal  continued  until  dark,  by  which  time  the  bones 
of  three  hundred  and  fifty  steers  had  been  picked,  countless 
measures  of  wheat  had  been  consumed,  and  so  many  hogsheads 
of  old  hydromel  had  been  drained  to  the  dregs,  that  saving  the 
royal  and  munificent  host,  scarcely  one  sober  individual,  whether 
noble  or  plebeian,  was  anywhere  to  be  seen.” 

In  ordinary  life  these  people  take  two  meals  in  a  clay — at 
noon  and  at  sunset.  The  doors  are  scrupulously  barred  to 
exclude  the  evil  eye,  and  a  fire  is  lighted,  before  the  Amliara  will 
venture  to  appease  his  hunger  ; — a  superstition  existing  that  with¬ 
out  this  precaution  devils  would  enter  in  the  dark,  and  there 
would  be  no  blessing  on  the  meat.  Mastication  is  accompanied 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  263 

by  a  loud  smacking  of  the  lips — an  indispensable  sign  of  good 
breeding !  which  is  said  to  be  neglected  by  none  but  mendicants, 
“  who  eat  as  if  they  were  ashamed  of  it.” 

Ravj  flesh  forms  the  great  aliment  of  life ;  and  a  sovereign 
contempt  is  entertained  toward  all  who  have  recourse  to  a  culinary 
process. 

“Do  all  of  your  nation  thus  burn  their  meat?”  inquired  an 
Abyssinian  woman,  after  attentively  watching  the  process  of  cook¬ 
ing.  “  I  was  told  that  such  was  the  case,  but  could  never  have 
believed  it.” 

NATIVE  COOKING  AND  EATING  IN  THE  PACIFIC  ISLANDS. 

“A  large  hole  is  dug  in  the  ground,  fire  is  placed  at  the 
bottom,  and  covered  with  small  pieces  of  wood,  upon  which,  when 
well  ignited,  stones  are  heaped.  When  the  whole  becomes  heated, 
green  leaves  are  placed  upon  them,  and  then  the  articles  to  be 
cooked,  such  as  pigs,  mutton,  dogs,  Ac.,  with  all  kinds  of  vege¬ 
tables.  These  are  then  covered  with  leaves  and  heated  stones, 
with  leaves  again  and  grass,  and  finally  earth  is  thrown  over  the 
whole  mass,  so  as  not  to  allow  any  of  the  heat  or  steam  to  escape. 
When  thus  cooked,  the  meats  preserve  all  their  juices,  and  the 
llavor  is  said  to  be  superior  to  any  thing  of  the  kind  cooked  in 
any  other  way.” 

The  Pacific  Islanders ,  until  the  introduction  of  Christianity 
amongst  them,  ate  no  fish,  flesh,  or  fowl,  without  suspicion  or 
alarm,  regarding  them  as  incarnations  of  their  gods.  “  One,  for 
instance,  saw  his  god  in  the  eel,  another  in  the  shark,  another  in 
the  turtle,  another  in  the  dog,  another  in  the  owl,  another  in  the 
lizard ;  and  so  on  throughout  the  fish  of  the  sea,  four-footed 
beasts  and  creeping  things.  In  some  of  the  shell-fish,  even,  gods 
were  supposed  to  be  present.  A  man  would  eat  freely  of  what 
was  regarded  as  the  incarnation  of  the  god  of  another  man,  but 
the  incarnation  of  his  own  particular  god,  he  would  consider  it 


DINNER. 


264 

death  to  injure  or  eat. — The  god  was  supposed  to  avenge  the  in¬ 
sult  by  taking  up  his  abode  in  that  person’s  body,  and  causing  it 
to  generate  disease.” 

“  The  Maldivians  eat  alone.  They  retire  into  the  most  hidden 
parts  of  their  houses,  and  draw  down  the  cloths  that  serve  as 
blinds  to  their  windows  that  they  may  eat  unobserved.  The 
reason  for  this  is,  that  they  will  never  eat  with  any  one  who  is 
inferior  to  them  in  birth,  riches,  or  dignity: — and  as  it  is  a 
difficult  matter  to  settle  their  equality,  they  are  condemned  to  lead 
this  unsocial  life.” 

“It  is  the  custom  among  the  Otaheitans  for  the  members  of 
each  family  to  separate  at  the  hour  of  repast,  two  brothers,  two 
sisters,  and  even  husband  and  wife,  father  and  mother,  have  each 
their  respective  baskets ;  they  turn  their  backs,  and  take  their 
meal  in  profound  silence.” 

FOOD  OF  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 

“  The  choicest  dish  of  the  Greenlander  is  the  flesh  of  the 
reindeer  ;  but  as  these  animals  have  now  become  extremely  scarce, 
they  are  indebted  to  the  sea  for  their  permanent  sustenance. 

“  The  head  and  fins  of  the  seal  are  preserved  under  the  grass 
in  summer,  and  in  winter  a  whole  seal  is  frequently  buried  in  the 
snow.  The  flesh,  half  frozen,  half  putrid,  is  eaten  with  the  keenest 
relish.  They  set  a  great  value  on  what  they  find  in  the  reindeer’s 
maw,  making  it  into  a  dish  which  they  call  the  ‘  eatable,’  and 
send  presents  of  it  to  their  friends.” 

At  a  banquet  to  which  a  traveller  was  invited  with  several 
respectable  Greenlanders,  the  following  dishes  made  their  appear¬ 
ance  : — Dried  herrings  ;  dried  seal’s  flesh ;  the  same  boiled  ;  half 
raw  or  putrid  seal’s  flesh  called  mikiak  ;  boiled  auks ;  part  of  a 
whale’s  tail  in  a  half  putrid  state,  which  was  considered  a  prin¬ 
cipal  dish ;  dried  salmon ;  dried  reindeer  venison ;  preserves  of 


TABLE  HABITS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  NATIONS.  265 

crow-berries  mixed  with  the  chyle  from  the  maw  of  the  reindeer; 
and  lastly  the  same  enriched  with  train-oil. 

At  another  repast,  we  are  told  that  “next  came  a  portion 
of  whale’s  flesh,  or  rather  whale’s  skin.  This  was  perfectly  ebony 
in  hue :  it  was  cut  and  re-cut,  crosswise,  into  diminutive  cubes. 
Venturing  upon  one  of  these  we  were  agreeable  surprised  to  find 
it  possessing  a  cocoa-nut  flavor,  like  which  it  also  cut  ‘  very  short ;  ’ 
and  we  had  consumed  a  number  of  these  cubes,  and  with  great 
relish  too,  before  we  recovered  from  our  wonder.” 

Dr.  Kane  says,  “Our  journeys  have  taught  us  the  wisdom  of 
the  Esquimaux  appetite.  The  liver  of  a  walrus,  eaten  with  little 
slices  of  his  fat,  is  a  delicious  morsel.  Fire  would  ruin  the  curt, 
pithy  expression  of  vitality  which  belongs  to  its  uncooked  juices. 
With  acids  and  condiments,  it  makes  a  salad  which  an  educated 
palate  cannot  help  relishing,  and  as  a  powerful  and  condensed 
heat-making  food,  it  has  no  rival.  I  make  this  last  broad  assertion, 
after  carefully  testing  its  truth.” 

Many  animals  and  insects  are  used  as  food  in  different  parts 
of  the  earth,  of  which  the  mere  mention  is  enough  to  create  dis¬ 
gust  and  abhorrence.  The  flesh  of  the  sloth,  lizard,  alligator, 
snake,  monkey,  and  kangaroo,  are  eaten  in  South  America ;  the 
grasshopper  is  roasted  and  eaten  by  the  North  American  Indian, 
and  the  eggs  of  various  insects  are  prepared  and  eaten  by  other 
savages.  The  ancients  ate  the  locust,  and  in  Arabia,  Persia, 
Africa,  and  Syria,  it  is  still  an  article  of  food. 

The  eating  of  human  flesh  is  so  revolting  to  all  the  tastes  and 
instincts  of  civilized  society,  that  it  was  for  a  long  time  consider¬ 
ed  as  having  had  no  existence  except  in  times  of  the  most  straiten¬ 
ed  famine,  or  in  exhibitions  of  demoniac  revenge.  The  Anthro¬ 
pophagi  were  regarded  as  fabulous  as  the  Centaurs.  The  dis¬ 
coveries- of  modern  navigators  and  travellers  have,  however,  chang¬ 
ed  this  opinion.  Famine  or  revenge  undoubtedly  first  induced 


266  DINNER. 

men  to  such  horrid  food,  hut  the  evidence  is  overwhelming  that 
what  was  begun  in  madness,  was  continued  afterward  as  a  plea¬ 
sure.  The  bodies  of  the  victims  sacrificed  by  the  Mexicans  before 
the  Spanish  Conquest  were  eagerly  devoured.  The  inhabitants 
of  the  Pacific  Isles,  regarded  “man’s  meat”  as  so  delicious,  that 
they  sometimes  sent  small  pieces  of  it,  well  roasted,  and  wrapped 
in  leaves,  to  their  distant  friends  as  presents  of  love.  Southey, 
in  his  history  of  Brazil,  relates  the  following  story.  Soon  after 
the  conquest  of  that  country  by  the  Portuguese,  a  Jesuit  converted 
(as  he  supposed)  an  aged  native  woman  to  the  religion  of  the 
cross.  He  baptized  her,  catechized  and  instructed  her ;  at  last 
she  sickened,  and  was  at  the  point  of  death,  and  the  good  man 
inquired  what  he  could  do  to  help  her.  “Mother,”  said  he,  “if 
I  were  to  get  you  a  little  sugar  now,  or  a  mouthful  of  some  of  our 
nice  things  which  we  get  from  beyond  the  sea,  do  you  think  you 
could  eat  it?”  “Ah,  my  son,”  replied  the  old  woman,  “my 
stomach  goes  against  every  thing ;  there  is  but  one  thing  which 
I  think  I  could  touch ;  if  I  had  the  hand  of  a  little  Tapua  boy, 
I  think  I  could  pick  the  little  bones  ;  but  woe  is  me !  there  is  no 
one  to  go  out  and  shoot  one  for  me.” 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS. 

CORONATION  FEAST  FOR  HENRY  THE  FIFTH’S  QUEEN. 

“  After  the  coronation  was  ended,  Queen  Katherine  was  con¬ 
veyed  into  the  great  hall  of  Westminster,  and  there  sat  at  dinner. 

“  Upon  her  right  hand  sat,  at  the  end  of  the  table,  the  Arch¬ 
bishop  of  Canterbury  and  Cardinal  Beaufort.  Upon  the  left  hand 
of  the  queen  sat  James  I.,  captive  king  of  Scotland,  under  his 
canopy,  who  was  served  with  messes  in  covered  silver  dishes. 

“  The  Countess  of  Kent  sat  under  the  table,  at  the  queen’s  feet, 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  207 

holding  a  napkin.  The  Earl  of  March,  holding  a  sceptre  in  his 
hand,  kneeled  on  the  steps  of  the  dais  at  the  queen’s  right  side ; 
the  Earl  Marshal,  holding  her  other  sceptre,  knelt  at  her  left. 
The  Duke  of  Gloucester  was  that  day  overseer  of  the  feast,  and 
stood  before  Queen  Katherine  bareheaded.  Sir  Richard  Neville 
was  her  cup-bearer;  Sir  James  Stuart,  server;  the  Lord  Clifford, 
pantler ;  Lord  Grey,  her  naperer ;  and  the  Lord  Audley,  her 
almoner. 

“This  feast  was  all  fish,  for  being  February  24th,  Lent  was 
entered  upon,  and  nothing  of  meat  was  there,  saving  brawn, 
served  with  mustard.  Among  the  fish  dishes  of  the  first  course, 
Fabian  mentions  especially,  dead  eels,  stewed. 

“  The  second  course  of  this  fish  banquet  was  jelly,  colored  with 
columbine  flowers ;  white  pottage,  or  cream  of  almonds ;  bream 
of  the  sea ;  conger  ;  soles  ;  cheven  or  chubb  ;  barbel  with  roach  ; 
smelt,  fried ;  crayfish  or  lobster ;  leche,  damasked  with  the 
king’s  motto,  ‘Une  sans  plus;  ’  lamprey,  fresh  baked  ;  fiampayne, 
flourished  with  a  scutcheon  royal,  and  therein  three  crowns  of 
gold  planted  with  fleurs-de-lis  and  flowers  of  camomile,  all 
wrought  of  confectionery. 

“  The  third  course  was  likewise  of  fish.  A  leche,  (strained 
jelly,)  called  a  white  leche,  flourished  with  hawthorn  leaves  and 
red  liawes ; ,  dates  in  compost ;  mottled  cream  ;  carp ;  turbot ; 
tench ;  perch,  with  gudgeon ;  fresh  sturgeon,  with  wilks ;  por¬ 
poise,  roasted  ;  crevisse  cl’eau  (crab-fish)  ;  prawns,  and  eels  roasted, 
with  lamprey.” 

BANQUET  IN  IIENEY  THE  SEVENTH’S  REIGN  AT  THE  ENTHRONIZA- 
TION  OF  ARCHBISHOP  WARHAM. 

u  The  Archbishop  sat  at  the  middle  of  the  ‘  High  Board  ’ 
alone,  and  the  various  courses  served  to  him  were  not  partaken  of 
by  any  other  of  the  guests,  to  whom  similar  and  abundant  courses 
were  served. 


DINNER. 


268 

“  The  Duke  of  Buckingham,  as  lord  higli  steward  of  the  feast, 
clad  in  scarlet  robes,  bearing  a  white  wand,  bareheaded,  and  with 
an  humble  countenance,  entered  the  hall  on  horseback.  He  was 
followed  by  two  heralds  of  arms  ;  afterwards  came  the  chief  sewer, 
and  after  him  the  dishes  of  the  first  course,  fourteen  in  number, 
and  consisting  solely  of  varieties  of  fish.  While  the  dishes  were 
being  placed  on  the  table,  the  duke  dismounted,  and  stood  on  foot 
before  the  archbishop  ;  then,  with  an  humble  reverence,  he  retired 
to  his  own  apartment,  where  a  magnificent  repast  of  several 
courses  were  served  to  him  alone.  The  dessert  and  ornaments  at 
this  feast  were  very  much  admired,  consisting  of  towers,  castles, 
archbishops,  and  saints,  angels,  prophets,  and  patriarchs,  from 
whose  mouths  proceeded  labels,  impressed  with  Latin  inscrip¬ 
tions.” —  Chron.  of  Fashion. 

CORONATION  DINNER  OF  QUEEN  ANNE,  WIFE  OF  HENRY  TnE 

EIGHTH. 

“  Every  lord  who  owed  services  at  a  coronation  prepared  them 
according  to  his  duty.  The  Duke  of  Suffolk,  as  high  steward, 
was  richly  apparelled,  his  doublet  and  jacket  being  set  with  orient 
pearl,  and  his  courser  trapped  to  the  ground  with  crimson  velvet, 
having  letters  of  beaten  gold  thereon  ;  and  by  his  side  rode  about 
the  hall  the  Lord  William  Howard,  earl  marshal  for  his  brother, 
whose  robe  was  crimson  velvet,  and  the  housings  of  his  stud  pur¬ 
ple  velvet,  with  white  lions  on  it,  cut  out  in  white  satin  and  em¬ 
broidered.  The  Earl  of  Essex  was  the  queen’s  carver  ;  the  Earl 
of  Sussex,  her  sewer  ;  the  Earl  of  Arundel,  her  chief  butler ;  on 
whom  twelve  citizens  of  London  did  wait  at  the  cupboard.  The 
Earl  of  Derby  was  her  cup-bearer ;  the  Viscount  Lisle,  her  pant- 
ler  ;  the  Lord  Burgoyne,  chief  larderer  ;  and  the  mayor  of  Oxford 
kept  the  buttery  bar ;  while  Sir  Thomas  Wyatt  acted  for  his 
father  as  chief  ewerer,  and  claimed  the  office  of  pouring  scented 
water  on  the  queen’s  hands. 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  269 

“  When  all  these  functionaries  were  at  their  stations  the 
queen  entered  the  hall  with  her  canopy  borne  over  her ;  she 
washed  and  sat  down  to  table,  under  the  canopy  of  state  ;  on  the 
right  side  of  her  chair  stood  the  Countess  of  Oxford,  and  on  the 
left  stood  the  Countess  of  Worcester,  all  the  dinner-time,  and 
they  often  held  a  fine  cloth  before  the  queen’s  face,  ‘  whenever  she 
listed  to  spit  or  do  otherwise  at  her  pleasure,’  an  extraordinary 
office,  certainly,  but  first  appointed  at  an  earlier  and  less  refined 
era  than  even  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  And  under  the  table 
went  two  gentlewomen,  and  sat  at  the  queen’s  feet  during  the 
dinner.  When  the  queen  and  all  these  attendants  had  taken  their 
places,  the  Duke  of  Suffolk  and  Lord  William  Howard  rode  into 
the  hall  on  horseback,  escorting  the  sewer  and  the  Knights  of  the 
Bath,  each  bearing  a  dish  of  the  first  course  for  the  queen's  table, 
twenty-seven  dishes,  besides  1  subtleties  of  ships  made  of  colored 
wax,  marvellous  and  gorgeous  to  behold.’  While  this  service  Avas 
done,  the  trumpeters  standing  at  the  windoAv,  at  the  nethermost 
end  of  the  hall,  played  melodiously. 

“  The  king  took  no  part  in  all  this  grand  ceremonial,  but  re¬ 
mained  in  the  cloister  of  St.  Stephen’s,  where  was  a  little  closet, 
in  which  he  stood  privately  with  several  ambassadors,  beholding 
all  the  service  it  was  his  pleasure  should  be  offered  to  his  new 
queen. 

“  While  the  dinner  was  proceeding,  the  Duke  of  Suffolk  and 
Lord  William  Howard  rode  up  and  down  the  hall  cheering  the 
lords  and  ladies,  and  the  lord  mayor,  and  his  brethren  ;  and  when 
these  had  dined,  they  commanded  them  to  stand  still  in  their 
places  or  on  their  forms,  till  the  queen  had  washed.  Then  she 
arose  and  stood  in  the  midst  of  the  hall,  to  Avhom  the  Earl  of 
Sussex  brought  a  goodly  spice-plate,  and  served  her  Avith  comfits. 
After  him  the  lord  mayor  brought  a  standing  cup  of  gold  set  in  a 
cup  of  assay,  and  after  she  had  drunk,  she  gave  him  the  cup  ac¬ 
cording  to  the  claims  of  the  city,  thanking  him  and  his  brethren 


270  DINNER. 

for  their  pains.  Then  she  went  under  her  canopy  borne  over  her 
to  the  door  of  her  chamber,  where  she  turned  about,  and  gave  the 
canopy,  with  the  golden  bells  and  all,  to  the  barons  of  the  cinque 
ports,  according  to  their  claim,  with  great  thanks  for  their  ser¬ 
vice.” — Miss  Strickland’s  Anne  Boleyn. 

MONTEZUMA  AT  TABLE. 

“  About  three  hundred  kinds  of  dishes  were  served  up  for 
Montezuma’s  dinner  ;  and  underneath  each  of  them  were 
placed  pans  of  porcelain  filled  with  fire,  to  keep  them  warm. 
Three  hundred  dishes  of  various  kinds  were  served  up  for  him 
alone  ;  and  above  one  thousand  for  the  persons  in  waiting.  He, 
sometimes,  but  very  seldom,  ordered  the  dinner  himself,  and  de¬ 
sired  that  the  best  dishes,  and  various  kinds  of  birds  should  be 
called  over  to  him.”  Bernal  Diaz,  from  whom  we  quote  this  ac¬ 
count,  insinuates  that  the  flesh  of  young  children  was  “  set  before 
him  as  a  relish.”  But  he  is  obliged  to  admit  that  the  Spaniards 
never  saw  anything  of  the  kind,  though  he  thinks  it  was  on  ac¬ 
count  of  the  great  variety  of  dishes ;  consisting  of  fowls,  turkeys, 
pheasants,  partridges,  quails,  tame  and  wild  geese,  venison, 
musk,  swine,  pigeons,  hares,  rabbits,  and  of  numerous  other  birds 
and  beasts,  besides  various  other  kinds  of  provision. 

“  If  the  weather  was  cold,  a  large  fire  was  made  with  a  kind 
of  charcoal,  made  of  the  bark  of  trees,  which  emitted  no  smoke, 
but  threw  out  a  delicious  perfume ;  and  that  his  majesty  might 
not  suffer  from  the  heat,  a  screen  made  of  gold,  was  placed  be¬ 
tween  him  and  the  fire. 

“  The  chair  on  which  he  sat  was  rather  low,  but  supplied  with 
soft  cushions  and  was  beautifully  carved ;  the  table  was  little 
higher  than  this,  but  perfectly  corresponded  with  his  seat.  It 
was  covered  with  white  cloths.  Four  very  neat  and  pretty  young 
women  held  before  the  monarch  a  species  of  round  pitcher,  filled 
with  water,  to  wash  his  hands  in.  The  water  was  caught  in  other 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  271 

vessels,  and  then  the  young  women  presented  him  with  towels  to 
dry  his  hands.  Two  other  women  brought  him  maize  bread 
baked  with  eggs. 

“Before,  however,  Montezuma  began  his  dinner,  a  kind  of 
wooden  screen,  strongly  gilt,  was  placed  before  him,  that  no  one 
might  see  him  while  eating ,  and  the  young  women  stood  at  a  dis¬ 
tance.  Next  four  elderly  men,  of  high  rank,  were  admitted  to  his 
table ;  sometimes  he  would  offer  them  a  plate  of  some  of*  his 
v kinds,  which  they  ate  standing,  in  the  deepest  veneration,  though 
without  daring  to  look  him  full  in  the  face. 

“  The  dishes  in  which  the  dinner  was  served  up,  were  of  varie¬ 
gated  and  black  porcelain,  made  at  Ckolulla.  While  the  monarch 
was  at  table,  his  courtiers,  and  those  who  were  in  waiting  in  the 
halls  adjoining,  had  to  maintain  strict  silence.  After  the  hot 
dishes  had  been  removed,  every  kind  of  fruit  which  the  country 
produced  was  set  on  the  table  ;  of  which,  however,  Montezuma 
ate  but  little.  Every  now  and  then  a  golden  pitcher  was  handed 
to  him,  filled  with  a  kind  of  liquor  made  from  the  cacao,  of  a  very 
exciting  nature.” 

THE  ENTERTAINMENT  GIVEN  BY  THE  EARL  OF  ATHOL  TO  JAMES  V. 

“  There  were  all  kinds  of  drink,  as  ale,  beer,  wine,  both  white 
and  claret,  malvasy,  muskadel,  hippocras,  and  aquavitse.  Fur¬ 
ther,  there  was  of  meats,  wheatbread,  mainbread,  and  ginger¬ 
bread,  with  fleshes,  beef,  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  venison,  goose,  grice, 
capon,  coney,  cran,  swan,  partridge,  plover,  duck,  drake,  brissel- 
eock  and  pawnies,  blackcock  and  muir  fowl,  capercoilies  ;  and  also 
the  tanks  that  were  round  about  the  palace  were  full  of  all  deli¬ 
cate  fishes,  as  salmonds,  trouts,  pearches,  pikes,  eels,  and  all  other 
kind  of  delicate  fishes  that  could  be  gotten  in  fresh  waters ;  and 
all  ready  for  the  banquet.  Syne  were  there  proper  stewards,  cun¬ 
ning  baxters,  excellent  cooks  and  pottingars,  with  confections  and 
drugs  for  their  desserts ;  and  the  halls  and  chambers  were  pre- 


272  DINNER. 

pared  with  costly  bedding,  vessels,  and  napry  according  for  a 
king ;  so  that  be  wanted  none  of  bis  orders  more  than  be  bad 
been  at  borne  in  bis  own  palace.  Tbe  king  remained  in  this  wil 
derness  tbe  space  of  three  days  and  three  nights,  and  bis  com¬ 
pany.  I  beard  men  say  it  cost  tbe  Earl  of  Athol  every  day,  in 
expenses,  a  thousand  pounds. 

“  The  ambassador  of  tbe  Pope  seeing  this  banquet  and 
triumph  which  was  made  in  a  wilderness,  where  there  was  no 
town  near  by  twenty  miles,  thought  it  a  great  marvel  that  such 
a  thing  should  be  in  Scotland,  and  that  there  should  be  such  hon¬ 
esty  and  policy  in  it,  especially  in  the  Highland,  where  there  was 
but  wood  and  -wilderness.  But  most  of  all,  this  ambassador  mar¬ 
velled  to  see,  when  the  king  departed  and  all  his  men  took  their 
leave,  the  Highlandmen  set  all  this  place  in  a  fire,  that  the  king 
and  ambassador  might  see  it.  Then  the  ambassador  said  to  the 
king,  ‘  I  marvel,  sir,  that  you  should  thole  yon  fair  place  to  be 
burnt,  that  your  Grace  has  been  so  wTell  lodged  in ;  ’  then  the 
king  answered  and  said,  ‘  It  is  the  use  of  our  Highlandmen, 
though  they  be  never  so  well  lodged,  to  burn  their  lodging 
when  they  depart/  ” — Pitscotie. 

QUEEN  ELIZABETH. 

One  of  the  most  magnificent  feasts  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  time, 
was  that  given  by  the  Earl  of  Leicester  at  Utrecht ,  during  his 
government  of  the  Low  Countries,  on  St.  George’s  Day,  1586. 
A  cloth  and  table  were  laid  for  her,  as  if  she  were  in  presence. 
“  Then  began  the  trumpets  to  sound  in  the  service,  which  was 
most  prince-like  and  abundant, — served  on  the  knee,  carved  and 
tasted,  to  her  majesty’s  trencher ;  the  side-tables  being  furnished 
all  in  silver  plate  and  attended  on  by  gentlemen.  Sundry  sorts 
of  musickes  continued  the  entring  of  the  first  course;  which 
done  and  avoyded,  the  trumpets  sounded  in  for  the  second,  which 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  273 

was  all  baked  meats  of  beasts  and  fowls ;  the  beasts,  as  lions, 
dragons,  leopards,  and  such  like,  bearing  armes  ;  and  the  fowls  as 
peacocks,  swans,  pheasants,  turkey  cocks,  and  others,  in  their 
natural  feathers,  spread  in  their  greatest  pride;  which  sight  was 
both  rare  and  magnificent.  This  servdce  being  placed  on  her  maj¬ 
esty’s  board,  the  beasts  on  the  one  side,  and  the  fowls  on  the  other, 
the  lion  lying  couchant  at  her  highness’s  trencher,  the  ushers 
cryed  £  A  Hall.’  ” 

It  is  probable  that  these  lions,  dragons,  and  leopards,  were 
miniature  resemblances  of  these  animals  formed  by  the  skill  of 
the  cook,  from  other  and  more  common  viands. 

It  is  related  of  the  Queen,  that  in  summer  time  when  she  was 
hungry,  she  would  eat  something  that  was  light  of  digestion,  with 
the  window  open  to  admit  the  gentle  breezes  from  the  gardens  or 
pleasant  hills.  Sometimes  she  would  do  this  alone,  but  oftener 
with  the  favored  few  whose  company  she  preferred.  She  ate  but 
little,  and  in  her  declining  life  became  still  more  abstemious. 

She  seldom  drank  anything  but  common  beer,  fearing  the  use  of 
wine,  lest  it  should  cloud  her  faculties. 

When  she  dined  in  public,  she  ordered  her  table  to  be 
served  with  the  greatest  magnificence ;  the  side-tables  were  also 
adorned  with  costly  plate,  for  she  took  pride  in  thus  displaying 
her  treasures,  especially  when  she  entertained  the  foreign  ambas¬ 
sadors.  Songs  and  music  were  heard  during  the  banquet. 

“  Great  hospitality  Avas  exercised  in  the  palace,  which  no 
stranger  Avho  had  ostensible  business  there,  from  the  noble  to  the  i 
peasant,  e\rer  visited,  it  is  said,  Avithout  being  invited  to  either 
one  table  or  the  other,  according  to  his  degree. 

“  At  the  entertainment  at  Kenilworth,  the  chief  table  Avas 
adorned  by  a  “  salt,”  ship-fashion,  made  of  mother-of-pearl,  gar¬ 
nished  with  many  designs.  Another  salt  Avas  fashioned  of  silver  I 
in  the  form  of  a  swan  in  full  sail.  A  silver  St.  George  mounted 
and  equipped  Avas  also  on  the  table ;  the  horse’s  tail  held  a  case 


DINNER. 


274 

of  knives,  while  the  breast  of  the  dragon  presented  a  similar  ac¬ 
commodation  for  oyster  knives.” — Scott. 

The  Queen’s  dinners  on  ordinary  occasions  consisted  of  two 
courses ;  beef,  mutton,  veal,  swan  or  goose,  capons,  rabbits,  lamb 
or  kid,  herons  or  pheasants,  cocks  or  godwits,  chickens,  pigeons, 
larks,  eggs,  and  pastry,  with  fine  wlieaten  bread,  ale,  beer,  and 
wine. 

Her  fish-dinners  consisted  of  two  courses;  1st,  ling,  pike, 
salmon,  haddock,  whitings,  gurnards,  tenches,  and  birts ;  2d, 
sturgeon,  carp,  eels,  lampreys,  and  conger,  chines  of  salmon, 
perches,  and  cruez,  -with  eggs,  cream  and  butter,  etc.  In  1576, 
she  wrote  with  her  own  hand  the  foregoing  account  of  her  daily 
diet.  The  only  “made  dishes”  she  mentioned,  were,  “custcrd, 
friant,  and  fritters.” 

DINNER  OF  JAMES  THE  FIRST  TO  A  SPANISH  AMBASSADOR. 

“  The  Audience  chamber  had  been  beautifully  fitted  up  for 
the  occasion.  On  each  side  of  the  table,  was  a  railing,  to  insure 
the  respectful  distance  of  the  people.  The  dishes  were  brought 
in  by  gentlemen  of  the  household,  preceded  by  the  lord  chamber- 
lain,  each  making  four  or  five  obeisances  before  they  placed  them 
on  the  table.  Grace  being  said,  their  majesties  washed  their 
hands  with  water  from  the  same  ewer,  the  towels  being  presented 
by  high  officers  of  the  Crown.  The  first  thing  the  king  did,  was 
to  send  a  melon  and  some  oranges,  on  a  green  branch  to  the 
Ambassador,  observing,  that  they  were  the  fruit  of  Spain,  trans¬ 
planted  to  England.  The  duke  rose,  drank  to  the  king,  out  of 
the  lid  of  a  beautiful  agate  cup,  set  with  diamonds  and  rubies. 
Later  in  the  entertainment,  the  duke  drank  to  the  queen,  out  of 
the  lid  of  a  beautiful  dragon-shape  vessel  of  crystal  set  in  gold. 

“  The  dinner  lasted  about  three  hours  ;  at  the  conclusion,  the 
cloth  was  removed,  and  the  table  lowered,  when  their  majesties, 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  275 

according  to  ancient  custom,  placed  themselves  upon  it  to  wash 
their  hands.” 

The  ewerer  was  an  officer  of  great  importance  at  the  tables  of 
kings,  as  may  be  perceived  from  the  above  account ;  it  was  his 
office  to  bring  water  and  towels  to  the  king,  both  before  and  after 
each  meal.  The  necessity  of  such  an  officer  may  be  better  seen, 
when  we  recollect  that  forks  were  not  in  general  use,  and  that 
most  of  the  food  passed  through  the  fingers. 

LOUIS  FOURTEENTH. 

The  king’s  breakfast  was  always  a  frugal  repast,  consisting  of 
bread  and  wine.  He  usually  dined  an  petit  convert ,  that  is,  alone, 
in  his  own  chamber,  at  which  meal  three  courses  and  a  dessert 
were  served,  for  he  was  constitutionally  a  great  eater.  The  grands 
converts  were  very  rare,  and  were  generally  held  at  Fontainebleau 
upon  occasions  of  great  ceremony.  At  ten  o’clock  he  supped, 
when,  at  his  desire,  the  princes  and  princesses  of  France  sat  down 
at  the  table  with  him ;  six  noblemen  then  stationed  themselves 
at  each  end  of  the  table,  to  try  the  meats  and  wait  upon  the  king, 
while  a  numerous  circle  of  courtiers  and  ladies  stood  around. 

The  king  always  had  a  collation,  or  in  case ,  as  it  was  called, 
prepared  for  the  night,  in  case  he  should  require  refreshments. 
It  generally  consisted  of  a  bowl  of  soup,  a  cold  roasted  chicken, 
bread,  wine,  and  water ;  and  an  enamelled  drinking  cup. 

Louis  XIV.  seldom  permitted  any  one  but  ladies  to  enter  his 
coach,  which  was  always  stored  with  fruits,  meats,  and  pastry  ;  and 
before  the  party  were  a  league  upon  their  way,  he  invariably  pro¬ 
posed  that  they  should  partake  of  some  refreshment.  Although 
he  never  touched  any  food  between  his  regular  repasts,  it  afforded 
him  great  amusement  to  see  others  eat ;  and  in  order  not  to  incur 
his  displeasure,  it  was  necessary  to  devour  every  thing  he  offered, 
a  necessity  as  imperative  upon  his  own  daughters  and  daughters- 
in-law,  as  upon  the  ladies  of  his  court. 

ii  — 


276  DINNER. 


LOUIS  FOURTEENTH'S  FEAST. 

“  There  was  a  feast  held  at  Versailles,  in  the  year  1G64,  that 
was  very  magnificent  and  widely  famed.  This  feast,  consisting 
of  a  variety  of  entertainments,  the  king  attended  with  a  court  of 
six  hundred  persons,  whose  entire  expenses,  including  those  of 
all  their  attendants,  he  defrayed.  The  cavalcade  was  followed  by 
a  gilded  chariot,  of  immense  size,  representing  the  chariot  of  the 
sun.  The  golden,  the  silver,  the  brazen,  and  the  iron  ages,  with 
the  celestial  signs,  the  seasons,  and  hours,  followed  the  chariot 
on  foot :  every  thing  was  in  character ;  shepherds  brought  in 
their  hands  pieces  of  the  palisades,  which  they  placed  regularly 
to  the  sound  of  trumpets,  to  which,  by  intervals,  succeeded  the 
violins  and  other  instruments.  Some  persons,  who  followed  the 
chariot  of  Apollo,  came  forward  and  repeated  to  the  queen  verses 
alluding  to  the  place,  the  persons,  and  the  time.  The  races  being 
finished,  and  the  day  at  an  end,  four  thousand  large  flambeaux 
illuminated  the  space  in  which  the  feast  was  prepared. 

“  The  tables  were  served  by  two  hundred  persons,  representing 
the  Seasons,  the  Fauns,  the  Sylvan s,  and  Dryads,  with  shepherds, 
reapers,  and  grape-gatherers.  Pan  and  Diana  appeared  upon  a 
moving  mountain,  and  descended  to  place  upon  the  tables  the 
greatest  rarities  the  fields  and  forests  produced.  In  a  semicircle, 
behind  these  tables,  was  raised  all  at  once  a  theatre  covered  with 
musicians ;  the  arcades  which  encompassed  the  tables,  and  the 
theatre,  were  adorned  with  five  hundred  branches  of  green  and 
silver,  filled  with  wax  candles,  and  the  vast  enclosure  was  encom 
passed  with  a  gilt  balustrade.  These  feasts,  unparalleled  even 
in  romance,  lasted  seven  days.” — Chron.  of  Fashion. 

A  DINNER  AT  AUTEUIL  TnE  nOME  OF  MOLlfiEE. 

“One  day,  Chapelle,  a  schoolfellow,  arrived  at  Auteuil  with 
some  ions  vivans.  ‘We  are  coming  to  dine  with  you!’  cried 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  277 

Chapelle,  as  soon  as  lie  perceived  him.  c  You  are  welcome,’ 
said  Moliere.  He  had  a  good  dinner  prepared,  and  prayed  Cha¬ 
pelle  to  do  the  honors  of  his  house,  for,  as  to  himself,  feeling 
unwell,  he  retired  after  having  merely  taken  a  cup  of  milk.  The 
beginning  of  the  dinner  was  only  merry  ;  but  during  the  dessert 
the  libations,  not  of  milk,  succeeded  each  other  in  great  number, 
and  soon  the  reason  of  the  guests  began  ‘a  hattre  la  cam- 
pagne.’ 

“  At  first  it  was  a  tumultuous  medley  of  follies  ;  but  one  grave 
word  having  by  chance  found  its  way  there,  the  jolly  fellows 
seized  upon  it,  and  behold!  the  conversation  takes  a  serious 
strain.  ‘Life!’  ‘What  is  life?’  ‘What  a  sad  thing  is  life  !’ 

‘  Away  with  life !  ’  ‘  Gentlemen,  a  luminous  idea  strikes  me,’  cried 
one  of  the  guests  ;  ‘  we  all  agree  that  life  is  a  stupid  thing;  why 
do  we  not  rid  ourselves  of  it  ?  What  if  we  were  to  go  to  the 
river  and  drown  ourselves  !  Would  it  not  be  wonderfully  glorious  ?  ’ 

“  ‘  Bravo  !  bravo !  approved !  ’  exclaimed  all ;  ‘  let  us  go  and 
drown  ourselves.’ 

“They  tumultuously  vacate  the  dining-room,  and  hasten  to  the 
river.  The  noise  attracts  a  few  inhabitants  of  the  village  ;  they 
make  an  attempt  to  prevent  them  from  executing  their  project ; 
the  champaigne  drinkers  become  furious  ;  they  draw  their  swords 
and  begin  to  pursue,  but  not  with  the  firmest  steps,  their  good- 
hearted  would-be  deliverers,  who  fly  and  take  refuge  in  Moliere’ s 
house.  The  tremendous  noise  awakes  him ;  he  gets  up.  Cha¬ 
pelle  and  his  companions  arrive,  incensed  with  fury,  and  crying, 
‘Villains!  rascals  !•  scamps !  impertinents  !  to  prevent  gentle¬ 
men  from  drowning  themselves !  ’ 

“  Moliere,  who  perceives  that  the  wine  is  still  acting  on  them 
with  all  its  strength,  severely  scolds  the  peasants,  and  orders 
them  to  retire.  Then  addressing  his  guests,  ‘You  want  to  drown 
yourselves,  gentlemen  ;  you  are  right ;  it  is  a  very  good  idea.  I 
have,  however,  greatly  to  complain  of  you.  I  thought  we  were 


DINNER. 


278 

better  friends.  What !  you  nobly  resolve  to  give  up  tbe  game, 
and  you  go  away  without  me  %  Ah  !  it  is  very  wrong.’ 

“  But  suddenly  stopping ;  ‘  My  friends,  a  reflection  strikes  me  ; 
is  this  a  suitable  hour  for  so  fine  and  glorious  an  action  ?  To¬ 
morrow,  in  Paris,  they  would  say  that  we  have  chosen  night  from 
motives  of  timidity  ;  they  would  perhaps  say  that  it  was  a  reso¬ 
lution  of  people  who  had  just  left  the  table.  Will  it  not  be  much 
better,  in  order  to  have  all  the  fame  we  deserve,  to  drown  our¬ 
selves  to-morrow  morning  in  sober  earnest,  and  in  broad  daylight  ? 
Our  glory  will  then  be  immortal !  ’ 

“  ‘  Why,  he  is  right ! — he  is  always  right — ce  diable  de  Mo- 
li^re !  ’ 

“  ‘  Now,  my  comrades,  go  to  bed ;  to-morrow  the  great  feat.’ 

“  ‘  Yes,  to-morrow, — to-morrow.’ 

“  Next  morning  at  ten  o’clock  the  breakfast-bell  was  heard. 
The  boon  companions  were  awakened  from  a  very  sound  sleep. 
The  fumes  of  the  wine  had  subsided,  and  they  felt  themselves 
more  disposed  to  eat  a  hearty  breakfast  than  to  take  their  last 
bath  in  the  Seine.” 

DINNER  AT  THE  CORONATION  OF  CHARLES  II.— 1660. 

“  Into  Westminster  Hall  I  got,  where  it  was  very  fine  with 
hangings  and  scaffolds  one  upon  another,  full  of  brave  ladies ; 
and  my  wife  in  one  little  one,  on  the  right  hand.  Here  I  staid 
walking  up  and  down,  and  at  last  upon  one  of  the  side  stalls  I 
stood,  and  saw  the  King  come  in  with  his  crown  on,  and  his 
sceptre  in  his  hand,  under  a  canopy.  After  a  long  time  he  got 
up  to  the  further  end,  and  all  set  themselves  down  at  their  sev¬ 
eral  tables ;  and  that  was  also  a  brave  sight ;  and  the  King’s  first 
course  carried  up  by  the  Knights  of  the  Bath.  And  many  fine 
ceremonies  there  were  of  the  herald’s  leading  up  people  before 
him  and  bowing ;  and  my  Lord  of  Albemarle’s  going  to  the 
kitchen,  and  eating  a  bit  of  the  first  dish  that  was  to  go  to  the 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  279 

King’s  table.  But  above  all,  was  the  coming  of  the  lords,  Nor 
thumberland,  and  Suffolk,  and  the  Duke  of  Ormond,  before  the 
courses  on  horseback,  and  staying  so  all  dinner-time,  and  at  last 
bringing  up  the  King’s  champion,  all  in  armour  on  horseback, 
with  his  spear  and  target  carried  before  him.  And  a  herald  pro¬ 
claims  c  That  if  any  dare  deny  Charles  Stewart  to  be  lawful  King 
of  England,  here  was  a  champion  that  would  fight  with  him :  ’ 
and  with  these  words  the  champion  flings  down  his  gauntlet,  and 
all  this  he  do  three  times  in  his  going  up  to  the  King’s  table. 
To  which  when  he  is  come,  the  King  drinks  to  him  and  then  sends 
him  the  cup,  which  is  of  gold,  and  he  drinks  it  off,  and  then  rides 
back  again  with  the  cup  in  his  hand.  I  went  from  table  to  table 
to  see  the  bishops  and  all  others  at  their  dinner,  and  was  infinite¬ 
ly  pleased  with  it.  And  at  the  Lords’  table  I  met  with  William 
Howe,  and  he  spoke  to  my  lord  for  me,  and  he  did  give  him  four 
rabbits  and  a  pullet,  and  so  Mr.  Creed  and  I  got  Mr.  Minshell  to 
give  us  some  bread,  and  so  we  at  a  stall  eat  it,  as  everybody  else 
did  what  they  could  get.  I  took  a  great  deal  of  pleasure  to  go 
up  and  down,  and  look  upon  the  ladies,  and  to  hear  the  music  of 
all  sorts,  but  above  all  the  twenty- four  violins.  About  six  at  night 
they  had  dined,  and  I  went  up  to  my  wife. 

“  Thus  did  the  day  end  with  joy  everywhere.” — Pepys. 

SIR  RICHARD  STEELE  AT  DINNER. 

“  Sir  Richard  Steele  having  one  day  invited  to  his  house  a  great 
number  of  persons  of  the  first  quality,  they  were  surprised  at  the 
number  of  liveries  which  surrounded  the  table ;  and  after  dinner, 
when  wine  and  mirth  had  set  them  free  from  the  observation  of 
rigid  ceremony,  one  of  them  inquired  of  Sir  Richard,  how  such  an 
expensive  train  of  domestics  could  be  consistent  with  his  fortune. 
Sir  Richard  very  frankly  confessed  that  they  were  fellows  of  whom 
he  would  very  willingly  be  rid ;  and  being  asked  why  he  did  not  dis¬ 
charge  them,  declared  that  they  were  bailiffs  who  had  introduced 


- ? - 

280  DINNER. 

themselves  with  an  execution,  and  whom,  since  he  could  not  send 
them  away,  he  had  thought  it  convenient  to  embellish  with  livery, 
that  they  might  do  him  credit  while  they  stayed. 

“  His  friends  were  diverted  with  the  expedient,  and  by  pay¬ 
ing  the  debt  discharged  their  attendants,  having  obliged  Sir 
Eichard  to  promise  that  they  should  never  again  find  him  graced 
with  a  retinue  of  the  same  kind.” — -Dr.  Johnson. 

• 

DINNER  AT  MR.  SHERIDAN'S  ON  “SWILLED  MUTTON.” 

“We  have  an  amusing  idea  given  us  of  the  effect  which  a  re¬ 
suscitation  of  real  ancient  cookery  would  produce,  in  the  Me¬ 
moirs  of  Mrs.  Sheridan,  where  we  find  that  her  husband  was  pre¬ 
vailed  on  by  some  friends  to  give  them  ‘  swilled  mutton  ’  as  a 
Specimen  of  the  old  Irish  taste  in  hospitality,  and  of  the  greatest 
perfection  in  cookery. 

“  This  swilled  mutton  was  hailed  as  a  noble  relic  of  former 
times.  It  consisted  of  a  sheep  roasted  whole,  in  the  inside  of 
which  was  insinuated  a  lamb  ;  the  lamb  was  again  stuffed  with  a 
hare  and  rabbits.  There  was  also  a  goose ,  the  body  of  which 
was  stuffed  with  a  duck,  and  other  delicacies,  of  a  similar  de¬ 
scription. 

“  The  floor  of  the  dining-room  was  strewed  with  rushes. 
When  every  one  was  more  than  satisfied,  the  table  was  replen¬ 
ished  with  the  choicest  viands  of  the  present  day ;  those  who 
were  in  the  secret  made  a  luxurious  meal,  and  those  who  had, 
perforce,  satisfied  their  appetites  with  *  swilled  mutton,’  could  only 
regret  the  circumstance.” — Life  of  Mrs.  Sheridan. 

MADAME  DE  STAEL. 

“  Plow  quick,  intellectual,  witty,  and  amiable,  Madame  de 
Stael  was,  is  well  known  to  the  world.  She  was  by  no  means 
handsome,  but  the  talent  of  ruling  the  most  diverse  characters 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  281 

and  binding  them  in  social  harmony,  she  possessed  in  the  highest 
degree.  Her  great  talent  consisted  in  the  power  of  saying  some¬ 
thing  striking  and  piquant  on  every  subject  that  was  presented 
to  her  notice.  This  talent  made  her  a  most  delightful  companion. 
Wherever  she  appeared,  notwithstanding  the  presence  of  young 
and  beautiful  women,  she  attracted  all  the  men  of  any  head  or 
heart  within  her  circle.  When,  in  addition  to  her  intellectual 
fascinations,  it  is  remembered  that  she  was  Avealthy,  extremely 
hospitable ,  and  daily  gave  sumptuous  dinners ,  it  will  not  perhaps 
excite  so  much  Avonder,  that,  like  a  queen,  or  a  fairy  in  her  magic 
hall,  she  dreAV  men  around  her,  and  ruled  them !  At  table  her 
servant  always  placed  a  small  tAvig  of  evergreen,  of  floAvers,  or 
floAvering  shrub,  beside  the  knife  and  fork,  which  she  held  con¬ 
stantly  in  her  hand,  and  played  Avith  or  waved  during  conversa¬ 
tion,  as  if  symbolic  of  her  dominion  over  society.” — Oehlensciila- 
ger’s  Autobiography. 

THE  EMPEROR  NAPOLEON  AND  THE  EMPRESS  JOSEPHINE  AT  DINNER. 

“Dinner  was  appointed  at  six  o’clock.  It  Avas,  hoAvever, 
served  Avhen  Napoleon  Avas  ready  to  receive  it.  Not  unfrequently, 
when  much  engrossed  Avith  business,  he  Avould  postpone  the  hour 
till  nine,  or  even  ten  o’clock.  The  cook,  during  all  this  time, 
Avould  be  preparing  fresh  viands,  that  a  hot  dinner  might  be 
ready  at  a  moment’s  Avarning.  A  chicken,  for  instance,  Avas  put 
upon  the  spit  every  fifteen  minutes.  Napoleon  and  Josephine  al¬ 
ways  dined  together,  sometimes  alone,  but  more  frequently  Avith 
a  few  invited  guests.  There  Avas  a  Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies, 
Avho,  on  such  occasions,  informed  the  Grand  Marshal  of  the  neces¬ 
sary  arrangements,  and  of  the  seat  each  guest  Avas  to  occupy. 
Occasionally,  the  Emperor  and  Empress  dined  in  state.  Eich 
drapery  canopied  the  table,  Avhich  Avas  placed  upon  a  platform 
slightly  elevated,  Avith  tAvo  arm-chairs  of  gorgeous  Avorkmanship, 
one  for  Napoleon,  and  the  other,  upon  his  left,  for  Josephine. 


282  DINNER. 

Other  tables  were  placed  upon  the  floor  of  the  same  room,  for  il¬ 
lustrious  guests.  The  Grand  Marshal  announced  to  the  Em¬ 
peror  when  the  preparations  Avere  completed.  A  gorgeous  pro¬ 
cession  of  pages,  marshals,  equerries,  and  chamberlains  accompa¬ 
nied  the  Emperor  and  Empress  into  the  hall.  Pages  and  stew¬ 
ards  performed  the  subordinate  parts  of  the  service  at  table,  in 
bringing  and  removing  dishes  ;  while  noblemen,  of  the  highest 
rank,  ministered  to  the  immediate  wants  of  their  Majesties. 
Those  who  sat  at  the  surrounding  tables,  were  served  by  servants 
in  livery.” — Abbott’s  Josephine. 

DINNERS  OF  TIIE  PRINCE  DE  TALLEYRAND. 

Much  has  been  said  of  Talleyrand’s  table,  for  his  hospitality 
was  enjoyed  by  all  the  illustrious  men  of  Europe.  The  culinary 
art  ivas  practised  in  his  house  in  its  greatest  perfection  ;  and 
“  here  was  gathered  every  production  of  every  country  and  climate, 
either  esteemed  delicious,  rare,  or  curious ; — for  the  agents  of  his 
kitchens  had  carte  blanche  to  purchase  whatever  money  could 
procure. 

“  Regular  couriers  brought  fresh  sturgeons  from  the  Mediter¬ 
ranean,  carps  from  the  Rhine,  and  turbots  from  the  Channels ; 
whilst  other  couriers  furnished  salmon  from  Holland,  venison 
from  Germany,  game  from  Italy,  pies  from  Perigord,  fruits  from 
Switzerland,  and  mutton  from  the  Ardennes.  Wine  merchants 
Avere  employed  to  select  the  finest  Avines  and  choicest  liquors. 
His  own  hot-houses  brought  forth  the  most  unseasonable  but  best- 
flavored  fruits,  which  Avere  also  obtained  in  the  greatest  variety 
and  of  the  most  delicious  quality,  from  Italy,  Sicily,  the  Alps, — 
indeed  Avherever  they  could  be  found,  for  his  agents  left  no  place 
unsearched.  The  fame  of  his  hospitality  spread  throughout  all 
Europe,  and  the  distinguished  foreigners  who  visited  the  Tuileries, 
considered  it  an  important  event  to  dine  at  the  house  of  the 
Prince  de  Talleyrand. 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  283 

“  The  prince,  in  his  own  person,  pursued  a  regime  which  pre¬ 
served  his  health  and  mental  powers  vigorous  to  old  age.  In  the 
morning,  he  partook  sparingly  of  food,  but  before  commencing 
upon  business,  drank  two  or  three  cups  of  camomile.  For  a  table 
of  ten  or  twelve  covers  at  his  house,  upon  ordinary  occasions, 
was  prepared  two  potages ,  two  releves,  one  of  which  was  fish,  four 
entrees,  two  rots,  four  entremets  and  the  dessert.  The  prince  ate 
heartily  of  soup,  of  fish,  of  one  entree ,  which  Avas  usually  of  veal, 
or  of  mutton-chop  broiled,  or  a  little  of  chicken.  Sometimes  he 
partook  of  the  roast ;  his  entremets  Avere  habitually  spinach,  or 
cardons,  eggs  or  early  vegetables  ;  and  in  sweet  entremets,  apples 
or  pears  gratinees.  Sometimes  he  tasted  the  creme  au  cafe,  but 
rarely  touched  the  dessert.  He  drank  only  excellent  Bordeaux 
Avine  lightly  tempered  with  Avater,  and  a  little  of  Xeres ;  at 
the  dessert,  also,  a  small  glass  of  old  Malaga.  After  dinner  in 
the  saloon,  his  maitre-d’hotel  presented  a  large  cup  to  him,  in 
Avhich  the  prince  dropped  a  lump  of  sugar  and  poured  his  coffee 
for  himself. 

“  He  Avent  yearly  to  the  Avaters  of  Bourbon-1’ Archambault, 
which  he  found  to  be  of  service  to  him,  and  from  thence  to  his 
magnificent  chateau  at  Valencay,  Avhere  his  elegant  table  Avas 
open  to  all  the  most  distinguished  men  of  France  and  Europe. 
It  Avas  not  uncommon  to  meet  there  thirty  eminent  persons.” 

A  SPECIMEN  OF  GENERAL  AVASHINGTON’S  DINNERS  IN  CAMP. 

The  folloAving  pleasant  letter  Avas  Avritten  by  Gen.  Washing¬ 
ton  to  Dr.  Cochrane,  a  surgeon-general  in  the  Continental  army  ; 
it  is  dated  West  Point,  August  16,  1779  : 

“  Dear  Doctor — I  have  asked  Mrs.  Cochrane  and  Mrs.  Living¬ 
ston  to  dine  with  me  to-morrow ;  but  am  I  not  in  honor  bound 
to  apprise  them  of  their  fare  ?  As  I  hate  deception,  even  Avhere 
the  imagination  only  is  concerned,  I  will.  It  is  needless  to  pre¬ 
mise  that  my  table  is  large  enough  to  hold  the  ladies.  Of  this 


DINNER. 


284 

- - - - - 

they  had  ocular  proof  yesterday.  To  say  how  it  is  usually  covered, 
is  rather  more  essential ;  and  this  shall  he  the  purport  of  my 
letter. 

“  Since  our  arrival  at  this  happy  spot,  we  have  had  a  ham, 
sometimes  a  shoulder  of  bacon,  to  grace  the  head  of  the  table  ;  a 
piece  of  roast  beef  adorns  the  foot ;  and  a  dish  of  beans,  or  greens, 
almost  imperceptibly  decorates  the  centre.  When  the  cook  has 
a  mind  to  cut  a  figure,  which  I  presume  will  he  the  case  to¬ 
morrow,  we  have  two  beef-steak  pies,  or  dishes  of  crabs,  in  addi¬ 
tion,  one  on  each  side  of  the  centre  dish,  dividing  the  space 
and  reducing  the  distance  between  dish  and  dish  to  about  six 
feet,  which,  without  them,  would  be  nearly  twelve  feet  apart.  Of 
late  he  has  had  the  surprising  sagacity  to  discover  that  apples  will 
make  pies ;  and  it  is  a  question,  if,  in  the  violence  of  his  efforts 
we  do  not  get  one  of  apples,  instead  of  having  both  of  beef-steaks. 
If  the  ladies  can  put  up  with  such  entertainment,  and  will  submit 
to  partalce  of  it  on  plates,  once  tin  but  now  iron ,  (not  become  so 
by  the  labor  of  scouring,)  I  shall  be  happy  to  see  them ;  and  am, 
dear  doctor,  yours,”  etc.,  etc. 

Gen.  Washington’s  camp-chest,  filled  with  the  table-furniture 
he  used  during  the  war,  is  preserved  at  the  Patent-Office,  Wash¬ 
ington.  It  contains  a  gridiron,  a  coffee  and  tea-pot,  three  tin 
saucepans,  (one  movable  handle  for  all,)  five  glass  flasks,  used 
for  honey,  salt,  coffee,  port-wine,  and  vinegar;  three  large  tin 
meat  dishes  ;  sixteen  plates  ;  two  knives  and  five  forks  ;  a  candle¬ 
stick  and  tinder-box  ;  tin  boxes  for  tea  and  sugar,  and  five  small 
bottles  for  pepper  and  other  materials  for  making  soup. 

WASHINGTON'S  STYLE  OF  LIVING  DURING  HIS  PEESIDENCY. 

“  Washington’s  dining  parties  were  entertained  in  a  very  hand 
some  style.  His  weekly  dining  day,  for  company,  was  Thursday, 
and  his  dining  hour  Avas  always  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon. 
His  rule  was  to  allow  five  minutes  for  the  variation  of  clocks  and 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  285 

watches,  and  then  go  to  the  table,  he  present  or  absent  whoever 
might.  He  kept  his  own  clock  in  the  hall,  just  within  the  out¬ 
ward  door,  and  always  exactly  regulated.  When  lagging  members 
of  Congress  came  in,  as  they  often  did,  after  the  guests  had  sat 
down  to  dinner,  the  President’s  only  apology  was,  “  Gentlemen, 
(or  sir,)  we  are  too  punctual  for  you.  I  have  a  cook  who  never 
asks  whether  the  company  has  come,  but  whether  the  hour  has 
come.”  The  company  usually  assembled  in  the  drawing-room 
about  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  before  dinner,  and  the  President 
spoke  to  every  guest  personally  on  entering  the  room.  He  was 
always  dressed  in  a  suit  of  black,  his  hair  powdered,  and  tied  in 
a  black  queue  behind,  with  a  very  elegant  dress  sword,  which  he 
wore  with  inimitable  grace.  Mrs.  Washington  often,  but  not  al¬ 
ways,  dined  with  the  company,  sat  at  the  head  of  the  table,  and 
if,  as  was  occasionally  the  case,  there  were  other  ladies  present, 
they  sat  at  the  foot  of  the  table,  and  were  expected  to  be  quietly 
attentive  to  all  the  guests.  The  President  himself  sat  half  way 
from  the  head  to  the  foot  of  the  table,  and  at  such  times  he  would 
place  Mrs.  Washington,  though  distant  from  him,  on  his  right 
hand.  He  always,  unless  a  clergyman  were  present  at  his  own 
table,  asked  a  blessing  in  a  standing  posture.  If  a  clergyman 
were  present,  he  was  requested  both  to  ask  a  blessing  and  to  re¬ 
turn  thanks  after  dinner.  The  centre  of  the  table  contained  five 
or  six  large  silver  or  plated  waiters,  those  of  the  ends  circular,  or 
rather  oval  at  one  side,  so  as  to  make  the  arrangement  correspond 
with  the  oval  shape  of  the  table.  The  waiters  between  the  end 
pieces  were  in  the  form  of  parallelograms,  the  ends  about  one- 
third  part  of  the  length  of  the  sides,  and  the  whole  of  these 
waiters  were  filled  with  alabaster  figures,  taken  from  the  ancient 
mythology,  but  none  of  them  such  as  to  offend  in  the  smallest  de¬ 
gree  against  delicacy.  On  the  outside  of  the  oval  formed  by  the 
waiters  were  placed  the  various  dishes,  always  without  covers  ; 
and  outside  the  dishes  vTere  the  plates.  A  small  roll  of  bread, 


DINNER. 


286 

enclosed  in  a  napkin,  was  laid  by  the  side  of  each  plate.  The 
President,  it  is  believed,  generally  dined  on  one  dish,  and  that  of 
a  simple  kind.  If  offered  something,  either  in  the  first  or  second 
course,  which  was  very  rich,  his  usual  reply  was,  4  That  is  too 
good  for  me.’  He  had  a  silver  pint  cup  or  mug  of  beer,  placed 
by  his  plate,  which  he  drank  ivhile  dining.  He  took  one  glass  of 
wine  during  dinner,  and  commonly  one  after.  He  then  retired — 
the  ladies  having  gone  a  little  before  him — and  left  his  secretary 
to  superintend  the  table  till  the  wine-bibbers  of  Congress  had  sat¬ 
isfied  themselves  with  drinking.  His  wines  were  always  the  best 
that  could  be  obtained.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  order  with 
which  his  table  was  served.  Every  servant  knew  what  he  was  to 
do,  and  did  it  in  the  most  quiet  and  rapid  manner.  The  dishes 
and  plates  were  removed  and  changed,  with  a  silence  and  speed  that 
seemed  like  enchantment. — Letter  of  the  late  Dr.  Ashbel  Green. 

GEN.  MARION’S  ENTERTAINMENT  TO  A  BRITISII  OFFICER. 

44  Gen.  Marion  was  stationed  on  Snow  Island,  South  Carolina, 
when  a  young  officer  of  the  British  army  visited  him  to  treat  re¬ 
specting  prisoners.  He  was  led  blindfolded  to  the  camp  of  Ma¬ 
rion.  There  he  first  saw  the  diminutive  form  of  the  great  parti¬ 
san  leader,  and  around  him  in  groups  were  his  followers,  lounging 
beneath  magnificent  trees  draped  with  moss.  When  their  busi¬ 
ness  was  concluded,  Marion  invited  the  young  Briton  to  dine  with 
him.  He  remained,  and  to  his  utter  astonishment  he  saw  some 
roasted  potatoes  brought  forward  on  a  piece  of  bark,  of  which  the 
general  partook  freely,  and  invited  his  guest  to  do  the  same. 
‘  Surely,  general,’  said  the  officer,  4  this  cannot  be  your  ordinary 
fare  %  ’  4  Indeed  it  is,’  replied  Marion,  4  and  we  are  fortunate, 

on  this  occasion,  entertaining  company,  to  have  more  than  our 
usual  allowance.’  It  is  related  that  the  young  officer  gave  up  his 
commission  on  his  return,  declaring  that  such  a  people  could  not, 
and  ought  not,  to  be  subdued.” — Lossing. 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  287 


SYDNEY  SMITH'S  ACCOUNT  OF  A  DINNER. 

“  Did  you  ever  dine  out  in  the  country  %  ”  said  my  father. 
“  What  misery  human  beings  inflict  on  each  other  under  the  name 

of  pleasure  !  We  went  to  dine  last  Thursday  with  Mr. - ,  a 

haunch  of  venison  being  the  stimulus  to  the  invitation.  We  set 
out  at  five  o’clock,  drove  in  a  broiling  sun  on  dusty  roads  three 
miles  ;  found  the  company  assembled  in  a  small,  hot  room,  the 
whole  house  redolent  of  frying ;  talked,  as  is  our  wont,  of  roads, 
weather,  and  turnips ;  that  done,  began  to  grow  hungry,  then  se¬ 
rious,  then  impatient.  At  last,  a  stripling,  evidently  caught  up 
for  the  occasion,  opened  the  door  and  beckoned  our  host  out  of  the 
room.  After  some  moments  of  awful  suspense,  he  returned  to  us 
with  a  face  of  much  distress,  saying,  £  The  woman  assisting  in  the 
kitchen  had  mistaken  the  soup  for  dirty  water,  and  thrown  it 
away ;  so  we  must  do  without  it.’  We  all  agreed  it  was  perhaps 
as  well  we  should,  under  the  circumstances.  At  last,  to  our  joy,  din¬ 
ner  was  announced ;  but  oh !  ye  powers  !  as  we  entered  the  dining¬ 
room,  what  a  gale  met  our  nose !  the  venison  was  high — the  venison 
was  uneatable,  and  was  obliged  to  follow  the  soup  with  all  speed. 

“  Dinner  proceeded,  but  our  spirits  flagged  under  these  accu¬ 
mulated  misfortunes ;  we  obtained  the  second  course  with  some 
difficulty,  bored  each  other  the  usual  time,  ordered  our  carriages 
expecting  our  post-boys  to  be  drunk,  and  were  grateful  to  Prov¬ 
idence  for  not  permitting  them  to  deposit  us  in  a  wet  ditch. 

“  So  much  for  dinners  in  the  country !  ” 

GEN.  URQUIZA’S  HOSPITALITY  TO  AMERICAN  OFFICERS  AND 

GENTLEMEN. 

General  Urquiza’s  recent  princely  entertainment  of  several 
American  officers  and  gentlemen,  should  not  pass  unnoticed. 
After  the  conclusion  of  the  treaty  respecting  Paraguay,  which  he, 
as  President  of  the  Argentine  Confederation,  negotiated  with 


DI^nSTER. 


288 

the  American  Commissioner  and  others,  he  invited  the  Commo¬ 
dore  of  the  squadron,  the  Commissioner,  'with  their  officers,  to  visit 
him  at  his  residence  at  San  Jose,  and  there  pass  the  22d  of  Febru¬ 
ary,  “  to  celebrate  with  him  the  birthday  of  the  immortal  Wash¬ 
ington  and  the  peace  with  Paraguay.”  As  the  number  of  guests 
was  not  strictly  specified,  when  the  company  arrived  near  Con¬ 
cepcion,  one  of  the  vessels  was  despatched  to  that  town  to  give  in¬ 
formation  of  the  Commodore’s  arrival,  and  learn,  if  possible,  how 
many  guests  were  expected.  She  returned  about  noon  with  the 
intelligence  “  that  the  dignitaries  were  expected  with  the  largest 
possible  suite ;  that  accommodations  had  been  provided  for  the 
whole  party  in  the  town,  if  we  elected  to  pass  the  night  there ; 
and  that  conveyances  were  likewise  in  waiting  if  we  preferred 
proceeding  directly  to  San  Jos6. 

“  This  last  course  Ave  decided  to  take,  but  it  was  nightfall  be¬ 
fore  Ave  drew  near  the  country  palace  of  San  Jose.  Then  a  long 
line  of  lights  met  the  eye,  and  Ave  soon  drove  in  betAveen  two 
lines  of  cavalry  drawn  up  on  either  side — an  avenue  of  living 
statues  Avith  drawn  sAvords,  visible  by  the  light  of  torches.  Then 
came  an  avenue  of  artillery,  and  Ave  finally  drove  through  one  of 
infantry  to  the  entrance  of  the  palace — all  this  Avith  no  other 
than  the 

“  ‘Sound  of  the  barbarous  horn,’ 

which,  with  the  fantastic  lights  and  shadoAvs,  made  the  scene  re¬ 
semble  the  approach  to  some  Arab  chieftain’s  tent,  rather  than  a 
visit  to  the  President  of  a  Republican  Confederation. 

“  Through  a  spacious  and  graceful  iron  gateway,  Ave  Avere 
escorted  by  a  staff  of  officers  in  rich  uniforms  up  a  floAver  garden, 
laid  out  in  parterres  with  marble  Avalks  and  fountains,  to  the 
porch  of  an  edifice  some  t\Aro  hundred  feet  broad,  and  only  one 
story  high,  Avith  tall  Saracenic  turrets  rising  at  either  of  the  tAvo 
front  corners.  Between  these  turrets  a  deep  portico,  paved  Avith 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  289 

dalles ,  was  covered  by  an  arcli-sustained  roof  resting  on  eight 
columns.  In  a  brilliantly-flighted  and  magnificently-furnished 
saloon  on  the  left  of  the  grand  hall  we  were  warmly  welcomed  hy 
our  illustrious  host,  for  whom  4  the  cry  is  still  they  come  ’  seemed 
to  have  no  terrors,  as  section  after  section  of  our  party  were  pre¬ 
sented  to  him.  lie  shortly  conducted  the  Commissioner  and 
Commodore  to  their  rooms, — a  list  of  our  party  was  furnished  ; 

.  all  were  quickly  provided  with  4  ample  and  elegant  accommoda¬ 
tions  ’ — eager  aids-de-camps  served  as  major-domos,  and  in  less 
than  half  an  hour  each  guest  felt  himself  at  home  in  the  princely 
residence.  We  were  apprised  that  dinner  would  he  served  at 
eight  o’clock,  and  after  a  comfortable  toilet,  proceeded  to  the  draw¬ 
ing-room,  where  the  gracious  and  beautiful  lady  of  the  mansion 
renewed  the  cordial  welcome  of  its  proprietor. 

The  dining-hall  reminded  one  of  the  banquet-room  at  Apsley 
House.  The  table  seemed  to  sink  under  the  profusion  of  flowers 
and  fruits.  We  sat  down  thirty,  and  you  may  judge  of  its  width 
by  the  fact  of  there  being  four  comfortable  seats  at  each  end. 
The  dishes  were  carved  by  two  aids-de-camp,  seated  at  small 
separate  tables  at  either  end  of  the  room.  I  counted  nineteen 
courses,  besides  fruits,  the  first  clay.  At  ten  we  adjourned  to  the 
drawing-room  for  coffee,  and  towards  midnight  we  broke  up  for 
an  early  start  on  the  morrow.  During  dinner,  a  military  band  in 
patio ,  or  interior  of  the  first  quadrangle,  enlivened  the  repast  with 
martial  and  patriotic  strains,  and  as  I  gazed  through  the  door 
beyond  the  arches  of  the  interior  portico  into  the  gloom  from  I 

Avhence  the  sounds  of  trumpets  and  shaums  proceeded,  and  caught 
a  glimpse  of  the  dusky  group  of  musicians  and  swart  soldiery,  I 
fancied  myself  in  the  Alhambra  before  the  clays  of  Isabella,  the 
Catholic. 

44  At  daybreak  the  next  morning  a  group  of  ebony  negresses, 
with  white  teeth  and  coral  lips,  pervaded  the  becl-chambers  with 
mate  and  coffee,  at  the  option  of  the  drowsy  guests.  Then  came 
19 


DINNER. 


290 

other  damsels,  less  obscure,  with  baskets  of  figs,  pears,  and  peaches, 
still  sparkling  witli  the  dews  of  night,  and  then  a  summons  to 
the  saddle  or  the  carriage  at  half-past  six  o’clock.  Sailors  are 
proverbially  sharp  dressers,  and  we  were  soon  assembled  beneath 
the  outer  portico.  The  lady  Urquiza  was  attired  for  the  noble 
steed  which  soon  bore  her,  attended  by  Judge  Bowlin  on  one  side, 
and  the  warrior  President  on  the  other,  through  the  long  line  of 
troops  presenting  arms,  to  the  distant  campo  where  herds  of  bul¬ 
locks  were  grazing.  We  followed — the  younger  on  horseback, 
and  the  soberer  in  carriages.” 

After  an  animated  chase,  and  many  feats  at  arms,  performed 
for  the  diversion  of  the  guests,  the  party  returned  to  the  palace. 
A  formal  dinner  took  place  that  evening,  at  which  there  were 
twenty-one  courses ;  the  guests  were  in  uniform ;  speeches  were 
made  on  both  sides  doing  honor  to  the  occasion,  and  after  a 
sumptuous  entertainment  the  company  parted.  Their  princely 
reception,  and  the  noble  hospitality  of  Urquiza,  were  the  themes 
for  every  tongue,  when  the  guests  at  length  took  their  departure 
from  the  palace  of  this  distinguished  South  American  gentleman. 

SANCHO  PANZA  AT  CAMACHO’S  WEDDING  FEAST. 

“  The  first  thing  that  presented  itself  to  Sancho’s  sight  was  a 
whole  bullock ,  spitted  upon  a  large  elm.  The  fire  by  which  it  was 
roasted  was  composed  of  a  mountain  of  wood,  and  round  it  were 
placed  six  huge  pots — not  cast  in  common  moulds,  but  each 
large  enough  to  contain  a  whole  shamble  of  flesh. 

“  Entire  sheep  were  swallowed  up  in  them,  and  floated  like  so 
many  pigeons.  The  hares  ready  flayed,  and  the  fowls  plucked, 
that  hung  about  the  branches  in  order  to  be  buried  in  these  cal¬ 
drons,  were  without  number.  Infinite  was  the  wild  fowl  and 
venison  hanging  about  the  trees  to  receive  the  cool  air. 

“  Sancho  counted  above  threescore  skins,  each  holding  above 


I 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  291 

twenty-four  quarts,  and  all,  as  appeared  afterwards,  full  of  gener¬ 
ous  wines. 

“  Hillocks  too,  lie  saw,  of  the  whitest  bread,  ranged  like 
heaps  of  wheat  on  the  threshing  floor ;  and  cheeses,  piled  up  in 
the  manner  of  bricks,  formed  a  kind  of  wall.  Two  caldrons  of 
oil,  larger  than  dyers’  vats,  stood  ready  for  frying  all  sorts  of 
batter-ware ;  and,  with  a  couple  of  stout  peels,  they  shovelled  them 
up  when  fried,  and  forthwith  immersed  them  in  a  kettle  of  prepared 
honey  that  stood  near.  The  men  and  women  cooks  were  about 
fifty  in  number,  all  clean,  all  active,  and  all  in  good  humor. 

44  In  the  bullock’s  distended  belly  were  sewed  up  a  dozen  suck¬ 
ing  pigs,  to  make  it  savory  and  tender. 

“  The  spices,  of  various  kinds,  which  seemed  to  have  been 
bought  by  the  hundredweight,  were  deposited  in  a  great  chest, 
and  open  to  every  hand.  In  short,  the  preparation  for  the  wed¬ 
ding  was  all  rustic,  but  in  sufficient  abundance  to  have  feasted 
an  army. 

44  Sancho  beheld  all  with  wonder  and  delight.  The  first  that 
captivated  and  subdued  his  inclinations,  were  the  flesh-pots,  out  of 
which  he  would  have  been  glad  to  have  filled  a  moderate  pipkin ; 
next  the  wine-skins  drew  his  affections ;  and  lastly,  the  products 
of  the  frying-pans, — if  such  capacious  vessels  might  be  so  called  ; 
and  being  unable  any  longer  to  abstain,  he  ventured  to  approach 
one  of  the  busy  cooks,  and  in  persuasive  and  hungry  terms,  beg¬ 
ged  leave  to  sop  a  luncheon  of  bread  in  one  of  the  pots.  To 
which  the  cook  replied,  4  This,  friend,  is  not  a  day  for  hunger  to 
be  abroad — thanks  to  rich  Camacho.  Alight,  and  look  about  you 
for  a  ladle  to  skim  out  a  fowl  or  two,  and  much  good  may  they 
do  you.’ 

44  4  1  see  no  ladle,’  answered  Sancho. 

44  4  Stay,’  quoth  the  cook,  4  God  save  me,  what  a  helpless 
varlet !  ’ 

44  So  saying,  he  laid  hold  of  a  kettle,  and  sousing  it  into  one  of 


292  DINNER. 

the  half-jars,  he  fished  out  three  pullets,  and  a  couple  of  geese,  and 
said  to  Sancho : 

“  ‘  Eat,  friend,  and  make  a  breakfast  of  this  scum,  to  stay 
your  stomach  until  dinner-time.’ 

“  ‘  I  have  nothing  to  put  it  in,’  answered  Sancho. 

“  1  Then  take  ladle  and  all,’  quoth  the  cook  ;  ‘  for  Camacho’s 
riches  and  joy  supply  everything.’  ” 

Basilius,  a  poor  student,  and  Camacho  the  rich,  were  aspir¬ 
ants  to  the  hand  of  a  beautiful  young  girl. 

She  loved  Basilius,  but  her  father  preferred  Camacho,  on 
account  of  his  great  wealth,  which  he  now  displayed  at  the  mar¬ 
riage  feast. 

Before  tasting  of  all  these  things,  Sancho’s  sympathies  were 
strongly  enlisted  in  behalf  of  Basilius ;  but  after  eating,  he 
said,  “  I  hold  with  Camacho,  for  I  know  very  well  I  shall  never 
get  such  elegant  scum  from  Basilius’s  pots,  as  I  have  from 
Camacho’s.  My  grandmother  used  to  say,  there  are  but  two 
families  in  the  world,  the  Have’s  and  the  Have-nots ,  and  she 
stuck  to  the  former.  So  that  I  tell  you  again,  I  hold  with 
Camacho.” — Cervantes. 

DINNER  AND  REJOICINGS  UPON  TIIE  NEW  YEAR'S  COMING  OF  AGE. 

“  The  old  year  being  dead,  and  the  New  Year  coming  of  age, 
nothing  would  serve  the  young  spark  but  he  must  give  a  dinner 
on  the  occasion,  to  which  all  the  Days  in  the  year  were  invited. 
The  Festivals,  whom  he  deputed  as  his  stewards,  were  mightily 
taken  with  the  notion.  They  had  been  engaged  time  out  of 
mind,  they  said,  in  providing  mirth  and  good  cheer  for  mortals 
below,  and  it  was  time  they  should  have  a  taste  of  their  own 
bounty.  It  was  stiffly  debated  among  them  whether  the  Fasts 
should  be  admitted.  Some  said  the  appearance  of  such  lean, 
starved  guests,  with  their  mortified  faces,  would  pervert  the  ends  of 
the  meeting.  But  the  objection  was  overruled  by  Christmas-day, 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  293 

who  bad  a  design  upon  Ash-  Wednesday,  as  you  shall  bear.  Only 
the  Vigils  were  requested  to  come  with  their  lanterns  to  light  the 
gentlefolks  home  at  night. 

“  All  the  Days  came  to  their  day.  Covers  were  provided  for 
three  hundred  and  sixty  five  guests  at  the  principal  table,  with  an 
occasional  knife  and  fork  at  the  sideboard  for  the  Twenty-ninth  of 
February. 

“  I  should  have  told  you  that  cards  of  invitation  had  been  issued. 
The  carriers  were  the  Hours  ;  twelve  little,  merry,  whirligig,  foot- 
pages  as  you  should  desire  to  see,  that  went  all  round  and  found 
out  the  persons  invited  well  enough,  with  the  exception  of  East- 
er-day,  Shrove- Tuesday,  and  a  few  such  Moveables,  who  had  late¬ 
ly  shifted  their  quarters. 

“  Well,  they  all  met  at  last,  foul  Days,  fine  Days,  all  sorts  of 
Days,  and  a  rare  din  they  made  of  it.  There  was  nothing  but 
Hail!  fellow  Day ,  ivell  met — brother  Day — sister  Day — only 
Lady-Day  kept  a  little  on  the  aloof,  and  seemed  somewhat  scorn¬ 
ful.  Yet  some  said  Twelfth-Day  cut  her  out  and  out,  for  she 
came  in  a  tiffany  suit,  white  and  gold,  like  a  queen  on  a  frost- 
cake,  all  royal,  glittering,  Epipbanous.  The  rest  came,  some  in 
green,  some  in  white, — but  old  Lent  and  his  family  were  not  yet 
out  of  mourning.  Rainy  Days  came  in,  dripping  ;  and  Sunshiny 
Days  helped  them  to  change  their  stockings.  Wedding  Day  was 
there  in  his  marriage  finery,  a  little  the  worse  for  wear. 

“  Fay  Day  came  late,  as  he  always  does ;  and  Doomsday  sent 
word — he  might  be  expected. 

“April  Fool  (as  my  young  lord’s  jester)  took  upon  liimsell  to 
marshal  the  guests,  and  wild  work  he  made  with  it.  It  would 
have  posed  old  Erra  Pater  to  have  found  out  any  given  Day  in 
the  year  to  erect  a  scheme  upon — good  Days,  bad  Days  were  so 
shuffled  together,  to  the  confounding  of  all  sober  horoscopy. 

“  He  had  stuck  the  twenty-first  of  June  next  to  the  twenty-sec¬ 
ond  of  December,  and  the  former  looked  like  a  maypole  siding  a 


294  DINNER. 

marrow-bone.  Ash-Wednesday  got  wedged  in  (as  was  concerted) 
between  Christmas  and  Lord  Mayor’s  days.  How  he  laid  about 
him !  Nothing  but  barons  of  beef  and  turkeys  would  go  down 
with  him — to  the  great  greasing  and  detriment  of  his  new  sackcloth 
bib  and  tucker.  And  still  Christmas-day  was  at  his  elbow,  ply¬ 
ing  him  with  the  wassail-bowl,  till  he  roared  and  hiccoughed,  and 
protested  there  was  no  faith  in  dried  ling,  but  commended  it  to 
the  devil  for  a  sour,  windy,  acrimonious,  censorious,  hy-po-crit- 
crit-crit-ical  mess,  and  no  dish  for  a  gentleman, 

“  At  another  part  of  the  table  Shrove-Tuesday  was  helping  the 
Second  of  September  to  some  cock-broth,  which  courtesy  the  lat¬ 
ter  returned  with  the  delicate  thigh  of  a  hen-pheasant ; — so  there  was 
no  love  lost  for  that  matter.  The  last  of  Lent  was  sponging  upon 
Shrovetide’s  pancakes,  which  April  Fool  perceiving,  told  him  he 
did  well,  for  pancakes  were  proper  to  a  good  f  ry-day. 

“  It  beginning  to  grow  a  little  duskish,  Candlemas  lustily 
bawled  out  for  lights,  which  was  opposed  by  all  the  Hays,  "who 
protested  against  burning  daylight. 

“  May-clay,  with  that  sweetness  which  is  peculiar  to  her,  in  a 
neat  speech,  proposing  the  health  of  the  founder,  crowned  her 
goblet  (and  by  her  example  the  rest  of  the  company)  with  gar¬ 
lands.  This  being  done,  the  lordly  New  Year,  from  the  upper  end 
of  the  table,  in  a  cordial  but  somewhat  lofty  tone,  returned  thanks. 
He  felt  proud  on  an  occasion  of  meeting  so  many  of  .his  wrorthy 
father’s  late  tenants,  promised  to  improve  their  farms,  and  at  the 
same  time,  to  abate  (if  anything  was  found  unreasonable)  in 
their  rents.  At  the  mention  of  this,  the  four  Quarter  Days  invol¬ 
untarily  looked  at  each  other  and  smiled ;  April  Fool  whistled  to 
an  old  tune  of  “  New  Brooms,”  and  a  surly  old  rebel  at  the 
further  end  of  the  table  (who  was  discovered  to  be  no  other  than 
the  Fifth  of  November),  muttered  out  words  to  this  effect,  that 
“when  the  old  one  is  gone,  he  is  a  fool  that  looks  for  a  better” — 
which  rudeness  of  his,  the  guests  resenting,  unanimously  voted 


DINNERS,  FEASTS,  ETC.,  OF  VARIOUS  PERSONS.  295 

his  expulsion,  and  the  malcontent  was  thrust  out  neck  and  heels 
into  the  cellar,  as  the  properest  place  for  such  a  firebrand  as  he 
had  shown  himself  to  be. 

“  They  next  fell  to  quibbles  and  conundrums.  The  question 
being  proposed,  who  had  the  greatest  number  of  followers,  the 
Quarter  Days  said  there  could  be  no  question  as  to  that,  for  they 
had  all  the  creditors  in  the  world  dogging  their  heels. 

“  Day  being  ended,  the  Days  called  for  their  cloaks  and  great¬ 
coats,  and  took  their  leaves.  Lord  Mayor’s  Day  went  off  in  a 
mist,  as  usual ;  Shortest  Day  in  a  deep  black  fog,  that  wrapped 
the  little  gentleman  all  round  like  a  hedge-hog  ;  Longest  Day  set 
off  westward  in  beautiful  crimson  and  gold — the  rest,  some  in  one 
fashion,  some  in  another ;  but  Valentine  and  pretty  May  took 
their  departure  together  in  one  of  the  prettiest  silvery  twilights 
a  Lover's  Day  could  wish  to  set  in.” — Charles  Lamb. 


PART  III. 

TEA. 


CONTENTS. 

1.  Tea  Considered.  3.  Tea  Biscuits  and  Cakes. 

2.  Tea  as  a  Beverage.  4.  Preserves. 

5.  Various  Suppers,  Fetes,  etc. 


TEA.  295 


TEA. 

■  •  “Now  stir  tho  Are,  and  close  tlie  shutters  fast, 

Let  fall  the  curtains,  wheel  the  sofa  round, 

And  while  the  bubbling  and  loud  hissing  urn 
Throws  up  a  steamy  column,  and  the  cups 
That  cheer,  but  not  inebriate,  wait  on  each. 

So  let  us  welcome  peaceful  evening  in.” — CowrEF.. 

When  the  dinner  is  served  at  a  late  hour,  as  in  fashionable 
life,  Tea  does  not  deserve  the  name  of  a  meal,  since  it  is  seldom 
more  than  tea  or  coffee  served  in  the  parlor  accompanied  by  cakes. 
This  light  refreshment  was  called  in  the  fifteenth  century  the 
voicle,  of  which  we  have  an  account  in  Henry  VII. rs  time.  After 
the  marriage  dinner  of  Katharine  of  Arragon  and  Arthur,  Prince 
of  Wales,  “  the  evening  refreshment,  called  the  voide,  was  brought 
in  by  fourscore  earls,  barons,  and  knights,  walking  two  and  two ; 
the  ceremony  of  serving  the  voide  being  precisely  as  coffee  is  now 
presented  after  dinner  ;  hut,  instead  of  coffee  and  biscuits,  ipocras 
and  comfits  were  offered.  One  noble  servitor  presented  the  golden 
spice-plate,  a  second  the  cup,  while  a  third  of  lower  rank,  filled 
the  cup  from  a  golden  ewer.” 

Out  of  merely  fashionable  life,  however,  the  tea  becomes  of 
more  importance ;  it  is  a  most  cheerful  and  social  repast  for  the 
domestic  circle,  and  one  to  which  the  unexpected  guest  most 
readily  finds  a  cordial  welcome.  It  is  composed  not  merely  of 
tea  and  cakes,  hut  of  bread  and  butter,  of  various  relishes,  and  of 
fruits,  either  fresh  or  preserved.  In  our  Northern  States,  it  is  a 
very  general  custom  both  in  town  and  country,  to  invite  company 
to  tea ; — this  meal  being  preferred  to  dinner  as  involving  less 


300  TEA. 

effort,  fatigue,  and  formality.  The  table  is  on  these  occasions 
more  or  less  bountifully  spread,  according  to  the  means  and  tastes 
of  the  hosts ;  conversation  flows  unrestrained  by  formality ;  a 
general  cheerfulness  seems  to  emanate  from  the  steaming  cups  of 
tea,  and  the  company  generally  separate  at  an  early  hour,  with 
increased  kindliness  and  neighborly  feeling. 

In  the  rural  districts,  this  meal  partakes  of  the  nature  of  a 
supper,  both  on  ordinary  and  extraordinary  occasions.  When 
these  latter  occur,  the  greatest  profusion  abounds  ;  plenty  with 
them  is  the  soul  of  hospitality,  and  it  is  desired  that  every  guest 
shall  taste  of  every  dish.  The  description  which  Washington 
Irving  gives  of  the  Dutch  country  tea-table,  although  an  exag¬ 
gerated  picture,  is  yet  such  a  pleasant  one,  that  we  subjoin  it  for 
the  amusement  of  our  readers : 

“  Fain  would  I  pause  to  dwell  upon  the  world  of  charms  that 
burst  upon  the  enraptured  gaze  of  Ichabod  Crane,  as  he  entered 
the  state  parlor  of  Van  Tassel’s  mansion.  Not  those  of  the  bevy 
of  buxom  lasses,  with  their  luxurious  display  of  red  and  white  ;  but 
the  ample  charms  of  a  genuine  Dutch  country  tea-table  in  the 
sumptuous  time  of  autumn.  Such  heaped-up  platters  of  cakes  of 
various  and  almost  indescribable  kinds,  known  only  to  expe¬ 
rienced  Dutch  housewives !  There  was  the  doughty  dough-nut, 
the  tenderer  oly  lcock,  and  the  crisp  and  crumbling  cruller ;  sweet 
cakes  and  short  cakes,  ginger  cakes  and  honey  cakes,  and  the 
whole  family  of  cakes.  And  then  there  were  apple  pies,  and  peach 
pies,  and  pumpkin  pies  ;  besides  slices  of  ham  and  smoked  beef; 
and  moreover  delectable  dishes  of  preserved  plums,  and  peaches, 
and  pears,  and  quinces,  not  to  mention  broiled  shad  and  roasted 
chickens ;  together  with  bowls  of  milk  and  cream,  all  mingled 
higgledy-piggledy,  pretty  much  as  I  have  enumerated  them,  with 
the  motherly  teapot,  sending  up  its  clouds  of  vapor  from  the 
midst.  Heaven  bless  the  mark  ! — I  want  breath  and  time  to  dis¬ 
cuss  this  banquet  as  it  deserves.  Happily  Ichabod  was  not  in  so 


■  I 

TEA  AS  A  BEVERAGE.  301 

great  a  hurry  as  liis  historian,  hut  did  ample  justice  to  every 
dainty.” 

At  the  evening  “  receptions  ”  which  are  coming  into  favor  in 
our  society,  the  slight  refreshment  of  tea  and  cakes,  is  very  ap¬ 
propriate,  and  a  promoter  of  ease  and  sociability.  A  small  table 
is  spread  with  tea  or  coffee,  and  cakes,  which  are  offered  to  the 
guests  by  either  the  lady  of  the  house  or  one  of  her  family.  No 
.  invitations  are  given  to  these  receptions,  but  the  general  one, 
which  the  lady  issues  to  her  friends  at  the  beginning  of  the 
season.  The  guests  come  when  they  choose,  spend  as  much  or  as 
little  time,  and  retire  when  they  please  without  formality.  Mrs. 
James  Rush,  of  our  own  day,  will  long  be  remembered  by  those 
who  accepted  her  hospitality,  and  enjoyed  the  numerous  gather¬ 
ings  of  this  nature  at  her  elegant  mansion  in  Philadelphia. 


TEA  AS  A  BEVERAGE. 

It  is  not  known  at  what  time  tea  was  first  used  in  the  Chinese 
Empire.  As  early  as  780  a.  n.  a  duty  was  levied  upon  the  tea, 
that  grew  spontaneously  on  the  mountains.  From  1028  to 
1063,  large  factories  were  established,  and  the  commerce  became 
extensive. 

It  is  now  two  hundred  years  since  its  introduction  into  Eng¬ 
land  ;  previous  to  which,  beer  and  ale  were  the  customary  drinks 
at  table,  for  both  men  and  women.  In  1678,  the  East  India 
Company  commenced  the  regular  importation  of  tea,  as  an  article 
of  commerce.  At  this  early  period  it  was  a  court  luxury,  and  sold 
from  twenty-five  to  forty-five  dollars  per  pound.  Even  fifty  years 
after,  it  was  still  a  luxury  confined  to  the  wealthy,  and  used  in 
small  quantities,  with  cautious  economy,  out  of  cups  containing 
about  a  table-spoonful. 

It  is  about  one  hundred  and  forty  years  since  tea  came  into 


302  tea. 

use  in  New  England ;  and  tliere,  as  elsewhere,  it  slowly  grew 
into  the  favor  of  the  richer  part  of  the  community. 

Many  anecdotes  are  related  of  the  mistakes  made  by  cooks 
and  others  in  the  first  preparation  of  it.  One  gentleman  had  it 
served  up  as  greens  for  his  table ;  the  water  in  which  the  leaves 
were  boiled  being  thrown  away. 

The  compact  entered  into  by  various  towns  on  our  sea-coast, 
during  the  difficulties  with  Great  Britain,  not  to  import  tea  on 
account  of  the  tax  laid  upon  it,  prevented  its  coming  into  general 
use  until  some  years  after  the  Revolutionary  war.  During  this 
struggle,  “Liberty  Tea”  was  adopted  by  some  persons,  as  a  sub¬ 
stitute.  It  was  made  from  the  four-leaved  loose  strife.  This  plant 
was  pulled  up  like  flax  ;  its  stalks,  stripped  of  their  leaves,  were 
boiled ;  the  leaves  were  then  put  into  an  iron  kettle,  and  the 
liquor  of  the  stalks  poured  over  them.  After  this  process,  the 
leaves  were  removed  to  platters,  and  placed  in  an  oven  to  dry. 

The  varieties  of  black  tea  are  Bohea,  Congou,  Campoi, 
Souchong,  Caper  and  Pekoe.  The  green  teas  are  known  as  Im¬ 
perial,  Hyson,  Twankay  and  Gunpowder. 

Of  the  cheering  effects  of  tea,  unanimous  testimony  has  been 
given  in  every  country  where  it  has  been  used. 

As  a  Chinese  ambassador  to  Thibet,  was  once  making  a 
preparation  of  tea  in  his  tent,  the  natives  of  Thibet  who  were 
present,  inquired  about  its  qualities.  “  It  is  a  drink,”  replied  he, 
“  which  relieves  thirst,  and  dissipates  sorrow.”  Dr.  Kane  speaks  of 
it  as  an  unfailing  resource,  in  his  fatiguing  journeys  across  the  ice 
and  snow  of  the  Arctic  regions.  Tea  was  Dr.  Johnson’s  favorite 
beverage.  He  said  his  “  tea-kettle  had  no  time  to  cool  ;  that 
with  tea  he  solaced  the  midnight  hour,  and  with  tea  he  welcomed 
the  morning.”  One  of  Sydney  Smith’s  recipes  against  melan¬ 
choly,  was  always  to  keep  “  a  tea-lcettle  simmering  on  the  hob.” 

TIlc  Preparation  of  Tea. — Black  tea  is  best  when  boiled  fif- 


TEA  BISCUITS  ANT)  CAKES.  303 

teen  or  twenty  minutes ;  green  tea  should  not  be  boiled.  It  lias 
the  freshest  taste  when  steeped  in  an  earthen  tea-pot  which  has 
been  previously  scalded,  leaving  it  to  stand  by  the  fire  ten  or  fif¬ 
teen  minutes.  Turn  only  a  small  quantity  of  scalding  water 
upon  the  tea  while  steeping,  hut  fill  the  pot  when  ready  to  take 
to  the  table.  It  is  well  to  follow  the  English  rule  when  prepar¬ 
ing  tea  for  company — allow  a  spoonful  of  tea  for  each  person,  and 
.“  one  for  the  pot.” 

Mr.  Brace,  in  his  “  Social  Life  in  Germany,”  mentions,  that 
tea  was  passed,  flavored  with  vanilla  and  rum  ! 

“  Do  you  know,”  said  I,  “  you  would  utterly  shock  any  of  our 
tea-drinkers,  by  such  a  mixture  as  that  ?  ” 

“  I  know  it  is  not  English,”  answered  a  lady,  “  but  you  will 
find  it  all  through  Germany.  We  think  the  tea  will  not  awaken 
us  at  night,  if  we  sprinkle  in  rum.” 

“  One  evening,  when  Sydney  Smith  was  drinking  tea  with 
Mrs.  Austin,  the  servant  entered  the  crowded  room,  with  a  boil¬ 
ing  tea-kettle  in  his  hand.  It  seemed  doubtful,  nay,  impossible, 
he  should  make  his  way  among  the  numerous  groups, — but,  on 
the  first  approach  of  the  steaming  kettle  the  crowd  receded  on  al  1 
sides,  Mr.  Smith,  among  the  rest,  though  carefully  watching  the 
progress  of  the  lad  to  the  table.  ‘  I  declare,’  said  he,  addressing 
Mrs.  Austin,  1  a  man  who  wishes  to  make  his  way  in  life  could 
do  nothing  better  than  go  through  the  world  with  a  boiling  tea¬ 
kettle  in  his  hand.’  ” — Life  of  Rev.  Sydney  Smith. 


TEA  BISCUITS  AND  CAKES. 

Soda  Biscuits. — To  one  quart  of  flour,  add  two  tea-spoonsful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  one  of  soda,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
an  egg.  Sift  the  cream  of  tartar  into  the  flour ;  rub  the  butter 


304  TEA. 

thoroughly  into  the  same ;  dissolve  the  soda  in  two-thirds  of  a 
pint  of  sweet  milk,  or  warm  water,  and  mix  quickly  ;  bake  im¬ 
mediately  in  a  hot  oven. 

Extra  Soda  Biscuits. — Another  rule  for  soda  biscuits  is  as 
follows  :  To  one  quart  of  flour  add  five  tea-spoonsful  of  cream  of 
tartar,  two  of  soda,  a  little  salt,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg.  Sift  both  cream  of  tartar  and  soda  with  the  flour ;  rub  the 
butter  in  well,  and  mix  with  sufficient  sweet  milk  to  make  a  soft 
dough.  Roll  it  out  and  cut  it  into  cakes  about  an  inch  thick  ;  bake 
in  a  quick  oven,  and  they  will  puff  up  to  twdce  their  original  size. 

Strawberry  Biscuit. — Bake  a  soda  biscuit  after  the  first  of  the 
preceding  rules,  cutting  it  as  large  as  a  dining-plate ;  open  it 
while  hot,  and  butter  each  half  well ;  spread  strawberries  upon 
the  lower  half,  sprinkling  them  thickly  with  sugar  ;  lay  the  upper 
half  on,  and  butter  the  upper  side  :  cover  it  with  strawberries, 
finishing  it  nicely  with  white  sugar,  and  eat  it  while  warm. 

Patent  Tea-Cakes. — Sift  two  tea-spoonsful  of  cream  of  tartar 
and  two  table-spoonsful  of  white  sugar  into  one  quart  of  flour  ; 
beat  two  eggs,  and  add  to  them  after  it  is  melted  a  piece  of  but¬ 
ter  the  size  of  an  egg ;  mix  these  ingredients  together  with  one  pint 
of  milk,  and  just  as  you  are  ready  to  put  the  mixture  into  the 
pan,  add  one  tea-spoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  a  little  milk ;  bake 
in  muffin-rings  or  in  small  tin  pans.  To  be  eaten  while  hot. 

Rye  Drop  Cakes. — To  one  pint  of  sour  milk  or  buttermilk, 
add  three  eggs ;  not  quite  a  tea-spoonful  of  saleratus  ;  a  little 
salt  and  rye-meal  sufficient  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Bake  in  muffin- 
rings,  or  drop  the  batter  with  a  spoon  on  tin  pans  in  the  shape 
of  small  cakes  ;  twenty  minutes  will  be  sufficient  for  the  baking. 

Rusk. — Rub  half  a  pound  of  sugar  into  three  pounds  of  flour, 


TEA  BISCUITS  AND  CAKES.  305 

sift  it,  and  add  to  it  the  following :  half  a  pint  of  good  yeast, 
six  beaten  eggs,  and  half  a  pint  of  sweet  milk.  Mix  all  together 
and  knead  the  dough  well.  If  it  should  not  seem  soft  enough, 
add  more  milk  ;  it  should  be  softer  than  bread.  Make  it  at  even¬ 
ing,  that  it  may  stand  long  enough  to  become  light.  In  the 
morning,  if  well  risen,  work  six  ounces  of  butter  with  it,  cut  it 
into  small  rolls,  and  bake. 

Eliza's  Sponge  Cake. — To  three  cups  of  flour,  add  three  of  su¬ 
gar,  eight  eggs,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  saleratus,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar. 

Soda  Sponge  Cake. — Take  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  of  flour, 
one  tea-spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda? 
three  eggs,  salt,  and  flavoring.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  three  table- 
spoonsful  of  milk.  Mix  the  flour  and  cream  of  tartar  together, 
then  add  the  sugar,  the  beaten  eggs,  and  flavoring ;  and  last,  the 
soda  and  milk. 

Kate's  Sponge  Cake. — Take  six  eggs,  with  their  weight  in 
sugar,  and  the  weight  of  four  of  them  in  flour.  Beat  the  whites 
to  a  froth  ;  stir  the  yelks  with  the  sugar,  and  then  putting  them 
together,  stir  the  whole  ten  minutes,  gradually  adding  the  flour. 
Flavor  with  vanilla,  lemon,  or  nutmeg.  Bake  it  in  a  quick  oven, 
and  do  not  move  it  while  baking. 

Pound  Cake. — One  quart  of  flour,  one  and  a  half  pints  of 
sugar,  two  cups  of  butter,  half  a  cup  of  sour  milk,  half  a  tea-spoon¬ 
ful  of  saleratus,  and  eight  eggs.  Flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla. 

“  A  Pint  is  a  Pound 
All  the  world  round.” 

Pick  Fruit  Cake. — One  pound  of  flour,  one  of  sugar,  one  of 
butter,  two  of  raisins,  one  of  dried  currants,  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  citron,  eight  eggs,  one  gill  of  molasses,  grated  nutmeg,  and 
20 


306  TEA. 

other  spice  to  your  taste,  and  also  one  cup  of  brandy.  Dissolve 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  saleratus  in  half  a  cup  of  sweet  milk,  and 
stir  it  into  the  mixture  before  the  fruit  is  added,  which  must  be 
done  the  last  thing  before  putting  the  cake  in  the  oven. 

“  He  that  will  not  when  he  may, 

When  he  would,  he  shall  have  nay.” — Sp.  Proverb. 

Silver  Cake. — Take  the  whites  of  eight  eggs,  two-thirds  of  a 
cup  of  butter,  two  cups  of  sugar,  two  of  flour,  a  little  more  than 
half  a  cup  of  sweet  milk,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda,  and  one 
tea-spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 

“  L’ami  de  table  est  variable.” 

Golden  Cake. — The  yelks  of  eight  eggs,  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
one  and  a  half  cups  of  sugar,  twro  of  flour,  a  little  more  than  half 
a  cup  of  sweet  milk,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda,  and  one  tea¬ 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 

“  Tell  me  what  thou  eatest,  and  I  will  tell  thee  what  thou 
art.” — M.  Savarin. 

Federal  Cake. — One  pound  of  sugar,  one  pound  of  raisins, 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of  flour,  one  cup  of  sour  milk, 
one  tea  spoonful  of  soda,  one  wdne-glass  of  brandy,  five  eggs  and 
a  nutmeg.  When  sweet  milk  is  used,  two  tea-spoonsful  of  cream 
of  tartar  must  be  added. 

Lemon  Cake. — One  cup  of  butter,  three  cups  of  powdered 
sugar,  four  cups  of  flour,  five  eggs,  one  cup  of  sweet  milk,  one  tea¬ 
spoonful  of  soda,  and  one  grated  lemon. 

Delieale  Cake. — One  and  a  half  cups  of  sugar,  the  same  of 
flour,  half  a  cup  each  of  butter,  milk,  and  corn-starch ;  the 
whites  of  six  eggs,  one  tea-spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  half 
a  tea  spoonful  of  soda. 


TEA  BISCUITS  AND  CAKES.  307 

Mountain  Cake. — One  cup  of  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  of 
flour,  one  of  milk,  and  six  eggs ;  one  tea-spoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar  mixed  with  the  flour,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda  put  in 
dry  the  last  thing. 

<£  With  a  full  stomach  it  is  easy  to  praise  fasting.” 

Mrs.  R's  Cocoanut  Cake. — One  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  but¬ 
ter,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  flour,  the  whites  of  eight  eggs,  one  co¬ 
coanut  grated,  two  spoonsful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  half  a  spoon¬ 
ful  of  soda.  The  cocoanut  must  be  added  last. 

“  Do  not  too  much  for  your  stomach,  or  it  will  abandon  you, — 
for  it  is  ungrateful.” — M.  D.  Curry. 

Cup  Cake. — One  cup  of  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  and  a 
half  of  flour,  four  eggs,  one  cup  of  sweet  milk  ;  one  tea-spoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar  sprinkled  in  dry,  and  half  a  spoonful  of  soda 
dissolved  in  milk.  If  it  be  more  convenient  to  use  sour,  instead 
of  sweet  milk,  then  omit  the  cream  of  tartar. 

Jelly  Cake. — One  and  a  half  cups  of  sugar,  twro  and  a  half 
of  flour,  half  a  cup  of  butter,  one  of  milk,  one  egg,  one  spoonful 
of  soda,  and  two  of  cream  of  tartar.  Bake  in  thin  cakes,  and 
put  them  together,  spreading  currant  jelly  over  the  top  of  each 
while  it  is  hot. 

“  A  hungry  eye  sleeps  not.” 

Cake  without  Eggs. — One  tumbler  of  butter,  three  of  sour 
milk,  three  of  sugar,  one  of  raisins,  six  of  flour,  and  two  tea- 
spoonsful  of  soda.  Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together,  then 
add  two  tumblers  of  the  milk,  and  to  the  third  dissolve  the  soda. 
Flavor  to  your  taste. 

Plain  C.d  e. — One  pound  of  flour,  one  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of 


308  TEA. 

a  pound  of  butter,  balf  a  pint  of  milk,  one  tea-spoonful  of  salera- 
tus,  and  two  eggs. 

Nellu  Cake. — Four  cups  of  flour,  two  of  sugar,  one  of  butter, 
one  of  cream,  three  eggs,  a  nutmeg,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of 
saleratus. 

Raisin  Cake. — Two  cups  of  butter,  three  of  sugar,  six  and  a 
half  of  flour,  one  of  sour  milk,  one  of  brandy  or  rose  water,  one 
and  a  half  pounds  of  raisins,  one  tea-spoonful  of  soda,  five  eggs, 
a  nutmeg,  and  cloves.  Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream  ;  add 
the  eggs  well-beaten  ;  then  the  spice  ;  next  the  milk  and  six  cups 
of  flour  ;  then  brandy.  Sift  the  soda  dry  into  the  mixture,  and 
last,  add  the  raisins.  Do  not  wash  the  raisins,  but  rub  them  with 
a  dry  cloth,  stone  and  chop  them,  and  mix  with  them  half  a  cup 
of  the  flour.  As  soon  as  they  are  well  stirred  into  the  mixture, 
put  the  cake  into  the  oven. 

In  Spain  and  Portugal  it  is  the  practice,  in  drying  grapes  for 
raisins,  to  cut  the  stalks  of  the  bunches  half  through,  when  the 
grapes  are  nearly  ripe.  Being  thus  suspended  by  their  stalks 
upon  the  vine,  the  sun  candies  them,  and  when  dry  they  are 
packed  in  boxes. 

Washington  Pound  Cake. — Wash  the  salt  from  one  pound  of 
.  butter,  and  rub  it  till  it  is  as  soft  as  cream  ;  have  ready  one 
pound  of  sifted  flour,  one  of  powdered  sugar,  and  twelve  eggs 
well  beaten.  Put  alternately  into  the  butter  the  sugar,  flour,  and 
froth  of  the  eggs,  continuing  to  beat  them  together,  till  all  the  in¬ 
gredients  are  in,  and  the  cake  quite  light.  Add  grated  lemon- 
peel,  a  nutmeg,  and  a  gill  of  brandy. 

This  cake  makes  a  nice  pudding  either  boiled  or  baked  in  a 
large  mould,  served  with  a  sauce  of  butter,  sugar,  and  wine. 

“  Toil  with  pain,  and  you  will  eat  with  pleasure.” 


TEA  BISCUITS  AXD  CAKES.  309 

Almond  Cake. — One  cup  of  butter,  one  and  a  half  cups  of 
powdered  sugar,  three  cups  of  flour,  half  a  cup  of  sour  milk,  half 
a  tea-spoon  of  soda,  one  pound  of  almonds,  and  three  eggs.  Put 
the  almond  meats  in  a  bowl  of  hot  water,  after  which  you  can 
easily  rub  the  skins  off.  Slice  them  and  chop  them  a  little.  When 
the  cake  is  ready  to  pour  into  the  pan,  lay  smoothly  upon  the  bot¬ 
tom  of  the  tin  some  of  the  cake  mixture.  Sprinkle  the  almonds 
,  upon  it,  cover  lightly  with  more  cake,  then  almonds  again,  and  so 
on  until  all  is  in,  covering  the  top  with  the  cake,  as  the  almonds 
would  dry  and  burn  if  on  the  outside. 

The  Creator,  in  obliging  man  to  eat  in  order  to  live,  invites 
him  thereto  by  his  appetite,  and  recompenses  him  for  it  by  the 
pleasure.” — M.  Sayarix. 

Drop  Cake. — Five  cups  of  flour,  three  of  sugar,  one  of  butter, 
one  of  cream,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  saleratus,  and  two  eggs.  Lay 
small  muffin-rings  on  a  baking-tin  previously  buttered,  and  drop 
your  cake  in  each. 

Loaf  Cake. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  and  one  pound  each  of  su¬ 
gar,  butter,  and  fruit ;  half  a  pint  of  yeast,  one  pint  of  milk,  and 
three  eggs. 

Tea  Cake. — Three  cups  of  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of  milk, 
three  eggs,  and  a  little  saleratus  with  flour  to  make  it  nearly  as 
stiff'  as  pound  cake. 

“  No  one  can  bake  cakes  for  the  whole  world.” 

V 

Ginger  Cakes. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  four  eggs,  a  table-spoonful  of 
ginger,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  saleratus. 

Black  Cake. — One  pound  each  of  sugar,  flour,  and  butter,  two 


310  TEA. 

pounds  of  raisins,  two  of  Zante  currants,  and  one  of  citron  ;  ten 
eggs,  two  dozen  pounded  cloves,  besides  mace  and  cinnamon.  Stir 
the  butter  to  a  cream,  beat  the  yelks  light,  mix  them  with  the 
butter,  add  the  sugar,  spice,  juice  of  a  lemon  and  the  grated  peel, 
a  glass  of  rosewater  or  brandy,  and  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs. 
Sprinkle  flour  over  the  fruit  and  put  it  in  the  last  of  all  the  ingre¬ 
dients.  A  gill  of  molasses  improves  the  cake. 

Upon  the  walls  of  the  ample  but  cheerless  kitchen  of  New 
stead  Abbey,  Lord  Byron’s  residence,  was  painted  in  large  let¬ 
ters,  “  WASTE  NOT,  WANT  NOT.” 

Sally  Lunn. — One  quart  of  flour,  one  pint  of  sweet  milk, 
two  table-spoonsful  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  one  cup  of  butter,  and  a 
little  salt.  Sift  into  the  flour  two  tea-spoonsful  of  cream  of  tar¬ 
tar  ;  add  the  mixed  butter,  and  sugar,  and  salt,  and  last  one  tea¬ 
spoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  the  milk.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in 
a  quick  oven.  Sally  Lunn  is  baked  either  in  cups,  or  in  shallow 
baking-tins. 

Soda  Cake. — Beat  together  one  egg  and  one  tea-spoonful  of 
sugar.  Mix  with  these  two  and  a  half  table-spoonsful  of  melted 
butter  and  one  cup  of  sweet  milk,  in  which  dissolve  a  tea-spoon¬ 
ful  of  soda.  Add  one  pint  of  flour  measured  and  then  sifted, 
two  tea-spoonsful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  extract  of  lemon  to  suit 
the  taste.  Bake  quickly  in  a  hot  oven. 

Cream  Cake. — Three  cups  of  sugar,  three  of  thick  sour 
cream,  five  eggs,  two  tea-spoonsful  of  soda,  and  two  of  salt.  Add 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  batter,  and  flavor  to  the  taste.  Bake 
quickly  in  two  three-pint  basins,  or  in  patty-pans. 

Siblett  Cakes  were  cakes  of  dough,  sweetened  and  flavored 
with  caraway  seed,  which  were  made  in  some  parts  of  Great  Brit- 


TEA  BISCUITS  AND  CAKES.  311 

ain  and  sent  as  presents  after  wheat  sowing  time,  by  farmers’ 
wives,  to  their  several  friends  and  relatives. 

Mrs.  Grundy's  Society  CaJce. — Take  a  quart  of  light  sponge, 
work  with  it  three  cups  of  sugar,  one  of  butter,  and  three  eggs, 
beaten  slightly.  Add  a  little  saleratus,  and  half  a  pound  of  stoned 
raisins.  Flavor  to  your  taste ;  stir  in  flour  to  give  it  consist¬ 
ence,  and  set  it  to  rise  in  buttered  tins.  When  light,  bake  in  a 
slow  oven. 

The  Nutmeg  is  the  kernel  of  the  fruit  of  the  nutmeg  tree. 
It  has  three  coverings  ;  the  outer  one,  a  fleshy  pulp,  gradually 
dries,  and  falling  open  discloses  a  scarlet  membrane  called 
Mace.  After  the  fruit  is  plucked  the  outer  covering  is  rejected, 
the  mace  is  carefully  removed,  so  as  to  break  it  as  little  as  possi¬ 
ble  ;  it  is  then  flattened  and  dried  in  the  sun,  and  afterwards 
sprinkled  with  sea  water  to  contribute  to  its  preservation.  The 
nuts  are  dried  either  in  the  sun  or  in  ovens,  and  smoked  until  the 
kernel  rattles  in  the  shell.  They  are  then  broken  open,  the  ker¬ 
nels  taken  out  and  steeped  a  short  time  in  lime  and  water.  After 
which  they  are  packed  for  exportation.  The  small  round  nutmeg 
is  preferred  to  the  oval. 

Vanity  Balls. — Thicken  the  white  of  egg  as  stiff  as  possible 
with  flour  ;  roll  the  paste  out  very  thin,  cut  out  little  cakes  with  a 
small  canister  top  and  bake  quickly  ;  they  will  puff  up  and  form 
a  pretty  variety  in  making  fancy  dishes  for  a  party.  When  eaten 
they  appear  to  be  nothing  but  air. 

Oxford  Cookies  ( without  eggs). — Six  cups  of  flour,  two  of 
sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of  cream,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  sal¬ 
eratus. 

Eub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  then  add  the  other  ingredients. 
Eoll  very  thin  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven. 


312  tea. 

Kate's  Cookies. — Two  cups  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
and  one  and  a  half  cup  of  sweet  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream 
of  tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  two  eggs.  If  you  pre¬ 
fer  to  use  sour  milk  omit  the  cream  of  tartar.  Mix  in  sufficient 
flour  to  stiffen.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Minute  Cookies  {without  eggsi) — One  cup  of  sugar,  half  a 
cup  of  water,  half  a  cup  of  butter,  one  pint  of  flour,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  saleratus  or  soda.  Bub  the  sugar,  butter,  and  flour 
together  ;  then  add  the  soda  dissolved  in  water.  Boll  thin  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Ginger  Nuts. — Two  pounds  ot  flour,  one  of  butter,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  molasses,  two  ounces  of  ginger,  one 
ounce  of  cinnamon,  twelve  dozen  of  allspice,  and  six  dozen  of 
cloves.  Knead  the  dough  a  long  time  and  roll  it  out  thin.  Cut 
it  into  very  small  cakes,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderately  heated 
oven. 

“  Plenty  makes  dainty.” 

Tea  Ginger  Cakes. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
butter,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  four  eggs,  and  as 
much  ginger  as  suits  your  taste.  Dissolve  half  a  teaspoon  of 
soda  in  a  little  milk  or  water,  and  put  one  spoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar  dry  into  the  flour.  Boll  out  the  dough  when  pretty  soft, 
cut  your  cakes,  and  bake  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Cocaigne  is  the  fairy  land  of  cookery  and  gormandizing;  the 
land  where  the  viands  are  offered  all  cooked,  and  the  birds  fall 
all  roasted. 

Molasses  Cookies. — One  cup  of  molasses,  half  a  cup  each  of 
sugar,  butter,  and  sweet  milk,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 


TEA  BISCUITS  AND  CAKES.  313 

Add  a  little  salt,  and  dissolve  half  a  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  in 
the  milk.  Work  these  ingredients  together,  adding  only  flour 
sufficient  to  enable  you  to  roll  the  dough  out  easily.  Bake  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven. 

Julia’s  Cookies. — One  cup  each  of  sugar,  molasses,  and  sweet 
milk,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  butter,  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of 
*  cream  of  tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  a  little  salt.  Put 
the  cream  of  tartar  in  dry. 

“  Hunger  is  worse  than  the  plague.” 

Olecokes. — To  one  pint  of  raised  bread  dough,  add  one  cup  of 
sugar,  and  half  a  cup  of  butter,  with  spice  to  your  taste.  Work 
these  last  well  into  the  dough  and  set  it  to  rise.  When  it  be¬ 
comes  light,  and  while  the  lard  for  frying  them  in,  is  heating, 
roll  out  part  of  the  dough,  cut  it  into  squares  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  size,  lay  two  or  three  raisins  in  each,  and  close  the  dough  over 
them  to  prevent  any  opening.  Before  frying,  try  the  heat  of  the 
lard  first  with  a  small  bit  of  dough ;  if  it  rises  immediately  to 
the  surface,  the  lard  is  sufficiently  hot ;  then  drop  in  your  balls. 

Jane's  Krullers. — Two  cups  of  sugar,  one  of  sour  milk,  four 
eggs,  four  table-spoons  of  melted  butter,  and  one  teaspoon  of  sal¬ 
eratus.  Dissolve  the  last  in  the  milk.  After  the  dough  is  well 
mixed  with  sufficient  flour  to  stiffen,  let  it  stand  an  hour  before 
frying.  If  you  have  no  sour  milk,  put  a  little  vinegar  in  a  cup  of 
sweet  milk,  stirring  it  constantly  until  it  thickens.  Then  add 
the  saleratus. 


314  TEA. 


PRESERVES. 

“  Good  housewife  provides,  ere  a  sickness  do  come, 

Of  sundry  good  things  in  her  house  to  have  some  ; 

Conserves  of  barbary,,  quinces,  and  such 
With  sirops,  that  easeth  the  sickly  so  much; 

Good  broth  and  good  keeping  do  much  now  and  then, 

Good  diet  with  wisdom  best  comforteth  man.” 

Thomas  Tl'sser. 

DIRECTIONS  EOR  TIIE  USE  OF  AIR-TIGHT  OR  SELF-SEALING  CANS  IN 

PRESERVING  FRUITS. 

We  consider  it  one  of  the  greatest  improvements  in  cooking, 
that  a  way  has  been  devised  by  which  fruits  may  he  kept  for 
months,  without  requiring  such  large  quantities  of  sugar,  or  such 
long  boiling  as  was  necessary  after  the  old  method.  When  fruits 
are  properly  prepared  in  the  air-tight  cans  they  retain  in  a  great 
degree  the  flavor  and  aroma  of  fresh  fruit,  and  are  much  less  hurt¬ 
ful  in  the  eating  than  the  richer  preserves. 

The  best  cans  in  use  are  the  “  Self-sealing  Cans,”  prepared 
with  a  wide  metallic  neck  and  screw  cover,  or  with  a  cup-like 
flange  around  the  top,  which  is  to  be  filled  with  cement  or  wax, 
and  the  edge  of  the  cover  set  into  it.  Besides  the  screw-cover 
and  India-rubber  under  it,  it  is  always  necessary  and  safest  to 
melt  bees-wax  and  put  it  upon  every  point  where  the  air  may  possi¬ 
bly  get  in  ;  for  perfect  exclusion  of  air  is  essential  to  the  preserva¬ 
tion  of  the  fruit.  Glass  bottles  may  be  filled  with  fruit,  and  if  you 
stop  them  with  a  cork  dipped  in  melted  bees-wax,  and  pour  a 
coat  of  it  over  and  around  the  top,  it  will  effectually  exclude  the 
air.  Common  earthen  jars  have  also  been  used  with  success  in 
preserving  tomatoes ,  and  we  doubt  not  would  answer  for  other 
fruits.  The  glazing  upon  them  should  be  perfect  without  and 
within,  and  they  should  have  closely-fitting  covers.  The  two- 
quart  size  is  most  convenient,  and  the  higher  and  narrower  the 


PRESERVES.  315 

jars,  the  better.  Take  the  tomatoes  when  fully  ripe,  drop  them  a 
moment  into  hot  water,  to'assist  you  in  taking  off  the  skin.  Do 
not  leave  them  in  the  water  more  than  a  minute  ;  boil  and  salt 
them  without  adding  any  water,  and  when  they  are  cooked  as 
you  would  have  them  for  immediate  use,  scald  your  jars,  and  put 
the  tomatoes  in,  filling  the  jars  evenly,  and  putting  the  covers  on 
loosely.  Then  set  the  jars  into  kettles  of  cold  water  which  should 
•  come  up  high  around  them.  When  the  water  has  boiled  long 
enough  to  set  the  fruit  to  boiling,  lift  the  lid  a  moment  to  allow 
the  air  and  steam  to  escape.  If  the  jar  does  not  seem  quite  full, 
add  enough  of  the  cooked  fruit  to  make  it  so,  and  close  quickly 
that  no  air  may  enter.  Before  pressing  the  cover  down  the  last 
time  wipe  it  clean  and  also  the  jar,  and  lay  under  it  a  round  piece 
of  cotton  flannel  or  thick  white  cloth,  a  little  larger  than  the  lid. 
After  this,  take  the  jars  out  of  the  water,  and  pour  melted  bees¬ 
wax  over  the  cover  ;  press  the  flannel  down  into  any  places  where 
the  cover  does  not  fit  tightly,  pouring  wax  over  it  until  it  is  well 
closed.  After  the  jars  are  wiped  dry,  cover  any  imperfect  places 
in  the  glazing  with  wax.  Where  they  are  intended  to  be  kept  a 
year  or  two,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  rub  a  cloth  dipped  in  melted  wax 
all  over  the  sides  and  bottoms  of  the  jars.  Do  this  while  the  jars 
are  warm.  Thus  prepared,  they  are  perfectly  air-tight. 

These  jars  are  excellent  for  the  sour  fruits  ; — even  better  than 
the  metallic  cans  ;  but  as  they  are  not  quite  as  convenient,  the 
latter  are  to  be  preferred  for  the  sweet  fruits,  as  peaches,  pears, 
berries,  sweet  cherries,  etc. 

Strawberries. — To  one  pound  of  fruit  put  a  pound  of  white 
sugar ;  boil  them  five  minutes  ;  skim  them  and  put  them  in  your 
jars  or  cans ;  set  the  latter  into  jars  of  cold  water  and  finish  as  in 
the  preceding  directions. 

Isaac  Walton  says  of  strawberries,  “  Doubtless  God  could 
have  made  a  better  berry,  but  doubtless  God  never  did.” 


316  TEA. 

Dr.  Johnson  was  very  fond  of  strawberries  and  cream,  also  of 
gooseberries,  and  he  says  of  these  latter  which  were  saved  on  a 
bush  for  him,  that  he  was  neither  too  proud  nor  too  wise  to  gather 
them. 

Cherries. — Stone  the  cherries,  and  to  one  pound  of  the  fruit 
add  a  pound  of  sugar.  Let  them  heat  gradually,  stirring  the 
whole  occasionally  while  the  sugar  is  dissolving.  Skim  it,  and 
take  out  the  cherries  as  soon  as  they  are  well  heated  through ; 
make  the  sirup  as  clear  as  possible  by  skimming ;  put  all  into 
the  jars  or  cans,  and  finisn  according  to  directions  previously 
given. 

Gooseberries  and  Grapes. — These  should  be  preserved  green 
after  the  above  rule  for  cherries. 

Raspberries  and  Blackberries. — To  one  pound  of  fruit  put 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  then  proceed  as  with  cherries  ;  put 
them  up  in  air-tight  jars  or  cans  after  the  directions  given. 

Reaches. — The  Morris  Whites  are  the  best  for  preserving. 
Drop  the  peaches  in  hot  water  for  a  few  minutes,  this  will  enable 
you  to  rub  the  skins  off  easily.  Halve  or  slice  them,  take  out  the 
stones,  weigh  them  ;  to  one  pound  of  fruit  add  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  and  cook  them  a  little  till  the  sugar'  is  well  dissolved  and 
the  fruit  heated  through.  Skim  it  well ;  heat  your  jars  and  put 
the  whole  in ;  then  set  them  into  kettles  of  cold  water  which 
should  come  up  high  around  them.  Proceed  then  as  in  the  pre¬ 
ceding  directions. 

For  preserving  peaches  ivhole, — rub  the  skins  off,  weigh  them, 
and  to  every  pound  of  fruit  allowr  a  pound  of  sugar.  Dissolve  the 
sugar  in  a  little  water,  skim  it  clear ;  then  put  in  the  fruit  to 
boil ;  take  them  out  when  soft,  and  strain  the  sirup  through  a 


PRESERVES.  317 

thin  cloth  that  it  may  be  perfectly  clear.  Boil  the  sirup  until  it 
is  sufficiently  thick,  then  mix  all  together,  and  put  up  the  sweet¬ 
meats  in  jars,  air-tight. 

Superior  Pear  Sweetmeats. — Peel  and  weigh  your  pears ;  boil 
them  slowly  in  water  enough  to  cover  them,  having  in  the  same 
some  scraped  ginger-root,  which  gives  a  fine  flavor  to  the  pear. 

'  When  soft,  take  them  out  carefully  upon  a  platter  to  drain  ;  strain 
the  liquor  and  add  to  it  a  pound  of  good  white  sugar  for  every 
pound  of  fruit ;  stir  it  well,  beat  the  white  of  an  egg,  drop  it  in ; 
skim  until  entirely  clear,  then  add  the  pears,  boil  half  an  hour, 
take  up  the  fruit,  and  put  them  in  jars,  turning  the  sirup  over 
them.  After  two  or  three  days,  pour  off  the  sirup,  scald  it  again, 
and  while  warm  pour  it  over  them.  If  it  then  appear  thick, 
close  your  jars,  tightly  sealing  them  to  exclude  the  air,  and  put 
them  away  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

If  you  have  ginger-sweetmeats,  it  is  very  nice  to  use  two  or 
three  pieces  of  it,  instead  of  the  ginger-root,  for  flavoring  the 
liquid.  If  the  pears  are  large,  it  is  best  to  halve  them ;  if  not, 
they  look  handsome  whole. 

“  The  fruit  on  the  far  side  of  the  edge  is  the  sweetest.” 

Preserved  Quinces. — Wipe  the  quinces  clean ;  remove  the 
decayed  spots,  and  then  pare  them  thin,  saving  the  skins  care¬ 
fully  ;  take  out  the  cores,  which  put  on  with  the  skins  to  boil  in 
considerable  water.  Let  them  boil  until  tender,  so  that  by  strain¬ 
ing  them  you  can  retain  all  the  mucilage.  Strain  them  through 
a  thick  cloth ;  weigh  your  quinces,  and  put  them  on  to  boil  in 
this  mucilage,  adding  also  water  to  cover  them.  They  should 
boil  until  tender  enough  to  be  pricked  with  a  straw,  then  take 
them  out  carefully  on  platters.  Strain  the  liquor  again,  and  wash 
the  kettle  that  it  may  be  free  from  all  sediment. 

Now  put  to  this  sirup  a  pound  of  good  sugar  for  every  pound 


318  TEA. 

of  fruit ;  set  it  over  the  fire  to  heat  gradually,  stirring  it  occa¬ 
sionally  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Skim  it  until  clear,  then 
add  the  fruit,  and  let  it  boil  some  time  until  the  sirup  seems  to 
have  penetrated  the  fruit. 

If  the  sirup  seem  thin,  take  out  the  fruit  again,  and  let 
the  former  boil  down  until  of  proper  consistency ;  then  put  the 
fruit  back  again  that  it  all  may  be  well  mixed ;  put  all  in 
your  jars,  filling  them  full ;  lay  a  piece  of  white  paper  upon  the 
surface,  closely  fitting  the  jar,  and  close  the  latter  as  tightly  as 
possible. 

Currants. — To  two  pounds  of  currants,  put  one  pound  of 
raisins  and  three  of  sugar.  Cook  them  all  together  taking  out 
the  fruit  soon ;  boil  the  sirup  well,  then  add  the  fruit  again,  and 
take  all  up  in  jars.  If  you  prefer  lemons  instead  of  raisins  with 
the  currants,  add  two  or  three  sliced.  Currants  are  good  when 
prepared  either  with  lemons  or  raisins. 

“  Pine-apple  is  great.  She  is  indeed  almost  too  transcendant 
— a  delight,  if  not  sinful,  yet  so  like  sinning,  that  really  a  tender- 
conscienced  person  would,  do  well  to  pause — too  ravishing  for 
mortal  taste,  she  woundeth  and  excoriateth  the  lips  that  approach 
her.  Like  lovers’  kisses,  she  biteth.  She  is  a  pleasure  border¬ 
ing  on  pain  from  the  fierceness  and  insanity  of  her  relish, — but 
she  stoppeth  at  the  palate — she  meddleth  not  Avith  the  appetite, 
and  the  coarsest  hunger  might  barter  her  consistently  for  a  mut¬ 
ton  chop.” 

Pine-apples  preserved. — In  selecting  the  fruit,  choose  those 
of  a  yellowish  color.  Pare  off  the  outer  coverings,  then  Avith  a 
sharp  penknife  cut  out  the  “  eyes,”  as  they  are  called.  Slice 
them  as  evenly  as  possible,  removing  Avith  your  knife  the  hard 


PRESERVES.  319 

tough  substance  from  the  centre  of  each  slice.  Weigh  your  fruit, 
and  then  to  each  pound  of  fruit  add  one  pound  of  sugar. 

Before  putting  your  sugar  to  the  fruit,  boil  the  pine-apples  in 
a  small  quantity  of  water  until  the  fruit  is  soft,  then  take  it  out 
and  skim  the  liquid ;  add  to  it  the  sugar,  let  it  dissolve,  and 
when  hot,  skim  it  clear  and  add  the  fruit.  They  will  not  need 
to  cook  long  after  this.  When  cool,  put  it  into  jars  ;  if  the 
’  thickest  of  the  sirup  settle  at  the  bottom  of  the  jar,  stir  it  up 
with  a  spoon. 

Preserved  Citron  or  Watermelon. — Cut  the  citron  into  such 
shapes  as  you  like,  peel  it  nicely  and  weigh  it ;  then  boil  it  in 
water  sufficient  to  cover  it,  throwing  a  few  peach  leaves  into  the 
water  to  give  a  green  look  to  the  citron  ;  also  a  little  hit  of  alum 
to  harden  it.  When  the  fruit  is  tender  enough  to  prick  easily, 
take  it  up,  throw  the  water  away,  and  to  fresh  water  slice  a  lemon 
or  two  as  you  may  fancy ;  boil  this  till  tender,  take  it  out,  and 
add  the  sugar  to  the  water,  a  pound  for  every  pound  of  the  fruit ; 
make  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sirup  to  cover  the  fruit,  cook  it  well, 
and  when  clear  add  the  fruit  and  lemons  ;  let  them  get  well  pen¬ 
etrated  with  the  sirup ;  take  the  fruit  up  in  jars,  boil  the  sirup 
until  thick,  then  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  A  nice  dish  of  citron  may 
be  made  from  the  dried  imported  fruit.  Boil  it  in  a  little  water 
until  it  pricks  tender  ;  then  take  it  out,  and  make  a  sirup  of  three- 
quarters  or  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  the  fruit,  and 
pour  it  over  it.  To  prepare  citron  for  cake,  preserve  the  cit¬ 
ron  according  to  the  rules  before  mentioned,  but  instead  of  closing 
the  jars,  leave  them  open  for  the  air  to  enter.  The  preserve  will 
then  dry  gradually,  and  form  a  very  excellent  substitute  for  the 
West  India  citron,  sold  for  this  purpose. 

Preserved  PumpTcin. — To  seven  pounds  of  pumpkin  take  five 
of  sugar,  four  lemons,  and  two  ounces  of  green  ginger-root.  Cut  the 


320  TEA. 

pumpkin  in  slices  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  of  any  form  you 
fancy, — a  square,  or  a  diamond  shape  does  very  well.  Boil  the 
pumpkins  in  the  sirup  until  tender ;  then  take  up  the  pieces. 
Slice  the  lemon  and  ginger  root  very  thin,  and  scald  them  in  a 
little  clear  water,  after  which  add  them  to  the  sirup.  Boil  the 
latter  down  until  it  is  clear  enough  to  keep  without  fermenting, 
and  then  add  the  pumpkins  to  it. 

Oranges  preserved. — Slice  them  and  boil  them  in  a  little  water 
until  the  skins  prick  easily.  Take  them  out  and  add  to  the 
water  one  pound  of  white  sugar  to  every  pound  of  the  oranges. 
Cook  the  sirup  well,  skimming  it  until  clear ;  put  the  oranges  in 
it  again  for  a  short  time,  then  take  the  whole  up  in  the  jars,  ex¬ 
cluding  the  air  according  to  the  directions  given  at  the  head  of 
this  section. 

Plums. — For  preserving,  take  good  large  plums  ;  pour  boiling 
water  over  them  to  assist  in  removing  the  skins,  but  do  not  leave 
them  in  the  water.  For  every  pound  of  plums  dissolve  a  pound 
of  sugar  in  a  little  water  ;  when  skimmed  clear  add  the  plums  ; 
boil  until  done,  take  them  out  carefully  that  they  may  not  break ; 
boil  the  sirup  some  time,  then  put  back  the  plums  a  few  moments 
to  mix  all  together;  take  the  whole  up  in  jars,  sealing  them 
air-tight. 

Stewed  Prunes. — Wash  the  prunes  in  tepid  water  several 
times  changed  ;  to  one  pound  add  one  pint  of  water,  and  boil 
very  gently  until  tender,  which  may  require  more  than  two  hours. 
During  the  boiling,  keep  them  carefully  covered.  Sugar  to  suit 
the  taste  should  be  added  after  they  have  boiled  about  half  the 
above  time. 

Baked  Quinces. — Baked  quinces  are  nice  when  eaten  warm ; 


PRESERVES.  321. 

remove  the  skins  .after  they  are  cooked,  slice  them  and  serve  with 
cream  and  sugar. 

Boiled  Pears. — Boil  them  whole,  without  peeling,  until  they 
are  tender,  adding  to  them,  when  half-done,  sufficient  sugar  to 
sweeten  to  your  taste.  This  dish,  like  the  preceding,  is  nice  eaten 
warm  for  dessert  or  at  tea. 

Gooseberries  or  Currants  bottled. — Gather  them  when  of  full 
size,  hut  still  green ;  fill  the  bottles  nearly  full,  and  turn  in  clear, 
soft  water ;  then  place  the  bottles  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water  over 
the  fire.  Keep  them  on  a  few  moments  after  the  water  comes  to 
the  boil,  then  cork  and  seal  them,  and  bury  them  in  a  cool  cellar 
with  their  necks  downward. 

Whence  various  Fruits  ivere  obtained. — The  citron  came  from 
Media,  the  pomegranate  from  Cyprus,  the  plum  from  Syria,  the 
peach  and  walnut  from  Persia,  the  cherry  and  filbert  from  Pontus, 
the  chestnut  from  Castana  in  Asia  Minor,  the  quince  from  Sidon, 
the  olive  and  fig  from  Greece,  as  are  the  best  apples  and  pears, 
though  also  found  wild  in  France  and  even  in  Great  Britain.  The 
apricot  is  from  Armenia.  It  was  first  known  in  Europe  in  the 
sixteenth  century ;  an  old  French  writer  remarks  that  it  was 
“  originally  no  larger  than  a  damson  ;  our  gardeners  have  im¬ 
proved  it  to  the  perfection  of  its  present  richness  and  size.” 

Fruits  in  Henry  Eighth's  time. — “Among  the  items  in  the 
privy-purse  expenses  of  Henry  VIII.,  in  1532,  are  mentioned  re¬ 
wards  paid  to  sundry  poor  women  for  bringing  the  King  presents 
of  apples,  pears,  barberries,  peaches,  artichokes,  filberts,  and  other 
fruits.  His  gardeners  from  Beaulieu,  Greenwich,  and  Hampton, 
bring  him  grapes,  oranges,  cucumbers,  melons,  cherries,  straw¬ 
berries,  pomegranates,  citrons,  plums,  and  lettuces  ;  in  short,  al- 
21 


322  TEA. 

most  every  kind  of  luxury  that  could  be  supplied  for  the  royal 
table  in  modern  times.” — Miss  Strickland. 

“  Bear  me,  Pomona !  to  thy  Citron  groves ; 

To  where  the  Lemons  and  the  piercing  Lime, 

With  the  deep  Orange,  glowing  through  the  green, 

Their  lighter  glories  blend.  Lay  me  reclined 
Beneath  the  spreading  Tamarind  thai  shakes, 

Fann’d  by  the  breeze,  its  fever  cooling  fruit. 

*  *  *  *  Lead  me  thro’  the  maze 

Embowering  endless,  of  the  Indian  Fig ; 

Oh,  stretched  amid  these  orchards  of  the  sun, 

Give  me  to  drain  the  Cocoa's  milky  bowl, 

And  from  the  Palm  to  draw  its  fresh’ning  wine ! 

*  *  *  *  Nor,  on  its  slender  twigs, 

Low  bending,  be  the  full  Pomegranate  scorned ; 

Nor,  creeping  thro’  the  woods,  the  gelid  race 
Of  berries.  Oft  in  humble  station  dwells 
Unboastful  worth,  above  fastidious  pomp. 

Witness,  thou  best  Anana,  thou  the  pride 
Of  vegetable  life,  beyond  whate’er 
The  Poets  imaged  in  the  golden  age. 

Quick  let  me  strip  thee  of  thy  tufty  coat, 

Spread  thy  ambrosial  stores,  and  feast  with  Jove.” — Thomson. 


SUPPERS  AND  FETES. 

The  word  Supper  has  various  significations.  It  applies  to  the 
third  meal  of  the  Saxons  and  Normans  in  Old  England,  taken  at 
five  o’clock,  which  resembled  the  dinner  both  in  quality  and 
abundance  ;  only,  if  it  were  possible,  exceeding  it  in  the  latter 
particular.  It  applies  also  to  the  evening  meal  of  the  laboring 
classes  of  that  and  other  countries, — which  consists  of  hot  meats 
and  vegetables,  and  is  eaten  at  sunset  or  just  at  evening,  when  the 
day’s  labors  are  over.  Among  the  rural  entertainments  for  this 
class  which  were  formerly  so  general  in  Britain,  wrere  the  harvest- 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  FETES,  ETC.  323 

supper ,  the  mel-suppcr,  and  the  churn  or  kern-supper.  These  were 
very  cheerful  occasions,  serving  to  enliven  the  toil  of  the  laborers, 
and  stimulate  them  to  further  exertior..  Mel  signified  meal ;  it 
was  also  the  name  of  the  instrument  by  which  the  corn  was  re¬ 
duced  to  meal  in  a  mortar.  The  churn-supper  was  provided  when 
all  was  shorn,  but  the  mel  when  all  was  got  in.  At  the  churn 
supper  a  great  quantity  of  cream  was  produced  in  a  churn,  and 
circulated  in  dishes  to  each  of  the  rustic  company,  who  ate  it  with 
bread. 

Another  view  of  supper  belongs  to  that  state  of  society  where 
the  dinner  is  taken  after  the  close  of  the  day.  Here  the  supper 
is  provided  at  a  late  hour  in  the  evening,  sometimes  towards  mid¬ 
night,  and  consists  either  of  cold  roast  meats, — game  hot  or  cold, 
or  oysters, — salads,  sandwiches,  biscuits,  etc.,  with  various  bev¬ 
erages.  To  this  class  belong  the  “  soupers  ”  vThich  the  French 
delight  in,  and  which  they  render  so  attractive,  not  by  the  profu¬ 
sion  of  the  table,  but  by  their  vivacity  and  conversational  abilities. 
Of  Madame  Geoffrin’s  “  petit  soupers  ”  of  the  last  century,  Mar- 
montel  says :  “  There  were  no  luxuries  ;  a  fowl,  spinach,  and  pan¬ 
cakes,  constituting  the  usual  fare.  The  society  was  not  numer¬ 
ous  ;  there  met  together  only  five  or  six  of  her  particular  friends 
who  were  suited  to  each  other,  and  therefore  enjoyed  themselves.” 

The  third  form  of  supper  is  the  entertainment  given  at  even¬ 
ing  parties,  balls,  etc.,  at  which  a  greater  display  is  allowable 
tlian  at  any  other.  Confectionery  in  most  elegant  forms  and  de¬ 
vices  is  exhibited,  and  contributes,  with  fruits  and  fiowers,  to  cap¬ 
tivate  the  eye  and  delight  the  other  senses. 

It  is  not  our  intention  to  treat  of  supper  in  detail,  since  all 
the  dishes  which  belong  to  it  in  either  of  the  acceptations  above 
considered,  have  been  already  described  in  this  work.  We  sub¬ 
join,  however,  some  anecdotes  connected  with  it  and  a  few  fetes 
for  the  amusement  of  our  readers  ;  for  their  instruction,  we  will  re¬ 
mind  them  of  the  advice  which  Don  Quixote  gave  Sancho  Panza : 


324  TEA. 

“  Eat  little  at  dinner  and  less  at  supper,  for  the  health  of  the 
whole  body  is  tempered  in  the  laboratory  of  the  stomach.” 

Trial  of  Feasting. — “‘What  rare  sporte  we  had,’  sayth 
father,  ‘  one  Christmas,  with  a  mummery  we  called  the  “  Triall  of 
Feasting.”  Dinner  and  supper  were  brought  up  before  my  Lord 
Chief  Justice,  charg’d  with  murder.  Their  accomplices  were 
Plum-pudding,  Mince-pye,  Surfeit,  Drunkenness,  and  such  like. 
Deing  condemned  to  hang  by  ye  neck,  T,  Avho  was  Supper,  stuft 
out  with  I  cannot  tell  you  how  manie  pillow's,  began  to  call  lusti- 
lie  for  a  confessor  ;  and  on  his  stepping  forthe,  commenct  a  list 
of  all  ye  fitts,  convulsions,  spasms,  payns  in  ye  head  and  so 
forthe,  I  had  inflicted  on  this  one  and  t’other.  ‘  Alas,  good 
father,’  says  I,  ‘  King  John  lay’d  his  death  at  my  door ;  indeed, 
there’s  scarce  a  royall  or  noble  house  that  hath  not  a  charge 
against  me  ;  and  I’m  sorilie  afraid  (giving  a  poke  at  a  fat  priest 
that  sate  at  my  lord  cardinal’s  elbow)  I  shall  have  the  death  of 
that  holy  man  to  answer  for.’ 

“Erasmus  laughed  and  sayd,  ‘A  monk  hearing  Willibald 
Pirkheimer  praise  me  somewhat  lavishly  to  another,  could  not 
avoid  expressing  by  his  looks  his  dissatisfaction  ;  and  on  being 
askt  whence  they  arose,  confest  he  cd  not  with  patience  hear  y° 
commendation  of  a  man  so  notoriously  fond  of  eating  fowls. 
“Well,  then,”  quoth  Willibald,  “tell  me,  now,  dear  father,  is  it 
then  a  sin  to  eat  fowls  ?  ”  “  Most  assuredly  it  is,”  says  the  monk, 

‘if you  indulge  in  them  to  gluttony.”  “  Ah,  if,  if!  ”  quoth  Pirk¬ 
heimer.  ‘  If  stands  stiff,’  as  the  Lacedemonians  told  Philip  of 
Macedon,  and  ’tis  not  by  eating  bread  alone,  my  dear  father,  you 
have  acquired  that  huge  paunch  of  yours.  I  fancy  if  all  the  fat 
fowls  that  have  gone  into  it,  coulde  raise  their  voices  and  cackle  at 
once,  they  would  make  noise  enow  to  drown  ye  drums  and  trum¬ 
pets  of  an  army.”  Well  may  Luther  say,’  continued  Erasmus, 
laughing,  ‘  that  their  fasting  is  easier  to  them  than  our  eating  to 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  PETES,  ETC.  325 

us ;  seeing  that  every  man  J ack  of  them  hath  to  his  evening 
meal  two  quarts  of  beer,  a  quart  of  wine,  and  as  manie  as  he  can 
eat  of  spice  cakes,  the  better  to  relish  his  drink.  ’  ” — Household 
of  Sir  Thomas  More. 

SUPPERS  OF  ALEXANDER  THE  GREAT. 

It  was  not  till  late  in  the  evening,  and  when  night  was  come 
on,  that  he  took  his  meal,  and  then  he  eat  in  a  recumbent  posture. 
He  was  very  attentive  to  his  guests  at  table,  that  they  might  be 
served  equally,  and  none  neglected.  His  entertainments  lasted 
many  hours ;  but  lengthened  out  by  conversation  rather  than 
drinking,  every  cup  introducing  some  long  discourse.  His  con¬ 
versation  in  many  respects  was  more  agreeable  than  that  of  most 
princes,  for  he  was  not  deficient  in  the  graces  of  society. 

He  had  so  little  regard  for  delicacies,  that  when  the  choicest 
fruit  and  fish  were  brought  him  from  distant  countries  and  seas, 
he  would  send  some  to  each  of  his  friends,  and  he  very  often  left 
none  for  himself.  Yet  there  was  always  a  magnificence  at  his 
table,  and  the  expense  rose  with  his  fortune,  till  it  came  to  ten 
thousand  drachmas  for  one  entertainment.  There  it  stood  ;  and 
he  did  not  suffer  those  that  invited  him  to  exceed  that  sum. 

Julius  Caesar  was  very  indifferent  with  respect  to  diet.  Hap¬ 
pening  to  sup  with  Valerius  Leo,  a  friend  of  his,  at  Milan,  there 
was  sweet  ointment  poured  upon  the  asparagus,  instead  of  oil. 
Caesar  ate  of  it  freely,  notwithstanding,  and  afterwards  rebuked 
his  friends  for  expressing  their  dislike  of  it.  “  It  was  enough,” 
said  he,  “  to  forbear  eating,  if  it  was  disagreeable  to  you ;  he 
who  finds  fault  with  any  rusticity,  is  himself  a  rustic.” 

RIVAL  FEASTS  OF  ANTONY  AND  CLEOPATRA. 

“  Cleopatra  was  no  sooner  landed  than  Antony  sent  to  com¬ 
pliment  and  invite  her  to  supper.  But  she  answered  his  depu- 


TEA. 


326 

ties,  that  she  should,  be  very  glad  to  regale  him  herself,  and  that 
she  would  expect  him  in  the  tents  she  had  caused  to  be  got 
ready  upon  the  banks  of  the  river.  He  made  no  difficulty  to  go 
thither  and  found  the  preparations  of  a  magnificence  not  to  be 
expressed.  The  lights  were  disposed  with  abundance  of  art,  and 
the  brilliancy  was  such  that  they  made  midnight  seem  bright  day. 

“  Antony  invited  her  in  turn  for  the  next  day.  But  in  spite  of 
his  utmost  endeavors  to  exceed  her  in  this  entertainment,  he  con¬ 
fessed  himself  overcome,  as  well  in  the  splendor,  as  disposition 
of  the  feast ;  and  was  the  first  to  rally  the  parsimony  and  plainness 
of  his  own,  in  comparison  with  the  sumptuousness  and  elegance 
of  Cleopatra’s. 

“  Great  feasts  were  made  every  day.  Some  new  banquet 
still  outdid  that  which  preceded  it,  and  she  seemed  to  study  to 
excel  herself.  Antony,  at  a  feast  to  which  she  had  invited  him, 
was  astonished  at  seeing  the  riches  displayed  on  all  sides,  and 
especially  at  the  great  number  of  gold  cups  enriched  with  jewels, 
and  ivrought  by  the  most  excellent  workmen.  She  told  him  with 
a  disdainful  air,  that  those  were  but  trifles,  and  made  him  a 
present  of  them.  The  next  day  the  banquet  was  still  more 
superb.  Antony,  according  to  custom,  had  brought  a  good  num¬ 
ber  of  guests  along  with  him,  all  officers  of  rank  and  distinction. 
She  gave  them  all  the  vessels  and  plate  of  gold  and  silver  used  at 
the  entertainment.” 

In  this  absurd  manner  was  the  strife  kept  up,  until  Cleopatra 
declared  she  “  could  spend  a  million  on  herself ;  ”  upon  which  she 
dissolved,  and  drank  off  a  pearl,  worth  nearly  that  money! 

SUFFERS  OF  THE  COUNT  OF  FOIX  IN  1350. 

“  At  midnight,  when  the  Count  of  Foix  came  out  of  his  cham¬ 
ber  into  the  hall  to  supper,  he  had  ever  before  him  twelve  torches 
burning,  borne  by  twelve  valets  standing  before  his  table  all  sup¬ 
per.  They  gave  a  great  light,  and  the  hall  was  ever  full  of 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  FETES,  ETC.  327 

knights  and  squires,  and  many  other  tables  were  dressed  to  sup 
who  would.  There  was  none  should  speak  to  him  at  his  table 
hut  if  he  were  called.  His  meat  was  lightly — wild  fowl,  the  legs 
and  wings  only,  and  in  the  day  he  did  eat  and  drink  but  little. 
He  had  great  pleasure  in  harmony  of  instruments  ;  he  would  have 
songs  sung  before  him.  He  would  gladly  see  conceits  and  fan¬ 
tasies  at  his  table,  and  when  he  had  seen  it,  then  he  would  send 
it  to  the  other  tables  bravely ;  all  this  I  considered  and  advised. 

“  Gaston,  his  son,  was  used  to  set  down  all  his  service  and 
‘  to  make  the  essay  ;  ’  that  is,  to  taste  the  dishes,  to  prevent  the 
poisoning  of  the  Prince.” — Froissart. 

The  most  luxurious  gourmand  of  the  reign  of  J ames  the  First 
of  England,  was  the  Earl  of  Carlisle,  (Sir  James  Hay.)  He  gave 
a  banquet  to  the  French  ambassador,  when  fish  of  such  huge  size 
were  served  up,  that  he  was  obliged  to  have  dishes  made  ex¬ 
pressly  for  them. 

The  Earl  obtained  notoriety  as  the  “  introducer  of  ante- 
suppers  ;  ”  that  is,  at  the  first  entrance  of  the  guests,  the  hoard 
was  covered  with  dishes  as  high  as  a  tall  man  could  reach,  filled 
with  the  choicest  viands,  cold ;  when  the  company  were  seated, 
these  dishes  were  removed  to  make  way  for  equally  numerous  and 
corresponding  service  of  hot  meats 

ENTERTAINMENTS  IN  THE  TIME  OF  CHARLES  THE  FIRST. 

“  There  was  a  costly  magnificence  in  the  fetes  at  York  House, 
the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Buckingham,  of  which  few  are 
aware  ;  they  eclipsed  the  splendor  of  the  French  court ;  for  Bas- 
sompierre,  in  one  of  his  despatches,  declares  he  had  never  wit¬ 
nessed  similar  magnificence.  He  describes  the  vaulted  apart¬ 
ments,  the  ballets  at  supper  which  were  proceeding  between  the 
services,  with  various  representations  and  theatrical  changes,  the 
order  of  the  tables,  and  the  music.” 


328  TEA. 

“  The  following  extract  from  a  manuscript  letter  of  the  time, 
conveys  a  lively  account  of  one  of  these  fetes : 

“‘Last  Sunday,  at  night,  the  Duke’s  grace  entertained  their 
majesties  and  the  French  ambassador  at  York  House,  with  great 
feasting  and  show,  where  all  things  came  down  in  clouds ; 
amongst  which,  one  rare  device  was  a  representation  of  the 
French  King  and  the  two  Queens,  with  their  chiefest  attend¬ 
ants,  and  so  to  the  life,  that  the  Queen’s  majesty  could  name 
them. 

“  ‘It  was  four  o’clock  in  the  morning  before  they  parted,  and 
then  the  King  and  Queen  and  others  lodged  there. 

“  ‘  Some  estimate  this  entertainment  at  four  or  five  thousand 
pounds.’  At  another  time  ‘  the  King  and  Queen  were  entertained 
at  supper  at  Gerbier,  the  Duke’s  painter’s  house,  which  could  not 
stand  him  in  less  than  a  thousand  pounds.’ 

“  The  literary  Duchess  of  Newcastle  mentions  that  an  enter¬ 
tainment  of  this  sort,  which  the  Duke  gave  to  Charles  the  First, 
cost  her  lord  between  four  and  five  thousand  pounds. 

“  Such  were  the  magnificent  entertainments,  which  though 
modern  refinement  may  affect  to  despise  them,  modern  splendor 
never  reached,  even  in  thought.” — D’Iseaeli. 

A  MAT  DAT  COLLATION  GIVEN  BT  AN  ENGLISH  AMBASSADOE  IN 
CEOMWELL’S  TIME  TO  CHEISTINA,  QUEEN  OP  SWEDEN. 

“This  being  May-Day,  Wliitelocke,  according  to  the  invitation 
he  had  made  to  the  Queen,  put  her  in  mind  of  it,  that  as  she  was 
his  mistress,  and  this  May-day,  he  was  by  the  custom  of  England 
to  wait  upon  her  to  take  the  air,  and  to  treat  her  with  some  little 
collation,  as  her  servant. 

“  The  Queen  said  the  wTeather  was  very  cold,  yet  she  was  very 
willing  to  bear  him  company  after  the  English  mode.  With  the 
Queen  were  Woolf  eld  t,  Tott,  and  five  of  her  ladies.  Wliitelocke 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  FETES,  ETC.  329 

brought  them  to  his  collation  which  he  had  commanded  his  ser¬ 
vants  to  prepare  in  the  best  manner  they  could,  and  altogether 
after  the  English  fashion. 

“At  the  table  with  the  Queen  sat  La  Belle  Comtesse,  the  Count- 
esse  Gabriel  Oxenstierne,  Woolfeldt,  Tott,  and  Whitelocke;  the 
other  ladies  sat  in  another  room.  Their  meat  was  such  fowl  as 
could  be  gotten,  dressed  after  the  English  fashion,  and  with  Eng¬ 
lish  sauces,  creams,  puddings,  custards,  tarts,  tanseys,  English 
apples,  bon  chretien  pears,  cheese,  butter,  neat’s  tongue,  potted 
venison,  and  sweetmeats,  brought  out  from  England,  as  his  sack 
and  claret  also  was  ;  his  beer  was  also  brewed,  and  his  bread 
made  by  his  own  servants  in  his  own  house,  after  the  English 
manner;  the  Queen  seemed  highly  pleased  with  this  treatment; 
some  of  her  company  said,  she  did  eat  and  drink  more  at  it  than 
she  used  to  do  in  three  or  four  days  at  her  own  table. 

“  The  entertainment  was  as  full  and  noble  as  the  place  would 
afford,  and  as  Whitelocke  could  make  it ;  and  so  well  ordered  and 
contrived,  that  the  Queen  said  she  had  never  seen  any  like  it ;  she 
was  pleased  so  far  to  play  the  good  housewife  as  to  inquire  how 
the  butter  could  be  so  fresh  and  sweet  and  yet  brought  out  of 
England.  Whitelocke,  from  his  cooks,  satisfied  her  majesty’s  in¬ 
quiry,  that  they  put  the  salt  butter  into  milk,  where  it  lay  all  night, 
and  the  next  day  would  eat  fresh  and  sweet  as  this  did,  and  as 
any  butter  new  made  ;  and  commended  her  majesty’s  good  house¬ 
wifery,  who  to  express  her  contentment  to  this  collation,  was  full 
of  pleasantness  and  gayety  of  spirits,  both  in  supper  time  and 
afterwards ;  among  other  frolics  she  commanded  Whitelocke  to 
teach  her  ladies  the  English  salutation,  which  after  some  pretty 
defences,  their  lips  obeyed,  and  Whitelocke  most  readily.  She 
highly  commended  Whitelocke’s  music  of  the  trumpets,  which 
sounded  all  supper  time,  and  her  discourse  was  all  of  mirth  and 
drollery,  wherein  Whitelocke  endeavored  to  answer  her,  and  the 
rest  of  the  company  did  their  parts. 


330  TEA. 

“It  was  late  before  she  returned  to  the  castle,  whither  White- 
locke  waited  on  her,  and  she  discoursed  a  little  with  him  about 
his  business  and  the  time  of  his  audience,  and  gave  him  many 
thanks  for  his  noble  treatment  of  her  and  her  company. 

“  Two  days  after  this  entertainment,  Mons.  Woolfeldt  being 
invited  by  Wliitelocke,  told  him  that  the  Queen  was  extremely 
pleased  with  his  entertainment  of  her.  Whitelocke  excused  the 
meanness  of  it  for  her  majesty ;  Woolfeldt  replied,  that  both  the 
Queen  and  all  her  company  esteemed  it  as  the  handsomest  and 
noblest  that  they  ever  saw  ;  and  the  Queen  after  that  would  drink 
no  other  wine  but  Whitelocke’s,  and  kindly  accepted  the  neat’s 
tongues,  potted  venison,  and  other  cakes,  which  upon  her  com¬ 
mendation  of  them,  Whitelocke  sent  unto  her  majesty.” — Gentle¬ 
man's  Mag.,  1822. 

DEAN  SWIFT’S  BECKONING  WITH  HIS  GUESTS. 

“  One  evening,”  relates  Pope,  “  Gay  and  I  went  to  see  him ; 
you  know  how  intimately  we  were  all  acquainted.  On  our  com¬ 
ing  in,  ‘  Heyday,  gentlemen,’  says  the  doctor,  ‘  what’s  the  mean¬ 
ing  of  this  visit  ?  How  came  you  to  leave  the  great  lords  that 
you  are  so  fond  of,  to  come  hither  to  see  a  poor  dean  ?  ’  ‘  Because  we 
would  rather  see  you  than  any  of  them !’  ‘  Ay ;  any  one  that  did 
not  know  you  so  well  as  I  do  might  believe  you.  But  since  you 
are  come  I  must  get  some  supper  for  you,  I  suppose.’  ‘  No,  doc¬ 
tor,  we  have  supped  already.’  ‘  Supped  already ;  that’s  impossible ! 
why  ’tis  not  eight  o’clock  yet.  That’s  very  strange ;  but  if  you 
had  not  supped  I  must  have  got  something  for  you. — Let  me 
see ;  what  should  I  have  had  ?  A  couple  of  lobsters ;  ay,  that 
would  have  done  very  well — two  shillings  ;  tarts,  a  shilling ;  but 
you  will  drink  a  glass  of  wine  with  me,  though  you  supped  so 
much  before  your  usual  time  only  to  spare  my  pocket  ?  ’  ‘No,  we 
would  rather  talk  with  you  than  drink  with  you.’  ‘  But  if  you 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  FETES,  ETC.  331 

had  supped  ■with  me,  as  in  all  reason  you  ought  to  have  done,  you 
must  then  have  drank  with  me.  A  bottle  of  wine,  two  shillings  ; 
two  and  two  are  four,  and  one  are  five ;  just  two  and  sixpence  a 
piece.  There,  Pope,  there’s  half  a  crown  for  you ;  and  there’s 
another  for  you,  sir ;  for  I  won’t  save  any  thing  by  you,  I  am  de¬ 
termined.’  This  was  all  said  and  done  with  his  usual  serious¬ 
ness  on  such  occasions ;  and  in  spite  of  every  thing  we  could  say 
j  to  the  contrary,  he  actually  obliged  us  to  take  the  money.” 

A  FjfcTE  GIVEN  BY  THE  PRINCE  REGENT  AT  CARLETON  PALACE. 

An  evening  party  or  fete,  given  by  the  Prince  Regent  at 
Carleton  Palace,  in  1811,  will  be  within  the  recollection  of  many 
of  our  readers  ;  nothing  so  gorgeous  had  then  been  heard  of. 

The  tables  were  so  arranged,  branching  off  from  a  centre  in 
various  temporary  erections,  that  at  supper  the  Prince  could  see 
all  his  company,  whilst  they  in  return  had  a  view  of  their  royal 
and  magnificent  host.  Ilis  own  table,  accommodated  one  hun¬ 
dred  and  twenty-two  persons,  out  of  the  two  thousand  who  re¬ 
ceived  cards  of  invitation. 

The  great  novelty  in  this  gorgeous  entertainment,  was  a  purl¬ 
ing  stream  of  pure  water  running  down  the  centre  of  the  supper- 
table  which  flowed  from  a  silver  fountain  at  the  head,  and  fell  in 
a  cascade  at  the  outlet.  The  mimic  banks  were  adorned  with  moss 
and  flowers,  and  small  gold  and  silver  fish  were  seen  glistening 
here  and  there  in  the  stream,  which  was  crossed  at  intervals  with 
little  fantastic  bridges. 

A  PARISIAN  SURPRISE— BANQUET  TO  LA  FAYETTE. 

“Just  before  La  Fayette’s  death,  he  was  invited  in  company 
with  the  American  ambassador,  and  several  other  Americans,  to 
the  house  of  that  distinguished  Frenchman,  Marbois,  who  was 
the  French  secretary  of  Legation  here  during  the  revolution. 


I 


332  TEA. 

At  the  supper  hour  the  company  were  shown  into  a  room  which 
contrasted  quite  oddly  with  the  Parisian  elegance  of  the  other 
apartments  where  they  had  spent  the  evening.  A  low  hoarded, 
painted  ceiling,  with  large  beams,  a  single  small,  uncurtained 
window,  with  numerous  small  doors,  as  Avell  as  the  general  style 
of  the  whole,  gave,  at  first,  the  idea  of  the  kitchen,  or  largest  room 
of  a  Dutch  or  Belgian  farm-house.  On  a  long  rough  table  was  a 
repast,  just  as  little  in  keeping  with  the  refined  kitchens  of  Paris 
as  the  room  was  with  its  architecture.  It  consisted  of  a  large 
dish  of  meat,  uncouth-looking  pastry,  and  wine  in  decanters  and 
bottles,  accompanied  by  glasses  and  silver  mugs,  such  as  indicat¬ 
ed  other  habits  and  tastes  than  those  of  modern  Paris.  ‘  Do  you 
know  where  we  now  are?’  said  the  host  to  La  Fayette  and  his 
companions.  They  paused  for  a  few  minutes  in  surprise.  They 
had  seen  something  like  this  before,  but  when  and  where  ?  ‘  Ah, 

the  seven  doors  and  one  window,’  said  La  Fayette,  £and  the 
silver  camp-goblets,  such  as  the  marshals  of  France  used  in  my 
youth!  We  are  at  Washington’s  head-quarters  on  the  .Hudson 
fifty  years  ago !  ’  ” — Account  given  by  one  of  the  Guests ,  related 
by  G.  C.  Verplanck. 

SYDNEY  SMITH’S  SUPPERS. 

“  The  pleasantest  society  at  his  house  was  to  be  found  in  the 
little  suppers  which  he  established  once  a  week ;  giving  a  gen¬ 
eral  invitation  to  about  twenty  or  thirty  persons,  who  used  to 
come  as  they  pleased.  At  these  suppers,  there  was  no  attempt  at 
display,  nothing  to  tempt  the  palate ;  but  they  were  most  eagerly 
sought  after ;  there  was  no  restraint  but  that  of  good  taste,  no 
formality,  a  happy  mixture  of  men  and  women, — the  foolish  and 
the  wise,  the  grave  and  the  gay.” 

EVENING  MEAL  OP  CEDRIC  THE  SAXON. 

“  In  a  hall  the  height  of  which  was  greatly  disproportioned 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  PETES,  ETC.  333 

to  its  extreme  length  and  width,  a  long  oaken  table,  formed  of 
planks  rough-heAvn  from  the  forest,  and  which  had  scarcely  re¬ 
ceived  any  polish,  stood  ready  prepared  for  the  evening  meal  of 
Cedric  the  Saxon.  The  roof  composed  of  beams  and  rafters,  had 
nothing  to  divide  the  apartment  from  the  sky  excepting  the  plank¬ 
ing  and  thatch ;  there  was  a  huge  fireplace  at  either  end  of  the 
hall,  hut  as  the  chimneys  were  constructed  in  a  very  clumsy  man¬ 
ner,  at  least  as  much  of  the  smoke  found  its  way  into  the  apart¬ 
ment,  as  escaped  by  the  proper  vent.  The  floor  was  composed  of 
earth  mixed  with  lime,  trodden  into  a  hard  substance.  For  about 
one  quarter  of  the  length  of  the  apartment,  the  floor  was  raised 
by  a  step,  and  this  space,  called  a  dais,  was  occupied  only  by  the 
principal  members  of  the  family  and  visitors  of  distinction.  For 
this  purpose,  a  table  richly  covered  with  scarlet  cloth  was  placed 
transversely  across  the  platform,  from  the  middle  of  which,  ran 
the  longer  and  lower  board,  at  which  the  domestics  and  inferior 
persons  fed,  down  towards  the  bottom  of  the  hall.  The  whole 
resembled  the  form  of  the  letter  T. 

“  Massive  chairs  and  settees  of  carved  oak  were  placed  upon 
the  dais,  and  over  these  seats  and  the  more  elevated  table  was 
fastened  a  canopy  of  cloth,  which  served  in  some  degree  to  protect 
the  dignitaries  who  occupied  that  distinguished  station  from  the 
weather,  and  especially  from  the  rain.  The  walls  of  this  upper 
end  of  the  hall,  as  far  as  the  dais  extended,  were  covered  with 
hangings  or  curtains,  and  upon  the  floor  there  was  a  carpet  of 
rather  gaudy  coloring.  Over  the  lower  range  of  table  the  roof 
had  no  covering;  the  rough  plastered  Avails  were  left  bare,  and 
the  rude  earthen  floor  Avas  uncarpeted ;  the  board  Avas  not  cover¬ 
ed  Avith  a  cloth,  and  rude  massive  benches  supplied  the  place  of 
chairs. 

“  In  the  centre  of  the  upper  table  Avere  placed  tAvo  chairs 
more  elevated  than  the  rest,  for  the  master  and  mistress  of  the 
family,  avIio  presided  over  the  scene  of  hospitality,  and  from  doing 


334  TEA. 

so  derived  their  Saxon  title  of  honor,  which  signifies  ‘  the  di¬ 
viders  of  Bread.’ 

“  One  of  these  seats  was  at  present  occupied  by  Cedric  the 
Saxon.  Two  or  three  servants  of  a  superior  order,  stood  behind 
their  master  upon  the  dais,  the  rest  occupied  the  lower  part  of 
the  hall.  Other  attendants  there  were  of  a  different  description  ; 
two  or  three  large  and  shaggy  greyhounds  ;  as  many  slow  hounds, 
and  one  or  two  smaller  dogs. 

“  The  Saxon  thane  was  impatient  for  the  presence  of  his  fa¬ 
vorite  clown,  whose  jests,  such  as  they  were,  served  as  a  sort  of 
seasoning  to  his  evening  meal,  and  to  the  deep  draughts  of  ale 
and  wine  with  which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  accompanying  it. 
Added  to  this,  Cedric  had  fasted  since  noon — a  cause  of  irrita¬ 
tion  common  to  country  squires  both  in  ancient  and  modern 
times. 

“  ‘  Oswald,  broach  the  wine  cask  ;  place  the  best  mead,  the 
mightiest  ale,  the  richest  Morat,  the  most  sparkling  cider,  the 
most  odoriferous  pigments  upon  the  board ;  fill  the  largest  horns  !  ’ 

“  Strangers  arrive  and  are  seated  at  the  table.  Swine’s  flesh , 
dressed  in  several  modes  appeared  on  the  lower  part  of  the  board  ; 
as  also  that  of  fowls,  deer,  goats,  and  hares,  and  various  kinds  of 
fish,  together  with  huge  loaves  and  cakes  of  bread,  and  sundry 
confections  made  of  fruits  and  honey.  The  smaller  sorts  of 
wild  fowl,  of  which  there  was  abundance,  were  not  served  in  plat¬ 
ters,  hut  brought  in  upon  small  wooden  spits,  and  offered  by  the 
domestics,  who  bore  them  to  each  guest  in  succession,  who  cut 
from  them  such  a  portion  as  he  pleased.  Beside  each  person  of 
rank  was  placed  a  goblet  of  silver  ;  the  lower  board  was  accom¬ 
modated  with  large  drinking  horns.’ — 

“  Wamba  had  taken  his  appropriated  seat  upon  a  chair,  the 
back  of  which  was  decorated  with  two  ass’s  ears,  and  which  was 
placed  about  two  steps  behind  that  of  his  master,  who  from  time  to 
time  supplied  him  Avitli  victuals  from  his  OAvn  trencher.  Here  he  sat 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  FETES,  ETC.  335 

■with  liis  eyes  half  shut,  yet  watching  with  alertness  every  oppor¬ 
tunity  to  exercise  his  licensed  foolery.” — Walter  Scott. 

THE  FEAST  OF  THE  BERMICIDE. 

“  Who  can  cloy  the  hungry  edge  of  appetite 
By  bare  imagination  of  a  feast.” — Siiakspeare. 

“My  youngest  brother,  Shacabac,  was  so  poor,  that  he  was 
reduced  to  beg ;  but  having  some  humor,  he  contrived  to  fare 
tolerably  well.  One  evening  he  applied  for  alms  at  the  palace  of 
a  Bermicide,  when  the  porter  said  to  him,  ‘  Go  in,  and  find  out 
our  master;  he  will  not  send  you  away  dissatisfied.’ 

11  Thus  encouraged,  my  brother  entered  the  palace,  and  strolled 
from  room  to  room,  till  he  came  into  a  hall,  adorned  with  paint¬ 
ings  of  gold,  azure  foliage,  and  splendidly  furnished.  At  the 
upper  end  of  this  room  he  saw  a  venerable  man  with  a  long, 
white  beard,  whose  appearance  carried  with  it  an  air  of  dignity. 
My  brother  concluded,  as  was  the  truth,  that  it  was  the  master  of 
the  house:  he  saluted  him,  therefore,  with  the  greatest  respect. 
The  Bermicide  received  him  kindly,  and  asked  him  what  he 
wanted.  Shacabac,  in  an  humble  manner,  related  his  necessities, 
and  besought  relief ;  concluding  his  sad  tale,  by  declaring  that 
he  had  not  eaten  any  thing  the  whole  day. 

“  The  Bermicide,  when  my  brother  ended,  put  his  hands  to  his 
garments,  as  if  he  would  have  rent  his  clothes.  4  Is  it  possible,’ 
said  he,  ‘  that  such  a  man  as  you  can  be  as  poor  as  you  say  ?  this 
must  not  be  ;  but  come,  as  you  have  not  eaten  to-day,  you  must 
be  ready  to  die  with  hunger ;  ho,  boy !  bring  in  the  water  to 
wash  our  hands,  and  order  supper  immediately.’  Shacabac  was 
confounded  at  this  gracious  reception,  and  was  about  to  express 
his  gratitude,  when  the  Bermicide  began  to  rub  his  hands,  as 
though  some  one  poured  water  on  them,  and  invited  my  brother 
to  come  and  wash  with  him.  No  boy  appeared ;  nor  was  there 
either  basin  or  water ;  yet  my  brother  thought  he  ought  not,  in 


336  TEA. 

complaisance,  to  contradict  his  host ;  he  came  forward,  therefore, 
and  did  as  he  did. 

“  ‘Come,’  said  the  Bermicide,  ‘  let  us  now  have  supper ; ’  and 
though  nothing  was  brought,  he  pretended  to  cut,  as  if  a  dish  of 
meat  was  before  him,  and  began  to  chew,  saying  to  my  brother, 
‘  Eat  friend,  eat  heartily ;  you  said  you  were  hungry,  hut  you  pro¬ 
ceed  as  if  you  had  no  appetite.’  Shacabac  gave  readily  in  to  the 
joke  and  imitating  the  Bermicide,  ‘You  see,  my  lord,  I  lose  no 
time.’  ‘  Boy,’  said  the  old  gentleman,  ‘  bring  us  another  dish  ; 
‘come,  my  good  friend,  taste  of  this  mutton  and  barley-broth; 
unless  you  prefer  part  of  that  goose  with  sweet  sauce,  vinegar, 
honey,  raisins,  grey  peas,  and  dry  figs ;  eat,  however,  sparingly 
of  it,  as  we  have  a  variety  of  good  things  to  come.’  Shacabac, 
fainting  with  hunger,  pretended  to  feast  heartily  on  these  invisi¬ 
ble  dainties.  The  Bermicide  continued  to  call  for  other  dishes, 
and  boasted  much  of  a  lamb  fed  with  pistachio  nuts,  ‘  a  dish,’ 
said  he,  ‘  you  will  find  at  no  table  but  mine ;  let  me  help  you 
to  some,  and  judge  if  I  have  not  reason  to  praise  it.’  My 
brother  made  as  if  he  received  the  lamb,  and  eat  it  with  great 
pleasure.  ‘  Nothing  can  be  more  delicious,’  said  he  ;  ‘  your  table, 
my  lord,  abounds  with  good  things.’  ‘  Eat  heartily,  then,’  said 
the  Bermicide;  ‘you  cannot  oblige  me  more!’  ‘You  see,  my 
lord,’  replied  my  brother,  ‘  how  I  testify  my  approbation.’ 

“  An  imaginary  dessert  succeeded.  The  Bermicide  did  not 
fail  to  recommend  the  several  fruits  and  confections.  Shacabac 
extolled  them  yet  more  ;  till,  tired  of  moving  his  jaws,  and  having 
nothing  to  eat,  he  declared  he  could  eat  no  more. 

“  ‘  Let  us  drink,  then,’  said  the  Bermicide,  ‘  bring  some  wine.’ 
‘  Excuse  me,  my  lord,  I  will  drink  no  wine,  because  it  is  forbid¬ 
den.’  ‘You  are  too  scrupulous,’  replied  the  host,  ‘  you  must  not 
refuse  to  keep  me  company.’  ‘  I  cannot  refuse  your  lordship,’ 
replied  my  brother,  ‘  but  must  entreat  you  not  to  urge  the  glass, 
for  I  am  not  accustomed  to  wine,  and  fear  lest  it  should  betray 


VARIOUS  SUPPERS,  FETES,  ETC.  337 

me  into  any  thing  like  disrespect  to  you.’  ‘  Wine  here,’  called 
out  the  Eermicide ;  then  holding  out  his  hand,  as  if  to  receive 
the  bottle,  he  turned  to  my  brother,  and  seemed  to  fill  him  a  glass, 
and  himself  another.  Shacabac  made  as  if  he  took  up  the  glass, 
and  bowing  very  low,  he  drank  the  health  of  his  host.  The 
Eermicide  continued  to  supply  his  guest  with  imaginary  bumpers, 
till  at  length,  my  brother  (weary  of  the  joke,  and  beginning  to 
get  a  little  out  of  humor)  affected  to  be  -drunk,  got  up  from  his 
seat,  and  gave  the  Eermicide  so  hearty  a  box  on  the  ear,  that  he 
knocked  him  down.  He  was  about  to  repeat  the  blow,  but  the 
old  gentleman  calling  out,  he  pretended  to  come  to  himself.  ‘  You 
have  been  so  good,  my  lord,’  said  he,  ‘  to  admit  your  slave  to 
your  table,  and  to  give  him  a  noble  treat ;  but  you  should  not 
have  tempted  him  with  wine ;  as  X  told  you,  I  feared  it  would 
cause  me  to  misbehave,  which  I  am  exceedingly  sorry  it  has 
done.’ 

“  The  Eermicide,  instead  of  being  in  a  rage,  laughed  heartily. 
1 1  have  long  wished,’  said  he,  ‘  for  a  man  of  your  character  ;  but 
come,  we  will  now  sup  in  good  earnest.’  Saying  this,  he  clapped 
his  hands,  and  the  servants  appearing,  he  ordered  supper,  and  the 
several  dishes  they  had  tasted  of  in  fancy,  were  really  set  before 
them.  The  old  gentleman,  finding  my  brother  a  man  of  good 
understanding,  as  well  as  of  much  pleasantry,  retained  him  in  his 
service.  For  twenty  years  Shacabac  lived  happy  in  his  protec¬ 
tion.” — Arabian  Nights1  Entertainments. 

To  those  of  our  readers  who  have  taken  with  us  a  friendly 
Breakfast,  or  sat  down  with  our  circle  of  guests  to  Dinner,  or 
gathered  around  the  social  Tea,  we  have  a  few  words  to  say  in 
parting.  We  have  brought  together  for  your  entertainment,  the 
products  of  the  East  and  West,  the  North  and  South  ;  and  have 
prepared  and  set  them  before  you,  hoping  that  you  would  partake 
of  them  with  the  same  spirit  of  love  and  courtesy  with  which  we 
22 


338  TEA. 

have  offered  them.  We  have  provided  not  only  for  the  gratification 
of  the  palate,  hut  of  the  imagination  and  the  memory,  by  recalling 
the  associations  which  the  various  dishes  convey,  of  foreign  climes 
and  people,  of  past  races,  and  of  the  illustrious  dead.  In  a 
work  so  miscellaneous,  and  arranged  for  many  different  tastes,  it 
would  be  hardly  possible  that  any  one  should  he  pleased  with  the 
whole,  but  if  it  contain  something  to  suit  each  reader,  the  end 
will  be  answered.  In  the  language  of  a  distinguished  American 
writer: — “Few  guests  sit  down  to  a  varied  table  with  an  equal 
appetite  for  every  dish.  One  has  an  elegant  horror  of  a  roasted 
pig ;  another  holds  a  curry  or  a  devil  in  utter  abomination ;  a 
third  cannot  tolerate  the  ancient  flavor  of  venison  and  wild  fowl ; 
and  a  fourth,  of  truly  masculine  stomach,  looks  with  sovereign 
contempt  on  those  knicknacks,  here  and  there  dished  up  for  the 
ladies.  Thus  each  article  is  condemned  in  its  turn  ;  and  yet, 
amidst  this  variety  of  appetites,  seldom  does  a  dish  go  away  from 
the  table  without  being  tasted  and  relished  by  some  one  or  other 
of  the  guests.”  We  shall  be  gratified  if  it  shall  have  been  our 
good  fortune  to  have  produced  such  a  result ;  and  more  than 
gratified  if  we  have  amused  one  solitary  hour,  aided  one  house¬ 
keeper  in  her  arduous  labors,  or  given  dignity  and  honor  to  the 
numerous  offices  which  devolve  upon  the  mistress  of  a  household. 

The  pleasures,  the  pursuits,  and  the  pride  of  men,  are  short¬ 
lived  and  fleeting  ;  and  we  might  indulge  a  momentary  sadness 
on  the  vanity  of  all  things  earthly, — but  Ave  will  not  imitate, 
even  in  fancy,  the  strange  conceit  of  that  ancient  people,  the 
Egyptians,  Avho  at  the  close  of  their  feasts,  passed  a  skeleton 
round  the  table  to  admonish  and  improve  the  guests. 


THE  END. 


INDEX. 

— -♦ — 


A 


Abyssinian  dinner. .  201 

Air-tight  cans,  directions  for .  314 

Alexander  the  Great,  suppers  of .  325 

Alexander  and  the  queen  of  Caria .  40 

Almond  cake .  308 

cream .  194 

padding .  190 

American  breakfasts .  7 

cooks .  53 

Anchovy .  101 

sauce .  97 

Ancient  breakfasts .  4 

Angler's  breakfasts .  4 

Ante-suppers .  327 

Antony  Mark,  cooks  of .  4S 

feasts  of .  325 

Ants’ eggs .  255 

Apple  bread .  19 

dessert-cake .  192 

dumplings .  182 

Florentine .  202 

jelly .  197 

jelly,  dried . 201 

pie .  174 

puddings,  baked . 180,  187 

puddings,  extempore .  193 

Apples,  customs  with .  202 

sweet,  pickled .  151 

Arab  cakes .  20 

Arab  dishes .  253 

Arabian  hospitality,  instance  of .  79 

Arctic  regions,  food  of .  204 

Ariamnes’  hospitality  .  222 

Artichokes  .  138 

Asinus . 237 

Asparagus . .. . 138 

Athenian  cooks _ : .  40 

dishes  . .  245 

entertainments  .  243 

practices  .  243 

Athol’s,  Earl  of,  entertainment  to  James 

V . . .  271 


B 


Bacon,  a  flitch  of . 125 

in  Spain .  235 

Bali  chung .  250 

Bannocks .  27 

Banquet  for  Archbishop  Warham . 267 

of  Diomed .  238 

to  La  Fayette .  831 

Banqueting-rooms  of  Lucullus .  05 

of  N  ero .  65 

Barley  bread .  19 

Baron  of  beef .  106 

Batter  puddings . 187,  188 

Beans,  stringed .  141 

Lima,  for  winter  use .  141 

Beau  Brummel,  a  saying  of .  84 

Beche-de-mer . 257 

Beef,  the  baron  of .  106 

boiled  corned . 121 

curing .  121 

roast . 105,  208 

sirloin  of .  106 

soup .  84 

Beef  steak  club .  32 

to  cook .  82 

Welsh  mode  of  serving .  83 

Beef’s  tongue,  to  cure .  126 

Beer,  ginger .  158 

Beets, "pickled .  152 

Bellew  Capt.  on  “tamarind  fish” .  101 

Bell,  pancake .  22 

Berlin,  dinner  in .  230 

Bermicide,  feast  of  the .  335 

Berry  pies .  177 

Bewitched,  veal . '. .  35 

Birds,  in  a  “pye”.. ..  : .  129 

nests,  for  soup., .  257 

Biscuit,  Indian  corn .  24 

morning .  26 

meat .  35 

soda . 303,  304 

strawberry .  304 

Bishop  Hall  respecting  his  meals .  44 


340 

INDEX. 

Blackberries  preserved . 

816 

Bream . 

. . . .  92 

Blackberry  pudding . 

1S1 

Bristol  milk . 

. ...  161 

Black  cake . 

809 

Brochan . 

....  217 

pudding . 

21S 

Broiled  chicken . 

. . . .  86 

Blanc-inange,  potato . 

196 

flsh . 

. . . .  36 

Blessington’s  Lady,  powers  of  enter- 

fish,  Indian  mode . 

. . . .  37 

taining . 

74 

ham  with  eggs . 

. . . .  34 

Boar’s  bead  at  Christmas . 

200 

oysters . 

. . . .  88 

Boiled  cabbage . 

140 

pigeons  . 

. . . .  84 

calf’s  head . 

120 

veal . 

chicken . 

US 

Brooch  of  queen  Elizabeth . 

. . . .  39 

corned  beef  . 

121 

Brose . 

....  217 

fish . 

96 

Buckingham,  the  duke  of,  and 

the 

ham . 

122 

dwarf . 

....  129 

lamb  or  mutton . 

125 

Buckwheat  cakes . 

. . . .  23 

meats  . 

120 

“Bull  heads” . 

. ...  91 

pork . 

122 

Bulwer  . 

....  238 

puddings . 

179 

Burleigh  Lord,  on  hospitality . 

. . . .  79 

turkey  . 

118 

Burmese  dish,  favorite . 

...  259 

Boswell  and  Johnson  on  conversation 

Burns’ poem  to  the  haggis . 

....  218 

at  table . 

70 

Butter.  Arabian  fondness  for . 

...  30 

Botargo  . 

100 

clarified . 

...  30 

Bottled  currants . 

821 

how  kept  fresh  in  India . 

....  SO 

gooseberries . 

821 

Orange  County . . 

....  27 

Bowl,  immense  punch . 

164 

to  preserve  a  firkin  of . 

. . . .  30 

Bread,  apple . 

19 

to  restore  rancid . 

...  80 

barley,  trial  by  ordeal . 

19 

used  among  the  Koreans . 

...  SO 

21 

Butter-making  charm . 

. . . .  29 

“flat”  of  the  Nonvegians . 

20 

Buttered  ale  “ . 

...  161 

Indian . 

IS 

toast  . 

...  26 

potato  . 

19 

Butternuts,  pickled . 

...  153 

Khode-Island  corn . 

19 

JSuyd  ur . 

...  29 

rice  . 

19 

Byron  Lord,  caprice  of . 

...  71 

rye  and  Indian . 

18 

on  coffee . 

...  9 

stale,  to  freshen . 

17 

steamed . 

18 

wheaten,  to  make . 

16 

C 

and  butter  pudding . 

192 

and  salt  to  Eussian  emperors . 

20 

Cabbage  boiled . 

...  140 

Bread-fruit  tree . 

20 

on  a  monument . 

...  139 

Breakfast,  call  to . . . 

43 

palm . 

...  139 

Cowper’s  lines  on . 

9 

pickled . 

...  153 

Dr.  Tobias  Venner  on . 

4 

the . 

...  139 

Duke  of  Northumberland's . 

5 

Csesar  Julius,  anecdote  of . 

...  825 

in  England,  Willis  on . 

6 

Cafe  au  lait . 

...  13 

hour  . 

3 

d  la  creme  frappe  de  glace. . . 

...  13 

Isaac  Walton  on  the  Angler's . 

4 

Cake,  almond . 

...  308 

laid . 

42 

apple  dessert . 

...  192 

Lord  Fairfax’s  orders  respecting  .. 

5 

black . 

...  309 

3 

...  807 

Pepys  . 

5 

cream . 

...  310 

Queen  Elizabeth’s . 

5 

cup . 

...  307 

7 

...  306 

Breakfast-cakes . 

21 

drop . 

...  309 

7 

...  306 

Macaulay  on . 

6 

ginger . 

6 

6 

...  25 

and  Samuel  Eogers . 

5 

jelly . 

7 

in  Germany. . , 

229 

ancient  . . ." . 

4 

mountain . 

Scottish . 

7 

Mrs.  Grundy’s  society . 

...  811 

old  English . 

5 

Nelly . 

INDEX. 


341 


oatmeal .  27 

plain .  307 

X>ound . 305,  308 

raisin .  308 

rich  fruit .  305 

silver .  306 

soda .  810 

sponge .  305 

steamed  johnny .  25 

tea . 309 

without  eggs .  307 

Cakes,  Arab .  26 

breakfast .  21 

buckwheat .  23 

corn .  22 

green  corn .  135 

Missouri  corn .  24 

nice  johnny . 25 

rice  or  hominy  griddle . ^23 

rye  drop .  304 

rye  and  Indian  griddle .  24 

Siblett .  . . .. .  310 

sour  milk  griddle .  23 

tea  ginger .  312 

Calf  s-foot  jelly .  200 

head,  boiled . 120 

Cailipeva,  the .  37 

Call  to  breakfast .  43 

Camacho’s  wedding  feast . 290 

Cannibalism .  265 

Cans,  self-sealing .  314 

Caprice  of  Lord  Byron .  71 

Cardinal  Fesch,  anecdote  of .  102 

Careme,  a  habit  of .  52 

Carlisle's,  Earl  of,  ante-suppers .  327 

Carlton  House,  fete  at . 331 

Carp .  91 

Carte  or  bill  of  fare .  209 

Carving . 131 

Cauliflower . 139, 152 

Caviar,  how  prepared .  100 

Cedric's  evening  meal .  332 

Celery  . . . 142 

Cervantes  description  of  a  wedding  feast  290 

Chantisa .  40 

Charles  I.,  entertainments  of . 32 1 

II.  as  cook .  54 

coronation  dinner  of .  278 

and  Grammont .  123 

V.,  attention  to  the  memory  of  a 

cook .  50 

XII.  of  Sweden,  anecdote  of .  20 

Charlotte  de  . .  195 

Spanish .  19" 

Charm,  butter  making .  2J 

Cheese,  liver .  "0 

Cherries,  pickled .  lot 

preserved . 

drink  made  from. . . ijj- 

Cherry  pie  . .  Ill 

Chestnuts  for  food .  242 

Chicory  in  coffee,  to  detect .  " 

root,  how  prepared .  12 

topers .  12 


Chicken,  boiled .  H8 

broiled .  36 

fricasseed . 130 

jelly .  201 

pie .  127 

roast .  H6 

salad .  149 

soup .  86 

Child  Mrs.,  on  Athenian  customs .  243 

Chinese  food .  258 

Chocolate,  substitutes  for .  14 

prepared .  14 

Choti-chou . 256 

Clioxvder,  to  make . . . . .  99 

Christina  of  Sweden,  collation  given  to  328 

Christmas  pie,  account  of  a .  127 

Chub,  Walton’s  rule  for  dressing .  94 

Churning .  28 

Citron  preserved .  319 

Cleopatra's  costly  drink . 157 

feasts  to  Antony .  325 

Clove  tree .  155 

Club,  the  beef-steak .  32 

Kit-Kat .  107 

Coach,  Sir  Samuel  Moreland’s .  84 

Cocaigne .  312 

Cocoa .  14 

Cocoanut  cake .  307 

for  dessert .  195 

pies .  175 

pudding .  188 

Cotfee,  Byron  on .  9 

chocolate  and  tea,  Francesco  Kedi 

on .  15 

dandelion .  13 

for  the  daughters  of  Louis  XV .  H 

first  use  of .  9 

growth  of .  9 

introduction  into  England  of. .  9 

houses,  in  Paris  and  London . '  10 

how  prepared .  12 

how  prepared  in  Germany  and 

France .  13 

Pope  fond  of . H 

Sir  Henry  Blount  on .  9 

substitutes  for .  11 

tree,  the  leaf  of  the .  H 

varieties  of .  12 

Collation,  May-day .  328 

Comfit  boxes .  203 

Commons . 19“ 

Conclusion .  337 

Conde,  Prince  de,  cooking  an  omelette  55 

Congrio,  Diomed’s  cook . 239 

Contest  between  cooks .  51 

Conversation  at  table. . .  70 

“  Cook,  accomplished  ” .  129 

Diomed’s . 239 

Pepys  in  search  of  a .  72 

Weston,  the .  89 

Cookery,  masterpiece  of. . H4 

writers  on . 1 .  52 

Cookies,  Oxford .  311 

Katie’s .  312 


342  INDEX. 


minute  .  312 

molasses . 812 

Cooking  in  the  Crimean  war .  55 

and  eating  in  the  Pacific  islands. . .  263 

meat  in  hot  climates .  10T 

Cooks  in  America .  58 

among  the  Greeks .  46 

in  Mark  Antony’s  kitchen .  4S 

names,  the  king’s  dishes  marked 

with . . .  89 

of  Napoleon  I .  49 

rewards  given  to .  50 

trials  of .  48 

Cook’s  triumph  over  veal,  a . 108 

Corn  bread,  excellent .  21 

bread,  Rhode  Island .  19 

cakes . . 22,  24 

cakes,  green .  135 

dried  for  winter  use .  135 

dumplings,  green .  136 

for  boiling .  135 

oysters .  136 

parched . * .  136 

puddings .  183, 1S8 

starch  pudding. . . .- . 187 

Coronation  custom  in  Russia .  20 

dinner  of  Anne  Boleyn .  263 

dinner  of  Charles  II .  278 

feast  of  Henry  Yth’s  queen . 266 

Country  tea-table,  Dutch .  300 

Courses  at  Roman  dinners .  236 

for  modern  dinners .  74 

Courtiers,  effect  of  pies  on . 128 

Coverpane .  127 

Cowper,  lines  from . 9,  299 

Crabs .  92,  258 

Crabapple  jelly .  198 

Cranberry  jelly .  198 

Crane...’. .  205 

Cream,  almond .  194 

Bohemian .  194 

cake .  310 

curds  and .  194 

ico . 194, 195 

Isabella .  193 

lemon .  195 

snow  rice .  193 

white .  194 

Crimea,  cooking  at  the  hospitals  of  the  55 

Cross-buns,  hot .  27 

Cucumbers  fried .  142 

pickled .  151 

Cup  cake .  307 

Cup,  drinking .  162 

Gen.  Jackson’s . 164 

“loving”  the .  165 

Robert  Burns’ .  164 

“stirrup’-’ . 164 

Curds  and  cream .  194 

Curing  beef,  for .  121 

beef’s  tongue .  126 

hams .  124 

mutton .  125 

Currant  jellies . 199,  200 


pie .  178 

wine .  156 

Currants,  bottled .  821 

preserved . 818 

why  so  called .  200 

Curry  and  rice .  254 

Cussy,  M.  de,  saying  of .  69 

Custard .  196 

pie .  175 

quaking .  168 

D 

Dandelion  coffee .  13 

Dandelions .  141 

Date-palm,  the .  184 

or  prune  pudding .  184 

De  Cussy  M.  on  cookery .  52 

De  Stael,  Madame .  280 

Delicate  cake .  806 

Dessert  at  a  banquet  for  an  archbishop  268 

of  the  Countess  of  Salisbury .  170 

Desserts  of  the  olden  time .  166 

Devices  in  sugar . 169,  170 

Dilligrout .  50 

Dining  out,  Moore’s .  120 

well .  62 

Dining-halls .  65 

Dining-tables .  67 

Dinner  in  Abyssinia .  261 

considered .  61 

at  coronation  of  Anne  Boleyn . 268 

at  coronation  of  Charles  II .  278 

at  coronation  of  Ilenry  V’s  queeu  266 

courses  for .  74 

courses  at  a  Roman .  236 

four  Irish  kings  at . 221 

hour  .  64 

invitation  to, by  Thomas  Moore...  82 

of  James  I.  to  an  ambassador .  274 

master  late  at .  116 

at  Moliere’s .  276 

of  the  New  Year .  292 

in  a  nobleman’s  household .  209 

with  a  Parsee . : .  254 

in  Persia .  251 

Rev.  Sydney  Smith’s  account  of  a..  287 

at  Sheridan’s .  280 

of  Sir  Richard  Steele,  a .  279 

Dinner-party .  68 

Dinners  badly  prepared .  63 

in  Circassia .  250 

of  form .  70 

of  Gen.  Urquiza .  289 

in  Hamburg  and  Berlin .  229 

of  Montezuma .  270 

of  Napoleon  and  Josephine .  231 

of  Pepys .  210 

of  policy .  62 

of  Queen  Elizabeth . . .  273 

Russian .  247 

of  Talley  rand . 282 

in  Turkey .  249 

of  various  persons .  266 


INDEX. 


343 


to  Jamfts  I.,  Earl  of  Athol’s . 271 

a  pie  at  an . 129 

sugar- work  at  an .  107 

Entertainments  of  the  Athenians .  243 

of  Charles  1 .  327 

Highland .  210 

of  the  Japanese . 259 

Escurial,  the .  34 

Evening  meal  of  Cedric . 332 

Eve’s  repast  to  the  angel .  78 

Ewerer,  the .  275 

Exertions  of  American  ladies .  73 

Experienced  servants .  72 


of  Washington  in  camp .  2S3 

of  Washington  while  President...  2S4 

Diomed’s  banquet .  238 

Dish,  Burmese  - .  256 

Dishes  of  the  Arabs .  253 

Chinese .  256 

favorite  in  old  England .  205 

favorite  of  Dr.  Johnson . 122 

favorite  Roman .  237 

favorite  in  Scotland .  218 

French .  227 

at  a  marriage  feast .  205 

of  Roman  emperors . 238 

Russian .  247 

Dishes,  Spanish .  234 

Swedish  national .  249 

D’Israeli  on  customs  of  Guelphs  and 

Gliibellines . ... .  31 

Dog,  the,  as  food . 258 

Dogs  for  turnspits .  107 

Dormouse .  237 

Downing  on  Lima  beans .  141 

Drink,  Cleopatra’s  costly .  157 

Drinking-cups .  162 

Drinks .  155 

effect  of  climate  on .  159 

Oxford .  160 

Drop  cakes . 804,  309 

Duchess  of  Sutherland’s,  lunch  at _  64 

Ducks,  roast .  118 

Duke  of  Marlborough’s  cook .  51 

of  Northumberland's  breakfast _  5 

Dumplings,  apple .  182 

green  corn .  136 

Dwarf  in  a  “pye  ” .  129 


E 

Eager  talkers .  69 

Ease  in  a  host  and  hostess .  73 

Edgeworth  Maria,  practice  of .  7 

Eel,  the .  91 

the,  to  cook .  39 

Egg-flip  or  posset .  160 

plant .  144 

sauce . 97 

Eggs,  ants’ .  255 

colored .  42 

to  detect  poor .  40 

of  the  ostrich .  42 

pickled .  154 

Elderberry  wine .  157 

English  breakfasts,  old . 5 

breakfast-parties .  6 

dining-halls .  65 

living,  old .  204 

meals  in  the  thirteenth  and  four¬ 
teenth  centuries .  5 

mutton  sausages .  83 


Entertainment  of  a  British  officer,  by 

Gen.  Marion .  286 

French .  222 


F 


Fairfax  Lord,  orders  of . 5,  209 

Fare,  bill  of .  209 

in  Shakspeare’s  time .  208 

Farina  pie .  175 

pudding .  189 

Feast  of  the  Bermicide . 835 

Camacho’s  wedding .  290 

of  Earl  of  Leicester  at  Utrecht. . . .  272 
in  the  Lay  of  the  Niebelungen....  233 

Number  of  dishes  at  a.  . 205 

at  Queen  Katherine’s  coronation . .  266 

at  Versailles,  Louis  XIVth’s .  276 

Feasting  of  Vitellius .  238 

Feasts  at  funerals .  215 

of  the  old  Irish .  222 

Federal  cake .  806 

Ferns  boiled .  138 

Festivities  at  Belvoir  castle .  161 

Fete  at  Carlton  House .  331 

Fetes  at  York  House . 327 

Fish .  90 

baked . 102 

banquet .  267 

boiled .  96 

broiled .  86 

broiled,  Indian  mode .  37 

as  cooked  two  hundred  years  ago..  93 

dinners .  274 

Egyptian  and  Syrian  dread  of . 103 

in" favor  with  the  Romans .  237 

fried .  40 

maws  .  100 

Philip  II.  on  eating .  98 

sauces  .  97 

ways  of  preserving .  37 

women  of  Paris . 103 

Fishing,  Dr.  Paley  on .  98 

“  Flat  brod  ”  of  the  Norwegians .  20 

Florentine,  apple .  202 

Flour,  Mrs.  Partington  on .  17 

Flummery .  195 

Foix.  Count  de,  suppers  of .  326 

Food  of  the  Arctic  regions . 264 

in  Italy,  articles  of. .  242 

for  the  poor  at  Dublin .  55 

savage .  265- 

Ford  on  Spanish  dishes .  234 


344  IXDEX. 


Forks,  prejudice  against .  31 

of  Queen  Elizabeth .  81 

and  Tom  Coryate .  81 

Fountains  of  wine . 158 

Francesco  Eedi  on  coffee,  chocolate  and 

tea .  15 

wine .  155 

French  dishes .  227 

entertainment .  222 

rule  for  making  chocolate .  14 

Fricasseed  chickens .  130 

Fried  cucumbers .  142 

fish .  40 

oyster  plant .  142 

oysters .  88 

Frogs,  the  consumption  of .  88,  224 

to  cook .  39 

Froissart  on  suppers  of  Count  de  Foix  326 

Fruit  cake .  305 

Fruits  in  Henry  VIHth's  time .  821 

Thomson  on .  166,  322 

whence  obtained .  321 

Funeral  feasts .  215 


G 

Garlic .  137 

Gastronomy,  writers  on .  52 

Gauls,  cooking  of  the .  223 

hospitality  of  the .  222 

Geoffrin,  Madame,  “soupers”  of . 823 

George  II.  and  his  cook  Weston .  89 

German  hospitality,  old .  232 

mode  of  cooking  a  goose .  117 

preparing  chocolate .  15 

preparing  coffee .  13 

practice  with  tea .  303 

Germans,  table  habits  of  the .  229 

Ghee .  30 

Ginger  Beer .  158 

cakes .  309,  Si  2 

nuts . .  312 

Gipsey’s  pudding .  1S7 

Giuncata .  242 

Golden  cake .  306 

Gold  and  silver  salvers .  20 

Goose  at  Michaelmas . > . 206 

pickled .  35 

roast .  117 

Gooseberries  bottled .  321 

preserved . . .  316 

Gooseberry  pie .  178 

pie,  ode  to .  178 

pudding .  181 

wine .  156 

“Grace  of  God,”  the .  34 

at  table .  44 

Grampus . . .  92 

Grape  jelly .  198 

Grapes  preserved .  816 

Grasshoppers .  265 

Grecian  customs .  243 

Gridirons .  34 


Griddle-cakes,  rye  and  Indian .  24 

sour  milk .  23 

Grundy’s  Mrs.  society  cake . 311 

Guelphs  and  Ghibellines .  31 

Guests,  humors  of .  70 

selection  of .  69 

Swift's  reckoning  with . 330 

Guisado,  Spanish . 235 

Gumbo  soup .  85 


H 

Habit  respecting  meals .  44 

Haddocks  boiled .  100 

tradition  respecting .  100 

Haggis . 218 

receipt  for  a .  219 

Ham,  to  boil  a .  122 

and  eggs .  34 

Hams,  to  cure .  124 

Spanish .  235 

Hancock’s  John,  coolness .  74 

llardwicke  Lady .  63 

Harvest  supper .  322 

Heads,  singed  sheep's .  218 

lledge-hog. .  237 

Heliogabulus,  favorite  dishes  of .  138 

Hen,  an  artificial . 129 

Henry  I’s  death,  cause  of. .  89 

VIHth’s  rewards  for  certain  dishes  50 

Herring  pie .  95 

tradition  respecting .  96 

Herrings .  91 

Hertford’s,  the  Earl  of,  entertainment  167 

Iligdom .  155 

Highland  toasts .  165 

Hindoo  meal .  254 

Hoe-cake .  25 

Hogs  fed  on  nuts .  124 

Hominy  puddings .  190 

llorse-fiesh .  226 

Hospitality  of  the  Gauls .  222 

illustrated .  78 

an  instance  of  Arabian .  79 

Lord  Burleigh  on .  79 

old  German .  232 

of  Bichard  1 .  205 

of  the  Scotch .  214 

Spanish .  233 

vulgar .  80 

Host  and  hostess,  ease  of .  73 

Host  cross-buns .  27 

Hour  for  breakfast . •  3 

for  dining .  64 

Howard's  Mrs.  dinner  of  policy .  62 

Humors  of  guests .  70 

Hue  M.  the  use  of  ferns  by .  138 


I 

Ice-cream . 194,  195 

Imperial .  159 


_ J 


Indian  bread .  IS 

corn .  135 

corn  biscuit .  24 

pancakes .  23 

pudding .  184 

Inscription  at  Trollliathc .  16 

Introduction  of  coffee  into  England. . .  9 

Invitation  to  dinner .  82 

Ipocras .  . .  161 

Irish  customs .  221 

kings  at  dinner .  221 

old,  coshering  feasts  of  the .  222 

Irving  on  Dutch  tea-tables .  300 


James  I’s  dinner  to  an  ambassador . 274 

Japanese  banquet .  260 

dishes .  259 

Jellies .  197 

apple .  197 

apple,  dried .  201 

caifs  foot .  200 

chicken .  201 

crab-apple .  198 

cranberry .  193 

currant . 199,  200 

grape .  198 

four  fruit .  198 

wine . 201,  202 

Jelly  cake . • .  307 

pie . 174 

pudding . 192 

Jessie’s  corn  pudding .  183 

Jester,  Wamba,  the .  334 

Johnny  cake .  25 

Johnson,  Dr.,  on  ill-cooked  dinners _  63 

favorite  dishes  of. . 122 

fond  of  berries .  316 

on  his  last  dinner  at  Airs.  Thrale's  126 

on  conversation  at  table .  70 

on  orange  pudding . 192 

on  tea .  302 

on  vulgar  hospitality .  80 


K 


Kale .  140 

Kane,  Dr.,  on  virtues  of  tea .  802 

on  the  walrus .  265 

Kate's  cookies . 312 

Khan  of  Tartary .  136 

King’s  dishes  marked  with  the  cooks’ 

names .  89 

Kirchwasser .  158 

Kisses . 167 

Kit-Kat  club,  the . . . 107 

Knives  and  spoons,  as  used  by  Guelphs 

and  Ghibellincs .  31 

Knowledge  of  cookery .  54 

Kohl-rabis . 116 

Krullers .  313 


L 

Lady  Blessington .  74 

Bustle’s  pudding . 192 

Ilardwicke .  63 

Mary  W.  Montague .  62 

Sidney  and  the  boar-pies .  123 

Suffolk .  62 

La  Fayette,  banquet  to . 331 

Lamb,  Charles,  on  rejoicings  of  the  New 

Year . .’ .  292 

on  roast  pig .  110 

Lamb,  boiled .  125 

cooked  by  the  Arabs .  253 

soup .  86 

“  Lamb’s  wool  ” . 161 

Lamprey,  stewed .  39 

Larding .  104 

Leaf  of  the  coffee-tree .  11 

Legend  respecting  oyster-eating .  99 

Leicester's,  Earl  of,  feast  at  Utrecht.. .  272 

Leigh  Hunt  on  breakfast .  42 

Lemon  cake .  306 

cream .  195 

kisses .  197 

pudding .  191 

water.. . 160 

Lettuce,  dressed .  148 

Liver  cheese .  36 

of  the  walrus . 265 

Loach .  91 

Loaf  cake .  309 

Lobsters .  98 

Lobster-salad . 149 

sauce .  97 

Locusts,  fried .  256 

Lord  Burleigh  on  hospitality .  79 

Fairfax’s  orders  to  his  servants... 5,  209 

Lovat .  216 

Louis  Xlth  of  France  and  the  turnspit  105 

XIVth's  feast  at  Versailles .  276 

XIVth’s  meals . 275 

XVth’s  daughters,  coffee  for .  11 

Lovat,  Lord .  216 

Lucullus’  banqueting-rooms . 65 

Luncheon .  04 

in  Germany .  229 

Lut-fisk .  249 

Luttrell  on  veal  soup .  85 

M 

Macaroni . . . .  •  145 

Macaroons . 202.  203 

Macaulay  on  breakfast  parties .  6 

MacDonald  at  table .  216 

Mangoes . 154 

“Marchpane” . 161 

Maraschino.. .  158 

Marion’s  Gen.  entertainment  of  a  Brit¬ 
ish  officer .  286 

Mark  Antony’s  gift  to  a  Homan  cook. .  50 

Master-piece  of  cookery  in  1661 .  114 

Mayday  collation  to  Christina  of  Sweden  G28 


346 

INDEX. 

Mead . . . 

1G1 

Nelly  cake . 

. . .  80S 

IS 

65 

evening,  of  Cedric . 

332 

Nests,  birds’ . 

. ...  257 

oat . , 

20 

Newstead  Abbey,  motto  at . 

. ...  310 

rye . 

18 

New  Year's  dinner  to  all  the  Days 

..  292 

wheat . 

18 

Nightingales . 

. ...  238 

Meals  in  England  in  thirteenth  and 

N udels  for  soup . 

....  84 

fourteenth  centuries . 

5 

N  utmeg . 

....  811 

of  Louis  XIVth . 

275 

Nuts,  ginger. . 

....  812 

of  Sparta,  public . 

245 

Meat  biscuit . 

35 

boiled . 

120 

O 

cooked  in  hot  climates . 

107 

roasting  or  baking . 

104 

Oatmeal  cake . 

....  27 

Meats . 

32 

Ode  to  gooseberry  pie,  Southey’s. . 

....  178 

Melons  prepared  like  egg-plant . 

144 

to  mince  pic . 

Mel-supper . 

323 

Officers  at  the  king’s  table . 

....  127 

Menzikoff,  a  pastry  cook . 

177 

Okra . 

Metheglin . 

158 

Olccokes . 

Milk  toast . 

20 

. . .  30 

Mince  pie . 

172 

Olla  podrida . 

.  2  34 

“pye,”ode  to . 

173 

Omelette,  M.  Soyer’s . 

. ...  41 

Minerva,  Telemachus’  reception  of. . . . 

79 

Prince  de  Condo’s . 

. . . .  55 

“  Minerva's  target” . 237, 

23S 

Spanish . 

Minute  cookies . 

312 

Onions . 

....  137 

Mock  turtle  soup . 

87 

.  153 

Mohalleby . 

249 

Opening  of  English  coffee-houses. . 

....  10 

Molasses  cookies . 

312 

Orange  county  butter . 

....  27 

Moliero’s,  a  dinner  at . • . 

276 

puddings . 

191,  192 

Monk,  the,  and  Pirkheimer . 

324 

wine . 

....  161 

Montague,  Lady  Mary  Wortley . 

62 

Oranges  preserved . 

....  320 

Montezuma  at  table . 

270 

Ordeal,  trial  by . 

....  19 

Montgomery  on  breakfast . 

3 

Orders  of  Lord  Fairfax  to  his  servants  5,  209 

Moore's  dining  out . 

120 

Oseanyon  on  Turkish  customs . 

....  249 

invitation  to  Lord  Lansdowne .... 

82 

Ostrich  eggs . 

. . . .  42 

Morat . 

161 

Ovster  pies . 

More,  Sir  Thomas,  on  feasting . 

324 

soup . 

. . . .  SO 

Moreland,  Sir  Samuel . 

84 

broiled . 

. . . .  38 

Morier  on  Persian  customs . . 

251 

corn . 

....  136 

Morning  biscuit . 

26 

fried . 

. . . .  88 

“  Mornings  ”  at  the  poet  Bogers . 

6 

legend  respecting . . 

....  99 

Motto  at  Newstead  Abbey . 

810 

pickled . ; 

....  83 

Mouldy  bread,  anecdote  of . 

20 

scolloped . 

. . . .  98 

Mountain  cake . 

307 

Oxford  cookies . 

....  311 

Muffins . 

23 

soda . 

24 

Mullet .  . 

237 

P 

Mushrooms . 

144 

Mustard . t . 

147 

Paloy,  Dr.,  on  fishing . 

. . . .  93 

and  cress . 

148 

Pancake  Bell . 

...  22 

Mutton,  to  cure  and  boil . 

125 

Pancakes  on  Shrove  Tuesday . 

. . . .  22 

chop . 

Khode  Island . 

. . . .  22 

roast . 

107 

Indian . 

. . . .  23 

sausages . 

33 

Parisian  coffee  houses . 

....  10 

Parties,  breakfast . 

...  6 

at  dinner . 

...  GS 

N 

Parsee  customs . 

....  254 

Parsnips . 

...  141 

Napoleon  1st  and  his  cooks . 

49 

...  157 

and  Josephine  at  dinner . 

281 

Partridges . 

...  119 

Nasturtiums  pickled . 

Paste,  puff. . 

National  preferences,  Southey  on . 

7 

Pastry . 

...  223 

Neal  on  Chinese  dishes . 

256 

of  the  olden  time . 

...  166 

on  Siamese  customs . 

255 

Patent  tea-cakes . 

...  301 

INDEX. 

347 

Pates  do  foies  gras . 

117 

oyster . 

.  »2 

Peach  pie . 

177 

peach  . 

. 17? 

Peaches,  pickled . 

150 

pigeon  . 

. 123 

preserved . 

816 

plum . 

.  17* 

Peacock,  the . 

2()o 

pumpkin . 

“  enkakyll  ” . 

206 

pumpkin,  grated . 

. no 

among  the  Homans . 

287 

pumpkin,  dried . 

Pears,  boiled . 

821 

rare . 

. 129 

pickled . 

151 

rhubarb . 

.  178 

preserved  . 

817 

snail . 

225 

Pea-soup . 

S3 

squash . 

. 177 

Peas,  to  boil . 

141 

veal . 

. 123  ’ 

Pemmican . 

86 

upon  courtiers,  the  effect  of. 

. 128 

Pepvs’  account  of  a  coronation  dinner. 

273 

Pigeon  pie . . 

. 128 

breakfast . . . 

5 

Pigeons  broiled . 

.  84 

dinners . 

210 

potted . 

. 130 

search  for  a  cook . 

72 

Pig,  roast . 

. 110 

Pepper. . 

154 

roast,  dissertation  on . 

. 110 

Perch . 

01 

roasted  by  the  ancients . 

.  123 

Perry . 

161 

Pike,  the . 

.  90 

Persia,  Shah  of,  at  dinner . 

251 

Pilau . 

. 251 

Peruvian  delicacy . 

40 

Piment . 

. 161 

Pfeiffer,  Madame,  on  Parsec  customs... 

254 

Pineapple,  preserved . 

. 818 

Philip  lid  of  Spain  on  eating  fish . 

98 

Pirkheimer  and  the  monk . 

. 324 

and  the  Escurial . 

34 

Piroga  or  flsh-cake . 

Pickles . 

150 

Pitcher  of  Gen.  Jackson’s . 

. 164 

Pickled  apples,  sweet . 

151 

Plain  cake . 

. 307 

butternuts . 

153 

Plum  pie . 

.  177 

beets . 

152 

pudding . 

. 180 

cabbage . 

153 

pudding,  green . 

. 181 

cauliflower . 

152 

pudding,  prejudice  against.. . 

. ISO 

cherries . 

151 

Plums  pickled . 

.  151 

cucumbers . 

151 

preserved  . 

. 320 

eggs . 

154 

Polssardes  of  Paris . 

. 103 

goose  . 

85 

Polenta . 

. 242 

nasturtions . 

153 

Pollock . 

. 100 

onions . 

153 

Polio  con  arroz . 

. 236 

oysters . 

38 

Pomegranate,  the . 

. 199 

peaches . 

150 

Pope  and  Dean  Swift . 

. 880 

pears . 

151 

Pope's  description  of  the  preparation  of 

plums . 

151 

coffee . 

sheep’s  tongues . 

127 

fondness  for  lampreys . 

.  40 

tomatoes . 

154 

fondness  for  coffee . 

.  11 

Pork  among  the  ancients . 

123 

Pies . 

170 

among  the  Scotch . 

123 

apple . 

174 

boiled . 

.  122 

apple,  Lord  Dudley  fond  of. . 

174 

baked  with  beans . 

. 114 

berry . 

177 

roast . 

birds  in  a . 

129 

to  salt  and  pack . 

. 124 

boar . 

128 

Porpoise . 

cherry . 

177 

Possett,  egg . 

chicken . 

127 

sack . 

Christmas . 

127 

Potato  bread .  . 

.  19 

the  Irish . 

178 

puddings,  baked . 

.190,  191 

175 

puddings,  boiled . 

. 1S3 

128 

Potatoes,  to  cook .....  m. . 

. 183 

farina . 

175 

sweet. . . . . 

. 184 

game . 

207 

“  with  the  bone  in  ” . 

.  134 

gooseberry . 

178 

Potted  pigeons . 

. 130 

95 

shad . 

174 

Pound  cake . 

.805.  308 

ininco . 

172 

Practice  of  Miss  Edgeworth . 

.....  7 

mock  apple . 

174 

Prejudice  against  plum  pudding.. 

. ISO 

348 


INDEX, 


Preparation  of  chocolate .  14 

of  coffee .  12 

Preserves .  314 

Preserved  blackberries .  816 

cherries .  316 

citron .  319 

currants .  318 

gooseberries . 316 

grapes . 816 

oranges .  320 

peaches .  316 

pears .  317 

pineapples .  318 

plums .  320 

pumpkin .  319 

quinces .  317 

raspberries .  316 

strawberries . 315 

watermelon .  319 

Preserving  fish .  37 

Prunes .  320 

Puchero .  235 

Puddings .  179 

almond .  190 

apple  (baked) . 187 

batter  (baked) .  1S7 

batter,  Fannie's .  1S8 

berry .  1S1 

black .  218 

bread  and  butter .  192 

boiled .  179 

cocoanut .  188 

corn  (boiled) .  183 

corn  (baked) . 1S8 

cornstarch .  187 

cracked  wheat . 1S9 

date  or  prune .  184 

English  gooseberry . 181 

English  plum .  130 

English  roly-poly . 183 

farina .  189 

gipsey’s .  187 

hominy .  190 

jelly .  192 

Jessie’s  corn .  183 

King  Arthur’s. .  . . 1S2 

lemon . 191 

orange . 191,  192 

Peggy’s  family .  188 

plum .  208 

potato  (boiled) .  183 

potato  (baked) . 190,  191 

pumpkin .  191 

rice .  1S9 

rich  boiled  Indian . 184 

sago .  185 

sago  apple . 186 

tapioca .  185 

tapioca  apple .  186 

Puffets . 175 

Puff-paste . . . 170 

Pumpkin  pies .  176 

preserved . 319 

pudding .  191 


Punch . 161 

Punchbowl . 164 

Puppies,  the  flesh  of. .  237 

Pyramids  at  a  dessert .  168 


Q 

Queen  Anne,  (Boleyn,)  coronation  din¬ 


ner  of .  . 263 

of  Caria’s  gift  to  Alexander. .  46 

Elizabeth,  breakfast  of. .  5 

Elizabeth,  brooch  of .  39 

Elizabeth,  dinners  of .  273 

Elizabeth,  forks  of .  31 

Elizabeth,  Sir  Robert  Sidney  and . .  128 

Katharine's  feast .  266 

Quinces,  baked .  320 

preserved .  317 


R 


Eaisin  cake . 

Raisins . 

Raspberries  preserved . 

Raspberry,  the . . 

pudding . 

wine . 

Rat-soup .  . 

Rebecca’s  skill  in  cooking . 

Recette  de  la  Fondue . 

Receptions,  evening . 

Eevueltas  de  hnevos . 

Rewards  to  cooks . 

Ehode-Island  corn  bread . 

pancakes . 

Rhubarb  pie . 

Rice . 

bread . 

or  hominy  griddle-cakes  . . . 

puddings . 

Richard  1st,  the  servants  of. ... . 

Ricotta . 

Rivalry  of  cooks . 

Roast  beef . 

chickens . 

ducks . 

goose  . . 

mutton . 

Pig .  - 

pork . 

turkey . 

veal . 

venison . 

Roe  . 

Rogers  and  breakfast  parties. . . . 

Roman  customs . 

emperors,  favorite  dishes  of 

Roques,  M.  receipt  for  cafe . 

Roses  at  breakfast . 

Rushes  upon  floors . 

Rusk... . . . 

Russian  cook,  the . 


....  308 
. ...  308 
....  316 
....  159 
....  181 
....  157 
....  258 
. . . .  45 
. . . .  40 
....  301 
....  235 
. . . .  50 
....  19 
. . . .  22 
....  173 
145,  251 
....  19 
. . . .  23' 
....  189 
. ...  205 
....  242 
....  61 
....  105 
....  116 
....  118 
....  117 
....  107 
....  110 
....  114 
....  115 
..  .•  108 

.  106 

....  100 
. . . .  5 

....  236 
. ...  238 
....  13 
....  7 

. . . .  65 
. . . .  304 
....  248 


INDEX.  349 


custom  at  coronations .  20 

dinners .  24T 

dishes .  247 

piroga  or  fish-cake .  101 

Eye  drop  cakes .  304 

and  Indian  bread .  18 

and  Indian  griddle-cakes .  24 


8 

Sack-posset .  161 

Sago-palm .  185 

puddings . 185,  186 

Salad,  chicken .  149 

lobster .  149 

sauce . 148 

lloman  peasant’s .  145 

Spanish  mode  of  dressing, .  147 

Sydney  Smith's  rule  for .  14G 

Sally  *Lunn . 310 

Salmon,  the .  99 

Salsify,  fried .  142 

toast .  142 

Salt . 127,  273 

Salyers,  gold  and  silver .  20 

Sancho  Panza,  saying  o£ .  138 

at  a  wedding  feast .  290 

Sardine,  the .  101 

Sauce,  anchovy. . . 97 

egg .  97 

fish .  97 

lobster .  97 

salad  .  148 

shrimp .  97 

Spanish .  118 

tomato . 143 

Sausages,  to  make .  33 

English  mutton .  88 

Snvarin,  M.,  sayings  of . 52  73,  226 

Savage  food .  265 

Saying  grace .  44 

Scolloped  oysters .  98 

Scottish  breakfasts .  7 

dislike  of  pork .  123 

hospitality .  214 

Scott  on  Saxon  manners .  332 

on  Scottish  dislike  of  pork .  123 

Sea-calf .  92 

slugs .  257 

wolf. .  92 

Secrets,  the  two .  158 

Sedgwick,  Miss,  on  the  breakfast  party  6 

on  Italian  food .  242 

Selection  of  guests .  69 

Servants,  experienced .  71 

of  Iiicliard  1st. . . . .  205 

Shad,  potted . . .  37 

Shakspeare’s  time,  fare  in .  208 

Sheep's  heads .  218 

tongues,  to  pickle .  .  127 

Sherbets.... . 159,  252 

Sheridan's,  dinner  at .  280 

Shrimp  sauce .  97 


Shrove  Tuesday,  pancakes  on .  22 

Siamese  customs .  255 

Siblett  cakes .  310 

Sicilian  cooks .  46 

Sidney,  Lady,  and  the  boar-pies .  128 

Sigourney,  Mrs.,  call  to  breakfast _ _  43 

Silver  cake .  896 

Sir  Henry  Blount  on  coffee .  9 

Sirloin  of  beef,  tradition  of  the .  106 

Skill  of  the  ancients  in  cooking .  46 

in  cooking,  Eebecca’s. .  45 

of  French  cooks... . .  52 

Snails .  224 

fattening..... .  237 

Snipe .  120 

Socrates’  habit  at  public  feasts .  243 

Soda  biscuits . 303,  304 

cake .  310 

muflins . 24 

Soup,  beef .  84 

chicken .  .  86 

gumbo .  85 

lamb .  86 

mock  turtle .  87 

nudcls  for .  84 

oyster .  86 

pea .  83 

turtle.. .  87 

Soujie  d  la  Cussy .  86 

“  Soupers  ”  of  Mad.  Geoffrin .  323 

Southey  on  national  preferences .  7 

on  table  prepared .  203 

ode  to  gooseberry  pie,  by .  173 

Soyer  M.  Alexis . 55 

coffee  as  made  by .  13 

omelette  of .  41 

Spanish  Charlotte . 196 

guisado . 235 

hams .  235 

hospitality .  283 

olla  podrida . 234 

omelettes .  235 

Spartan  meals . 245 

Spinach .  141 

Spit,  a  singular .  107 

Sponge  for  bread. . .  16 

cake . 1 .  305 

Squashes .  137 

Squash  pie .  177 

Stael,  Mad.  de .  280 

Stappit  heads  ”, .  10C 

Steamed  bread .  IS 

johnny-cake .  25 

Steele,  Sir  Bichard,  at  dinner, . 279 

Sterlit .  247 

Sterne  on  venison .  107 

Stewed  lamprey,  lines  on .  39 

Stowe,  Mrs.,  on  breakfast  parties .  6 

on  exertions  of  American  ladies. . .  73 

on  lunch  in  England .  64 

Strawberries,  Izaak  Walton  on .  815 

and  Dr.  Johnson .  316 

preserved .  315 

Strawberry  biscuit .  304 


350 


INDEX. 


Strickland’s,  Miss,  account  of  a  corona¬ 
tion  dinner .  26S 

Snbtleties .  166 

Succotash . 135 

Sugar,  devices  in . .' . . .  169 

plums .  193 

Supper,  churn  or  kern .  323 

harvest . . .  322 

mel .  323 

Suppers  of  the  Count  de  Foix . 326 

Don  Quixote’s  advice  respecting...  324 

ltev.  Sydney  Smith’s . 332 

Surprise-banquet  to  La  Fayette .  331 

Swedish  dishes .  249 

Swift’s  reckoning  with  his  guests .  330 

“  Swilled  mutton  ” .  2S0 

Sydney  Smith,  ltev.,  an  ill-fated  dinner 

described  by. .  287 

suppers  of. . . 332 

on  talking  at  dinner .  116 

on  the  tea-kettle . 803 

on  veal  soup .  85 

T 

Table,  habits  of  the  Germans .  229 

King  Arthur’s  round . . .  67 

Louis  XVth’s .  67 

Pliny’s,  in  the  garden  of  a  villa. ...  67 

Tables,  Chinese .  67 

Talkers,  eager .  69 

Talleyrand,  M.,  on  cookery .  52 

dinners  of .  282 

“  Tamarind  fish  ”  .  101 

Tantalus,  thirst  of. .  160 

Tapioca  puddings . 185,  1S6 

whence  obtained .  186 

Tea  considered  as  a  meal .  299 

the  beverage  of .  301 

Dr.  Johnson  on . 302 

Dr.  Kane  on .  802 

German  practice  with .  303 

the  preparation  of . 303 

the  varieties  of .  302 

Tea-biscuits  and  cakes . 303 

Tea-cake .  309 

patent .  304 

Tea-kettle,  anecdote  of. .  303 

Tea-table,  Dutch  country . 300 

Telemachus’  reception  of  Minerva .  79 

Tench .  92 

Theobroma .  14 

Thirst  of  Tantalus . 160 

Thomas  h  Beeket’s  purchase  of  eels....  39 

Thomson  on  fruits . 166,  822 

Toast,  buttered .  26 

milk .  26 

salsify .  142 

tomato .  143 

Toasts,  drinking .  165 

Highland .  165 

Tomato  sauce .  143 

toast .  148 

for  winter  use .  143 


Tomatoes,  pickled .  154 

Tongues,  to  cure . 126 

Tortilla .  24 

Tree,  the  bread-fruit .  20 

Trial  by  ordeal .  19 

“  Triall  of  Feasting  ”, .  324 

Trials  of  cooks .  48 

Trifle,  a  Southern .  196 

Tripe . 35,  218 

Trollhathe,  inscription  at .  16 

Trout .  92 

how  dressed  in  1653  .  93 

Troy,  destruction  of. .  167 

True  hospitality  illustrated .  80 

Turbots,  Cardinal  Fesch  and  the .  102 

Turkey,  boiled .  118 

roasted .  115 

Turkish  dinners .  249 

Turnspit,  anecdote  of  a . 105 

Turnspits,  dogs  as .  107 

Turnips . 137 

Turtle,  the .  88 

soup .  87 


U 


Ude,  Louis  Eustache,  on  cookery .  53 

Un  roti  sans  pareil .  130 

Urquiza,  Gen.,  hospitality  of. . 287 


Y 

Vanity  balls .  811 

Yatel,  the  French  cook .  49 

Yeal,  bewitched .  35 

broiled .  23 

cutlet .  109 

roast .  108 

soup,  Sydney  Smith  on .  85 

a  triumph  over . 108 

Vegetables .  132 

Venison,  baked  or  roasted .  106 

Venner,  Dr.  Tobias,  on  breakfast. .  4 

Vinegar .  140 

raspberry .  159 

Vitellius,  feasting  of .  238 

“  Voide,”  the .  299 

“  Voiding  ’’-knife .  66 

VollmerTm  turtle  soup .  87 

Vulgar  hospitality .  80 


W 


Waffles . 

Wager  upon  eating  veal. . . . . 

Wallis  on  Spanish  hospitality . 

Walnuts,  pickled . 

Walrus,  liver  of . 

Walton,  Izaak,  on  the  Angler’s  break' 

fast . 

receipts  for  dressing  fish  by . 

on  strawberries . 

Want  of  experienced  servants . 


23 

108 

238 

158 

265 

4 

94 

315 

72 


INDEX.  351 


Warham,  Archbishop,  banquet  for .  26T 

Washington’s  dinners  in  camp .  2S3 

dinnersat  the  presidency .  2S4 

Watermelon  preserved .  319 

Webster,  Daniel,  and  chowder .  100 

Welsh  mode  of  serving  beef-steak .  83 

Whale,  the .  92 

Wheat  bread,  to  make .  16 

pudding,  cracked .  189 

Whortleberry  wine .  158 

William  the  Conqueror,  anecdote  of....  205 

gift  to  a  cook  from .  50 

Willis  on  a  dinner  at  Lady  Blessing- 

ton’s .  74 

on  English  breakfasts .  6 

on  “lunch” .  65 

Willoughby  on  Chinese  dishes .  25T 

Wine,  currant,  (French) . 156 

currant,  black .  156 

elderberry .  15T 


fountains  of .  159 

Francesco  Bedi  on . 155 

gooseberry .  156 

jelly . 201,  202 

orange .  161 

parsnip .  157 

raspberry .  157 

whortleberry .  158 

wormwood .  161 

Woman  as  cook .  54 

Wormwood  wine .  161 


Writers  on  cookery  and  gastronomy.. .  52 
Y 


Yams .  184 

Yeast  cakes .  17 

of  the  Gauls .  17 

to  make .  16 


4 


